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Old 05-09-2007, 08:41 PM   #31
Genghis Swan
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Red River, New Mexico
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I carry this on my dirt bike and the big dual sport and I have used it countless times. Most memorable was when we fixed a broken gear shift lever with it and the fix lasted for two months until we replaced it with a new part. The fixed part never did break.
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:40 PM   #32
Raphy
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Location: Toronto, Canuckstan
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Looks like a good item to use on a Fenda Extenda (which i will order soon) instead of drilling through the actual fron fender of your bike... woo hoo!!!
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:21 AM   #33
Prodigium
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Location: Portland OR during school year. SW MI in summer
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Nuclear JB

In the Navy we used JB for all kinds of uses, even to repair valves in the reactors piping systems. I've used it successfully to repair radiators, one still going strong after 5 years. It is great stuff.
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Old 07-08-2007, 04:42 PM   #34
AZstrommer
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Location: Aridzona
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JB Weld and gas

Hey Inmates!

I just pulled a dumb one. I was using my dremel to grind a notch in a stuck/buggered float bowl screw and accidently ground a small hole in the float bowl! Next time I'll wear my damn glasses!

Think JB weld would work to seal the hole? I put some on the outside and a dab on the inside too in order to make it seal from both sides. Will the JB hold up in the float bowl?

Thanks!
Four-eyes AZ
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:32 PM   #35
KL5A
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The white gunk on the radiator is an Aquamend patch, it's the epoxy stick type putty, which worked perfectly to fix the hole in said radiator.



This happened 50 some miles from Tok, AK, on the Taylor Highway, which is a long damn walk to the nearest Wal_Mart. About 350 miles to the nearest Wal Mart, in fact. Not only did the stuff hold all the way back home, it was a slut to get off when it was time to get the radiator professionally repaired. In reality, I could have left it just like it was.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:57 AM   #36
harnois
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Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
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I've never used JB Weld to repair anything and I'd like to know something about using it for trail-side repairs. You guys using it to repair busted engine cases or radiators, how long are you waiting to ride again? Seem like even the "kwik" stuff requires hours of drying time. ?

Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:02 PM   #37
usgser
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Duct tape in a tube...never leave home without it.
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:42 AM   #38
Bigger Al
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Location: Auburn, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harnois
I've never used JB Weld to repair anything and I'd like to know something about using it for trail-side repairs. You guys using it to repair busted engine cases or radiators, how long are you waiting to ride again? Seem like even the "kwik" stuff requires hours of drying time. ?

Thanks!

JB Quik sets up pretty hard in about 5 minutes, and I wouldn't hesitate to put it to use in about a half-hour.
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:15 PM   #39
ShaftEd
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Location: San Diego, CA USA
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JB Stik after a rock encounter to the valve cover. Worked great.

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Old 09-27-2009, 11:30 AM   #40
Jef Miller
he broke it again
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Missouri, USA
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Do you think JB Weld can fix this?

Hey gang, got a fix for you:

The valve head cover bolts on the KLR are prone to stripping out/cross threading/etc. Sure enough, I stripped one. The repair is to heli coil it, which, sure enough, I put in crooked:


So I removed the cylinder head from the bike. I need to make this:


Work like this:


The plan is to remove the helicoil and drill out the hole a little bit. Then I can either take it to a weld shop and have them fill it with Al, or I can fill it with JB weld, put a helicoil in it and hopefully be done.

What do you think? I've JB'd before, but nothing that was threaded. I figure putting a coil in it would help it last.

PS I made a test with JB weld in Al pipe to try drilling/coiling after lunch
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:57 AM   #41
The Raven
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the liquid stuff sucks when stored with other tools....
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:46 PM   #42
showkey
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Wausau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jef Miller
Hey gang, got a fix for you:

The valve head cover bolts on the KLR are prone to stripping out/cross threading/etc. Sure enough, I stripped one. The repair is to heli coil it, which, sure enough, I put in crooked:


So I removed the cylinder head from the bike. I need to make this:


Work like this:


The plan is to remove the helicoil and drill out the hole a little bit. Then I can either take it to a weld shop and have them fill it with Al, or I can fill it with JB weld, put a helicoil in it and hopefully be done.

What do you think? I've JB'd before, but nothing that was threaded. I figure putting a coil in it would help it last.

PS I made a test with JB weld in Al pipe to try drilling/coiling after lunch
You need a TIMESERT

http://www.timesert.com/

A perfect application timesert, safer and cheaper than welding and retap. Timesert will be stronger than the original threads.
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:03 PM   #43
Jef Miller
he broke it again
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Missouri, USA
Oddometer: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by showkey
You need a TIMESERT
http://www.timesert.com/
A perfect application timesert, safer and cheaper than welding and retap. Timesert will be stronger than the original threads.
Those look cool
Videos watched, faq's read and bookmarked !
I'd still need to redrill or enlarge the hole, because it's crooked. Then I could use a "bigsert". I'm not sure if there will be enough base metal left to be strong for the cold-roll thing the Timeserts seem to do. There's already a possible crack in it and that's just from the helicoil racket :/
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:43 PM   #44
RedRocket
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If the threads of the Heli-coil are strong why don't you just grind the shoulder of the cover a little bit to match the screw. After all, it is a KLR . Actually I once had a similar situation, and did just what I described. It worked out just fine.
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Old 09-28-2009, 05:50 AM   #45
Jef Miller
he broke it again
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Missouri, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRocket
If the threads of the Heli-coil are strong why don't you just grind the shoulder of the cover a little bit to match the screw. After all, it is a KLR . Actually I once had a similar situation, and did just what I described. It worked out just fine.
Sounds good to me. Reminds me of an idea I had to modify the rubber washer with a belt sander. Your idea's better though, I'll post how it goes.
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