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Old 08-12-2012, 10:49 AM   #46
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51D7H3K1D View Post
Are the high bars on this bike comfortable? they seem way high. Im not sure how it would look with low bars though... hmmmm,
I'm pretty sure that the bars on mine aren't stock, they're fairly low, and I think they look fine. "Fine" is relative on this rat, but still...

I need to update my thread in Builds about the cafe project. I had some time to tinker a couple of weeks ago and ended up removing a bunch of unnecessary weight...exhaust megaphones, passenger pegs and brackets, starter and solenoid...
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:50 PM   #47
jcmcc
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Hey bumping this thread again for more advice. I'm wondering if anybody has played with gearing at all. Motorcycle superstore has 3 sizes of front sprockets (13,14, and 15 tooth). I know changing the front alters the gearing more than the back. The goal I have is to lower the revs a little on the highway if possible without losing around town drivability. I'm not sure how it would affect top speed- my guess is that it would remain about the same?
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:32 AM   #48
TheOtherBart
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Originally Posted by jcmcc View Post
Hey bumping this thread again for more advice. I'm wondering if anybody has played with gearing at all. Motorcycle superstore has 3 sizes of front sprockets (13,14, and 15 tooth). I know changing the front alters the gearing more than the back. The goal I have is to lower the revs a little on the highway if possible without losing around town drivability. I'm not sure how it would affect top speed- my guess is that it would remain about the same?
I haven't messed with the gearing on mine (I mean what's the point, it just sits there on a dolly in the garage ) but the general rule of thumb is that one tooth on the countershaft gives the same effect as a three-tooth change on the rear sprocket.

And something to be careful of on a little bike like that, it's pretty easy to gear it higher than the engine can pull. You end up losing any drive at speed and basically just bogging around.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:30 AM   #49
FuriousGeorge
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I haven't changed the gearing on mine, but I'd listen to what Bart said. These bikes barely have the power to pull stock gearing. I wouldn't be at all surprised if you lost a little top speed with a larger front sprocket. At least they're pretty cheap. Doesn't cost too much to experiment.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #50
Meter Man
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[QUOTE=TheOtherBart;20592753]I haven't messed with the gearing on mine (I mean what's the point, it just sits there on a dolly in the garage ) but the general rule of thumb is that one tooth on the countershaft gives the same effect as a three-tooth change on the rear sprocket.

And something to be careful of on a little bike like that, it's pretty easy to gear it higher than the engine can pull. You end up losing any drive at speed and basically just bogging around.[/QUOTE]


This.

I went down one in the rear of my Nighthawk 250 (1/3 of the change your proposing) and it is almost too high of gearing to hold speed on the road. Leave it stock
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:11 PM   #51
JerryH
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The TwinStar was a great bike (in it's day) A new one would still be a great bike. But a bike that old is going to have issues, and there are very few parts available for it. That is true for most older Japanese bikes. They are high quality, but the Japanese don't support what they sell for very long, they want you to buy a new bike rather than keep fixing an older one.

These bikes were also designed to make them unfeasible to do major repairs on. The cam runs directly in the head, and when things wear out, both the cam and head have to be replaced. The crank and connecting rods are a one piece pressed together unit, and have to be replaced as one piece. Bearings are not replaceable.

I used to own an '04 Honda Rebel 250, and belonged to a Rebel forum. While Rebel parts are still available, and the 250 is still in production, many people showed up with CM185s, CM200s, CM250s, CB250s, and even CM450 Rebels, looking for parts. Other than eBay, you are pretty much out of luck. I almost bought a 450 Rebel, until I found out about the parts problem. You can't even get a cylinder base gasket for one. Go to cheapcycleparts.com or bikebandit.com and see what they have for parts for these bikes. Almost nothing. Even if it runs great now, it will need parts at some point, and you will have a lawn ornament on wheels. The later model Nighrhawk 250 or Rebel 250 would be a much better deal

A vintage Vespa is also a really fun toy. I have a Genuine Stella, it is the same as a Vespa, only made in India, with a different name. There are tons of mechanical parts for most vintage Vespas. They are like the Harley of scooters.

I have seen so many vintage Japanese bikes on Craigslist that I really wanted, and always found the same thing. No parts available.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:06 PM   #52
jcmcc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
And something to be careful of on a little bike like that, it's pretty easy to gear it higher than the engine can pull. You end up losing any drive at speed and basically just bogging around.
Thats pretty much what I figured would happen.. The question was driven more by curiosity than anything. I would think uphill starts would probably suffer a good deal with a bigger sprocket in front.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:17 AM   #53
readytoride77
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Eek CM200T contact points?

I recently bought a new motor for my 1980 CM200t. Being an idiot, i didn't check to see if the years were compatible, and i bought a 81. when i put it in i figured out that they have a totally different contact point system. mine has a four wire and the new one has an eight wire. Is there a way to swap these out without rewiring the whole thing? any help please.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:01 AM   #54
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First bike was a 1980 cm400. Back then I was around the same size as your friend. 75 is probably an accurate top speed, but it felt faster than 100 on my RR does now.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:38 AM   #55
DisorganizedVince
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmcc View Post
Thats pretty much what I figured would happen.. The question was driven more by curiosity than anything. I would think uphill starts would probably suffer a good deal with a bigger sprocket in front.
I put a bigger front sprocket on my CM200T before I wrecked it - it was +1 or +2 teeth from standard. From what I remember it'd pull 60 a lot more comfortably, and go a little faster on the flats, didn't really change speed up hills as you'd be WOT in 3rd doing the same speed you'd be doing in 4th before. The bike was never made for acceleration in the first place but it probably did suffer in that department

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrolburner View Post
Fixing one of these up for my roomate. Valves make a pretty loud racket, valve lash is said to be .05mm for intake and exhaust according to the label on the frame. When is that measured? TDC? How do I find TDC?
Realising this is replying to an old post here, but in case anybody else searches it up - the valvetrain on these bikes are supposed to be rattly. When I first got my CM200T it had almost 0 valve clearance, set it properly and it made such a racket it scared the shit out of me and I took it to a bike shop - the guy theres reply was 'those bikes were always noisy, don't worry about it and ride it '
Can't remember exactly how to find TDC, but it's 360 degrees apart for each cylinder, if your tappets feel loose and the ol' screwdrive in the plug hole confirms it you've probably got TDC. I think there was a dot on the cam chain sprocket, will see if I've still got a picture.


Note the dot on the sprocket


Another edit

Parts availability for these bikes are amazing, check here -
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cm_200_tb/83-84/
Or here for 79 - 81
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cm_200_ta/79-82/

Pretty much anything else you need you can find on eBay
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DisorganizedVince screwed with this post 12-22-2013 at 06:11 AM
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:09 PM   #56
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i have looked and didnt see, what is the air fuel screw ( has a cap on it) setting once its bottomed out? how many turns out? This is the one front buttom of the fuel bowl.

on the right side of the carb is a brass screw with a spring, how many turns out once its bottomed for a baseline? this is idle screw?
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:50 PM   #57
JerryH
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I know for a fact those engines are bulletproof, unless you've got armor piercing rounds. I tried for some time to kill a Rebel 250, rode it WOT for thousands of miles, didn't faze it. I wish they would bring the CM250 back. Or the early '80s Suzuki GS250. They are much better bikes than any 250 street bike out there today.

As with any old Japanese bike, parts are a problem. Some of the more common parts are available, but try finding internal engine parts, gaskets, carb and air filter parts, etc.
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