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Old 02-17-2013, 07:40 AM   #3331
Bokrijder
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Thought you were dealing with some weight issues. I'd still think about torching the kingpins off an old lightweight straight axle, if laden weight is a deal.

Not the case - sounds like what you need is a Chinese made commercial garden wagon which can be picked up in my area for around a hundred bucks at Tractor Supply. Modify as required.

(edit) Forgot that you want to use your stuff - then go look at the garden wagon. I was thrown off when you stated the box frame would be super duty, assumed that you wanted the weight carrying ability to be up to the frame standard. (edit)


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Old 02-17-2013, 10:45 PM   #3332
tenelson
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Has anyone ever tried to weld a Guzzi stainless steel fender? The fender for my 850T is cracked, and I'd like to weld. I have a Hobart MIG and 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas. Do I need to get a new spool of wire?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:22 AM   #3333
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JAFO, you're over thinking things. 600lbs is only 150lbs/wheel and it looks like the cart in the link would handle that much. I think you could use a piece of 1/4" black pipe (house hold gas plumbing) for the kning pin and and weld a grade 5 or 8 bolt to it for the axle. that would let you connect the king pin to the knuckle by droping a bolt through the pipe.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:58 AM   #3334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenelson View Post
Has anyone ever tried to weld a Guzzi stainless steel fender? The fender for my 850T is cracked, and I'd like to weld. I have a Hobart MIG and 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas. Do I need to get a new spool of wire?
I would tig weld it or find someone that can. If you mig that you will need correct wire and gas. If you plan to mig a lot of stainless in the future then maybe it is worth it to you ? For the record, I think with the right set up it will weld very nice and with a little grinding and buffing it can be as good as new. Others here may feel different- my .02
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:12 AM   #3335
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenelson View Post
Has anyone ever tried to weld a Guzzi stainless steel fender? The fender for my 850T is cracked, and I'd like to weld. I have a Hobart MIG and 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas. Do I need to get a new spool of wire?
i have never welded a stainless guzzi fender. I have done a few countertops. They suck. They warp.

Tig would be the way to go. It may be easier for you to hire it out.

If you want to do it, you need gas for stainless and stainless wire compatible with what ever your fender is made out of. There are many kinds of stainless. Does a magnet stick to it? Is it chrome plated?

If you do it, measure the thickness of the fender and practice on something else the same.

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Old 02-18-2013, 09:48 AM   #3336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenelson View Post
Has anyone ever tried to weld a Guzzi stainless steel fender? The fender for my 850T is cracked, and I'd like to weld. I have a Hobart MIG and 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas. Do I need to get a new spool of wire?
You can silver solder (braze) stainless. Real hard silver solder like a jewler uses, melting point over a 1000 degrees.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:49 AM   #3337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenelson View Post
Has anyone ever tried to weld a Guzzi stainless steel fender? The fender for my 850T is cracked, and I'd like to weld. I have a Hobart MIG and 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas. Do I need to get a new spool of wire?
Per Miller/Hobart, the gas needed for mig welding stainless steel is a trimix described here: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...tips/MIG_tips/

Stainless wire, compatible with the stainless of the fender is needed along with the trimix gas. Getting some familiarity with welding similar thickness stainless would be wise. However, stainless sheet is fairly expensive from sources such as McMaster-Carr. You can do the math, but after swapping out for a bottle of trimix, new wire, and buying stainless sheet of the right gauge to practice with it is likely that finding someone to TIG weld the fender is less expensive.

I would get good (or decent) at welding stainless sheet before tackling a project such as the fender. Brazing the crack with Safety-Silv 56 is something I would be comfortable doing. Good luck!
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:18 PM   #3338
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Thanks for the responses. I think it would be more economical to hire it out.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:54 PM   #3339
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Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
Also a hobbyist - this is the helmet I use most: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6894_200416894
.
Cheers Mate! After further research these really looked like the best value option to get a bigger window & good TIG performance. I ordered one from an NZ engineering supplies store, Machinery House, & got it yesterday. I had to drill some extra holes in the mask for the headband angle adjuster so it would sit right when flipped down but a few test welds last night left me very impressed otherwise. I'll have to think up another excuse for my crappy welding now

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Old 03-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #3340
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What is making these little splatters on my TIG welds?



That is a 5/8" .049 wall 4130 tube on a 4140 bush, 1/16" tungsten, 1/16 ER70S-2 filler, about 10 l/min straight argon. I don't get it every weld:



From my pannier rack build: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865994

I'm very much a n00b on the TIG & there's lots of things I know I can improve on like keeping a better torch position, balancing the heat better etc, but what it is that causes those splatters I don't know, & I want my welds to be purty dammit Any other general critique welcome too.

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Old 03-04-2013, 07:21 PM   #3341
David R
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I have been tig welding for a long time and never got those.

It looks like your tig weld was completed then the spiders stopped by. The first picture also looks like you are using a contaminated tungsten. ONE dunk and it gets changed. If the arc is a different color than usual, replace the tungsten or regrind it.

The first weld could look better in general. It looks to me like the piece was dirty or your filler was or you dunked and kept on going. The second weld looks better.

10Lpm is plenty of flow for carbon steel. I use about 5-7 litres per minute.

1 Lpm = .478 CFH SO 7 lpm is about 15 CFH.

Just my two cents.

David
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:49 PM   #3342
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Thanks mate! The work was fairly clean but I have been known to dunk the odd electrode I will get more fussy on changing tungstens. Will knock back the gas flow a tad too & save some argon.

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Old 03-04-2013, 08:04 PM   #3343
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In the second pic. take a file and knock down that lil "tit" sticken up there where you finished. If there is nothing under it you pulled out too fast. To dry up the puddle gradually raise the tungsten and you can see the puddle solidify, then break the arc and maintain gas coverage. If it is solid metal you added too much fill wire. There is also some undercut on the top side which would indicate too much amperage or possibly the need for a larger fill wire. the size of the weld (width) coming out of the joint from the right (as seen in the pic) would also indicate too much amperage.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:01 AM   #3344
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Undercutting can also be caused by contaminated tungsten. I keep spares ready.


I consider myself as a professional tungsten dinner. Edit: DUNKER

These are what I am building. 10 for this order.


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Old 03-05-2013, 06:49 PM   #3345
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Cheers guys, I will do some tit investigation when next in the shed I suspect they are solid. I have been using a foot pedal & I have down slope adjustment so I'll try tailing off the power more slowly.

I really should be practising the basics more on nice easy flat stuff before attempting all the changing join angles & section thicknesses on these fiddly lil bits of tube & bush, but the racks needed doing & are now ready for the weekends ride My next major bike project with the TIG will be a 3mm alu bash plate which will have lots of nice straight downhand runs for me to get dialled in on.

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