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Old 04-14-2007, 04:55 PM   #16
drop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie
Sure, that's the reason.
I realize that's not the reason. They sell more CRF's. It's what the people want. The absolute lightest most high strung thing they can get their hands on. Reliability and maintenance schedules takes a back seat for most offroad riders. For dualsports though it should be a priority.
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Old 04-14-2007, 05:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by comes naturally
Details?? What was her maintenance routine? What type of terrain was it ridden in?
Sorry I don't have that information. Like I said it's not my bike. I was just making the point that race bikes don't make the most reliable dualsports. I'm guilty of it too. I ride a XR650R that's plated. It's a race bike designed for high speed riding over long distances. Still it's not an ideal dualsport. Oil changes every 1000 miles, small fuel range, etc. People buy bikes with their hearts not their heads. If a WR250F for the street is what you want than make it happen. Just make sure you post some pics when your done so we can all see.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drop
Sorry I don't have that information. Like I said it's not my bike. I was just making the point that race bikes don't make the most reliable dualsports. I'm guilty of it too. I ride a XR650R that's plated. It's a race bike designed for high speed riding over long distances. Still it's not an ideal dualsport. Oil changes every 1000 miles, small fuel range, etc. People buy bikes with their hearts not their heads. If a WR250F for the street is what you want than make it happen. Just make sure you post some pics when your done so we can all see.
Sorry, drop, but the information you can't supply us with is very important in determining why a motor would fail. A piston slapping a valve, if indeed that is what happened, could be caused by numerous things. I can guarantee you it was not caused by an inherent flaw in a new-generation (as opposed to XR's) 250 4-stroke motor, or by said motor being ridden on the street. These motors rev very high and the valve clearances need to be spot-on and monitored. If you check your valves regularly (every 400 miles or so with single-track riding, more frequently with dual-sport use) and make sure they are correct, there will be no grenading or pistons slapping valves. And that is just a valve check, not a valve adjustment. If you know what you're doing, it doesn't take long. If this seems excessive to you, you need to remember this is a small motor that revs to about 12k-13k. It's not a low-stress motor like your 650.

Preventative rebuilds every season or two? Absurd. If you're doing your maintenance, there is no need for a rebuild whatsoever. I rode my WR250f for 5 years before it needed any motor work at all, and then it was only 1 valve (the center intake valve, keep an eye on this one as it always tightens up, same as on the 426 motor) and 5 valve guide seals and ended up costing me a grand total of $200 for the head work. This hardly seems like excessive maintenance to me.

How often do you check the valves on your 650, drop?

And as far as going orange for a dualsport, I can comment on that as well, since I actually own and ride one: I also have a KTM450 EXC with a plate, and it gets ridden quite a bit. Our last 2 day ride was 1/2 dirt and 1/2 pavement and totalled 500 miles. The motor is almost twice the size, it weighs about the same (or feels like it when I pick it up) but the maintenance schedule is almost more intense. The valves have lash adjusters, as opposed to shim-under-bucket on the Yamaha, and they tend to need adjusting more than the 250 Yamaha motor.

Both bikes get oil changes at about 300 or 400 miles, petroleum based, not synthetic.


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Old 04-14-2007, 09:47 PM   #19
holycaveman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drop
Sorry I don't have that information. Like I said it's not my bike. I was just making the point that race bikes don't make the most reliable dualsports. I'm guilty of it too. I ride a XR650R that's plated. It's a race bike designed for high speed riding over long distances. Still it's not an ideal dualsport. Oil changes every 1000 miles, small fuel range, etc. People buy bikes with their hearts not their heads. If a WR250F for the street is what you want than make it happen. Just make sure you post some pics when your done so we can all see.
No its not the ideal road bike either.

I have rebuilt many, many wr/yz 4 strokes. 1200 dollars was the most expensive rebuild yet! And that was with new cases. Yea, at a dealer ship it will run you 3,000.

You DO have to change the oil quite frequently, especially if you run it on the road(putting longer hours on it)

I don't see why it would not be reliable on the road though. There might be better choices. But really it should be pretty reliable.

Now a honda? Thats another story. I wouldn't use a crf for a dualsport. Not unless you did some headwork right off the bat. Then it might be ok.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drop
I realize that's not the reason. They sell more CRF's. It's what the people want. The absolute lightest most high strung thing they can get their hands on. Reliability and maintenance schedules takes a back seat for most offroad riders. For dualsports though it should be a priority.
It really depends on what your type of dual sporting involves. I don't want to spend anymore time then I absoulutely have to on paved roads. I only want to ride on gravel roads to get to the single track stuff which is what I really want to ride on. I use non DOT tires. I gear the bike for hard off road stuff. Because of the type of riding I'm doing, a WR/KLX/EXC makes perfect sense. I was going to get one of those bikes and get rid of my DRZ, but after a ride a couple weekends ago I guess I had a change of heart. The DRZ, while not a power house, and on the heavy side is still a lot of fun to ride. Of course, I might have a change of heart tomorrow since I'm riding the CRF.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:12 PM   #21
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holycaveman

Now a honda? Thats another story. I wouldn't use a crf for a dualsport. Not unless you did some headwork right off the bat. Then it might be ok.
Yup, Kibblewhite valves are a must! Got to stay on top of the clearance checks. Funny thing is I have had more problems with other parts of the bike then I have the motor. Go figure I never considered DS'ing it, mainly because it's a kicker.
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian640
Hi,

Has anyone used a Yamaha WR250F as a dual sport machine? With plenty of street riding? If so any reliability issues?

Thanks.
Hows this for reliability? not a 250 but similar. I have a 03WR450 that has over 11,000 dirt/pavement miles on. This is on the original motor, valves and top end. I have never had a major issue with this bike. It is all about upkeep. change the oil often and use a good grade oil, worth it in the end.
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:21 PM   #23
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I bought my '01 WR426 already dual-sported with 12,600 miles on it!!! Owner didn't maintain it very well, really black oil and lots of parts needed replacing. I've since put around 2500 more miles on it (about 60% street/40% singletrack riding) with power on wheelies on side streets and some wanna-be supermoto riding and it runs great! When I race my friend on his Honda CRF450R we are dead even until about halfway through 5th gear where he pulls away from me by a bike length or two, really suprised me the first time we raced. Have checked the valves twice with no movement at all. Always starts on 1st or 2nd kick even after sitting for a month or two in the winter. I usually go about 300 miles between oil changes and the oil usually isn't even black by then at all (running synthetic 10W-50), no metal in the filter ever.

The only things it lacks is a 6th gear for street use (I alternate between 13/47 and 14/47 depending on where I'm riding) and electric start. Any roads with 50 mph speed limits can be done for 10-15 miles but 60mph sustained and above and its just revving too much.

If you ride much variance in altitude you need to get an adjustable fuel screw. I live at 4700' and ride between 3000' and 10,000', above 7000' it starts to idle a lot slower and becomes harder to start if you don't lean it out with the screw. I rode from 4700' up to 9300' the other day and I couldn't restart the bike until I leaned it out a little, still has great power up at that altitude too!

If Yamaha put a 6th gear on a WR450, it would be the perfect bike for my needs.
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hartzpad
I bought my '01 WR426 already dual-sported with 12,600 miles on it!!! Owner didn't maintain it very well, really black oil and lots of parts needed replacing. I've since put around 2500 more miles on it (about 60% street/40% singletrack riding) with power on wheelies on side streets and some wanna-be supermoto riding and it runs great! When I race my friend on his Honda CRF450R we are dead even until about halfway through 5th gear where he pulls away from me by a bike length or two, really suprised me the first time we raced. Have checked the valves twice with no movement at all. Always starts on 1st or 2nd kick even after sitting for a month or two in the winter. I usually go about 300 miles between oil changes and the oil usually isn't even black by then at all (running synthetic 10W-50), no metal in the filter ever.

The only things it lacks is a 6th gear for street use (I alternate between 13/47 and 14/47 depending on where I'm riding) and electric start. Any roads with 50 mph speed limits can be done for 10-15 miles but 60mph sustained and above and its just revving too much.

If you ride much variance in altitude you need to get an adjustable fuel screw. I live at 4700' and ride between 3000' and 10,000', above 7000' it starts to idle a lot slower and becomes harder to start if you don't lean it out with the screw. I rode from 4700' up to 9300' the other day and I couldn't restart the bike until I leaned it out a little, still has great power up at that altitude too!

If Yamaha put a 6th gear on a WR450, it would be the perfect bike for my needs.
that would be nice.

WR450F_RDR screwed with this post 05-28-2007 at 06:06 PM
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:57 PM   #25
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Why is the WR250 motor so deleicate, it's basically a one cylinder R1 engine when you look at the displacement and what it revs to. Take care of it, keep the oil clean and plentiful and don't abuse it, it should be fine. The R1 also uses a 5 valve TI setup and does not even require the valves to be checked till 26,600 miles. The WR250 and other race bikes eat topends and valves due to dirt..not revs.
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Old 05-28-2007, 07:03 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comes naturally
I'm trying to convince PennDOT that my WR can be on the road.
Is "reliability" really their issue?
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsprint
Why is the WR250 motor so deleicate, it's basically a one cylinder R1 engine when you look at the displacement and what it revs to. Take care of it, keep the oil clean and plentiful and don't abuse it, it should be fine. The R1 also uses a 5 valve TI setup and does not even require the valves to be checked till 26,600 miles. The WR250 and other race bikes eat topends and valves due to dirt..not revs.
That's probably true about it being a slice off an R1. But the gearing makes a world of difference. The R1 can do 100mph in first gear, the 250 won't see more than 80 in top gear. So the R1 loafs along at 4000-5000 rpm down the road and the 250 is pulling 12k to stay up with traffic.

On Thumper Talk they are fragging the intake valves in the 250's. Pounds the seats and tulips the valve.
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Old 05-29-2007, 10:29 AM   #28
comes naturally
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viverrid
Is "reliability" really their issue?
no.....
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:09 PM   #29
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Man, I'm starting to sound like I work for Husky, but I can't believe no one has mentioned the TE250 yet. Already street legal.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:04 PM   #30
Ian640 OP
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Hombre
On Thumper Talk they are fragging the intake valves
Can someone please translate fragging?

Another question for WR250F owners. What's the recommended distance between oil changes? And valve clearance checks?

Thanks in advance.
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