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Old 02-26-2014, 09:22 AM   #1
dwj - Donnie OP
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Radiator Temperature Sensor

Hi!

I have a second cooling fan on my 2010 990 Adventure, so over heating is not a problem. My question is will the sensors that lower the running temp of the engine by 30 degrees in some way allow the engine to run better. I have read that claim. If so, how will it help and why did it not have it from the factory? I think I have read that the cats in the mufflers need the additional heat. My moto has FMFs, so there is no cats. Thanks!

Donnie
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:58 AM   #2
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dwj,

The thermostat should regulate to its designed setting, around 180F if I recall. That should display as 4 bars. The 2nd fan adds mass flow of air to cool the motor when bike speeds are low, and will really help when climbing stuff in low gear, which keeps you from going to 5/6 bars.

The bike will usually cool itself OK once you get back above about 25/27 MPH, all other things being equal.

Thermally speaking the bike is designed to run at a near-constant temperature. This keeps pistons, jugs and clearances from shrinking/growing too much, and keeps the oil viscosity at what it was designed for, one of the advantages of water cooled motors.

Overcooling by driving the temp down means the motor is running below its design temp. Yeah, it can do it, but it means heat you paid for to push the piston went to the radiator instead. It is a fine/theoretical vs practial riding thing. You might see a small difference back to back dyno runs. Then again, I've seen my later dyno runs fade due to heat soaking the motor/heads (intake charge gets heated up). That can be allowed for with dyno experience.

Real world, just turn on fan2 and twist it!
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Hi!

I have a second cooling fan on my 2010 990 Adventure, so over heating is not a problem. My question is will the sensors that lower the running temp of the engine by 30 degrees in some way allow the engine to run better. I have read that claim. If so, how will it help and why did it not have it from the factory? I think I have read that the cats in the mufflers need the additional heat. My moto has FMFs, so there is no cats. Thanks!

Donnie

Hey Donnie,
The only temp sensor that the ECU listens to is the water sensor in the rear cylinder and a ambient air temp at the airbox. The temp switch that is threaded into the right radiator tank is just a thermo on/off switch to control the cooling fans. The OEM switch is set at 215F if I recall correctly, the after market one is ~200F. These are the 'on' temps, and once the switch is on it has to sense a downward temp of 20-25 degrees before it latches open again (off), otherwise it will stay latched on. What this means is the RADIATOR is at this temp, however the ENGINE coolant temp is regulated by the thermostat (for the most part).

I do not believe that you will see any significant improvement in standard performance, just running around or on a dyno. I believe that when the bike is really hot and things are tight, maximum cooling effort will provide a better running machine. The exhaust post processing (cats) couldn't care much less about the coolant temps... that IMO is internet snake oil
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAlien View Post
dwj,

The thermostat should regulate to its designed setting, around 180F if I recall. That should display as 4 bars. The 2nd fan adds mass flow of air to cool the motor when bike speeds are low, and will really help when climbing stuff in low gear, which keeps you from going to 5/6 bars.

The bike will usually cool itself OK once you get back above about 25/27 MPH, all other things being equal.

Thermally speaking the bike is designed to run at a near-constant temperature. This keeps pistons, jugs and clearances from shrinking/growing too much, and keeps the oil viscosity at what it was designed for, one of the advantages of water cooled motors.

Overcooling by driving the temp down means the motor is running below its design temp. Yeah, it can do it, but it means heat you paid for to push the piston went to the radiator instead. It is a fine/theoretical vs practial riding thing. You might see a small difference back to back dyno runs. Then again, I've seen my later dyno runs fade due to heat soaking the motor/heads (intake charge gets heated up). That can be allowed for with dyno experience.

Real world, just turn on fan2 and twist it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
Hey Donnie,
The only temp sensor that the ECU listens to is the water sensor in the rear cylinder and a ambient air temp at the airbox. The temp switch that is threaded into the right radiator tank is just a thermo on/off switch to control the cooling fans. The OEM switch is set at 215F if I recall correctly, the after market one is ~200F. These are the 'on' temps, and once the switch is on it has to sense a downward temp of 20-25 degrees before it latches open again (off), otherwise it will stay latched on. What this means is the RADIATOR is at this temp, however the ENGINE coolant temp is regulated by the thermostat (for the most part).

I do not believe that you will see any significant improvement in standard performance, just running around or on a dyno. I believe that when the bike is really hot and things are tight, maximum cooling effort will provide a better running machine. The exhaust post processing (cats) couldn't care much less about the coolant temps... that IMO is internet snake oil
Thanks guys! You have confirmed why I ask the question.
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:10 AM   #5
Zen Overland
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Lower temp sensor

Do you know who makes the lower temp radiator sensor, or have a part number?
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:54 AM   #6
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Hi Gabe

Don't know who the makes them but I got mine from Rally Raid Products UK....if that helps.

See ya

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Old 02-11-2015, 04:56 AM   #7
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http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...switch-ktm-690
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:07 AM   #8
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Top stuff

Spot on thanks very much. I'll give John a call
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Overland View Post
Do you know who makes the lower temp radiator sensor, or have a part number?
Good ol' Craigy boy does one too.

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Old 02-11-2015, 11:04 AM   #10
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I put the second fan on as well as the lower temperature switch. I commute and here it gets hot. I also run Engine Ice.
More better.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:22 AM   #11
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I bought that switch for $30 USD shipped from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:11 PM   #12
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That's the one

Great stuff, thanks very much folks.

fast4d, if that's the same spec (comes on 30 degrees F lower than stock) it's a bargain!
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:12 PM   #13
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Radiator Temperature Sensor

Hi Guys

I have a thermo switch which runs at 80-85 degrees and its a ktm part

83035045000

direct fit to my 990 adventure, never runs hot now

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Old 02-11-2015, 12:19 PM   #14
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2nd fan works great but...

I've been running the 2nd fan for 5 plus years and it's great at shedding the heat off the motor at various conditions. But I've had problems with the cooler thermo switches blowing. I've gone through two in the last couple years. My thought is it's cycling the fans earlier and more often and the constant double hit on the thermostat wears on the leads.

It would probably be a good idea to have a spare thermostat around on long rides. Yes you can hot wire the connection to get the fans turning but that constant fan hum would be annoying.

In servicing my bike recently I noticed my factory fan developed a resistance in the blade's spin. The factory zipties the small loom to the grill. And the head of the ziptie had rotated inside the grill and in the path of the blade, ever so slightly. Any sound from it must have simply blended in with the normal fan whirl. But the vibration penetrated into the bearing which wore it out.

The fans are $140-$150 OEM, some are offering it at $110 on sale. The KTM part number is 60035041000. The SPAL number ( mfg.) is VA37A10146. Honda RC51 has a VA31A10146A which could be used in a pinch, but the grill is more open to catching debris. Make sure you order of the directional "pull" fan and not the "push". The hassle is waiting a week or more on the road if it goes out. So, I'd monitor the fan by lightly free spinning it. In another Euro forum there were instances of the fan bearings drying out and bearings failing from the constant heat of the LC8 motors.

Just some FYIs.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:00 PM   #15
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Radiator Temperature Sensor

You can also get the spal fans on amazon for $55. It's what I have on mine and it's been working well for the past 2 years.

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