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Old 04-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #1
oilandblood OP
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HELP with Airhead charging

I have a 1989 bmw r100rt and I wanted to make it into more of a scrambler so I stripped it and in the process of being to lazy to wire up my acewell I rode it for 4-5 months with no instruments..(at the time I was unaware of the Gen Light) anyways I had one hell of a winter with cold starts and my bike would die all the time. I had my battery tested and it was ok which meant that it had to be something to the degree of charging. I first replaced my diodeboard and the rubber mounts with the solids, and a new rectifier. after no avail I realized that the wire in my harneess connected to the gen light had fried (most likely from not being used. I tracked it down and spliced in a new wire, and then connected my acewell with an additional light for the gen light which I now have in my headlight bucket. and It stays on even when at highway speeds.
after dicking with that for a while I decided that I would get a new rotor and stator to try to fix my charging problem. well the light still stays on all the time. and i cant get it toward high 12s with the digital tester. any ideas? I am loosing my mind with this problem and just want to ride.
Thanks in advance
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:33 PM   #2
Big Bamboo
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Did you use a regular bulb or an LED for the additional generator light? I think the bulb needs to be 3 watt for the charge circuit to work. LEDs won't work... More troubleshooting info here: http://www.pbase.com/bamboo812/bmw_boxer_electrics
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:37 PM   #3
Warin
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In order for the gen light wire to 'fry' it has to short to ground .. and that shorts the diode board and blows the diodes. Even if you put a new diode board in with that fried wire it will still short the diode board .. until you remove the shorting wire. Then you can replace the diode board and expect it to survive.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:19 PM   #4
oilandblood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warin View Post
In order for the gen light wire to 'fry' it has to short to ground .. and that shorts the diode board and blows the diodes. Even if you put a new diode board in with that fried wire it will still short the diode board .. until you remove the shorting wire. Then you can replace the diode board and expect it to survive.
that would make sense..... I am sure you must be right. what is the best way to test the diode board typically?
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:21 PM   #5
oilandblood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bamboo View Post
Did you use a regular bulb or an LED for the additional generator light? I think the bulb needs to be 3 watt for the charge circuit to work. LEDs won't work... More troubleshooting info here: http://www.pbase.com/bamboo812/bmw_boxer_electrics
Thanks for the links those seam very helpful. It was a florescent bulb from napa I had seen on a forum here as well...not exactly sure what the wattage is though.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:09 AM   #6
oilandblood OP
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Ok so I tested the diode board and it is faulty. I ordered a new one today so I am crossing my fingers that this takes care of it.
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:33 AM   #7
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilandblood View Post
Ok so I tested the diode board and it is faulty. I ordered a new one today so I am crossing my fingers that this takes care of it.
follow warin's suggestions first ... so how did you test your board?

here's detailed instructions with clear pictures on how to test diode board and a few other components involved.

scroll down to # 898
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...169507&page=60
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:30 AM   #8
Big Bamboo
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Something to consider, if your diode board mounts are rubber, now is the time to upgrade to solid mounts. Available from Motorrad Elektrik : http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:44 PM   #9
boxerboy81
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Hopefully that's where the diode board was bought too!
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