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Old 05-17-2012, 06:55 AM   #2776
dmaxmike
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Just saw this thread for the first time. Looks to be some very competent fabricators in here. me Im just a welder never got good enough to call myself a fabricator, at least not in my mind. Others think i know what Im doing so I must look the part. Cheers!
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:02 AM   #2777
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
A gas lens will let you extend the tungsten more and still get coverage. Size of cup and space can help. As long as you get gas coverage.
David
I have a gas lens on the wp9, is there a rule about stickout? I could crank the gas, just thinking a larger cup would help, but since I just need to do these few short welds...

Is there a trick to knowing when youve gone over the line with regards to argon coverage?
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:41 AM   #2778
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Remember that argon is heavier than air and it will pool in a recess. Flip your header so that you're welding straight down, the argon will pool and you can run 'a lot' of stickout (For reference; seems I remember reading as much as an inch in extreme cases.)

If you have a nice white/blue arc, your coverage is good. If you get chocolate brown deposits around the weld, that's lack of shielding.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:57 AM   #2779
David R
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Laugh

poor gas coverage, poor looking weld.
Tungsten will turn black after its hot.

1/2" with a gas lens is totally possible. 3/4" maybe.....

It all depends YMMV Yadda Yadda.........

David
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:19 AM   #2780
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Bought a #4 cup (smallest they make) for my torch along with a regular collet body. I'll see how she goes.
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:29 AM   #2781
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Laugh

Too much gas flow can cause turbulence and suck 02 (air) into the stream of Argon. You will know if the coverage is not right. Please post pictures. Close up...

Have fun
David
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:36 AM   #2782
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
then fine tune the wire speed so the arc sounds like frying bacon............this works very well indeed, and is quick and easy to do.

I have a problem with this.

The other day, I was reading a cookbook for instruction in how to prepare bacon.
The book said to turn the heat up until it sounded like MIG welding.

Now, what do I do?










































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Old 05-19-2012, 06:13 AM   #2783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by small_e_900 View Post
The other day, I was reading a cookbook for instruction in how to prepare bacon.
The book said to turn the heat up until it sounded like MIG welding.


whatever you do, do NOT try to weld with bacon. It makes a greasy mess and no longer tastes good.
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:29 AM   #2784
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See, you're doing it all wrong! All the really good old school machinist's keep bacon fat in the freezer for when the run into something really hard that needs cutting. You smear the bacon fat on the pre-hardened you just chucked up in the Monarch, you don't weld with it silly!
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:01 PM   #2785
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Just more anecdotal BS to add to the bacon sizzling discussion....

While continually self teaching myself to MIG over the last 14 years (wow! time flies), I started copying some weldors I saw on car/hot rod TV shows who plugged holes in sheet metal and did other stuff by just covering the torch with a gloved hand to protect their eyes and pulling the trigger.

While doing this and fine tuning votage and wire speed to get the bacon sizzle sound, I noticed the welds were often better (penetration, accuracy, and appearance) than if I was watching the puddle. Later on I learned how to watch the freeze zone rather than the arc, but I still get some of the best results by sound alone.

Just my comments FWIW.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:29 PM   #2786
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I have a Tig question...

I've got an older Miller Synchrowave 250 (no digital readouts - only knobs and switches).

When it runs, it runs good... but most of the time its having a BIG problem.


When i try to start a nice flame, instead of developing the flame at the point of the tungsten, it'll start popping and arcing back in the cup, and try to make a flame as big as the cup... the tungsten turns bright red very quickly, and it produces a crazy amount of heat.

I've completely replaced the torch.
I've first gapped, then re-finished and gapped the points.
tried other bottles of argon
Does the same on DCN or AC (steel or aluminum)

Something i thought was weird is even with the high-freq turned to start, i still see it arcing like crazy (on DC-N) and its arcing way back up in the cup on the tungsten.


Every once in a while it'll start a perfect flame at the tip of the tungsten and purr like a kitten.

I can sit down at any other TIG that works, and lay down some decent beads, so I dont think its my own fault... who knows?
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:13 PM   #2787
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Question

What size tungsten are you using? Do you know that you can't use the same tungsten for DC and AC (red for DC and green for AC)? I know that red and green are old school, but so is the welder. 100% argon?
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:45 AM   #2788
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snip......... Do you know that you can't use the same tungsten for DC and AC (red for DC and green for AC)?....snip......
This statement is incorrect
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:55 AM   #2789
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You are right. I was thinking of the arc problems a green tungsten can cause when welding with an inverter welder.

The question was arc problems on a transformer welder.
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:29 PM   #2790
David R
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My first thought is the torch. Do you have another one to try?
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