ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-22-2007, 05:53 PM   #61
MikeyT
Krusty Olde Pharte™
 
MikeyT's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: The Thumb of Michigan
Oddometer: 5,087
Merci! C'est magnifique!
__________________
MikeyT

99 Shadow Spirit 1100

"Non Illegitimi Carborundum"
MikeyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2007, 06:35 PM   #62
rud_dog
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rud_dog's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: London, UK
Oddometer: 119
Mike, thats a great report, some great pics and a stunning looking GS too

Have you installed an extra cockpit surround round your clocks?

Thanks

Rudi
rud_dog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 02:58 AM   #63
MikeO OP
Wage slave...
 
MikeO's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Scarning, Norfolk, today...
Oddometer: 6,631
16th June 2007



Last night I came across a tiny French/English dictionary - I wish I'd found it sooner. It has an inscription on the frontispiece dating it at around 1959 - but the short selection of 'Useful phrases' in the middle speak of another world...

Mettez ma boite à chapeau dans le filet et vos petits bagages sous la banquette - Put my hat box on the rack and your small luggage under the seat.

Ce cigare est trop forte et ile brûle mal - This cigar is too strong and does not burn well.

L'agrafe de mon bracelet est détachée
- The clasp of my bangle is loose.

Je voudrais de la cire à cacheter, un régle et un coupe-papier. I would like some sealing wax, a ruler and a paper knife.



I'm also a little bewildered at some of the information - under what circumstances would a traveller need to know that gaz de moutarde means mustard gas?

We quickly finish packing. After a quick breakfast we tidy the gîte up and load up the bike. It’s dry, but there’s a lot of cloud about. We decide initially to dress for dry weather and see how it goes. Sylvia’s oversuit and my Gore-Tex liner are rolled up and put on top of the roll-bag on the rack – held in place by an elastic net.



We set off heading west. I’ve programmed Bettie to take us about 100km in that direction, before heading north towards Tours, our target for the day. Almost immediately after setting out at 0805, I regret not fitting my jacket liner – it’s OK when I’m in direct sunlight, but when the sun goes behind a cloud, it gets quite chilly. I ask Sylvia if she’s OK, but she says she’s fine – sheltered from the airflow by me. I tell her she can rely on me breaking wind for her at any time…



We ride past the windmills at Ally again – the chipseal now a few days old and already – despite the paucity of traffic – easier to ride, as vehicles have cleared wheel-ruts in the loose gravel. We briefly join the A75 heading south and get off at the sortie (exit) for the fortified hilltop town of St Flour.



It’s nearly 0900, so we negotiate the ring road around the town during rush hour.



We spot this pair of motorcycle students and their instructor – the students’ bikes have a series of crash bars protecting the lights, indicators and handlebar levers…



We leave St Flour and start heading west again. We run into some fog and I’m aware, once again, that I’m getting cold.



At 0930 we stop at a roadside café and warm up with a hot chocolate. When we kit up again, I’m wearing my full waterproof kit – it’s much more comfortable in that it’s warmer – but a little restrictive…



We start wending our way through a series of tiny little D roads...



Bettie has taken me at my word when I asked her to find me a route via minor roads. We climb and descend a series of wooded valleys and hills...



...occasionally coming into a small town or village.



In one, we come across the dreaded Route Bareé (Road Closed) and follow the diversion – only to be led to another closed road. We take another diversion, which leads us back towards the original road. I have a vision of us both being found – skeletons beside a rusted out bike – unable to find a way out of the town. Eventually, I decide that the bloody Route isn’t that Bareé and ride over some mud and gravel to get us out – thereby probably saving our lives…



We once again ride through a bewilderingly complex set of turns, climbs and descents for the next hour or so – if it wasn’t for the compass and Bettie’s directions I’d have no clue where we were.



Eventually we arrive at the town of St Augustin – and spot this hostelry just as the church bell strikes noon. I park the Adv in the shade...



...and our host, Gaston, welcomes us – in English yet. We’re soon seated and being served the set menu. This comprises:



Soup (a sort of home-made Scotch broth – delicious)…



An entrée – not sure what it was called, but it was a very light pie crust over potato and pate, with a side salad and a very zingy dressing…



Steak and frîtes (made from quartered new potatoes)…



Followed by cheese (natch)…



And finally, ice cream.



All for €13 each – which included a litre of wine we turned down in favour of some iced water…

Sylvia & I agree that we have to leave this country soon, or we won’t be able to fit into our riding kit…



We‘re back on the road after a short (by French standards) lunch break of 1¼ hrs. I drag the footpegs through three of the first four bends, as I struggle to get used to the increased load on the suspension.



We fill up with fuel at Eymoutiers and head on up the D940 – marked on the map as a scenic route. This is one of the main reasons I pushed so far west before heading north.



Now, I know we’ve probably been a bit spoilt, travelling through places like the Gorges du Tarn and so on, but – frankly – one thing I expect from a scenic route is – scenery.



It’s not that it was ugly – it just wasn’t any different from the rest of the D roads we’d been riding all morning.

By the time we reached Guerêt, we both decide we’re all D-roaded out. I set Bettie the task of getting us to an hotel in Tours by the most expeditious route. Following her directions we head west on a fast dual carriageway to La Souterrraine, then head north on the A20. At Châteauroux we join the (single carriageway) N143 towards Tours. The weather is turning and we decide to stop and get fully waterproofed and put the cameras away. A wise move as we pass through a nasty squally little shower just afterwards. There is a lot of traffic on the N143 – much of it probably Brits on their way south. It means that overtaking opportunities are rare and I have to stay sharp to make sure I don’t miss any.

At length, we arrive at the outskirts of Tours and Bettie directs me down a short section of Péage (90¢), before spitting me off into the forecourt of an Ibis hotel in the north of the city.



We’re both frazzled from the ride – for the last forty kilometres or so there has been an unpleasant gusty side-wind from the left. We take our kit upstairs and unpack.



A quick visit to the supermarket next door provides the requisite pain, fromage de chèvre et vin rouge to keep the beast from the door. We finish with tarte au poires amondine - pear tart with almonds - and slowly settle down for our last night in France...

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2014
MikeO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 03:09 AM   #64
ClearwaterBMW
The Examiner
 
ClearwaterBMW's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL USA
Oddometer: 5,972
this should have been published in a book
your writing style
sylvia's photog skills...

you would have sold TONS of copies
seriously..... this is one of the best threads i've ever read.... anywhere
thank you SO much
__________________
Greg
'11 R1200 GS Adventure with a DMC M72DX Sidecar
'14 R1200 GS & '14 R nineT (march, 2014)
Live life like you mean it... but take your family and friends (and DOGS) along for the "ride"
ClearwaterBMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 04:42 AM   #65
rob_evans
Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: London(ish), UK.
Oddometer: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeO
Ce cigare est trop forte et ile brûle mal - This cigar is too strong and does not burn well.

That is a little more useful than the Lonely Planet book I had which contained such phrases as "Do you have a methodone programme?"

Beautiful ride report and pictures, I am thoroughly enjoying reading it.

Rob
rob_evans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 05:21 AM   #66
MikeO OP
Wage slave...
 
MikeO's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Scarning, Norfolk, today...
Oddometer: 6,631
17th June 2007

We wake early and breakfast on some fruit and yoghurt we bought last night. We get into our riding kit and load the bike in a matter of a few minutes. The sun is still low on the horizon...



...as we ride past the Beech 99 guarding the roundabout access to Tours Airport, heading north and east...



We're soon on the Péage, passing a clutch of Brits who are apparently struggling with how to best get several bikes through the tollbooth...



...and stop for fuel at the first Aire we reach. We meet this V-Rod rider, carefully pouring oil onto the ground under his bike, so that everyone will recognise it as a Harley.

We get into conversation and he tells us he's on his way to Spain to meet some American HD riders and their bikes off the ferry at Santander and act as a guide for a week or so through Spain. His bike has a - unique - paint scheme...

He asks if we're going to Le Mans - apparently the 24hr race is on this weekend. We are indeed going via the city of Le Mans - but I was unaware that this weekend was the date of the race. It shouldn't affect us - the hordes of Brits won't be starting their journey back to the Channel Ports until well after we're through the area...

We set off once again - today's going to be a long one and we can't dawdle.



We press North and, a hundred miles or so later, stop for a coffee. There are several Brits in the Aire - apparently the weather on Saturday at Le Mans was atrocious...



These guys were driving a couple of cars with "Le Mans 24hr Run" stickers all over them. They had their names on and everything. I couldn't quite work out what they were doing - surely there's no drama in getting to and from Le Mans from the UK - thousands of people do it every year. I must be missing something...



Sylvia spots a possible copyright infringement from an ice cream company.



We pass this Reliant Robin van, painted up to look like the one in 'Only Fools and Horses' - one of the most successful Brit comedies of the last 20-odd years. There must be dozens of these things around - but they always raise a smile...



We keep up a steady 135kph - and the weather is definitely improving...



Riding through Rouen, we take a more north easterly direction, vaguely paralleling the coastline. We enter the first of several tunnels we'll be using today...



Sylvia's really getting quite good at these low light shots...



Back into the light...



...and we're soon out of the 90kph limit and able to roll some power on again...



...and pass slower traffic.



There are several examples of roadside artwork along the way - although they mostly seem to be angled for the southbound carriageway to get the full benefit...



Surprisingly soon, we're turning off the Péage and following the signs for the Channel Tunnel. The French name for the English Channel is La Manche - The Sleeve...



With some trepidation, we approach the automated check in booth...



...insert my credit card...



...but this time it works flawlessly. I take my printed 'Hanger' - a ticket designed to be hung over the rear view mirror of a car - and we make our way to the terminal building to wait the 90 or so minutes until our train is due to board...



We have a spot of light lunch (including a bag of crips ) at the Ready to Go snack bar...



...and afterwards wander out and chat to the owners of the crowd of bikes that has collected by where we parked the Adv...



Nice number plate on this K1200S. There were a group of twelve chaps from the RAF and Metropolitan Police just returning from their annual trip through Germany. They asked about the deer 'kill' sticker on the Adv and, after hearing the story, told us the t the K1200S rider had taken a glancing blow from a buzzard on his shoulder at speed. Thankfully he stayed upright and was just bruised. The buzzard didn't make it...

We get in line to board out train...



...everyone getting their passports and tickets together...



We're vaguely waved though and find our way - more by guesswork than by following the non-existent signage - to our train. They obviously don't have too many coaches and lorries to load onto this one, because we are waved aboard a double height carriage...



...and ride forward until stopped about four carriages up...



Sylvia's still practising with those low light shots...



We're soon mobile and Sylvia stands by the window taking loads of shots - determined to get a picture of us actually entering the tunnel. I'm happy to report that she succeeds...



During the transit, I get chatting to Yuris...



...who, with his girlfriend (whose name we didn't catch), is going to see a friend of theirs in London for the day. I question the fact that it's already about 1400 - seems a little bit of a late start for a day trip. He just says "We got a call this morning. Sometimes friends just need to have you there".

I like them immediately.

Yuris has done a bit of bike travelling, but his girlfriend isn't too keen - so he is without a bike at the moment. But I can see the distant look in his eye as I talk about our week. I also catch sight of a tolerant recognition of the inevitable from his girlfriend, as she sees his rapt attention while he listens to our tales of travel in various parts of the world.

I don't think it'll be too long before they're on two wheels...



In no time at all we're in the UK - setting our watches back an hour and waving goodbye to the train driver.

Yuris and his girlfriend wave to us as they overtake us on the M20 - intent on their mercy dash to the capital.

We adjust ourselves to the hugely crowded roads and eventually get to the Dartford Tunnel...



...and cross under the Thames. We continue north on the M25, then turn north east on the M11 and run into a tailback of traffic from some roadworks...



...so I filter (lane split) for three or four miles. When we get to the road works (which had been signed "Protecting workforce in the road") they turn out to be 100 metres long - one lane closed - no sign of work being carried out or any workforce.



We stop at Mildenhall for a drink - but feel no need to partake of the special...



...pass the F100 guarding the gate at RAF Lakenheath, home to the 48th Fighter Wing...



...and are soon closing in on home...



...and the roads get narrower...



...until, quite suddenly, we're turning into my road...



...and opening my front door.

It has been 9 days and 2269 miles since we were here last.



We drive up into Dereham and get Sylvia's favourite meal for dinner...



There's no rest for the wicked - it's time to re-pack - we're leaving for Gatwick at 0630 tomorrow, to allow Sylvia to travel back to Montana. It all seems to be a bit of rush.

But after all the travelling is over we'll be able to relax and look back at some memories for a while...























__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2014

MikeO screwed with this post 06-23-2007 at 05:30 AM
MikeO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 05:43 AM   #67
ClearwaterBMW
The Examiner
 
ClearwaterBMW's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL USA
Oddometer: 5,972
one more time.....
THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES
__________________
Greg
'11 R1200 GS Adventure with a DMC M72DX Sidecar
'14 R1200 GS & '14 R nineT (march, 2014)
Live life like you mean it... but take your family and friends (and DOGS) along for the "ride"
ClearwaterBMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 05:57 AM   #68
shay
reading is hard
 
shay's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
Oddometer: 246
Fantastic report and pics Mike.
__________________

shay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 06:14 AM   #69
GB
Mod Squad
 
GB's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto, ON
Oddometer: 55,243
A superb journey, report and pics!!

In your retirement years, you might want to run small guided tours of France...

Thank you for taking us along with you on this fantastic journey!! I almost feel as though I've been to France this week minus the succulent cuisine and ensuing weight gain!!
GB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 09:41 AM   #70
MikeO OP
Wage slave...
 
MikeO's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Scarning, Norfolk, today...
Oddometer: 6,631
Questions...

Some answers...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1962
Mike ,

How many miles has the bike done now ?

Steve
About 121,000. I've had to change the speedo. The replacement (believe it or not) had about 4000 more miles on than the original, so it shows just over 125,000...

Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerPriller
Mike,

If you come through Paris, give us a shout. The wife and i would be happy to have you over.
give me a shout (pm).

cheers

nk
Thanks for the offer nk - much appreciated (although, as you've now read, we were home before I started posting).

I always avoid Paris like the plague when on a bike - hence the route via Reims on the way out and Tours on the way home. I'm not really a city person - but if I do visit one, I like to be on foot and dressed for the weather...

It looks like you live in a beautiful place...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClearwaterBMW
i'll say it again
simply incredible

is Sylvia shooting the D200 from the pillion all this time?

how one earth is she able to control that large camera from ALL angles, at speed?

Aah, there's nothing like a gush of Clearwater to massage your ego...

Glad you enjoyed the trip Greg. Sylvia & I both use Canon S80s when on the move. Sylvia will carry her Nikon D200 in her backpack generally, but will carry it on a sort of Sam Browne belt arrangement if we're expecting to be riding through somewhere that warrants it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rud_dog
Mike, thats a great report, some great pics and a stunning looking GS too

Have you installed an extra cockpit surround round your clocks?

Thanks

Rudi
Glad you enjoyed the trip Rudi.

Yes, it's a part from Boxer-Design in Germany. You used to be able to buy them through Motorworks as well - and I believe they would supply them (at extra cost) painted to match.





Thanks to everyone for their comments...

Cheers,

Mike
__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2014
MikeO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 09:56 AM   #71
MaddBrit
Now officially a Yank.
 
MaddBrit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Allen, Tejas. Blissful state...
Oddometer: 23,468
Simply outstanding!



Thanks for taking us all along the ride. If your ever out the west coast, you have a place to stay at Moss Beach anytime (20 miles south of San Francisco).
__________________
Just happy :)
MaddBrit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 10:14 AM   #72
wayno
Beastly Adventurer
 
wayno's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: East of KCMO
Oddometer: 6,123
Thumb

Fantastic pics
__________________
DL650
DR650
98 KTM RXCe
RIDE SAFE
May as well Laugh
wayno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 11:31 AM   #73
ClearwaterBMW
The Examiner
 
ClearwaterBMW's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL USA
Oddometer: 5,972
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeO
Aah, there's nothing like a gush of Clearwater to massage your ego...

Glad you enjoyed the trip Greg. Sylvia & I both use Canon S80s when on the move. Sylvia will carry her Nikon D200 in her backpack generally, but will carry it on a sort of Sam Browne belt arrangement if we're expecting to be riding through somewhere that warrants it.
actually my "gushing" was an UNDERstatement, in THIS case

thanks for the followup on the camera... i was wondering how she'd manipulated that D200 while "at speed."
__________________
Greg
'11 R1200 GS Adventure with a DMC M72DX Sidecar
'14 R1200 GS & '14 R nineT (march, 2014)
Live life like you mean it... but take your family and friends (and DOGS) along for the "ride"
ClearwaterBMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 11:40 AM   #74
Mr Head
PowerPoint ADV
 
Mr Head's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Yorba Linda, The outskirts of the OC.
Oddometer: 6,378
Excellent stuff as always. I am planning my return to the French countryside. This time I'm bringing the bike. And spending more time.
__________________
...Richard
"...the road goes on forever and the party never ends..." - Robert Earl Keen
Mr Head is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 02:38 PM   #75
Johnny Dakar
Fuckin' Smartass
 
Johnny Dakar's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Just 3 Short Miles North of Baja
Oddometer: 13,748
Top report!
__________________
"Just sharing this quiet time is intimate, our tent, our bikes and our faces illuminated by yellow light from the fire. This is why we travel. To experience those rare moments of perfection of solitude of life."
-Simon Thomas

Johnny Dakar screwed with this post 06-25-2007 at 03:00 PM
Johnny Dakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014