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Old 03-13-2007, 03:35 PM   #256
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Outstanding pics and report!! Thanks for the great pics and the continued updates
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:37 PM   #257
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Baja Mud

OK--timeout for a good laugh

Got home from Baja---got the KLR out--found an old dirt road---found a creek---hey lookeeeee----some Baja sand on this side---stand back boys while I show you how to ride in the sand----I've rode in Baja----I know all about sand !!!!

Well--I got thru the sand--but the old Southern, Illinois mud on the other side sunk my KLR over the axles. It took 3 of us to drag it back into the creek so I could ride the sand back up. Got my buddies all wet and muddy first thing. They would have been pissed if they hadn't been laughing so hard.


OK Back to Baja
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:44 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Boy
Outstanding pics and report!! Thanks for the great pics and the continued updates
Thanks Mr. Gadget-------you don't have to thank us--wait till you get the bill
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:13 PM   #259
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You guys have truly outdone yourselves again.

I'm glad you found Gypsy, though maybe you should've dragged it out a little more or fabricated something about the Chupacabra, hidden hatches or polar bears...
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:47 PM   #260
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Day 12: Rocks? We Don't See No Steeenkin Rocks...

I've heard a good many folks complain about Baja. Too dirty. Too expensive. Food is lousy. Corruption. Whatever.

Most folks never really consider the situation. Very precious little is produced or manufactured along the length of Baja, but commodities still need to be provided and distributed to the points of consumption. Aside from a refinery I know of near Mexicali, no fuel is produced in Baja - it comes from the mainland. Most produce - comes from the USA or the mainland. Auto parts, clothing, nails, paint, tires, steel, cement, etc. All from elsewhere. If you like salt, they have that. Lots of that.

Toss into that equation the fact that the USA is next door, and Baja is fairly accessible by we comparatively rich Gringos. Complicate it with import taxes and duties in conjunction with a relatively free market, and you quickly emulate USA prices where the Gringos go.

Seems pretty simple.

Take Baja for what it is, not for what it is not. It's an excellent playground full of fantastic scenery, wonderful people, great food, and reasonable costs. I dig it. But y'all already knew that.

A couple klicks up the hill out of Comondu on the San Isidro road, we took the right turn towards Rancho Hilario. That's the road the lady warned us about. Looks pretty tidy to me so far.



Then we passed a good sized rancho, and the road got a bit smaller and a tad less groomed pretty quickly. I guess they don't come this way as much as they do to Comondu....



The lady told us it's take 4 or 5 hours to go this way, and I could see why. In a pickup, it easily take that kind of time. But we're on motos, and we're not completely without skills. Not entirely, anyway.



There wasn't a single soul out here, which is exactly the way I like it. No jets, no powerlines, no billboards, no traffic, no streetlights. Nunca. Nada. Someone said there'd be rocks out here. I don't see no steenkeen rocks....



I'd been cursing the suspension on my LC4e since we left Mexicali - it was terribly softly sprung for me, and it really caused me to have to lope along in a lot of the terrain we rode because of excessively soft springs. But today, I was digging the plush woods-rider ride of the WP Extreme forks and the rear shock. Smooooove as a gravy sammich.



The BigDog and I were so jazzed up about riding that we forgot about lunch altogether (except for that ice cream BigDog ate while I was bickering with the Pemex con-artist over my change in Cd. Constitucion). We stopped for a five minute breather next to a huge saguaro, and shared a pack of cookies we got back at Ciento Veinteocho this morning. Silent and peaceful. All you could here was the crunch of the cookies....



BigDog asked of I saw that rock on the road back a ways. Rock? No senor, I deeeent seee no steeenkeeeen rock...... ... I love this terrain.

The shadows were again getting quite long, and we had made relatively slow progress since leaving Comondu. These tracks didn't make for 45MPH average speeds, and we'd been riding a long day by now. Fatigue was definitely entering the equation.



We stopped in a small rancho, as I saw three caballeros in white shirts, jeans and wearing straw cowboy hats standing near an adobe hut, watching us. Since they saw us, I waved, and wanted to say hello - and ask a question or two.

As I pulled up, I noticed the long knives in their belts and in their boot holsters.

Hmmm, have I made an error in judgement? My throat got a bit dry. I put away the camera.....and left the ignition on and my finger on the magic button......

[more in a bit]
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:49 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad21
You guys have truly outdone yourselves again.

I'm glad you found Gypsy, though maybe you should've dragged it out a little more or fabricated something about the Chupacabra, hidden hatches or polar bears...
B21 - Thanks for the compliment.

I really didn't want to make light of the Gyspyrider situation. I was really worried about his well being at that point, and I was HUGELY relieved when I realized he was OK.
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:50 PM   #262
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That's damned near lose a boot depth mud.

And yes, I have lost a boot in the mud before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogAdventures.com
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:30 PM   #263
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Day 12: Are You tired? I'm Getting Tired...

The caballeros were friendly enough, but positively wary of us. I didn't get a good feeling about being there, in fact, I got the impression that they were less than thrilled to see us. We exchanged pleasantries and they answered my question - you're two hours from Rosarito.
Muchas gracias y adios amigos.
Forty odd miles of rocks, after a couple hundred miles of asphalt and gravel, conspired to wear us down. Once again, I was out of water - and I knew BigDog was housing his camera rig in his backpack, and was carrying half his usual water, so I decided to just live with it. Being dehydrated makes it hard to concentrate on the task at hand, but we had already begun to descend, and the road started to get much easier.

Mexico 1 was only 15 miles away.



This area has had the ever-loving crap beaten out of it by Hurricane John last November. BigDog paused to add his contribution to the wash, in stark contrast to what Mother Nature contributed to the wash during the storm. The water in this wash had to have been at leats eight feet deep, and moving at a good clip - maybe 15mph or more, to uproot all that vegetation.



We ripped up the dirt road to Rosarito just as the sun was setting behind the mountains.



We stopped here for a minute to put on our jackets, and stow our sunglasses. Mexico 1 to Mulege.

Hey Mark, you got enough gas to get there?

Yep, I think so.

We pulled out north onto Mexico 1, and wound our way north along Bahia Concepcion as twilight embraced us.

[more later]
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:02 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
B21 - Thanks for the compliment.

I really didn't want to make light of the Gyspyrider situation. I was really worried about his well being at that point, and I was HUGELY relieved when I realized he was OK.
I could only imagine.

I hate it when my riding buddies disappear for 5 minutes!
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:35 PM   #265
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Super report guys ! Look forward to checking in for the updates every morning ! Where is the next adventure going ?
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:48 PM   #266
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Day 12: The Last Stretch....

As evening settled in, the desert air cooled rapidly, and the winds reversed direction.

We rolled into Mulege well after dark, and went to see Xavier at Las Casitas to see if he had a room available. He recognized me from years past, and we chatted a bit. He set us up in a room in the back, and opened the gate into the courtyard for the bikes.



Before we even unpacked, I went and checked email and PM's at one of the two internet cafes in town. Funny - Gypsyrider had not logged in since my earlier message alerting him to where his tire was. I started to worry again.

I spent $10 calling home at the internet place since no one had phonecards for sale, and found my wife had been in a total panic the past few days. Gypsyrider called my house a couple days earlier, and I hadn't called since San Ignacio on day 4 or so. Oops. She figure *I* was balled up (which had become the norm for Baja) and I was in traction in some hospital, or finally taking the big dirt nap.

I gave her the details in case he called again, and told her I'd check email again in the morning. Walking back to get BigDog and dinner, I had an equipment failure. A blowout.



Thank doG for zipties. All fixed.

BigDog and I had an excellent dinner at Las Casitas. We wandered back to the plaza and had a beer or two in the square watching the people and listening to the band until they unplugged and went home.

Good times today.

Tale of the tape for day 12: About 270 miles.



[more tomorrow]
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:19 PM   #267
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Day 13: Magdalena or Pavement.....

We were up at the required time - before dawn, packed up, and went up the cafe for breakfast. The cook was late (a recurring theme I think) and we had coffee while we waited.

The decision was to go west and then north through Magdalena, or west back out to La Ballena (and then north via Laguna San Ignacio) on a road we'd already traveled. Or maybe explore something new.

New got the vote. The cook finally showed up after we'd already defiled an AAA map for sale on the rack (sorry), and we had French toast (in Baja> Are we nuts? YES) and tocino. I'd had so many eggs the last two weeks that I felt like I was beginning to grow feathers, so I needed an alternative. An alternative that eggs in it, but were miraculously hidden under the camouflage of syrup.



I hit the internet cafe and still saw no response to my messages to Gypsyrider from yesterday in Constitucion. Friggin' odd.

We packed up, got gas, and headed north on Mexico 1. I am not enjoying myself on Mexico 1, and before long we are stopped at one of the many road projects that the Mexican gobierno started to shore up the millions of washes that destroyed the main roads in the last hurricane. Since we had a few minutes and our motors were dead, I chatted with the flagman about the roads to the west in the mountains.

The lad didn't know much, but more than I did. We trekked north to the prison south of Santa Rosalia, and took the road west out to Santa Agueda.



The hope was that the road went either out close to San Ignacio via Rancho Candelaria, or out to Mexico 1 near Las Virgenes. The maps showed that it went through to Las Virgenes, but hey, you never know until you try. Either way, we score a cool route off the pavement, and around Santa Rosalia.



The road was in great shape, wide and graded, so I figured we scored. We even passed a car on the road as we headed west. Always a good sign.



About 20 miles up the road, we reached the sprawling metropolis of Santa Agueda. Unlike other Mexican towns, here there were framed houses - not the typical adobe or concrete block homes you come to expect. They imported wood here at some point in the past.

The church (block construction )



I couldn't find the road out of town to the north - the one that purported to go to Las Virgenes on MX1. Frustrated, I rode up to a wood framed house with an older gentleman sitting on the front porch. He and I chatted about things, the town's history, weather, and I finally asked how cme there were houses here made of wood. He said they were built by the French a hundred years ago when the El Rosario mines were pumping out copper and manganese.

But why up here? I asked....

La Agueda was founded for three reasons: 1) beef production, 2) homes for the affluent, and 3) to build the aqueduct to provide water to Santa Rosalia.

Amazing what you find out when you take the time to inquire. I told the gentleman I enjoyed my talk and appreciated the time. I also asked if there were any roads out of here aside from the road in.

No. Not unless you are on foot. Or on a horse. And there are pictographs up there if you want to see them.

I thanked the man, and we rode down to the river wash. We rode down along the wash, and a couple ranch hands were stringing new barbed wire. I asked them if the road went through and they laughed. It was on the map, but they never built it. Gracias, y adios amigo.

Well, we're on a dead end. Nuts.



If you look close, you can see the old aqueduct arches on either end of the ridgeline above Santa Agueda.



We rode back out to MX1 at the prison.



And back onto that dreadful pavement, and through Santa Rosalia - a town with a very colourful history....

[more later]
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:35 PM   #268
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Magdalena (garlic) is like a loop road from 1 to the Ice House Rd....IIRC.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:10 PM   #269
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Damn, damn, damn. Here it is, 1 o:clock in the AM in western North Carolina, and I'm reading Blowpipe's damn stories again. Damn.

Y'all blow...






...again.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:28 PM   #270
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And back onto that dreadful pavement, and through El Rosario - a town with a very colourful history....
[more later][/quote]


GP,
Great report, as usual....thanks for the pics of Commandu area....that's a section we passed up in January (for no specific reason, other than Bajarideitis.. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199166 )....

I know you know your way around, but you are misnamimg Santa Rosalia as El Rosario today.......there seem to be so many Santa Rosalia's, El Rosallilittas, Santa El Rosalililitta, el Santo Rosariorosallilittas......

As you have said, we make these promises to ourselves that "this will be the last Baja ride for a few years, and then begin planning the next one within a week of being back home.....

Rider separations seem to follow other group dynamics, as you indicated subtly .....its always a bummer when Plan A, B, and C don't work out....


Looking forward to more
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