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Old 06-03-2014, 02:46 PM   #766
frasermanx
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Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
Oddometer: 58
me too

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebedee View Post
Does anybody know of a source for the 5 pin connectors (both male and female) to attach the rear wiring harness on a GS?
Or I might just cut, solder
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:23 PM   #767
Zebedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frasermanx View Post
Or I might just cut, solder
... and that might just be fine for you, but it's not what I want. Besides, soldering is hardly a dark secret ...
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:16 AM   #768
David4
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/ 2 owners....Apex Battery has the Adventure B38-6A on sale at $27.25.

http://www.apexbattery.com/adventure...batteries.html
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:07 AM   #769
Gripsteruser
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In working out why I have (had?) no headlight I got into researching relays after trying to find one at the autoparts store and failing.

This link shows the standard terminal numbering system that you find on the pins of automotive relays. The numbers give indication of what each of the prongs do-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

With this you can do more skillful troubleshooting of electrical issues.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:55 PM   #770
jackafrica
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/6 Tachometer cable; choose genuine, why.

Bought a Venhill cable from an aftermarket supplier in the UK.
Here's what I found compared to the genuine cable.

No extra protective outer cable in the right places. Inner secured only at one end, with a cheap crimped collar.

The inner cable square is poorly shaped ( not square), ends cut rough at an angle. Doesn't affect performance, though effective longevity could be questioned.

No detents on the upper outer sleeve to prevent the cable sleeve nut from falling down the cable into places you can’t reach. Poorly defined knurling on the upper threaded sleeve.

The lower sleeve was too tight AND the cutaway from the lower cable securing bolt was for a 5mm bolt rather than 6mm.
In addition, the position of the cutaway was higher than that of the original.
Good thing I have a lathe.
I turned the end down for a snug but comfortable fit, as well as reshaping the radius deeper and slightly lower.
A trial fit and all is well.

You get what you pay for.

The BMW genuine cable is twice the price and comes with the outer cover seal, effectively lowering the unit cost, provided you wanted to renew the seal of course.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:59 PM   #771
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
Bought a Venhill cable from an aftermarket supplier in the UK.
Here's what I found compared to the genuine cable.

No extra protective outer cable in the right places. Inner secured only at one end, with a cheap crimped collar.

The inner cable square is poorly shaped ( not square), ends cut rough at an angle. Doesn't affect performance, though effective longevity could be questioned.

No detents on the upper outer sleeve to prevent the cable sleeve nut from falling down the cable into places you can’t reach. Poorly defined knurling on the upper threaded sleeve.

The lower sleeve was too tight AND the cutaway from the lower cable securing bolt was for a 5mm bolt rather than 6mm.
In addition, the position of the cutaway was higher than that of the original.
Good thing I have a lathe.
I turned the end down for a snug but comfortable fit, as well as reshaping the radius deeper and slightly lower.
A trial fit and all is well.

You get what you pay for.

The BMW genuine cable is twice the price and comes with the outer cover seal, effectively lowering the unit cost, provided you wanted to renew the seal of course.
I used Venhill cables in the past. Here's what my experience was:
Snapped two clutch cables in 10 years, never snapped a BMW clutch cable
Carb synching is a b*tch with the Venhill cables. BMW cables ... hmmm... it's been 5 years since I synched my carbs I think, if not more.
They work, in a pinch, but I would never rely on the them.
(+350,000 kms on two bikes and two around the world trips.... so lots of experience with cables... :-)
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:28 PM   #772
Ben Carufel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew View Post
I would check out the TOYO brand batteries from www.beiterbattery.com
the skinny /5 style battery is a perfect fit on the BMWs. 12v20p
I bought one 2 years ago and it is awesome!!!
Especially at $40.00 plus shipping!!!!!!!!!
Holy crap, it fits and works perfect!!!!
(thx to Wirewrkr)
Bumping this old post. Is this the battery you were referencing?

http://www.beiterbattery.com/Toyo3FM4.56V4.5ah-2.aspx
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:27 PM   #773
MacEntyre
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What's in a carb kit for R75/5 Bing 32mm type 64?

BMW wants $69 for a carb gasket kit, part# 13111258051.

I saw posts in this thread talking about getting O-rings from O'Reilly's and Harbor Freight. But how do you know what to get, if you have never torn one down before?

What's in the kit?
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:32 PM   #774
Zebedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
BMW wants $69 for a carb gasket kit, part# 13111258051.

I saw posts in this thread talking about getting O-rings from O'Reilly's and Harbor Freight. But how do you know what to get, if you have never torn one down before?

What's in the kit?
You can probably go straight to Bing for the genuine parts, or motoworks/motobins in the UK is you're happy to go with pattern parts ... hth



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Old 09-10-2014, 02:43 PM   #775
MacEntyre
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Found what's in the kit here. Looks like it is probably worth it for the diaphrams. I'll check with Bing after I get my numbers. Thanks!

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Old 09-10-2014, 06:01 PM   #776
Ben Carufel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
Found what's in the kit here. Looks like it is probably worth it for the diaphrams. I'll check with Bing after I get my numbers. Thanks!

I just used this kit last week. You'll also need 4x throttle shaft screws, vacuum port fiber washers (1 per side), and you might want to replace at least the floats ($20ish/each from BMW) as well as the float needles ($8-10ish each from BMW).
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:54 PM   #777
disston
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The secret may surprise you! Bing carb parts are usually cheaper at your BMW dealer. Same parts sold by Bing, for less.

EDIT; I guess I should add that this is the case generally in the US of A. Also might add that carb parts from dealers may only be in stock at Airhead friendly dealers.
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disston screwed with this post 09-10-2014 at 07:06 PM
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:02 PM   #778
Zebedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The secret may surprise you! Bing carb parts are usually cheaper at your BMW dealer. Same parts sold by Bing, for less.
I can't comment on Bing vs dealer pricing in the US of A, but it's *MUCH* cheaper for me to have parts shipped half way round the planet from the UK, rather than consider sourcing them locally ...

[edit] ... but you live and learn ... [\edit]



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Old 09-11-2014, 09:19 AM   #779
garthg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Carufel View Post
I just used this kit last week. You'll also need 4x throttle shaft screws, vacuum port fiber washers (1 per side), and you might want to replace at least the floats ($20ish/each from BMW) as well as the float needles ($8-10ish each from BMW).
If you pull the throttle shafts, the screws have to be properly staked in place. A throttle screw sucked into the engine can destroy the engine.

Personally, I'd leave the throttle shafts alone. I've had good experience just rebuilding the carb with the kit shown, minus the diaphragms. The diaphragms alone are about half the cost of the kit. If the old ones don't have any tears or rips, they should still be usable.
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Old 09-11-2014, 02:14 PM   #780
MacEntyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Carufel View Post
...you might want to replace at least the floats ...as well as the float needles...
I changed my mind and bought the full rebuild kit and the rebuild manual from Bing. Figured I don't want to do this again for many years!

Only alcohol free fuel for my airhead from now on!
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