Ask your WELDING questions here.

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by BrushApe

KTM - thanks for offering this service. Here is what I have for a problem. This is a 1999 BMW F650 Funduro. This is the outside of the swingarm pivot on the left frame side.
I just bought the bike in January and have not rode it. Somehow I missed this problem prior to buying the bike. I suspect it was cracked but the paint had not cracked until sitting in my garage and the temp varied. Or I just plain missed it. I don't think the seller saw it and the third party I had look at the bike missed it also. I have not rode it and I don't plan on riding the bike unless I think everything is right/fixed.

I ground the paint off with a dremel. - Now that I look at it not well enough. I will have to grind more paint and see if that vertical crack is travelling north.

It appears the crack is right next to the weld. I think the weird looking thing is a spider I scared out of the swingarm pivot.

How do I go about fixing this? Or more realistically if I take it to a pro welder what should I expect from him. I like to be a little educated in what work I am having done - not that I want to act like a know-it-all.

Yes you can fix it.

I would remove it from the bike and pull the bearings out so you don't burn them. You might distort the hole when you weld it but there is no way to tell for sure until you do it. If you weld it fast with low heat input then that should cut down on the distortion. Your weld will reinforce the boss of the pivot so you should not have to worry about it cracking again.

If you don't feel like taking the swing arm off then weld it while it is on and hope for the best. But be careful of toasting the bearings.

Tell us how everything works out for you and post pictures if you can.

Good luck!

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

The Blue Max 2100 is actually a 312 series stainless. It has lots of chrome and nickel in it which makes is a very useful for many steel applications.

You should never let stick electrode get wet. It is even bad to keep it out more than eight hours in a humid environment. If you have a rod oven you can probably get away with drying it once.

Thanks for the chemical info. Does Blue Max 2100 have an AWS number not listed on the datasheet?

As you know, not all stick electrodes can be dried. It does not say in the literature if BM2100, or other stainless electrodes, can be 'reconditioned' or 'dried'. Then again, it doesn't say that they can't either. Are you confirming that the flux on the BM 2100 can be 'dried'?

The Lincoln datasheets for the 6000, 7000, 8000 series are clear about which can be dried, and which cannot. It is clear that the flux type for 6010/6011/7010/8010/9010 electrodes should not be dried.

And it is clear about the procedures for drying all the others, and the limit of how many times it can be done. I read every word and did not see a limit. Maybe you can point us to a datasheet?

So what about the stainless rods. Can they all be 'reconditioned'?

- Jim

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by Poolside

Thanks for the chemical info. Does Blue Max 2100 have an AWS number not listed on the datasheet?

As you know, not all stick electrodes can be dried. It does not say in the literature if BM2100, or other stainless electrodes, can be 'reconditioned' or 'dried'. Then again, it doesn't say that they can't either. Are you confirming that the flux on the BM 2100 can be 'dried'?

The Lincoln datasheets for the 6000, 7000, 8000 series are clear about which can be dried, and which cannot. It is clear that the flux type for 6010/6011/7010/8010/9010 electrodes should not be dried.

And it is clear about the procedures for drying all the others, and the limit of how many times it can be done. I read every word and did not see a limit. Maybe you can point us to a datasheet?

So what about the stainless rods. Can they all be 'reconditioned'?

- Jim

Here Jim read about electrode storage here.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...nt/storing.asp

The goal is to never expose stick electode to moisture. There becomes a point where you will never get the electode dry enough to meet hydrogen limits.

The Lincoln Blue Max 2100 is a special electrode that does not have an AWS designation. It is an all purpose rod. It has a high tensile strengh that usually over matches most mild steel tensile strength requirements.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

Here Jim read about electrode storage here.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...nt/storing.asp

The goal is to never expose stick electode to moisture. There becomes a point where you will never get the electode dry enough to meet hydrogen limits.

The Lincoln Blue Max 2100 is a special electrode that does not have an AWS designation. It is an all purpose rod. It has a high tensile strengh that usually over matches most mild steel tensile strength requirements.

Thanks for the 2100 info.

I mentioned I've read that data KTM. What about drying the stainless electrodes?

Let me ask again . . . It does not say in the literature if the stainless electrodes can be reconditioned.

Then again, it doesn't say that they can't either.

Are you confirming your earlier statement that the flux on the stainless family can be 'dried'?

You are starting to sound like an an engineer, a SALES engineer

You can say I don't know. In case you didn't know.

- Jim

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by Poolside

Thanks for the 2100 info.

I mentioned I've read that data KTM. What about drying the stainless electrodes?

Let me ask again . . . It does not say in the literature if the stainless electrodes can be reconditioned.

Then again, it doesn't say that they can't either.

Are you confirming your earlier statement that the flux on the stainless family can be 'dried'?

You are starting to sound like an an engineer, a SALES engineer

You can say I don't know. In case you didn't know.

- Jim

No there is not really any information on drying stainless welding stick electrode. You should treat it like any other electrode and keep it dry.

I say that from an engineering perspective because it is stupid to take chances. That doesn't mean people don't do it any way. It's just not good practice. I don't want to give bad advice.

If you keep the electrode in it's airtight container then you are going to help make it last longer. If you have rod oven then try and bake the rod. Then try it and see if if works. If you weld with it and get a lot of porosity in the weld then you know it didn't.

[GTinAus]

Do you have any tips for welding pressure cast aluminium (where the aluminium is forced into the mold under pressure, to eliminate defects).

When I TiG weld it, the parent metal seems to release the disolved gas, and while the weld metal is OK, the join on the parent metal is porous.

[gsweave]

Originally Posted by Poolside

Thanks for the 2100 info.

I mentioned I've read that data KTM. What about drying the stainless electrodes?

Let me ask again . . . It does not say in the literature if the stainless electrodes can be reconditioned.

Then again, it doesn't say that they can't either.

Are you confirming your earlier statement that the flux on the stainless family can be 'dried'?

You are starting to sound like an an engineer, a SALES engineer

You can say I don't know. In case you didn't know.

- Jim

Poolside,

You want, I should mail you some silica dessicants to store with your rods.

We go through Electrodes so quick, moisture is never a problem.

But if you store them with dessicants they should survive a couple of Ca monsoons.

Dan

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by gsweave

Poolside,

You want, I should mail you some silica dessicants to store with your rods.

Yea thanks, I ate all mine.

(I'll pm you an address. Thanks Dan)

- Jim

[LoFlow]

Originally Posted by GTinAus

Do you have any tips for welding pressure cast aluminium (where the aluminium is forced into the mold under pressure, to eliminate defects).

When I TiG weld it, the parent metal seems to release the disolved gas, and while the weld metal is OK, the join on the parent metal is porous.

I can't really help you but I have been having the same problem welding on some of the newer castings. Transmission cases and intake manifolds come to mind. I have been told that manufacturers are adding silicone to the aluminum for more intricate and less porous castings. This would explain your description of gaseous and poor flow of the parent metal.

What ever it is, it is sure fustrating for sure.

[gsweave]

Originally Posted by Poolside

Yea thanks, I ate all mine.

(I'll pm you an address. Thanks Dan)

- Jim

Dig deep in this package.

I got a special surprise for ya.

And no, it's not for human consumption.

They will however be very dry

[Pilbara]

Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

Yes you can MIG weld it. Chrome Molly tubing is usually welded with a wire called Super Arc LA-90. It is an ER80S-D2 welding wire.

I tried to buy this wire and here is the response...

Kelvin,
Thank you for your enquiry.

Part No. : 01193985 WIRE MIG AUSTMIG ESD2 0.9MM 15KG ESD209S $ 121.44 EACH pack eta mid April

Part No. : 02393607 WIRE MIG AUTO MN-MO 15KG 720049 0.9MM 15kg pack $ 8.18 KG eta late April
cheers
C


CATHERINE LARKIN
MAJOR MURCHISON MINING ACCOUNTS
BLACKWOODS
CANNING VALE
PH 08 93116455 FAX 08 93116541
A DIVISION OF WESFARMERS INDUSTRIAL AND SAFETY

They don't happen to sell it on the Handispool 4.5kg rolls in US do they? I would be quicker getting one sent from there if they do...

Cheers
Pilbara

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by Pilbara

I tried to buy this wire and here is the response...

Kelvin,
Thank you for your enquiry.

Part No. : 01193985 WIRE MIG AUSTMIG ESD2 0.9MM 15KG ESD209S $ 121.44 EACH pack eta mid April

Part No. : 02393607 WIRE MIG AUTO MN-MO 15KG 720049 0.9MM 15kg pack $ 8.18 KG eta late April
cheers
C


CATHERINE LARKIN
MAJOR MURCHISON MINING ACCOUNTS
BLACKWOODS
CANNING VALE
PH 08 93116455 FAX 08 93116541
A DIVISION OF WESFARMERS INDUSTRIAL AND SAFETY

They don't happen to sell it on the Handispool 4.5kg rolls in US do they? I would be quicker getting one sent from there if they do...

Cheers
Pilbara

Hi Pilbara,

Please call our office in Australia at: 61 2 9772 7222

They can search our distrubutor network in Austrialia and find out who has some in stock. Ask for Super Arc LA-90. You may also have them search for different package sizes. In the US we have 33 pound spools, 44 pound spools, 44 pound fiber spools. The wire is about $3.00 per pound US.

I know that you use kg in OZ but still see if there is any available in different package sizes.

If you want to order it in the US it is sized in .035 inch diameter(.09mm)
33 pound spool is ED031413
44 pound fiber spool is ED029546

The ED#'s are US part numbers.

Good Luck!

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by GTinAus

Do you have any tips for welding pressure cast aluminium (where the aluminium is forced into the mold under pressure, to eliminate defects).

When I TiG weld it, the parent metal seems to release the disolved gas, and while the weld metal is OK, the join on the parent metal is porous.

Cast aluminum is a pain in the a$$ to weld. Some flavors of aluminum are better than others to weld and a majority of the Aluminum family is not weldable.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/products/litrequest/

Here is a link to the Lincoln literature request page. You can request any literature the we have for free.

Choose the Aluminum Welding Guide which is C8.100. That book will tell you everything you need to know about welding aluminum. And it is free!

[Pilbara]

Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

Hi Pilbara,

Please call our office in Australia at: 61 2 9772 7222

They can search our distrubutor network in Austrialia and find out who has some in stock. Ask for Super Arc LA-90. You may also have them search for different package sizes. In the US we have 33 pound spools, 44 pound spools, 44 pound fiber spools. The wire is about $3.00 per pound US.

I know that you use kg in OZ but still see if there is any available in different package sizes.

If you want to order it in the US it is sized in .035 inch diameter(.09mm)
33 pound spool is ED031413
44 pound fiber spool is ED029546

The ED#'s are US part numbers.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the info ktm640dakar but I left messages with tech help and no one returned any calls so I have just bronze welded it instead. Bot more of a pain as I had to take the forks and head bearings out as a precaution. Think I would have been far enough away and less heat with the MIG, but was not to be. Probaby could have just used any wire but i feel more comfortable with what I am used to as I don't want to be worried about it falling off

Cheers
Pilbara

[Reinhold]

Here's a real basic question from someone who would like to pick up a welder for shop use but has no experience. Would use it for welding aluminium skid plates, brackets etc and also for some steel. Tig or mig...whats the difference? What model of Lincoln would you recommend? Thanks for the thread!