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Old 09-04-2013, 05:33 PM   #5536
atokad
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Originally Posted by Nevada View Post
No, no, no. You're supposed to use cloth adhesive tape. Just make sure that you thoroughly impregnate it with Vaseline after you've wrapped the wires to keep any moisture out.
Wait, I was supposed to TAPE the wires after I used superglue to hold them together??
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:21 AM   #5537
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I'll keep this thread moving along and put my money where my mouth is.

In the past, when solicited, I've recommended OSB for sheeting and stains for concrete. This is my smaller garage (22'X22') I just finished. I used Sherwin Williams ProBlock Primer, SW SherScrub latex paint (2 coats-this stuff is high build and thick, like paint used to be) on the walls, SW H&C solvent-based solid color stain (2 coats), and SW H&C solvent-based clear gloss (2 coats) on the floor. I used 2-1/2 tubes of latex painter's caulk on the sheeting seams, joints, and screws/nails. If you have any questions, please ask.




I'm going to be doing my shop next. It's split in halves and will get totally different colors. I'm going to try SW's water-based floor products in it, as it doesn't see near the traffic or chemical exposure as the garage. SW has a "high-gloss" product I want to try.

This is what it looked like, caulked and primed.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #5538
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
I'll keep this thread moving along and put my money where my mouth is.

In the past, when solicited, I've recommended OSB for sheeting and stains for concrete. This is my smaller garage (22'X22') I just finished. I used Sherwin Williams ProBlock Primer, SW SherScrub latex paint (2 coats-this stuff is high build and thick, like paint used to be) on the walls, SW H&C solvent-based solid color stain (2 coats), and SW H&C solvent-based clear gloss (2 coats) on the floor. I used 2-1/2 tubes of latex painter's caulk on the sheeting seams, joints, and screws/nails. If you have any questions, please ask.

I'm going to be doing my shop next. It's split in halves and will get totally different colors. I'm going to try SW's water-based floor products in it, as it doesn't see near the traffic or chemical exposure as the garage. SW has a "high-gloss" product I want to try.
How hard was it to do the solvent-based stain? We are building ours right now and I went down to Home Depot and looked at the stuff they have there and it seemed pretty easy, but I have no idea how durable it will be.

Your floor looks pretty damn durable--can the average joe do it?

TC


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Old 09-15-2013, 06:15 PM   #5539
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How hard was it to do the solvent-based stain? We are building ours right now and I went down to Home Depot and looked at the stuff they have there and it seemed pretty easy, but I have no idea how durable it will be.

Your floor looks pretty damn durable--can the average joe do it?

TC
Prep is the most important thing. If your concrete is "green", you need to ask the contractor how long to wait before you etch it. Any coating needs a "bite". I'd recommend a 25-40% muriatic acid mix (mix it in 5gal buckets, have them ready, just dump them on the floor, slosh it around with a broom, rinse). I've used 50% mix, but, it can get a little aggressive and leave the surface more porous than I like. I usually pressure wash twice, in perpendicular directions. Let is sit 2-3 days. If you use water-based stain, you don't need to wait.

The advantage to stain is that it actually penetrates the concrete; paint doesn't. I cut down the first coat with 10% xylene. That further thins the stain, so that it can better soak in. The second coat I use straight. If you have any cut stain left, just mix it in with your second coat stain. The clear is optional. I've done them without it and it leaves an eggshell sheen, yet as porous as the concrete originally was before staining.

I prefer to use the H&C line that Sherwin Williams sells. I'm not familiar with anything Home Depot sells, as we don't have one where I live.

Yes. A DIYer can do it. There's nothing tricky about it. Of course, there are techniques and equipment (Wooster 18" roller setup is advantageous) that does make a difference. But, don't let that dissuade you.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:59 PM   #5540
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Question Sheathing?

Looks great Ducnut!

Am I understanding correctly that you use OSB for the walls instead of sheet rock? Or is there sheet rock AND OSB over it?

The reasons for using OSB?
I am guessing it is much more damage resistant and you can attach things to it anywhere, are there other reasons?

Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:41 PM   #5541
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
Prep is the most important thing. If your concrete is "green", you need to ask the contractor how long to wait before you etch it. Any coating needs a "bite". I'd recommend a 25-40% muriatic acid mix (mix it in 5gal buckets, have them ready, just dump them on the floor, slosh it around with a broom, rinse). I've used 50% mix, but, it can get a little aggressive and leave the surface more porous than I like. I usually pressure wash twice, in perpendicular directions. Let is sit 2-3 days. If you use water-based stain, you don't need to wait.

The advantage to stain is that it actually penetrates the concrete; paint doesn't. I cut down the first coat with 10% xylene. That further thins the stain, so that it can better soak in. The second coat I use straight. If you have any cut stain left, just mix it in with your second coat stain. The clear is optional. I've done them without it and it leaves an eggshell sheen, yet as porous as the concrete originally was before staining.

I prefer to use the H&C line that Sherwin Williams sells. I'm not familiar with anything Home Depot sells, as we don't have one where I live.

Yes. A DIYer can do it. There's nothing tricky about it. Of course, there are techniques and equipment (Wooster 18" roller setup is advantageous) that does make a difference. But, don't let that dissuade you.
I have H&C stained several patios (at my own house) and decks and driveways of my rental homes. While it does look great, durable would not be a word I used to describe concrete stain AT ALL!!

It scratches and is affected from the simplest of chemicals. I have ruined my back porch with gas can that had just a little bit of gas spillage on the sides. Pine-sol from your carb soak will totally eat it away. IF durability is what you're looking for, H&C (sold at both HomeDepot and Sherwin Williams) is not your answer - although it would be the cheapest and quickest. The one good thing I can say about H&C concrete stain is that it's quick and cheap. Great for rental house patios and whatnots...
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:54 PM   #5542
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Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
The reasons for using OSB?
I am guessing it is much more damage resistant and you can attach things to it anywhere, are there other reasons?
Just as you stated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vankaye View Post
I have H&C stained several patios (at my own house) and decks and driveways of my rental homes. While it does look great, durable would not be a word I used to describe concrete stain AT ALL!!

It scratches and is affected from the simplest of chemicals. I have ruined my back porch with gas can that had just a little bit of gas spillage on the sides. Pine-sol from your carb soak will totally eat it away. IF durability is what you're looking for, H&C (sold at both HomeDepot and Sherwin Williams) is not your answer - although it would be the cheapest and quickest. The one good thing I can say about H&C concrete stain is that it's quick and cheap. Great for rental house patios and whatnots...
Like anything put down, some chemicals will play hell with it. I've got some stuff that'll go through any coating, given time to soak. Likewise, nearly anything will chip, hit hard enough. Again, proper prep makes all the difference in durability, with impacts.

I've not had any issues with petroleum products, brake cleaner, etc. But, I wipe up my spills. Maybe, the clear makes a difference.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:16 AM   #5543
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:35 PM   #5544
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I am new to this site, but been lurking for awhile. Enjoying everyones man castles, lots of cool shops and ideas. I'll try and post a few pics of mine. A bit crowded but working on more space.
Here's the main working area, and a couple of views. Oh! I'm an addicted Vintage Japanese Bike collector and retired. So this is my fun time
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:42 PM   #5545
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Thumb Yikes!

WOW !!!
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:43 PM   #5546
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Wicked Really!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Rizingson View Post
I am new to this site, but been lurking for awhile. Enjoying everyones man castles, lots of cool shops and ideas. I'll try and post a few pics of mine. A bit crowded but working on more space.
Here's the main working area, and a couple of views. Oh! I'm an addicted Vintage Japanese Bike collector and retired. So this is my fun time
Retired millionaire:cla p

As they say if it make you happy! Carry on!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:06 PM   #5547
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That looks like a bike shop from the 70s! Awesome
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:51 PM   #5548
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That looks like a bike shop from the 70s! Awesome
Thanks for the compliments. I'll probably hang out a lot in the "old school" section
Sign just inside the door says "caution: entering a 60s time warp".
Your not the first person who thinks it looks like a '70s shop. Most of the bikes are from the sixties. I allow up to '75 for my collection. Still have a few newer, such as late 70's and up to '82 now, but they will soon be expendable. Still have more that I can't get into the picture or in another area.
I enjoy cranking up the '60s tune's on the sound system and just mentally drifting back to a happy carefree time, while doing maintenance or frame up restorations. I rode around a lot on the small tiddlers then, dreamed of having the bigger bikes. Now I've finally made that a reality. The shop has two lifts, one for maintenance and one for builds. Also an engine area and cleaning/blasting area. Had intentions to put in a paint area, but since that's not really in my skill set, I farm it out, when needed.
I really enjoy going to Bike show's and showing bikes while meeting people. Also attending auctions whenever possible.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:34 PM   #5549
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Thanks for the compliments. I'll probably hang out a lot in the "old school" section
Sign just inside the door says "caution: entering a 60s time warp".
Your not the first person who thinks it looks like a '70s shop. Most of the bikes are from the sixties. I allow up to '75 for my collection. Still have a few newer, such as late 70's and up to '82 now, but they will soon be expendable. Still have more that I can't get into the picture or in another area.
I enjoy cranking up the '60s tune's on the sound system and just mentally drifting back to a happy carefree time, while doing maintenance or frame up restorations. I rode around a lot on the small tiddlers then, dreamed of having the bigger bikes. Now I've finally made that a reality. The shop has two lifts, one for maintenance and one for builds. Also an engine area and cleaning/blasting area. Had intentions to put in a paint area, but since that's not really in my skill set, I farm it out, when needed.
I really enjoy going to Bike show's and showing bikes while meeting people. Also attending auctions whenever possible.

Would you like to adopt a 48 year old??

I don't eat or drink too much and I love classic Japanese bikes very much!!

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Old 09-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #5550
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Holy...... That is an awesome collection.....think I've ridden a few of them...congrats and continue the good work..
(ps..I'm showing this to the misses...I really can justify more projects..)
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