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Old 03-29-2011, 06:29 PM   #1906
Poolside
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domains View Post

I'm just a hobbie welder of a few years( used to get other people to weld my stuff)... My first welder was a Lincoln 120v mig that avertized it could weld 1/4 steel :) has a hard time doing 1/8.

I paved my driveway and the wire under it going to garage is only a 12 grade so I can only get a 120 welder.
You can still do it. You ran a neutral wire under the slab didn't ya? Use the neutral wire for the other hot line of the 220V. You know, a 220V receptacle is hot, hot, and ground. Using the white for hot isn't code, but it isn't like the electricity knows the difference.



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Old 03-30-2011, 01:03 AM   #1907
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Originally Posted by 802mike View Post
Is cadmium still used in tools and hardware such as car components?

Thanks
mike
I was under the impression cadmium was rare due to the toxins involved in its application.
Passivate coatings seem to be used on car components but are not as durable.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:34 AM   #1908
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Originally Posted by 802mike View Post

Is cadmium still used in tools and hardware such as car components?
The common stuff for years now is a zinc plate plus yellow chromate, almost as durable as cadmium plate plus yellow chromate. Chromate top plate is available in a few colors, yellow which looks like cadmium w/yellow chromate, blue which is found on fasteners at the hardware store, red, and black.

And since this is a welding thread, it's ok to weld over zinc chromate without grinding it off first. It turns to an white oxide powder at temperatures far below weld temps, and mixes into the puddle just fine. There are folks who say that welding it is dangerous and the plated should be ground off first, but the dust from grinding is more of a potential irritant.


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Old 03-30-2011, 09:16 AM   #1909
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Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
You can still do it. You ran a neutral wire under the slab didn't ya? Use the neutral wire for the other hot line of the 220V. You know, a 220V receptacle is hot, hot, and ground. Using the white for hot isn't code, but it isn't like the electricity knows the difference.
My electrician said the same thing. I'm psyched.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:51 AM   #1910
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Bluhduh What am I doing wrong? (stick welding) My welds SUCK

I'm new to welding, but have been "practicing" for a while. The problem is, I NEVER seem to get a weld that's strong. ?? I am always able to break the two pieces of metal apart again, by hand.

I have a cheapo Chicago Electric (utility arc 1400), DC, 110v input stick welder. I'm using 6013 sticks (3/32") and have the unit turned up past 100 amps, to the 120 amp area (but it may be limited to 100 AMPS).

I'm welding 3/16" bare steel plate, that I've cut in various sizes, just for practice. An example of my welding failures would be this morning. I was just screwing around with a couple pieces of this 3/16" thick weldable steel. I placed on piece on the other to make a "T" . I made sure the areas were clean (used a SS wire brush), and began welding. I ran a bead down the 3" joint, which used up about 1/3 of the stick (I'm trying to really slow down in an attempt to make the welds "take" better....not sure if that's the right strategy?). Once cool, I took a pair of pliers and pretty easily broke the two pieces apart. It seems that the only "connections" were at a few spots....which seemed pretty porous. In most places, despite how long I tried to keep the arc on the seam (by going slow and trying to "weave" back and forth a bit), the weld was only adhered to one part. ??

Any thoughts on what i may be doing wrong.....perhaps it's just the welder itself? Wrong sticks? Bad operator? Ideas??

Update: I see my welder indicates AC output, not DC. Not sure if that matters in terms of my problems.

Lomez screwed with this post 03-30-2011 at 02:14 PM
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:35 PM   #1911
David R
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Question

Lomez, maybe I can help.
Try a grinder to clean your steel.

This manual says 75-105 amps for your 3/32 6013. I bet you are going way too fast. You should only be getting a few inches of weld per rod.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...ld37/c2410.pdf

Point the tip of the rod towards the start of the weld or drag the rod about 20* watching the puddle stay as a pool just behind the rod on both pieces of plate.

The other question I have is what is your welder plugged in to? Is it near the panel? How many amps are the circuit you have it plugged into? What does the welder say it draws at max amp output?

David
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:17 PM   #1912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomez View Post
I'm new to welding, but have been "practicing" for a while. The problem is, I NEVER seem to get a weld that's strong. ?? I am always able to break the two pieces of metal apart again, by hand.

I have a cheapo Chicago Electric (utility arc 1400), DC, 110v input stick welder. I'm using 6013 sticks (3/32") and have the unit turned up past 100 amps, to the 120 amp area (but it may be limited to 100 AMPS).

I'm welding 3/16" bare steel plate, that I've cut in various sizes, just for practice. An example of my welding failures would be this morning. I was just screwing around with a couple pieces of this 3/16" thick weldable steel. I placed on piece on the other to make a "T" . I made sure the areas were clean (used a SS wire brush), and began welding. I ran a bead down the 3" joint, which used up about 1/3 of the stick (I'm trying to really slow down in an attempt to make the welds "take" better....not sure if that's the right strategy?). Once cool, I took a pair of pliers and pretty easily broke the two pieces apart. It seems that the only "connections" were at a few spots....which seemed pretty porous. In most places, despite how long I tried to keep the arc on the seam (by going slow and trying to "weave" back and forth a bit), the weld was only adhered to one part. ??

Any thoughts on what i may be doing wrong.....perhaps it's just the welder itself? Wrong sticks? Bad operator? Ideas??

Update: I see my welder indicates AC output, not DC. Not sure if that matters in terms of my problems.
Clean metal is important but so is being able to see the weld puddle form. Try some 3/32 6011 rod at about 80 amps for 3/16 mild steel. When you fire up hold the rod in one place and watch a puddle form then move the rod about 1/2 the size of puddle foreward and return to the leading edge of the puddle. The puddle should be centered between the two pieces you are trying to weld.
6013 is a little harder to distinguish between slag and actual weld puddle, esp if you are a little red/orange color blind like Iam.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:03 AM   #1913
Lomez
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Resolved

Welder was plugged into a surge protector.....which, when I traced it back, was plugged into yet another surge protector.

Plugged the unit directly into the wall and did some welding- ROCK solid

Thanks for all the help fellas! I think I've got it!
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:06 PM   #1914
Pablo83
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Originally Posted by TourPros View Post
I have some experience in Acetylene torches as well as arc welding. I am curious as to what is the best all around form of welding for my small shop. I will be doing, motorcycles, tube fabrication, misc trailer fixes etc
If you don't have to weld aluminum, I'd say MIG. It's not as versatile as TIG, but it's a whole lot faster.
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:10 AM   #1915
slidewayes
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how do i get my hand to quit shakeing
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:34 AM   #1916
trailer Rails
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how do i get my hand to quit shakeing
That is how you get the nice puddles. Drink more coffee.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:56 AM   #1917
Lomez
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Very dumb question I'm sure; but, I have never really received a solid answer on this one:

Stick Welding: Can you HOLD one of the pieces being welded? Or, will you get a nice jolt?

I think you can, so long as the path of least resistance is clearly in very much in favor of electrode to ground clamp......but, not 100% on this. My the way, 90% of the time I don't use welding gloves, if that matters.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:29 AM   #1918
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Lacks sufficent information? What process? I am left to ASSUME they are talking about DC tig

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Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
One of my favorites:

"Which polarity puts more heat into the work, straight or reverse?"

So, WHY is this question dumb?
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:33 PM   #1919
Lomez
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Lacks sufficent information? What process? I am left to ASSUME they are talking about DC tig
Basic stick welder, no gas....the flux on the stick. Mine is AC output.

I'm talking about just using one hand to hold one of the items being welded, while wearing shoes....on concrete.
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Old 04-01-2011, 02:11 PM   #1920
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I have been reminded of this on several occasions.

Stick welding on EP and then pulling out the tig torch and forgetting to swap polarity. The almost instant vaporization of the tungsten has kind of clued me in.



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Right on. Not every welder realizes that with DC TIG on straight pol. (EN) most of the heat goes into the work, and the opposite with DC stick.
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