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Old 03-12-2007, 04:21 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonz
The master baiter!!! Yep, that's Gaspipe.

Sorry, I couldn't resist the cheap shot
+1

Bruce, you are a raconteur of the first order.
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:04 AM   #227
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Day 10: To the Sea of Cortez in Search of Gypsyrider...

Teeds....raconteur - I used to have a buddy with that on a business card

As we retraced our steps several hundred feet up an impossibly sandy hillclimb, I figured if our motors were going to give up, this hill would be where it'd happen. Afterall, it's warm out - we're in the tropics now - - and sand plus gravity bogs you down anyway.

At the top of the grade, we were rewarded with a delightful trail the rode along the ridgeline for miles. BigDog got some great video of us swooping along that trail. Eventually, the Sea of Cortez came into view, and we began a rapid decent to sea level.



As we neared the flats, we plopped out on a sand wash road near Garambullo. Deep sand.



Checking the GPS, I saw were just south of Los Frailes. Having never been there, I figured maybe we could find some internet access and get a PM out to Gypsyrider and an email to Gypsywife to start the process of homing in on him.

Los Frailes is a beautiful cove full of gringos, but not much more. Internet? Hardly



We were planning to head up the coast towards Los Barriles, and I hoped we'd find internet access somewhere along the way.



The next little village we entered was Cabo Pulmo - pretty much right on the Tropic of Cancer, and purported gateway to the Tropics (only not many people know about it). BigDog and I pulled into a cafe for something to eat, since it was early afternoon.

As we sat there, I swigging a Corona, in walks Adios Pantalones. I couldn't believe it. we chatted for a bit and had some laughs, and made some plans to cross paths later that evening up in Los Barriles for a beer or three and tell some more tales of travel.



No internet in Cabo Pulmo, but I'd hoped I could find something in Los Barriles, and BigDog and I set off north. Then the road turned to pavement, and this clearly would not do, so we turned off the paved road and made our way north to La Ribera on sand roads.



Gas was becoming critical for BigDog, and we knew we could get some in Los Barriles. So we stayed on the sand road heading to Buena Vista....

[more later]
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:02 AM   #228
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As we pulled into Buena Vista, we jumped onto a short stretch of pavamiento, and headed north a mile or two to Los Barriles. I stopped at the turnoff as the sun was setting over the mountains.



Adios Pantalones told me of a motel that's pretty cool, and right on the beach, so I figured we spend a few Yanqui dolares and get a nice room.

Now wait a minute. Where the hell is BigDog? I turned around and went back to pook for him at the last place I saw him - but we passed on the highway. I turned again and founf out he'd run out of gas - but he still had reserve.

We rode into the motel Adios Panatalones told me about - behind the driving range, and although the place looked somewhat empty, the mujere told me that they were full. Perhaps my less than impeccable appearance may have influenced her.

We wandered around for a bit, and I finally negotiated my way into a beachside room at Martin Verdugo's place, overlooking the Bahia las Palmas.





As BigDog unpacked, I got myself a Pacifico and wandered out to the Oficina to inquire about internet access. The lady told me where I could find it, but it was closed for the evening, and would reopen in the morning. OK. Any public phones? Sure. I had 1 minute left on my card. I called home to tell my wife to get on ADVRider and check my PM's - but got the answering machine. My minute ran out before I could leave a message. This has got to be some sort of friggin' contest....
Por Favor, tengo una pregunta?
Si?
Donde que vende las tarjetas de telephono publico?
Aqui, per no hay nada. A la Manana.
Fantastico. Hasta a la manana.
Andale.


OK - I can call home and leave a message, and get some internet access in the morning. I am really concerned about Gypsyrider at this point, and hope he's sitting in some 5 star motel getting a message. But he could be in a ditch, with the buzzards already pecking at the soft bits....

I walked back to the room, out to the Palapa de Cervezas, and got another beer. I dropped into chair to sit back and watch the Bahia as the sun faded .



I got up and retrieved the last of the cacahuates and the beef jerky, as BigDog came down with his tortillas to sit next to me to watch the sky fade from blue to indigo and have some dinner.



Any news on Gypsyrider?
Nope.
Internet?
In the morning.
Gotcha. Let's eat.

And we ate the last of the jerky, the tortillas and the cacahuates as the sun completely gave up and the night sky took over.
You think he's OK?
Yeah, I do.

We sat there for a couple hours, I drinking a few more Pacificos, and we decided to discuss altering tomorrow's ride depending on what we can find out about the whereabouts of Gypsyrider.

Tale of the tape for Day 10: ~155 miles (including some looking for our buddy miles).


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Old 03-12-2007, 10:38 AM   #229
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Tahlequah II

Tahlequah II

It was just me and the GasPipe

Southwest of Todos Santos I was taken back with the beauty of the mountains we were about to ride over. Playing tag with GasPipe on the ridgeline was such a hoot. There was little dust and I enjoyed running close as we rode a pretty good clip down the road.


As Bruce mentioned the navigation was very tricky----me and GasPipe have both developed such a good sense of where to go by looking at an analyzing the terrain and watching road conditions------as a road with no tracks probably dead ends or is impassable.

We got some help from a Rancher but he told us to take the left at the wye. He should of said the 2nd wye---as we went down a cowtrail with the deepest of sand and we both got wore out in no longer than 5 minutes of this stuff--and we were going down hill. We knew we were on the wrong road and now we had to back up. We made it and found the next left at the next wye.

Sunset in Los Barriles


I did run into this guy again----seems I ran into him every night

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Old 03-12-2007, 10:51 AM   #230
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Tire In Lapaz

Tires in Lapaz--there here !!!!


We carried the tires to a empty lot of dirt and found some sutiable bike stands.
30 mintures later we blew out of the big city of LaPaz and tried to put some distance between us and it. There were 3 rear tires----one was John Marks and we didn't have a clue where he was. We left his tire at the Honda shop next door and told them if somebody didn't pick it up in a few days that they could sell it

Spooing the tires on was a piece of cake as the warm sun had our old and new tires warmed up pretty good--------a warm tire is 3 times easier to spoon than a cold one.
As much as we wanted to get out of Lapaz-----at the edge of town I pulled into this taco stand and GasPipe followed-----we were starving and of course ----------THIRSTY.


I ordered a coke and tacos------set out a couple of Pacificos

And this guy shows up again !!!!

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Old 03-12-2007, 11:07 AM   #231
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We headed almost straight West for the Pacific ocean towards La Aguja.



It was some more high speed running down many sand roads.

We finally came to this little village where I was taken aback
by this beautiful stained glass window----or was it ???

Look close--it's just a frame of steel and the blue
sky is just showing thru it. How clever.

A couple of young girls came out and we had a nice
chat with them and we told them how beatiful the church was.




We reached the Pacifice ocean and rode down a road that was very deep sand.
Ocassionally we would take a little side road up to the beach.




I was leading and was running hard.
I had to keep the Husky going hard in at least 3rd gear to keep on top of the deep sand.
This snuck up on me but I got my bike stopped.
We had to find another way--and did.



Were at our secluded beach camp here.
We spent 2 hours playing on the beach and having fun.
Nobody was within miles of us.
Here's some ancient Indian Sand carvings !!!


I'll shut up---while you enjoy the sounds of the water and sunset.



This night camping was to be the best time of the whole trip--we spent hours gazing at the sea---wading in it---riding in it--gazing at the sunset--the fishing boats----the empty beach--gathering firewood---watching the fire--talking about things--letting the chupacobra monster sneak up on us and catching us off guard--and scaring the bajeejus out of us.

Good Friends
Living the Good Life Of Baja



I will now let GasPipe catch up---as I do not want to deprive him of the honor of posting the pictures he took here at the beach--the sunset pictures he took here simply outclass any of the pictures he has ever took---I warned you !!!
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:43 AM   #232
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Day 11: Back To La Paz....

As usual, we were up before the Sun. I opened up the door, and this was the view while laying in bed.



We packed up our stuff, and wandered into the little cafe on the roof - we spied the lady going up the steps and had just opened up the place. We had coffee and pancakes for breakfast as we watched the sun rise. Rather inspiring view, and the pancakes were pretty good.



I learned that the internet access several spoke of required you to have your own laptop. And a couple other places would allow you to use their office access for a fee, but we'd have to wait until 9 or 10 to access it. BigDog and I decided we could be in LaPaz by then, where we KNEW there was internet and could get some messaging started. And hopefully find our tires. And Gypsyrider.

So we decided that rather than wander our way up the peninsula above La Paz and explore the shores of el Canal Maritimo de San Lorenzo, we'd head into La Paz and handle business.

An hour and a half later, I was in La Paz waiting for internet. And waiting. Not only did I need to get some messaging going to try to locate Gypsyrider, but I also had a PM in my file on ADVrider that had the address of where Gerardo sent the tires. After an hour of waiting for either of the two internet cafes to come on line - both were out because some cable was cut or something to that effect - BigDog reminded me that I had the tracking # - I showed it to himn a few days ago.

It then occurred to me that I'd just find the DHL office and inquire. I went into a Pemex and gassed up with Rojo, and asked the attendent if he knew where a DHL office was. Helooked at me as if I were retarded, and he pointed to a building standing above the rest of the buildings, perhaps a mile away, with a large yellow DHL sign on it. I rode over there and went in. I only wanted to get two tires, and have the third stay at DHL, as I knew Gypsyrider would also easily find DHL (assuming he was alive :eek7 ). The clerk was more than happy to hold the third tire, but I had to pay freight to ship it to myself - another $20US. Crazy.

I took 50lbs of tires across the street one handed, where we'd found an abandoned lot to change them in.



I made quick work of the tire swap, finding a perfect block to prop up the sled, and already warmed rubber mae it easy. In less than a half hour, we were both aired up and ready.





We went down the street to another Pemex, where BigDog gassed up. There's no way I can haul this spare tire with the rack I have in the terrain that we're going into. It was here I had an epiphony. I recalled the Honda Shop that Gypsyrider pointed out a couple days earlier, and rode over there while BigDog offered to wait on the main drag in case Gypsyrider came on through. He had decided to stick with me and help me find Gypsyrider, and for that I was glad.



I spoke to Luis, the shop's owner, and explained the situation, and he was most helpful - even though we *could* have bought tires from him - if we'd known he was there. The car dealership across the street had internet, and I wandered over and asked if I could send an email. They said sure, but it's down right now and if I wished to wait, no problemo. Thanks, but no thanks. I left another note for Gypsyrider, along with his tire, with Luis at the shop. I told him if no one claimed the tire in a week, to sell it and keep the pesos for his help. I bought a couple liters of synthetic oil as my shifting on the LC4 was getting clunky again, and I went back to fetch BigDog at the gas station. Before I left, Luis adorned my LC4 with a fresh decal.

Gypsyrider will for sure find the tire here.



We'd been in LaPaz for four hours by now, and there was NO WAY I'd stay in this town - too many people and too much going on. We headed west out of town looking for more internet access, and found none. I figured that Gypsyrider would return to La Paz for his tire and would go into the Honda shop by default. There he'd find my note of where we were headed, his new tire, and we'd hook up somewhere up the road.

Seemed logical.

We rode a few miles up Mexico 1, and turned off into the dirt. I'd try the internet thing again when we reached Cd. Constitucion tonight. My worrying was really preoccupying me now.

We turned off towards Reforma Agraria and headed back to the Pacific Ocean.



My bike was beginning to look like some sort of hobo wagon with all the crap hanging off it - mostly laundry still drying - and getting filthy all over again. Overlooking Ley Federal Agria Uno.



There wasn't a soul stirring in this town. It was eerie, and we rode through.

[more later]
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:50 AM   #233
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You boys are class-acts and class-report writers of the highest degree.
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:59 AM   #234
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Day 11: The Pacific Coast...

We headed north from Agria Uno on excellent sand roads through beautiful cactus forests.



We stopped to take a look at this little church at Conquista Agraria, and chatted with the kids for a bit.



All they wanted was a wheelie, and I gave 'em a beauty. We then turned west here towards the Ocean and Punta Marquez, where there was alleged to be a lighthouse.

I felt the need to kill a few minutes here at Punta Marquez, and just watched the surf for a bit, wondering if Gypsyrider was picking up his tire yet, and whether he was making a run to Constitucion or Insurgentes to find us....



The road was onviously part of the race course through here. Like sand whoops do ya?



The sun was sinking low in the sky, and the silt beds and sand whoops conspired to drag our speed down. There was NO WAY we'd make Constitucion even by 2100, as it was over 80 miles of sand hell away. So we started to look for a suitable campsite to weather the evening.

We wallowed down a deserted sandy singletrack to a lonely beach.



I believe this spot will do just fine.

[more in a bit]
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Old 03-12-2007, 12:53 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k7
You boys are class-acts and class-report writers of the highest degree.


HiYa K7!!! And thanks buddy!

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Old 03-12-2007, 01:24 PM   #236
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Cabo Pulmo

Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
We were planning to head up the coast towards Los Barriles, and I hoped we'd find internet access somewhere along the way.

The next little village we entered was Cabo Pulmo - pretty much right on the Tropic of Cancer, and purported gateway to the Tropics (only not many people know about it). BigDog and I pulled into a cafe for something to eat, since it was early afternoon.

As we sat there, I swigging a Corona, in walks Adios Pantalones. I couldn't believe it. we chatted for a bit and had some laughs, and made some plans to cross paths later that evening up in Los Barriles for a beer or three and tell some more tales of travel.



No internet in Cabo Pulmo, but I'd hoped I could find something in Los Barriles, and BigDog and I set off north. Then the road turned to pavement, and this clearly would not do, so we turned off the paved road and made our way north to La Ribera on sand roads.

Gas was becoming critical for BigDog,

[more later]
You guys are both blind and nuts.

You must have stopped at the Cabo Pulmo Resort. 50 meters up the road is Pepe's Internet Cafe operated by Cabo Pulmo's newest resident, Charla. Across from that is the Caballero and behind that is my home, Nancy's. And we don't serve Corona's.

By taking the sand box bypass to La Ribera, you also blew by two internet cafe's, the one pay phone which sells cards, and the Pemex on the paved highway.

Sheeeeesh, I bet you hit the dead end into town too

Oh yea, that sand wash south of Los Frailes is the main road to Mira Flores.

Nice trip report. If you would slow down a little, you might not miss so much.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:38 PM   #237
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Day 11: Diggin' In For the Night....

Looking back from my vantage point at the edge of the surf, that hollow will be perfect to shield us from the night wind and provide a calm place to rest our dirty heads.

As long as there isn't any freak tidal surge this evening.



It's been windy all day, but warm. We collected all the driftwood along the beach and piled it up for later on. I decided to perform an "oil freshening" on the LC4 after finding the ideal container to hold the used oil in, as well as a length of sisal rope. More on that process later.

BigDog must not get to the beach much. He was like a 5 year old, throwing down his stuff and running to the water's edge, dropping to all fours and playing in the sand. Poor ol' fella....



I set to work on my "oil freshening" exercise, and before long (and after only a mild stream of the foulest words probably to ever be chanted on this beach), I was done.



After any oil change, errr, freshening, it'd be taboo to not run the bike for a bit. Not to one to break a sound tradition, I ripped up and down the beach at 80+ MPH for about 20 minutes to satisfy myself that the oil freshening exercise was properly done and the new lubricand adequately mixed with the old throughout the motor. I vow to never grow up.



Now I know what BigDog was doing in the sand earlier, as I sped past over and over and got a good look.



As the sun began to set, splashing the clouds with a bit of color, BigDog continued to frolic in the gentle surf of low tide. It was really rather relaxing watching him enjoy himself as the waves lapped at his ankles.





This is a unique time of day - when the sun illuminates the high cirrus clouds with the reddish light diffused through the lense of the atmosphere, yet the cumulus clouds create a dark silhouette against the colors. Rather beautiful.



BigDog, finally satiating his inner child and aquatic desires, wanders back to camp.



We both set up camp, and I begin to prepare the fire. Using the vessel I found on the beach now filled with a quart of used motor oil, I soaked the length of sisal rope in the oil, and set it as a wick. I loaded the moist driftwood around the vessel and light the wick using a butane lighter (waterproof matches are for Boy Scouts). Within minutes, we have a steady, albeit a tad smoky, flame drying the driftwood and creating a great BTU source. The oil burns away quickly, leaving behind a nice bed of wood coals to ignite the new wood.



We shared a dinner consisting of a package of cookies and some water, and sat around the fire - wondering where Gypsyrider was, along with the Chupacabra, Bigfoot, Mechudo, the Snallygaster, Amelia Erhardt and the Jersey Devil were, this evening.

Behold the simple bedroll of the Baja explorer...



I use my jacket as a pad, and my Camelback as a pillow. I crawled into my sleeping bag after stoking the fire one last time. I laid awake for quite a while, listening to the steady metronomic sound of the surf, and gazed at the stars until I drifted off.

Tale of the tape for Day 11: ~150 miles

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Old 03-12-2007, 01:52 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachBusker
You must have stopped at the Cabo Pulmo Resort.
Nope - at the Caballero. I was told there that Pepe's was a dive shop.

Quote:
By taking the sand box bypass to La Ribera, you also blew by two internet cafe's, the one pay phone which sells cards, and the Pemex on the paved highway.
I work hard to avoid the highway. The dirt bypass is the only way to travel for me.

Quote:
Oh yea, that sand wash south of Los Frailes is the main road to Mira Flores.
And if you drive up it three or four miles, there's a trail that peels off to the south which isn't the main road to Miraflores, but would get you there eventually.

Thanks for reading. I think.

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In fact, I'm feeling a bit silly now and I think I'll just stop for a while.
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:03 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
We both set up camp, and I begin to prepare the fire. Using the vessel I found on the beach now filled with a quart of motor oil, soak the length of sisal rope in the oil, and set it as a wick. I load the moist driftwood around the vessel and light the wick using a butane lighter (waterproof matches are for Boy Scouts). Within minutes, we have a steady, albeit a tad smoky, flame drying the driftwood and creating a great BTU source. The oil burns away quickly, leaving behind a nice bed of wood coals to ignite the new wood.


This is one hell of a salty moto-camping trick. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:17 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
And if you drive up it three or four miles, there's a trail that peels off to the south which isn't the main road to Miraflores, but would get you there eventually.

Thanks for reading. I think.
Thank You for the map, I am going to use it for my day trip report to Todo Santos. The directions I received were to go five miles up the wash and stay left

Sorry I missed you guys, my new 05 Husky would have looked great next to BigDog's. But,I had this stupid urge to pre-run the Baja 250:

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