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Old 03-16-2013, 03:33 PM   #3391
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
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I am trying to convince no one.

The adjustable shade makes me a better welder. If you can't see it you can't weld it. If I can see it better? One helmet for light tig, pulsed spray or stick indoors or outdoors. I use a different helmet for gouging because I don't want to trash my good one. Its also AD.

Changing rods width out flipping the hood up and knowing where to start are much more convenient.

To each his own. We don't have to agree.

I started welding before the AD helmets were out. Then I bought an electronic lens that went in my regular helmet. It was small and did not
always work right. It ate AAA batteries. Still with it small window and adjustable shade I liked it better than a fixed lens.

An electronic lens makes it easier to weld out of position or when I am in an odd position.

GordonH lets see some welds from the new setup.

David
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:51 PM   #3392
fxstbiluigi
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Location: The Dry side of Oregon
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...............
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:55 PM   #3393
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:47 PM   #3394
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
...............
I guess it really depends on what TYPE of welding you do, if you do heavy stuff and alot of stick, or some boat trailers, or wrought iron gates or I dunno Shipyard stuff it won't do anything...or you are like Helen Keller and can weld in braile, then you are good.

However, if you are doing machined parts, Like medical stuff, food grade stainless or Aircraft parts that where you start matters and you ain't guessing at it, or if you do alot of start and stop on the same part in a fixture, then Yep it Matters alot, and saves time and makes me money.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Pass me the Butter pleeze

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Old 03-16-2013, 06:51 PM   #3395
fxstbiluigi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroAcres View Post
I guess it really depends on what TYPE of welding you do, if you do heavy stuff and alot of stick, or some boat trailers, or wrought iron gates or I dunno Shipyard stuff it won't do anything...or you are like Helen Keller and can weld in braile, then you are good.

However, if you are doing machined parts, Like medical stuff, food grade stainless or Aircraft parts that where you start matters and you ain't guessing at it, or if you do alot of start and stop on the same part in a fixture, then Yep it Matters alot, and saves time and makes me money.




Pass me the Butter pleeze

Are you buying the hoods for your hired hands or are you the only one there?
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:38 AM   #3396
sakurama
on an endless build
 
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Meh, auto dark is old news. THIS is the future: http://siliconangle.com/blog/2012/09...ology-can-get/
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:04 AM   #3397
Pike Bishop
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I also don't trust autodark hoods yet. Notice how they don't have any kind of OSHA standards or approvals attached to them yet?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:53 AM   #3398
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Each lens has its place. I prefer my auto darkening 90% of the time but I never go anywhere without a good old #10 and a gold plated one.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:58 AM   #3399
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
Are you buying the hoods for your hired hands or are you the only one there?

I work alone, I own 3 auto hoods right now, and have bought two or three for good welder friends over the years...as gifts.
Like I said, mine make me money, they help out, even when I was doing work on drag cars, you could be under the car or welding in a cage, and in a tight area where you couldn't "flip a hood"..and still see what you were doing.

Different Opinions, That's what makes life interesting.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:18 PM   #3400
KTM640Dakar OP
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My current lid. Mojo, it's a Viking 3350.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:58 PM   #3401
slackmeyer
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Location: Berzerkeley, CA
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Newb question here:
A friend was moving, and gave me an older Lincoln buzzbox (A-225S, I think the model is), and a big (open) box of 7018 electrode, probably open in a humid climate for the last 15-20 years. I think it works, though I'm still waiting for the local utility to give me a new service drop so I have 220v at my house.
Anyway, I've never stick welded before, though I've done a bit of some other types (mig and tig, and a fair amount of gas welding). This seems like a decent enough welder to play around on and make some functional stuff. If it doesn't work for me, I'll try to trade it for a mid size wire feed welder. My hope is that I can dry the welding rod just before I use it with a light bulb/ cardboard or wood box arrangement.
Any comments, either about the rod, the welder, or whether an old simple stick machine is a good all-purpose tool these days?
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:03 AM   #3402
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
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Perhaps you could just buy a few pounds of 6013, 6011 or 7014. All are AC rod and for all position.

Baking the 7018 will dry it out but its still a DC rod.

If you have dirty metal, clean it.

David
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:53 PM   #3403
clintnz
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I want to TIG weld a 4" dia bit of stainless steel tube to a mild steel collar, what filler should I use, stainless, ER70S2 or ? (assuming '?' is likely to be available at the local engineering supplies store)



I have machined a recess in the ring so the tube fits in snugly & will be able to weld the inside end as well as put a fillet on the outside. Any other tips on welding SS to plain steel appreciated.

This is the start of the exhaust pipe for the ginormous turbo a mate is busy bolting to the side of the 1JZ Toyota motor in his race jetboat. The ring still needs to be machined down a bit a fit the v-band that will clamp it on the hairdryer. We will probably be adding a support brace for the tube so it can't flex & crack at this join.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #3404
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
I want to TIG weld a 4" dia bit of stainless steel tube to a mild steel collar, what filler should I use, stainless, ER70S2 or ? (assuming '?' is likely to be available at the local engineering supplies store)



I have machined a recess in the ring so the tube fits in snugly & will be able to weld the inside end as well as put a fillet on the outside. Any other tips on welding SS to plain steel appreciated.

This is the start of the exhaust pipe for the ginormous turbo a mate is busy bolting to the side of the 1JZ Toyota motor in his race jetboat. The ring still needs to be machined down a bit a fit the v-band that will clamp it on the hairdryer. We will probably be adding a support brace for the tube so it can't flex & crack at this join.

Cheers
Clint
Use Stainless wire...
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:42 PM   #3405
EvoLife
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ER309L is the general go-to for carbon to stainless IIRC
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