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Old 04-03-2007, 10:13 AM   #1
hcmiller92 OP
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DR650SE alternator output?

2004. Anyone know what the output is? I'm riding with my Gerbings jacket on these chilly New England mornings and am unable to find specs published in my manual or anywhere online (Suzuki ashamed?). My Beemers have over 700 watts each, so there's no concern. I don't want to discharge my battery just because I want to stay warm.

Thank you!
Curt
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Old 04-03-2007, 10:20 AM   #2
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I suspect you'll be fine. I run a BMW heated vest + heated grips on my DR250SE and it maintains charge just fine, even at idle its right at 14v. If your really worried about it, check to see if it maintains voltage with all your stuff running - it will take you less time than it did to post here
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Old 04-03-2007, 10:33 AM   #3
hcmiller92 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
I suspect you'll be fine. I run a BMW heated vest + heated grips on my DR250SE and it maintains charge just fine, even at idle its right at 14v.
Great, thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
If your really worried about it, check to see if it maintains voltage with all your stuff running - it will take you less time than it did to post here
You're right. Good reality check, too.
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:44 AM   #4
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Double check me...

The DR650 manual that I was able to download shows that the output of factory stock generator as follows (See Ch 7-33 Servicing Information):

Generator no-load voltage = More than 75 V(AC) at 5,000 rpm.
Generator Max. output = Approx. 200W @ 5,000 rpm.

also provided are wattages of stock items such as headlight, stop turn & tails...

Headlight Hi/Lo = 60/55
Tail/Brake = 5/21
Turn Signal = 21 (I presume this is front and rear combined)
Speedo = 3
Turn signal indicator = 2
High beam indicator = 2
Neutral = 2
License plate light = 5

So just at idle your bike is eating somewhere between 68 and 121 watts right off the top. Check the load of your heated grips and clothing, and I would guess that you exceed the factory "approximation" of max output at 5,000 rpm.

Depending upon the condition of your generator, the status of the generator coil, load resistance from the wire harness, etc, you could rapidly put your bike into a negative draw situation and run the battery flat.

I learned my lesson on long downhill canyon descent, running the bike in too high of a gear (no engine braking and low revs), on the brakes, aux driving lights, heated grips and vest all running, my bike was barely running by the bottom of the canyon. Had to shut off everything spare and wind the bike up a bit just to get 'er running strong again.

Good luck!
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Old 04-03-2007, 02:48 PM   #5
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If you're going to use all that stay-warm stuff, you might want to wire in a switch to shut off your headlight. I never run my Warm&Safe more than about 25% or so. I think it would drain the battery if it ran at 100%.
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:47 AM   #6
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So, if i'm thinkin about adding two piaa lights to my dr, wired to the headlight, what's about the maximum wattage i could get away with? i'm not looking for anything huge, but two small driving light types would be nice.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirForceDirt
So, if i'm thinkin about adding two piaa lights to my dr, wired to the headlight, what's about the maximum wattage i could get away with? i'm not looking for anything huge, but two small driving light types would be nice.
35w is about as low as auxiliary lights go, like a Motolight....and they're mostly for visibility (for you to be seen) than they are for you seeing stuff in the dark.
55w of course, is pretty common - and you can get +50 bulbs that put out more lumens for the same current draw.

TrailTech makes some nice little HID's w/ self contained ballast. The smallest draw only 13w each, they're available in spot and flood, cost about $135 ea, and are (IMO) the ideal solution if you're going to augment your std. lighting and don't have tons of headroom on your stator output.
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:49 PM   #8
timack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tramontana
The DR650 manual that I was able to download shows that the output of factory stock generator as follows (See Ch 7-33 Servicing Information):

Generator no-load voltage = More than 75 V(AC) at 5,000 rpm.
Generator Max. output = Approx. 200W @ 5,000 rpm.

also provided are wattages of stock items such as headlight, stop turn & tails...

Headlight Hi/Lo = 60/55
Tail/Brake = 5/21
Turn Signal = 21 (I presume this is front and rear combined)
Speedo = 3
Turn signal indicator = 2
High beam indicator = 2
Neutral = 2
License plate light = 5

So just at idle your bike is eating somewhere between 68 and 121 watts right off the top. Check the load of your heated grips and clothing, and I would guess that you exceed the factory "approximation" of max output at 5,000 rpm.

Depending upon the condition of your generator, the status of the generator coil, load resistance from the wire harness, etc, you could rapidly put your bike into a negative draw situation and run the battery flat.

I learned my lesson on long downhill canyon descent, running the bike in too high of a gear (no engine braking and low revs), on the brakes, aux driving lights, heated grips and vest all running, my bike was barely running by the bottom of the canyon. Had to shut off everything spare and wind the bike up a bit just to get 'er running strong again.

Good luck!
G'day. Do these numbers apply to an '08SE? I've got one and am considering removing the stock headlight and replacing with an HID kit. Well' not me personally, I wouldn't know what the hell I was doing. But I am keen to get someone else who knows about this stuff to do it. So if anyone can tell me, in fact if anyone has done it, then it would be great to hear form them.

Cheers,
Tim
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:23 AM   #9
Jud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tramontana
The DR650 manual that I was able to download shows that the output of factory stock generator as follows (See Ch 7-33 Servicing Information):

Generator no-load voltage = More than 75 V(AC) at 5,000 rpm.
Generator Max. output = Approx. 200W @ 5,000 rpm.

also provided are wattages of stock items such as headlight, stop turn & tails...

Headlight Hi/Lo = 60/55
Tail/Brake = 5/21
Turn Signal = 21 (I presume this is front and rear combined)
Speedo = 3
Turn signal indicator = 2
High beam indicator = 2
Neutral = 2
License plate light = 5

So just at idle your bike is eating somewhere between 68 and 121 watts right off the top. Check the load of your heated grips and clothing, and I would guess that you exceed the factory "approximation" of max output at 5,000 rpm.

Depending upon the condition of your generator, the status of the generator coil, load resistance from the wire harness, etc, you could rapidly put your bike into a negative draw situation and run the battery flat.

I learned my lesson on long downhill canyon descent, running the bike in too high of a gear (no engine braking and low revs), on the brakes, aux driving lights, heated grips and vest all running, my bike was barely running by the bottom of the canyon. Had to shut off everything spare and wind the bike up a bit just to get 'er running strong again.

Good luck!
Almost my experience as well.

I'm running a Tourmaster Vest and Symtec heated grips. First time I ran them together was one cold night up in the North Ga. Mountains. Temps ranged from around 30 degrees to as low as 18 degrees up on Brasstown Bald at night. I rode around for a couple of hours with the vest and gloves on high. Most of the time the headlights were on high {most of the time I had the headlight switch in the middle in oder to burn both the high and low beams at the same time} and remember,,, mountain roads have alot of curves so that brake lights was on quite a bit too.

Bottom line,,,, the power consumption of the vest and grip heaters overwhelmed my bike's charging system and I ended up having to jump it off. How others do it beats me but that is my experience. If I run either the grip heater or the vest on something other than high it does not happen. I have taken readings at the battery with a voltmeter while both were on high and I had less than 12 volts??????

I'm quite surprised that no one has come up with a HO stator for these dikes considering how many folks tend to mod them into dirt worthy touring bikes. I've contemplated LED brake and running lights along with a HID headlight as I do think that would free up enough wattage to fix my problem but regrettably I'm lazy and poor so no fix yet. I just don't run both on high anymore!

But hey,,, the DR is better than my wife's TW200. I deaded the battery on it simply by burning the high and low beams at the same time {light switch in the middle}. Thank godness it pushes off a hell of alot easier than the DR!!!!!
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