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Old 03-07-2007, 06:17 PM   #31
RocketJ
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Question +1 with another question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagot
Can you tell me what Heat Treatment procedure to do after welding 6061-T6 Aluminum. Does the filler rod come into effect.
Not trying to do this at home -just curious.
I see you have a KTM. Well, Do you know what material the axle clamps are made of? Could 6061 brackets be welded on? Rod? Heat treat? Not for home use, just want to verify a welding shop's plan of action.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKDADDY
I have a question for you. I have a Chicago Electric MIG100 and the spool is broken on it. Where do I get parts for it? Or do I toss it and get a new one?
There are alot of off shore companies that make welders for company's who private label them. Most of your big Tool catalogs have cheap welders in them and they are usually not very good. Your Chicago Electric is one example. The problem you then have is the catalog companies are always shopping to find a manufacturer who is willing to make an even cheaper machine so they change suppliers and drop the spare parts. Then you are stuck with a welder that you can't find parts for and you are screwed.

I would search the internet for Chicago Electric and see if you can find a new spool gun.

Or try this:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/produ...ig_140_180.asp
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:31 PM   #33
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Thanks KTM. Thats the problem I'm having. Well it will make a good garage sale item I guess.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fubars
Stick Welding Aluminum.....

I was told you have to preheat your work. That didn't help when I tried it. Only thing that happens is the rod just disinegrates, and I get a pile of slag on the work. What am I doing wrong?

Usually you need to protect the molten aluminum from the oxygen that is in the air or it will react with it, and form Aluminum oxide. You normally use Argon gas to do this. The argon will flow around the molten aluminum and is delivered through a torch nozzle of the electric arc. If you don't protect the molten puddle then the oxygen will cause your weld to have gas holes in it (porosity) and the filler rod will ball up an not flow. I have never seen a good aluminum stick electrode that actually worked.

In the sixties they used to call TIG welding using 100% helium gas Heliarc Welding. Helium is also a good inert gas to use to protect molten aluminum weld puddles. Because of costs most people now use argon gas rather than helium.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:38 PM   #35
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One more question for ya. I have a 1961 Airstream camper I am re-modeling and I need to weld some of the frame joints on it to strengthen them up. Would a stick welder work best? I'm guessing but the frame seems to be a little thicker than a standard PU truck frame but not much. I took a ton of welding classes in high school but never used the knowledge since then. I bet I can still weld pretty good though.

Thanks for your knowledge sharing.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKDADDY
I have a question for you. I have a Chicago Electric MIG100 and the spool is broken on it. Where do I get parts for it? Or do I toss it and get a new one?
You mean the plastic 'spindle' the holds the wire spool? And it has a spring-load on it for drag?

- Jim

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Old 03-07-2007, 06:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketJ
I see you have a KTM. Well, Do you know what material the axle clamps are made of? Could 6061 brackets be welded on? Rod? Heat treat? Not for home use, just want to verify a welding shop's plan of action.

I'm not sure what material is used for those clamps.
As long as they can weld it without distorting it you should be fine. You also want to make sure that it is not made out of cast aluminum just because it is harder to weld. I would be careful if you plan to use these brackets to hold brake calipers on though. You don't want them to fail, and brakes have huge stresses transfering the the lower fork.

I would use 5356 filler rod and TIG weld it. 6061 is a very common aluminum grade that is friendly to welding.
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KTM640Dakar screwed with this post 03-07-2007 at 07:03 PM
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside


You mean the plastic spool 'spindle' that as a spring-load on it for drag?

- Jim
Yep, It broke off from the base it was attached to. Plastic, and it matches the hole it broke from. Would some type of epoxy fix it?
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKDADDY
One more question for ya. I have a 1961 Airstream camper I am re-modeling and I need to weld some of the frame joints on it to strengthen them up. Would a stick welder work best? I'm guessing but the frame seems to be a little thicker than a standard PU truck frame but not much. I took a ton of welding classes in high school but never used the knowledge since then. I bet I can still weld pretty good though.

Thanks for your knowledge sharing.

Welding is like riding a bike. Once you learn it you will get up to speed quickly even if it has been awhile.

Yes, a great project for stick welding. Frames are nice and heavy and will take the heat of welding easy.
Try using a 7018 stick electrode. If you use a 1/8 inch diameter stick set your machine to DC+ and use about 95 amps if you are welding overhead, or 105 amps if you can weld in the flat position.

If you have not welded in a while try a 6013 electrode. It is a little easier to run. Both will over match the strength of your frame.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside


Thank you K6D.

Does Lincoln offer a Plasma Arc Welder(s) in their lineup? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place on the site.

- Jim
You know Jim we really have never had a market for Plasma Welders. Most people use TIG rather than Plasma. We do make plasma cutters but no Plasma welders.
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Old 03-07-2007, 07:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
Welding is like riding a bike. Once you learn it you will get up to speed quickly even if it has been awhile.

Yes, a great project for stick welding. Frames are nice and heavy and will take the heat of welding easy.
Try using a 7018 stick electrode. If you use a 1/8 inch diameter stick set your machine to DC+ and use about 95 amps if you are welding overhead, or 105 amps if you can weld in the flat position.

If you have not welded in a while try a 6013 electrode. It is a little easier to run. Both will over match the strength of your frame.
Thanks again KTM. You da man!
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:11 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKDADDY
Yep, It broke off from the base it was attached to. Plastic, and it matches the hole it broke from. Would some type of epoxy fix it?
No sense getting rid of a handy flux core machine.

Sure epoxy 'liquid steel' stuff. Or a solvent bond like ABS cement if it is ABS.

Even the red and blue wire spindles are plastic. It has nothing to do with what country the machine components are made in.

Or, you can prolly fashion one out of PVC or a wood dowel. Maybe you can reuse the spring and wingnut that it came with.

Open up the case and see what's behind the spool. There almost nothing inside of a transformer power supply. Feel free to attach anything you can think of the sheet metal to support the spool. Just as long as nothing conductive touches the wire.

- Jim

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Old 03-07-2007, 08:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
You know Jim we really have never had a market for Plasma Welders. Most people use TIG rather than Plasma. We do make plasma cutters but no Plasma welders.
That makes sense. I just thought you may be working on them. Maybe the market will get 'created' later.

I like the process.

- Jim

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Old 03-07-2007, 08:22 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKDADDY
Thanks again KTM. You da man!
Your welcome.
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:02 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
No sense getting rid of a handy flux core machine.

Sure epoxy 'liquid steel' stuff. Or a solvent bond like ABS cement if it is ABS.

Even the red and blue wire spindles are plastic. It has nothing to do with what country the machine components are made in.

Or, you can prolly fashion one out of PVC or a wood dowel. Maybe you can reuse the spring and wingnut that it came with.

Open up the case and see what's behind the spool. There almost nothing inside of a transformer power supply. Feel free to attach anything you can think of the sheet metal to support the spool. Just as long as nothing conductive touches the wire.

- Jim
Good ideas that I can add to my list of stuff to fix.

Thanks
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