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Old 08-07-2013, 08:38 AM   #3541
Spacelord
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Remember to let thing cool a minute when you weld a nut to a broken anything. If you want to heat something up, heat the area around where the bolts screws in.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:45 AM   #3542
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I've mentioned it before in this thread, the best stuff to use for broken bolts is an extracting rod and an arc welder...the stuff it like magic.

It's like cheating.


https://www.partsmaster.us/SitePages...?Code=02010305
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #3543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules View Post
why?
Can we assume that stud extractors failed?

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Old 08-07-2013, 01:10 PM   #3544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Can we assume that stud extractors failed?

We can assume that its 2am the night before a race.

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Old 08-07-2013, 01:18 PM   #3545
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Quote:
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We can assume that its 2am the night before a race.



Stud extractors are something I use once every 2-3 years, but I'm glad to have them in my garage tool box. You don't always have sufficient room around the bolt/stud to use them, but when you do they are invaluable.

I had a slew of broken stainless exhaust studs on a Ford E350 years ago. In that case, only removing the heads and having the studs removed with cutters or EDM was going to get them out.
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:33 PM   #3546
groundrules
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Can we assume that stud extractors failed?

My original query involved a stripped out phillips head screw, which is flush with the part it's in. There's nothing to grab. Which is why I'd like to weld something to it.
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:34 PM   #3547
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I've mentioned it before in this thread, the best stuff to use for broken bolts is an extracting rod and an arc welder...the stuff it like magic.

It's like cheating.


https://www.partsmaster.us/SitePages...?Code=02010305
Interesting. Of course if I bought the rod before it would soak up moisture and be junk by the time I needed it. If I ordered the rod as needed I'd figure out a way to get the stud out by the time the rod got here.

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Old 08-07-2013, 02:44 PM   #3548
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I've mentioned it before in this thread, the best stuff to use for broken bolts is an extracting rod and an arc welder...the stuff it like magic.

It's like cheating.


https://www.partsmaster.us/SitePages...?Code=02010305
I don't doubt that your rod works. After a while using "Miricle rod" gets old and so does paying the big $ for it. If I can get a stud or broken bolt out with what I have on hand, I will. Tig, I use stainless 316 filler on broken studs. I have used the 110 volt mig with .023 wire, 7018 stick, or what ever else is handy and can get near the problem stud.

Part of the method is the bolt heats up from the weld. It can only expand length wise because its held in the hole. When it cools, it shrinks in all directions including diameter, so it comes out easier. This is why using all the heat I can helps.

If the only tool a man has is a hammer, he will see all his problems as nails. I have a welder.

David
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:57 PM   #3549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I've mentioned it before in this thread, the best stuff to use for broken bolts is an extracting rod and an arc welder...the stuff it like magic.

It's like cheating.


https://www.partsmaster.us/SitePages...?Code=02010305
Where I've found this really shines is when the fastener is broken below the surface, just about worth it's weight in gold then
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #3550
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Good Part, Broken Tap...Must Save

Oppps..



Alittle bit of TIG



A few past saves, if you look you can see the EZ-Out Fail...

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Old 08-18-2013, 02:05 AM   #3551
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You will find that a blob of weld, and turning out with a vise grip tends to work more effectively than welding on a nut. Its also faster to use a MIG set, if you have space for access.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:30 AM   #3552
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
You will find that a blob of weld, and turning out with a vise grip tends to work more effectively than welding on a nut. Its also faster to use a MIG set, if you have space for access.
You are seriously going to try and tell me that MIG is BETTER for building up and removing a bolt that is flush / or many threads down in a hole than TIG...??

A "Blob" of weld on that stainless part would be un acceptable to my customer...not to mention ruin the part...that is a M5 tap that was broke off going in..it can now be tapped and sold as a completed part instead of scrapped due to fked up threads from MIG...welding a BLOB.

I guess using an Electric Impact to remove them (using the nut I welded on) won't work either??? Please don't tell that to all them broke parts laying there, cuz that's how I get them out...


Fast...ViseGrips...Not Me....
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:51 AM   #3553
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Give MIG a try...........gets heat into the broken bolt very fast, and as long as there is no attempt to weld on a nut, works in almost all cases.

But not as effective as TIG for bolts broken off well below the surface of the part.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:05 AM   #3554
David R
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Mig, Tig, Stick. It all depends on the job which process I use.

If I could turn it out with vice grips then it was not in too tight.

How about ARC AIR? I burned this lug nut off a truck with fancy wheels. I didn't want to trash the wheel, so I used an 1/8" carbon and about 150 amps.





The dozen or so bolts shown on the previous page out of a V8 Ford were in done with the engine in the truck. Mig was the process for those and the studs were not in all that tight. The one shown for the Ninja 600 was also in the bike, but we hung the bike up by the front tire and Used TIG because that somebitch was in there and I needed all the heat I could get into the bolt.

All processes work. Depends on the job just like any other welding job.

This weeks adventure was an intake manifold off a 270 GMC straight 6 cylinder. I don't know how old it was, but the manifold was on the bench and the tig torch was there. Stainless filler, gas lens and lots of tungsten sticking out worked on that job. It still took me a few tries before I got it. The studs (2) were broken just flush. I can take pictures if you want. After a while they all look the same.

Keep at it.
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David R screwed with this post 08-18-2013 at 05:14 AM
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:19 AM   #3555
NitroAcres
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I actually have used Stick / MIG, PlasmaCutter and OxyAcet...for getting bolts/studs out of tractors, trucks, heavy equipment and boat trailers ...just not inside the shop for sub-surface bolt removal as pictured...
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