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Old 03-29-2007, 01:05 PM   #31
ChrisC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njgearhead
What a scam. If I had this model KTM i'd want my money back.
Yeah... fuck.... I want my money back too ....
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Old 03-30-2007, 05:02 AM   #32
bmwktmbill
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From Sommer...

This from Sommer KTM on kickstarting with reduced voltage:

"good morning,

starting (kick) an adventure 640 (or all LC4) with dead battery (reduced voltage / V) will be very, very hard, because you need full 12V Voltage (reduced ampere is allowed - so for example a little Volume 12 V battery (with 3 or 4...A) will work for kicking.

So you need 12 Volt .

Finally it is possible, but you have to kick a lot of time and if there is enough luck, you will get Voltage for first ( Zünderregung "ignition impulse") .

Mit sportlichen Grüßen
SOMMER KTM Rainer Kroll"
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:56 AM   #33
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Perhaps the capacitor is just there as a filter to shunt any noise (AC from the charging system ) to ground. This is probably the most common use of capacitors for electronics, not energy storage but for clean DC signal. It could be simply there to meet FCC requirements. (so you don't mess with peoples radios and such.)
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:03 PM   #34
Luke
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Problem solved!

Executive summary: Turn off your headlight.


This afternoon I decided to take a look at this problem. My bike is an '02 640 ADV, and I have never had any trouble kick starting it. My 'drill' is: turn it on and kick it. It usually takes 1-3 kicks to start. I had a theory about what the problem was which I won't share with you because I was able to prove it wrong.

Anyway, I disconnected the battery, turned off the headlights (HIDs) and it started on the third kick. After a little experimentation, I discovered that it won't start unless I start the kick at TDC. If I take the time to find TDC, it always starts. When I kick it the taillight and instrument cluster lights come on -for about a second if it doesn't start.

So what's the problem with everyone else's bike? Incandecent headlights, that's what. I hooked up the stock H1 bulb to the low beam and turned it on. The bike wouldn't start. No way. I got a slight orange glow out of the headlight filiment, and that's it.


So, If your battery is dead enough that the bike won't kick start, just turn off the headlight -or unplug it if you don't have a switch. You may also have to disconnect the battery (just unscrew the ground lead) - I don't know if a dead battery is too much of a load.


So now that I have the gist of things, what are the specifics? I measured the current in the +12V lead of the CDI box. It draws 55mA when the motor is stalled, and 150-175mA at idle. The current goes up when the motor revs, but I don't know how far, because my meter tops out at 200mA. This is less than 1/2 Watt.

I hooked up an external power supply to the +12V lead, and found that the CDI will work with a supply voltage as low as 5.3V.

I measured the +12V when I kicked the bike over, and found that the voltage was 9.5-11.8V with the taillight and instruments as a load, and dropped to 3.5-4.5V when a headlight was added to the load.

So basically, the kickstarter has more than enough power to fire the ignition, it just can't power the headlight as well.
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:58 PM   #35
gaspipe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
So basically, the kickstarter has more than enough power to fire the ignition, it just can't power the headlight as well.
Thanks, Luke. Time for those in the need to plumb in a master electrical switch.

We'll all be relieved to know that njgearhead can sleep soundly tonight.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:13 PM   #36
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
So basically, the kickstarter has more than enough power to fire the ignition, it just can't power the headlight as well.
Time for those in the need to plumb in a master electrical switch.
KISS! Retrofit a normal KTM headlight switch if your bike came without one.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:42 AM   #37
BlitzBike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf
KISS! Retrofit a normal KTM headlight switch if your bike came without one.

Got a part number on that "normal" KTM headlight switch?
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:54 PM   #38
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitzBike
Got a part number on that "normal" KTM headlight switch?
Munn Racing Online Parts Shopper
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:01 PM   #39
BlitzBike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf
I'm aware of that parts fische but,
that will only show me the american controls that have no "off" switch for the headlights. Need a specific part number.
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:07 PM   #40
Stu
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Headlight switch

Part Numbers:

head light switch CEV, p/n 503.110.70.000 (the Aussie part ends in .100)
flasher switch CEV, p/n 503.110.29.000

Make sure these come with (mine were in the two boxes with the above):
dummy plug (if you remove the flasher switch), p/n 583.110.64.000
2 hex nuts, p/n 0934.040.003
2 phillips head screws, p/n 0084.040.223
2 flat head screws, p/n 0985.040.163
plastic adapter for flash switch, p/n 130.110.70.060 (goes between two switch assemblies on handlebar).

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Old 04-02-2007, 04:44 PM   #41
BlitzBike
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Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL near Alligator Alley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu
Part Numbers:

head light switch CEV, p/n 503.110.70.000 (the Aussie part ends in .100)
flasher switch CEV, p/n 503.110.29.000

Make sure these come with (mine were in the two boxes with the above):
dummy plug (if you remove the flasher switch), p/n 583.110.64.000
2 hex nuts, p/n 0934.040.003
2 phillips head screws, p/n 0084.040.223
2 flat head screws, p/n 0985.040.163
plastic adapter for flash switch, p/n 130.110.70.060 (goes between two switch assemblies on handlebar).

Stu

Does the Aussie part that ends in .100 have an "off" position?
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:28 PM   #42
warewolf
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Cool2 OK, here 'tis

The Parts Book for my 2005 LC4 Adventure EU/AUS model lists part:
600.11.074.000 START-STOP SWITCH/LIGHT SW. 03 (START NOTAUS/LICHT EIN-AUS 03)
This is the complete switch block with wiring back to the connector, item #42. By cross-referencing in Munn's fiche, that returned the (USA?) 03 LC4A and the 06 EU/AUS/UK Adventures.

Interesting... I then drilled into the USA (presumably) 2003 LC4 Adventure Wiring Harness page, and found this:
600.11.074.100 START-STOP SWITCH 03
Note the .100 and the description difference.

Stu, are your part numbers for the switch internals to go into the switch block assembly?
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:31 PM   #43
Stu
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Wiring compatibility

No.

That said, I would add that I put one of these switches on a 2002 LC4 "hard enduro" with a straight plug in, one on a 625 SXC with a straight plug in and the last one, just installed, on a '07 525 EXC which also just plugged right in. All of the functions worked on all of the machines with the exception of the 525 where the kill switch had to be soldered into the existing wiring in order to have the stock kill switch on the right side and a second one in the CEV switch on the left. The color coding on the 525 and the CEV did not match at all but the functions were all the same (i.e., the horn, lights, turnsignals and off switch for lights all worked correctly.) The part numbers are the exact ones I used to order the older switch assembly in order to have the lights off position which I wanted.

In addition to the above the switch was much narrower on the handlebar that meant that the 525 clutch could be correctly positioned, impossible with the 950 Adventure switch that came on the 525. Also, this CEV switch could be positioned anywhere and locked down and didn't rotate on the bar. The Adventure switch had a plastic pin. If you filed it off the switch assembly rotated all over the place.

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Old 04-02-2007, 08:32 PM   #44
warewolf
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Ah, gotcha, cheers. You're talking about the typical EXC-series switch gear... very different kettle of fish to that on the Adventure. I can see all the bits you've mentioned in the Wiring Harness page for the 2003 200 EXC EU+AUS. Sometimes it's nice having a bike/books from each model series. I think between us we've covered all bases! Just for clarity...

EXC configuration: item #10 is the headlight, horn, kill switch (LHS switch block); #29 is the flasher switch, 30-31-32-33 necessary to bolt them together.


Adventure configuration: item #42 is the kill, headlight and starter switch (RHS switch block)
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:52 PM   #45
DUKE II
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What about this KTM switch assembly. Physically, looks the same as my Duke II, except for the headlight switch where a cover is located on mine, and no symbols. I would presume the connectors on the harness end would be the same???, or you could swap connector housings???

http://www.ktmtwins.com/950adventure/60011074000.html

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