Ask your WELDING questions here.

[Twin-shocker]

That rack would be very easy to bend straight, using a propane torch, and shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes to do. If there are any wrinkles in the bend area (unlikely), then simply MIG weld over them, and linish to a perfect finish.

[kirkster70]

I'm getting ready to fabricate a winch bumper out of a combination of 6061-T6 and 5052 aluminum plate. 6061 for framing, 5052 for cosmetics.

Would 4043 or 5356 be a better filler rod for this application?

I've read that 4043 is less prone to cold cracking on 6061, but 5356 has better strength and ductility than 4043. It won't be subjected to constant temps above 150F, which is not good for 5356. It also won't be anodized, so color match isn't an issue.

Sounds like either would be fine as the filler is stronger than the HAZ of each joint. Just not sure on what's best for a deer-smashing bumper application. 5356 maybe since shear strength would be the biggest issue?

Thanks in advance.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by sakurama

Well I posted months ago looking for tips as I was tackling building my own exhaust. I finally finished so I figured I'd post back some photos. I got some good advice here and elsewhere and certainly learned a lot in the process of making it. I feel very comfortable with stainless now. Anyway, here's a couple of shots of the final product.







I like that last one as it shows the first header flange I cooked which prompted me to go on a mission to learn how to weld stainless better and then on the right is the last header flange I made which I think sums up my learning curve.





There's more photos in my build thread but I feel like the bike is "finished" for the moment. My fancy pants X pipe didn't work as well as my H pipe (H = 1hp gain) so I'll have to remake that as the H was only done as a test. Still, I learned a lot in making the whole thing and the bike runs great making some kick ass torque. Quite happy.

Gregor

Nice work!

[David R]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

I'm getting ready to fabricate a winch bumper out of a combination of 6061-T6 and 5052 aluminum plate. 6061 for framing, 5052 for cosmetics.

Would 4043 or 5356 be a better filler rod for this application?

I've read that 4043 is less prone to cold cracking on 6061, but 5356 has better strength and ductility than 4043. It won't be subjected to constant temps above 150F, which is not good for 5356. It also won't be anodized, so color match isn't an issue.

Sounds like either would be fine 4 the filler is stronger than the HAZ of each joint. Just not sure on what's best for a deer-smashing bumper application. 5356 maybe since shear strength would be the biggest issue?

Thanks in advance.

I don't think it would matter much, The 4043 flows better, so it is what I would use. Joint design and bumper design will have more to do with strength than filler.

David

[Twin-shocker]

You can use 4043 filler for most aluminum welding, and it means less chance of weld cracks on some jobs.

[Toysrme]

exactly. wont matter either way, both are aws d1.1 (basic structural welding) approved for welding 6010 and 5052 together. pick 4043. itll just make life easier for you.

[kirkster70]

Excellent info. Thanks, guys! 4043 it is. The plate showed up today. Should start fab on Saturday.

[DiabloADV]

I got a 110v Hobart 140 used. I've got it pretty much figured out and ready to start learning. One thing I can't figure out is how to set the gas flow. My gauge is psi not cfh. What psi is 20cfh?

[Toysrme]

its not. that is a PRESSURE regulator
what you need is a FLOW regulator (CFH / LPM)
to actually work out the flow, we'd have to calculate the gas density, line pressure, line diameter and temperature. i love you, but not that much. <3


props for being on the money with your gas flow rate. you normally are around 20-21cfh / 10lpm

[DiabloADV]

Well I know it's a pressure reg. I was just wondering if someone knew from experience what psi I could set it to and be in the ballpark.

[Toysrme]

Idk you want a WAG? Less than 10psi but be warned again you should buy a legit flow regulator, not be messing with pressure regulators........................

[David R]

Just weld and have some one slowly turn it down until you get porosity. Back up a little.

Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.

[DiabloADV]

I guess I should buy a flow gauge. Damn...thought I was done spending.

[RAGBrian]

I have the same issue...I have the dual gauge PSI regulator with my Lincoln HD-3200 Weldpak, not a flow meter.

Some searching online has shown that there are flow meters at reasonable prices (some less than $50.00 that attach to the tank). Also saw a couple of the type that you measure the flow at the nozzle and can set the flow rate with those. They sell for under $15.00. Linky

I have read more than once the "turn it down until it gets porous, then crank it back up a bit" advice.

I have used shielded wire over the years and now want to setup the gas bottle and regulator on my kit and try some GMAW. This thread has been helpful on getting me back on track. Plan to practice some beads today or this weekend. I haven't done any welding in a while, and it shows! .

[Toysrme]

The best thing you could ever do is hook up gas to the weld packs.
There are certified processes of doing everything, but to my knowledge there has NEVER been a certified process for flux-core wire that wasnt spray-transfer. All the 110v and most of the 110/220 and small 220 machines just dont have the amperage to get out of short-ciruit mode. That means youre burying flux into the weld and hoping it rises to the top!

Now it doesnt matter for Joe Backyard rearmoring his mower deck, but imo even joe backyard should strive to eventually be able to pass some basic code like d1.1 structural welding. (as in not so amazing you need to be able to pass ultrasonic, x-ray testable welds for pressure vessels.)