Ask your WELDING questions here.

[JimVonBaden]

You need a more knowledgable welder. The BMW pipe is definitely stainless. I am at my limit here though. Surely someone else will chime in.

Jim

[kellyk7]

Ok I may have taken my hack saw to the pipe just a bit too quick

It appears that the Suzuki mid pipe is actually made of Titanium

if the BMW piece is stainless it would be a 300 alloy due to no magnetic

[Pablo83]

Originally Posted by kellyk7

Ok I may have taken my hack saw to the pipe just a bit too quick

It appears that the Suzuki mid pipe is actually made of Titanium

if the BMW piece is stainless it would be a 300 alloy due to no magnetic

If you left enough room you could have a muffler shop flare the mid pipe and slip the muffer pipe into it.

[kellyk7]

in a way that was my original plan but the mid pipe had a crazy little bend that was just not doable

I have found a source for 3 inch wide 304 stainless .25 thick strap they sell by the foot for about 14.00 so i can make a flange of stainless and have it welded to the pipe

should be easy and work pretty clean

[fxstbiluigi]

Originally Posted by kellyk7

in a way that was my original plan but the mid pipe had a crazy little bend that was just not doable

I have found a source for 3 inch wide 304 stainless .25 thick strap they sell by the foot for about 14.00 so i can make a flange of stainless and have it welded to the pipe

should be easy and work pretty clean

304 stainless isn't a real good choice for applications envolving much heat.

[kellyk7]

this is new ground to me, I talked to the welder and stainless dealer and they recommend 304 or 316 for weld-ability 316 is commonly used for salt resistance 303 is not weldable


Any info posted will be considered

[fxstbiluigi]

Originally Posted by kellyk7

this is new ground to me, I talked to the welder and stainless dealer and they recommend 304 or 316 for weld-ability 316 is commonly used for salt resistance 303 is not weldable


Any info posted will be considered

my first choice for a flange would be 309.
#2 would be 409/409s
#3 would be 316/316l
ps: I dont know how close you are to Anniston, al. but the ultimate heat resistant S.S. is R.A. (rolled alloys) 330.
It is used in the incenerator.
It is really spendy, but if you could get some that has been sold to a salvage yard......All they will know is "they have some stainless" that came from the incenerator.

[WIsixfitty]

I've been using 304 for exhaust apps for the last 15 years w/o any problems. Flanges, tubes and brackets, you name it. It's avaialble anywhere and is more than suited for the task at hand.

If your looking for the best heat resistance use Inconel. It's spendy and you need to use inconel filler rod (fillow wod) too.




.25" strapping is too thick for a flange tube. Just find some of similar wall thickness and roll/weld that.

[kellyk7]

Originally Posted by WIsixfitty

.25" strapping is too thick for a flange tube. Just find some of similar wall thickness and roll/weld that.

Ok you lost me on the flange The GSXR midpipe has a 3" x 3.5" flat mount plate that has a 2" hole in center and 4 holes for bolts that the muffler mount bolts to

The titanium flange is .25 thick

[WIsixfitty]

don' follow me I'm lost too.

maybe I'm the one confused. flange tube vs flange plate may be the difference. red x y0.

Originally Posted by kellyk7

Ok you lost me on the flange The GSXR midpipe has a 3" x 3.5" flat mount plate that has a 2" hole in center and 4 holes for bolts that the muffler mount bolts to

The titanium flange is .25 thick

[nuggets]

I am building a bracket to hold the headlight and intstrument cluster on my project bike. I would like to tack the bracket parts together while the bracket is on the bike to make sure everything lines up correctly.

I am using an AC stick welder to do it. If I disconnect the battery, can I do this without harming the bikes electrical system?



I have included a picture of the bracket in progress. I would just like to make a couple of tacks on each side where my hand is holding the piece, then to finish welding the parts.

[trailer Rails]

Your electrical system will be fine but you should tack it somewhere away from the bike and then put it back up and bend it to fit. The sparks from welding might burn into the chrome on the forks tubes or burn through the insulation on the wiring.

[Pablo83]

I weld on partially assembled bikes frequently. Protect your fork tubes, (and anything else that could be damaged by sparks) with a fire blanket. Unplug your CDI too. Clamp your ground as close to your work as possible to keep the current going through as few joints as possible; you really don't want current to be flowing through any bearing (like the head stock).

[nuggets]

Originally Posted by pablo83

I weld on partially assembled bikes frequently. Protect your fork tubes, (and anything else that could be damaged by sparks) with a fire blanket. Unplug your CDI too. Clamp your ground as close to your work as possible to keep the current going through as few joints as possible; you really don't want current to be flowing through any bearing (like the head stock).

I went ahead and marked the parts, then tacked them off the bike. When I test fit them, everything was spot on. I am still working on the part, and will post a pic when done.

[sillbeer]

Hey,

Looking to buy a mig welder. On the local classifieds there is a Lincoln Power Mig 200 for $1000. Anyone have experience with this unit? I'm a welding noob. A few years ago I picked up a big Miller Tig unit and it was out of my league. I'm looking for something I can use in the garage and hopefully not grow out of. I would like to mess around with aluminum and steel. Will this unit do it?

Thanks,

-Destin