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Old 03-27-2007, 08:01 PM   #46
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Laugh Creel to Batopilas - The Road to Samachique

We left Creel at 8:30. The road from Creel to Samachique started off a bit like any other "road through the hills," but after the first 20 miles or so, it turns into the most amazing, most scenic, twistiest, bestest, superlative-est motorcycling road I've ever ridden.
Don't tell Gustavo I said that. Tell him I said it was a pleasant and scenic road in fairly decent condition.
OK, maybe it's not as twisty as we would later find on El Espinozo del Diablo, but there is very little traffic on this one.

Oh, and for Tony, sorry about leaving you back in time... I have to get this done, or I will never get back to work due to friends and relatives asking "where are the pictures"

Anyway we rode to Samachique and got some gas. Some pictures I took on the way:
The road goes down this canyon, crosses the river, and climbs out the other side. Can you see the road cut on the ridge ahead?

More ridges and road-cuts:


28 seconds later:

Warning - Curves Ahead:

A partial panorama from what seemed to be the highest point on the road:

(click for high-res)
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:35 PM   #47
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The Road to Samachique

Every good ride has to start with a decent breakfast. The one at Hotel Paraiso del Bosque was good to give us the energy needed for the ride into the canyon.

We promptly got on the road around 8:30 (yeah, early risers we are... ).

You can ride on the most remote roads in Mexico, but you are always guaranteed to run into some tienda selling food and drink:

The road to Samachique would be worth a ride by itself for any street riders:

Brian enjoying some curves:

Oops. Road hazards:

Noel surfing the curves:

I'm not so sure it's as much fun in a truck:

Rio Urique canyon:

Raramuri (those who run fast in their language) used to hunt deer by chasing it to exhaustion. Today they play this game in which they chase a small wooden ball over incredibly long distances, like these kids where playing when they ran by me:

Young Raramuri in traditional dress:

Tony surfing the curves:

More from the road to Samachique:



One of the Urique tributaries:

No, it really never ends... :


Hey, we even took some breaks to see the scenery at a slower pace:

and before you know it (or 3 hours or so - hardly record breaking pace, we stopped way too many times to take pictures, observe the view, etc.. You'd think we had never seen
"a pleasant and scenic road in fairly decent condition" that goes through a river valley before... ) we got to the Batopilas turnoff.


Gustavo screwed with this post 03-28-2007 at 08:40 AM
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:36 PM   #48
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Laugh Creel to Batopilas - The dirt portion

The DL got a bit tired and had to lie down for a minute. We'd only gone a few miles on the dirt, and we found some more construction crews spreading truck-loads of fist-sized rocks on the road, probably to cover up some fairly silty areas. I ran a little wide out of a hair-pin turn, thought I had it made, and suddenly the front wheel jumped into the ditch and down I went.
The crash bars did their job well, and the only damage was some scratches on the fairing.

I more or less hopped off the bike, but managed to pull/jam my thumb a bit. Fortunately it didn't really bother me after that day.
Noel stopped and helped me pick up the bike, but didn't bother to take a picture.
Eventually the road covers several miles of plateau, then begins to descend along a tributary into the Copper Canyon (Barranca Cobre).
Our first view, looking down the tributary:

As you get into the canyon proper, it becomes clear by looking down that you have a long way to go. How many miles of twisty dirt road can you see or infer from this pic?

Plus, you might notice that it's a little bit steep

We all made a lot of camera stops on the descent down to the bridge in the picture above. As you get part way down the hill, you start getting a sense of just how big this canyon is.

Noel taking a picture:

This descent part of the road is/was fairly well graded, and there was a tour bus that we passed. After the bus packed up all its passengers, it started flying down the hill. I hesitate to imagine how many people in that bus got car-sick -- bouncing, twisting, and dropping elevation

Gustavo and Tony:

Tony rounding a particularly tight corner:

Again, more pics at the WebShots album -- we all snapped a lot.
I think it took us a couple hours to go the 8 or so most scenic miles. I remember thinking that for day four of 11 days of riding, this trip was completely amazing, and I couldn't imagine how my brain could absorb another 7 days of scenery like this. Remember, this canyon is bigger than the Grand Canyon, and you can't ride your moto to the bottom of the Grand Canyon
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:03 PM   #49
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This is where I hope Tony will chime in, as soon as he recovers from the small computer disaster he experienced upon his return home, because he had a lot of very good pics.

The first few miles start innocently enough with a well graded run through the forest:

Brian, post Wee-Strom nap:




Looking into the Urique canyon:

Yup, that white line at the bottom is the road to Batopilas:

Tony on the road:

I need a better lens - that's Brian down below:

And that other dot is Tony:

Somewhere between this last picture and the next one, I caught up to Noel. I figured instead of eating dust for the next few miles, why not stop and take a few pictures while he gets some distance down the road? It was a good plan, not so well executed. I put my right foot down, so I could extend the side stand, but instead of terra firma I found some little stones that didn't want to support my weight... Tony was quick with the camera to document this event (yes, he took the pic first and only later came over to help pick the bike up).

Noel crossing the Urique river:

Brian not looking where he is going... :

That, actually, is probably the most common reason people crash on this road. The scenery is so striking, it's hard to keep your mind focused on the road ahead.



The Urique is low on water this time of the year:

Tony admiring the view:

My camera ran out of juice after this, so I have no pictures of the return leg. If it had any juice left in it, I would have taken a picture of the Suburban that almost ran over me just before La Bufa. It was on a narrow section of road, he was cutting the left hander (to him, right hander to me) very sharply, I was on my far right, but it wasn't wide enough for us to go side by side like that. I stopped one foot shy of his bumper.

When we got back to Creel, most of the MotoAventuras crew had arrived already, so we went out for dinner at Tio Molcas' in Creel:

The restaurant was full when we walked in, but most of the tourists cleared out soon after we arrived. I don't think the events were related...

There was a small group of riders from Seattle, we gave them some tips, and chatted about bikes and riding in Mexico. Then a local band showed up, and well, I just had to steal this one from Quique - Noel and the band:

Yes, it was a great dinner.


Gustavo screwed with this post 06-17-2007 at 08:51 PM
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:32 PM   #50
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Wicked Creel to Batopilas - The dirt portion continued

Finally we got down to the bridge and crossed the river. How many pictures of this bridge are here on AdvRider?

It was much warmer at the bottom of the canyon than it had been at the top. With the slow speeds and all the dust, I would have jumped into the cool green water, but it didn't look like there was anywhere to get back out!

There is another bridge shortly after the main one, crossing a tributary:

Both of these bridges have "car track" boards lying lengthwise over fairly uneven cross-members. It's not hard to ride over unless you worry about it

We stopped less on this side of the river, partly because we were all getting dehydrated and/or hungry. I did stop when I saw a wrecked car down the hill:

No, you can't see it very well. It's that red stuff behind the greener of the foreground bushes. You can also see a trail on the other side of the river used by the Raramuri. There were trails winding all through the canyon. Where they met the road, sometimes it seemed there was an informal bus stop. I even saw an old Blazer parked next to one. Now that would be a heck of a commute to anywhere!

A nice road cut:

As you turn a corner in the canyon, it gets a bit greener:

But there are still some imposing cliffs:

Finally, the bridge back across the river to Batopilas:

View back the way we came from near the bridge:

Batopilas was a surprisingly (to me) large town. We arrived apparently shortly after school was let out, and there were easily 200 kids walking down the street as we rode through. Many smiled and waved, but a few tried to play dirty tricks, and one even threw a rock at Gustavo. Tony stopped to take a picture of the bridge, and when he didn't respond to some requests for pesos, one of them tried to grab his tail pack. This was a very different response than we got anywhere else, and I wonder why.

Anyway, we went to a hotel near the plaza and across from the cathedral and had some lunch. Us gringos were hot and dehydrated, and wanted to eat light. Noel had an appetite, though, and polished off a big plate of ribs. Gustavo or Tony have a picture of our table with 15 empty soda bottles and cans between the 4 of us.

Somewhat rested and restored, but still hot, we resolved to take only a few pictures on the way back out, and it took us only about 2 hours to get out (versus the 3+ we spent coming down).

Here's the opposing view from that road cut above:

And a gnarly tree determined to survive right beside the road:

And Gustavo riding past some goats

No, the camera didn't quite focus correctly for this one, which is too bad. In addition to the goats, you can see how sharp some of the curves are, and a little road buttress.

We stopped again for gas in Samachique. Then we had to ride that darn twisty road back to Creel. Shucks, them's the breaks.

It started getting dark for the last few miles, and I caught up with Noel. He has quite a lighting system on his BMW, and I was happy to be following him into town.
When we arrived back at the hotel at about 6:30 (yes, 10 hours is a pretty long day for 180 miles) it looked like a BMW R1x00GS club had taken over the parking lot. The MotoAventuras guys have arrived in force: 12 or so of them. While I'm feeling a bit wiped out from partial dehydration with some heat exhaustion symptoms, these guys are ready to party! You know, tequila is a liquid.
Well, I balanced out the tequila by drinking a liter of water in about 15 minutes -- wow, I'm going to have to find a way to carry more than the ~2 liters I drank each way.

After meeting most of the MotoAv guys and getting my Guatemala shot glass, my Dominican Republic shot glass, and my MotoAventuras hat, we headed to the town party spot for dinner.

Ruben (red and white shirt) really knows how to be the life of the party, and Noel was not far behind him. Look out Creel, the MotoAventuras are here!
I was a bit slow that night, but really enjoyed getting to know all of them. I felt like I really connected with some of them the next night, despite my poor spanish speaking. Most of them speak somewhat better english than I speak spanish, but I do understand a fair amount of spanish, so while I didn't always pick up the details of the conversations, I could usually get the basic gist.

Overall it was a truly amazing day.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:26 PM   #51
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Yet more copper canyon pics

Long day into the Copper Canyon, basically an easy dirt road but long and some mentally focusing drop-offs where it would be bad to mess up. Here are a few more pics.

Next time: #1 go in same route from Samachique but stay overnight in Batopilas. #2 take the SXC and have a crack at the river crossing
and the road out via Urique. Talking to the guys at Badlands racing when I was getting the new rear put on in Las Cruces, this way back
out they claimed would "break the pipes off a V-Strom". Hmmn, I know just who to bring along ....

Start off with some pics of Chihuahua 25 from Creel to Samachuque - very cool paved road, kind of like a 35 mile version of the Rattlesnake Grade
but with better pavement and no gravel:


Gustavo navigates the curves:

Gustavo running just too fast for the camera to keep up with

Yet another pic of the paved stuff:

RIGHTY-O. Copper Canyon pics, never seen before, ever, on AdvRider so be sure to pay full attention

I tried to look up "guard rail" in my English-Mexican dictionary but all it said was "no translation exists" ....

Another pic from the same stretch:

View of the road twisting it's way down:

And another one:


This bus cracked me up. No way I'd have wanted to be in there for 2 hours riding over those potholes trusting my life to the driver.
Plus he was flying. I passed him without realizing his taste for speed. Stopped briefly to take a pic in the middle of the road and the next thing I know
all I can see in my mirrors is BUS.

Pic of the last car which stopped in front of that bus driver:

More pics of the dirt road:

This'll teach you for taking that pic of me scratching my nuts.

Gusty asks: "Where does this bit go again?"

Yep, rubber side is down now:

More pics of the views:

Cool Saguaro:

Finally Batopilas. The kids that greeted us in the town had clearly heard about Brian's sticker fetish as they tried to rip anything
they could off my bike as I went by.

Where we stopped for lunch. Weird that a town of (what, ~1000 people?) is served by this one tiny road.

More pics of Batopilas:

It was hot and I didn't have much of an appetitie but Noel, being clearly pregnant, was eating for at least two, if not all of us:

Square just out from the restaurant. Saw a cool 640A not far from here.

Riding back out of town:

More pics of the road:

Burro, no sign of it's owner:

Gustavo crossing the second of the two bridges (first on the return route):

Most of the road was easy gravel but a few parts where they'd blown out t the road was slightly bumpier, not an issue for the superior suspension of the Katoom

Gustavo pays homage to previously mentioned superiority:

Back at the Pemex. Gusty, thats the air hose, don't you need the pressure washer?

crazybrit screwed with this post 03-27-2007 at 10:56 PM
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:19 AM   #52
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Bummer, great thread, but I am getting s instead of photos in some places.

It looks a darn sight greener than when we were there in January.

Edit ... must have been my link ... I went to get coffee and come back to photos! Whoo Hooo!
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Good roads bring bad people
Bad roads bring good people
we are NOT human beings having a spiritual experience, rather we ARE spiritual BEINGS having a human experience - johnjen
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Old 03-28-2007, 04:12 PM   #53
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So the night before the Motoventuras guys had been out hard on the sauce while we were tucked up in bed drinking our Horlicks. As a result most were nowhere to be seen the next morning (modulo a couple who decided to ride down to Batopilas).

Here is a pic of the Hotel at Creel (spaced on it's name, Gustavo will have to chime in), nice place, clean modern rooms and well priced. Right off the main street with well sheltered parking. Way too many of the wrong bike parked there tho.

We decided to go easy in the AM (ok, the entire day) and explore Creel some in the daylight. Here is a pic of the main commercial district (highway 25 running through it).

This horse was wandering around the streets looking lost. I guess when human life isn't worth that much, animals are a few pegs even lower but I must admit I found this hard to deal with. Lots of stray dogs too, many with badly damaged limbs presumably from being hit by traffic. I wanted to find someone in the area that cared for stray animals and make a donation but didn't see anywhere.

Couple of pics of the actual main street in Creel. There was an actual US style coffee shop called the Sierra Coffeehouse that I wanted to go to but it was never open in the AM or after 8, we did see it open once around 7. Clearly US style but Mexican style

I got a t-shirt and some postcards and we headed back to the hotel trying to find the laundtry. I thought this guy had expired but he was just taking a rest.

Eventually we found the laundry on the commercial street (basically across from the hotel) in the back of the pharmacy. They charge by the pound, we left a large bag of 4 peoples clothes (lot easier than carrying 2 weeks worth). Gusty will chime in with what it cost, wasn't much. They always came out really clean too, much better than I can do at home (and yes, I do use soap ).

After we got back and woke up all the MotoVenturas guys we headed out for a short ride to the Copper Canyon overlook at Divisadero.

Lots of people selling their wares. Cool sleeping puppy that I just had to wake up.

Divisadero is actually a railway station also. Apparantly it's popular with US RVers to drive down into central mexico and then hop the train over to the West coast. Having ridden the roads I'm glad all these blue haired old RVers decided to ride the train This particular train had been sitting in Creel for the two previous evenings allowing the people to spend some time there but had left early in the morning. It was waiting at Divisadero when we arrived. A passenger train (complete with the largest number of roof mounted AC units I'd seen and very official looking conductors) also came through while we were waiting.

Where there are tourists there is food, I had a couple of cheese gorditas. Good but Brian and Gustavo found another place who did potato/pepper ones which I think would have been even better. These were pretty good though, 10 pesos ($1) each.

Obligatory pic of the bikes:

Perched on the rim is the Hotel Divisadero which was a very cool place. Rooms looked great too and not bad prices at all.

Anyways, it had been a few minutes since the MotoVenturas guys last had a drink so they had to get back to it

Sofa with a view.

Complete with humming bird feeders

After this we dragged the MotoVenturas guys back onto the bikes and headed a couple miles down a dirt road to another overview where Gustavo tried to do the obligatory AdvRider pose but forgot about raising his other leg.

We went back to Creel for some gas. When we had arrived it was totally closed but they had one pump open. The rest apparantly had been shut down by the inspectors who caught the owners underpumping. This station also won the award for the skankiest bathroom which is quite an accomplishment.

After this we headed a few miles out of Creel to a small settlement

The poverty was pretty hard to deal with. Lots of people begging for 1 or 2 pesos. This mother and her daughter seems more oblivious to us, making things to sell and talking to one another.

From here we went down the road and ran into a local running an impromptu toll gate (wire across the road). Brian and I thought about hopping the dirt and going around but we paid the 10 pesos and headed on thru to Valle de los Monjes. I believe it's also referred to colloquially as Bisabírachi or “Valley of the Erect Penises".

From here we headed home. Dinner the first night, was, thanks to Noel really awesome. It was decided that the Best Western would be able to accomodate us but after waiting there for an hour we got fed up (we had breakfast there in the morning and were similarly unimpressed) so we went on to another place (forget the name) but great food and conversation. Plus more drinks for the MotoVenturas guys. Ok, maybe I had one or three also Maybe Brian has some good pics of the house speciality which was served in the stone bowls.

crazybrit screwed with this post 03-28-2007 at 04:21 PM
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:02 PM   #54
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Around Creel

After a long day of riding to Batopilas and back, it was time to take it a little easier for the day. That, and many of the MotoAventuras guys were not that interested in going to Batopilas, so I came up with a plan to do some scenic and easy riding that would give us more socializing time. As Tony mentioned, he is an early riser compared to the rest of that gang (note: I didn't share the room with him in Creel, so I am absolutely not responsible for him waking up early ), so we used the time to walk around Creel.

Yes, way too many of those funny bikes with the opposing jugs on MotoAventuras:

Hector came to Creel from Guatemala, he was not going home without a trip to Batopilas. He talked Oscar into joining him, but they didn't get Johan that day:

Hector ready to ride:

Oscar was ready for Batopilas too:

RV Fantasy Tour. Fine with me as long as they stay on the train and off the roads... :

Lots of animals on the streets in Creel:

Creel construction worker:

Same horse, different street:

Tony's ADVRider salute. I suspect the Best Western had something to do with it:

Brian was still optimistic that it'll get better. It didn't. The Best Western is not my kind of place. Expensive (for Creel) and the service is not as good as it is at many less pretentious places:

It is a nice looking place, though:

Creel's post office:

Kids in Creel:

In Mexico, you are not safe from being run over by any cars, including the police:

Stocking up on water and snacks for the road:

How many riders does it take to fix a flat? Enrique and his "assistants"

And so, at about 11 or so, we finally headed out to Divisadero:

Is he giving me the ADVRider salute?

The road to Divisadero:

Road crew:

Fantasy RV Tour Crew:

MotoAventuras at El Divisadero:

Raramuri handcrafts:

This is one of Noel's pet-peeves - it's easier to find a soda in remote areas than it is to find bottled water and kids get used to drinking sodas from a very young age:

Hotel Divisadero Barrancas:

As usual, bikes attract kids:

Like moths to the light :

Raramuri girl:

The souvenir shops at Divisadero:

Brian enjoying some gorditas:

Tony and the Chepe:


Tony and Brian:

Enrique and JoseLuis shopping? Just looking?

When I couldn't see any of the guys outside, I figured I'd find them at the hotel bar:

Rio Urique canyon:

All rooms at the Divisadero hotel have views of the canyon:

Tony enjoying the views from the guest area (before we got kicked out ):

It took a while to heard the cats, but we finally managed to get them all out and ready to go to the next spot - Piedra Volada:

The views from Piedra Volada:

They kept telling me - one more step back, one more, one...

The views into the canyon:

Johan exploring:

Before we could continue, we needed to refuel. It was the first time I tried to get gas in Creel since we got there. It turns out the station is now partially open, only one pump available, as punishment for scamming customers through ill-calibrated pumps. Obviously, they were showing more gas going through than actually was and thus overcharging.

We started the second loop by visiting the San Ignacio mission. The mission dates from the early 1600s, built by the Spaniards to "civilize" the natives.

El Guero was on a borrowed R12RT and opted to get a ride from Brian in that section:


The San Ignacio mission:

News Flash!!!!!

Yamaha has a new entry in the Adventure Touring market:

(available for rent in Creel)

Raramuri girls:

There was a celebration going on on the back side of the mission, so I went to investigate. It turns out they were celebrating the day of the governor. The tesguino was flowing like water and it was showing on many of the participants... They were nice enough to let me sit there and look at the ceremony, but it didn't seem appropriate to take pictures, so I didn't.

We continued on the the Valle de los Hongos (valley of the mushrooms):

Raramuri houses near Valle de los Hongos:

MotoAventuras Gang:

From Valle de los Hongos, we went in search of Bisabirachi, officially known in Spanish as Valle de los Monjes, but it literally translates into valley of the erect penises.

On the way there we had this small water crossing:


Brian making a splash:

So is Noel:

Tony was too fast for me:


On the return trip I was following a Jeep that was not keeping a good pace. I got close in one of my attepts to pass him, and suddenly, in the cloud of dust he was leaving a cow appeared. I had a cow myself at that moment, but luckily, the cow and I understood each other, it kept to its side and I to mine. I decided that it wasn't that important to get by him, I'd rather wait until the dust clears and I can see the road...

Back at the hotel, we noted again, there were way too many of those other bikes there:

Tony quickly got the rags out and proceeded to polish his trailer queen :

We wanted to go to dinner at the Best Western (no, we couldn't convince them that after our experience that morning, it wasn't a good choice). The restaurant was full, but we were told that it would take about half an hour. We settled in the bar and quickly our attention was set on the championship matches there:

Things got a little intense, these guys (and that crazy british guy too) take their soccer way too seriously (even when it's not real soccer ):

We had to send the Mexican ref to keep everybody under control:

Finally, we got tired of waiting and moved to the restaurant at El Parador de la Montaña.

There, a surprisingly familiar face was the waiter:

Ruben isn't shy. He quickly took charge of the food (and more importantly drink) deliveries to help the waitresses cope with the large group.

Chips and salsa (and some beers ) are enough to keep these guys happy:

Brian (with his molcajete)and Tony enjoying their food:

Getting to Creel's main street from the hotel was an adventure when the RV train was in town, it blocked the shortcut to the hotel. We hoped over the rail cars on our way out and on our way in:


Gustavo screwed with this post 03-28-2007 at 08:58 PM
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:07 PM   #55
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Thanks for sharing a great report. Copper Canyon has always been on my list of trips to do. Thanks for taking the time to stop and capture some of those scenic views . Nice job.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:29 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by GSPD750
Thanks for sharing a great report. Copper Canyon has always been on my list of trips to do. Thanks for taking the time to stop and capture some of those scenic views . Nice job.
+1, great report.
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:23 AM   #57
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Creel to Durango

Alright, we've been to Creel, took a ride down to Batopilas, had good times with the MotoAventuras guys (even Brian and Tony seemed to enjoy those, despite a slight language barrier) and drank lots of tequila (well, at least those who drink more than I do) and I mean lots but it was time to see a bit more of Mexico (yes, there is more to Mexico than the Barranca del Cobre, even though it may not be obvious from reading ADVRider... ).

This day was going to a mixed day. The early part back on that fabulous road that goes past the Batopilas turn off to Guachochi and on to Parral. That's almost all mountain roads, and in Mexico are almost guaranteed to be good (the only exception would be the actual condition of the pavement). Then from Parral south to Durango it's long, mostly straight roads that run up in the highlands.

We had to get gas first, but the Creel station is still limited to a single pump. Brian noticed that he had lost one of the screws that holds the right Givi in place. Luckily, he had a top case position he could mount it to, but that left the bike unbalanced, making him keep a constant pressure on the opposite bar end to keep the bike going straight:

On the road to Guachochi:

That's a single room house on the left side of the road:

There was this Wee-Strom that stalked me all the way there:

Curves, curves and more curves:

I know most people dream about roads like this, but it's a long way to Parral (and even longer to Durango), and despite the fact that we were having a good time, we weren't making that good a time, our average speed was only 40 mph, this would become a problem later in the day.

Meanwhile, we were enjoying the views of the Urique canyon:

When you ride into Guachichi, which sits on this huge plateau, you may be thinking you've already made your way down the mountain, but nothing could be further from the truth. Guachochi is at a higher elevation than Creel, close to 2450m (or just over 8000 ft.), so there is still a long ways to descend to Parral. This, of course, is good for the curves, not so good for the pace...

The road from Guachochi to Parral:

It's all good until you hit MEX-24 (which one day will run all the way to the coast). Here it becomes obvious that the state of Chihuahua (which was in charge of all those fabulous roads we had just ridden) makes a much better job at keeping the roads in good condition than the federal government. This road was pot hole central. Granted, it sees a lot more traffic than the Creel-Guachochi road, but it hasn't had any maintenance in years.

On the road to Parral:

We had a very good lunch in Parral. It took a while to find a restaurant that would cater to vegetarian adventurers, but we managed to find a very nice place (whose name, of course, I didn't write down, sorry ) that seemed to be popular with the locals for family gatherings on weekends. While lunch was good, it took almost an hour. Mistake number two for the day.

We headed out of Parral on MEX-45 to Durango. Most of the towns along the way are completely unremarkable, with this one exception, which IIRC, is Villa Matamoros:

We made it to Crucero La Zarca when it was time to get gas again. I had not paid much attention in the past to which gas stations offer only Magna and which ones offer Premium since the V-Strom runs on just about anything, but the KTM needs Premium to make it's measly ~80 HP so we tried to stop at Pemex stations that offered both. Crucero La Zarca isn't one of those station. You can get as much Magna or Diesel as you want, it seems nobody uses Premium around here (it wasn't teh first time we saw no Premium at a station). Luckily, those Austrians know their limitations and have provided a way to quickly retard the timing to avoid auto-ignition due to the low octane fuel. Tony had become really goos at this point at pulling the seat, disconnecting the wires and being ready to roll.

Crucero La Zarca:

After the bikes were full, it was time to fill our water too:

This looked to be the hottest game in town:

It seemed like the old guy was cleaning them out:

We got back on the road, but it started getting dark when we still had over an hour to go to Durango. I have ridden this road before by myself, and I guess all the stops really do add up. There isn't much in that last stretch, so we decided to continue on to Durango. When we got to Durango Tony and Brian pointed out to me that the pace after dark was way too fast for their liking (they were right ). Unfortunately, we didn't talk about that as it got dark. I kept a pace that was comfortable for me, I should have stopped to ask how they were doing before we got to Durango...

Traffic in Durango was heavy as usual. It took a while to make our way to the city center hotel, but we got there around 7:30.

Av. 20 de Noviembre and Durango's cathedral:


Gustavo screwed with this post 03-29-2007 at 01:23 PM
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:12 AM   #58
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The night shot of the cathedral is beautiful!!!

Tony Eeds aka Teeds - Proud member of the Peanut Gallery and the Pajama Economy
Good roads bring bad people
Bad roads bring good people
we are NOT human beings having a spiritual experience, rather we ARE spiritual BEINGS having a human experience - johnjen
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:50 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Gustavo
When we got to Durango Tony and Brian pointed out to me that the pace after dark was way too fast for their liking (they were right ). Unfortunately, we didn't talk about that as it got dark. I kept a pace that was comfortable for me, I should have stopped to ask how they were doing before we got to Durango...
Mostly things like seeing the donkeys too late and passing them on the side of the road still doing 40mph. Fortunately, they are more predictable than deer but I'm always concious of (as described here last year) Claytons mishap on the KLR650 in Acapulco
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Old 03-29-2007, 03:06 PM   #60
kinda slow
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Awesome pics!!!
What a great route!!
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