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Old 11-15-2011, 04:22 PM   #166
dually
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: New England
Oddometer: 71
950 starter clutch issues

I've done this repair on my 950, too. Going for the second time, though. Lots of starter issues with mine, and yes, I've done ALL of the starter clutch upgrades. There's definitely a procedure to starter these things. Thanks for the great tip!

Dually
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:12 PM   #167
mgorman
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No one had one of the seals you guys have listed so I tried something a little closer to home, I popped the circular spring from inside an old fork seal from my 640's 48mm WP forks. Seemed to go on ok and it fired right up.

I'll give it some time and then inspect it for wear or when I hear that god forsaken clanking!
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:26 AM   #168
DirtBikeDaddy
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Eh? Puller details?

Hey everyone...
I think I'm in the same boat with my started and would like to attemp the work but lack the one REAL tool required.

I work for a company that can do alot of good machining and wanted to get details on this puller.
Anyone have a drawing/sketch/detailed descriptions on it's details that I can take back to the office?

History;
Last fall I tried to run my winter fuel mix through the engine and the bike would not start, after a few attempts and a drained battery I gave up gave the battery a good long charge. A day or 2 later, with the batter fully charged I tried again with no luck. After a number of tries I started to feel and starter motor wasn't doing much cranking, then I could hear that nasty whine whine and again gave up for the season.
This spring, no real engagement is detected and all I hear that awful noise.
I'd attempt to start it manually, but I'm a little worried I'd be doing more dammage, and well manually starting my 640 LC4/SMC is not something I've done before (I've only owned it a year now) and I'm lazy too...lol.

Looking forward to any help, it's killing me to have this early spring and no bike noises comming from my garage!!!

Cheers
DBD
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:48 AM   #169
Tseta
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The most important detail about the puller is the thread size, M33x1.5. Most other parts of the design are quite flexible indeed.

Here's a picture of a "factory-made" flywheel puller, showing the basic design:


And here's a quick sketch showing the same:


Hopefully these are of some use.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #170
wrk2surf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtBikeDaddy View Post
Hey everyone...
I think I'm in the same boat with my started and would like to attemp the work but lack the one REAL tool required.

I work for a company that can do alot of good machining and wanted to get details on this puller.
Anyone have a drawing/sketch/detailed descriptions on it's details that I can take back to the office?

History;
Last fall I tried to run my winter fuel mix through the engine and the bike would not start, after a few attempts and a drained battery I gave up gave the battery a good long charge. A day or 2 later, with the batter fully charged I tried again with no luck. After a number of tries I started to feel and starter motor wasn't doing much cranking, then I could hear that nasty whine whine and again gave up for the season.
This spring, no real engagement is detected and all I hear that awful noise.
I'd attempt to start it manually, but I'm a little worried I'd be doing more dammage, and well manually starting my 640 LC4/SMC is not something I've done before (I've only owned it a year now) and I'm lazy too...lol.

Looking forward to any help, it's killing me to have this early spring and no bike noises comming from my garage!!!

Cheers
DBD
do yourself a favor and rebuild the carb while you have it down..
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:42 PM   #171
bmwktmbill
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Guys,
Read all 12 pages and marched down to the basement and pulled the flywheel cover off. Ran the air compressor up to 100 psi and used a 24mm socket in a half inch impact wrench, left hand thread, righty loosey. Put the bike in high, chain on, held the flywheel with the rear brake.

Spun the nut off. It was red loctited by the factory or by a PO, not sure which. Ordered a factory puller(OEM) at Pit Stop Parts for $39usd plus shipping so now I wait for parts. The next step is a seal to scavange a spring.

I hate loctite sometimes, if I'd known I would have used some heat?

http://www.partspitstop.com/

bill
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:57 AM   #172
DirtBikeDaddy
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Location: Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
do yourself a favor and rebuild the carb while you have it down..

CARB...what's that?

Just kidding...
I'll search for a carb rebuild post for my 04 625 SMC before I order any parts.

I was planning to give the kick start a try today (never tried it before....*crossing fingers)

And after reading all 12 pages, I'm just a little suprised at how so many of you thumper owners seem to work for beer...LOL

Cheers
DBD
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:25 AM   #173
MNCherryinCA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Guys,
Read all 12 pages and marched down to the basement and pulled the flywheel cover off. Ran the air compressor up to 100 psi and used a 24mm socket in a half inch impact wrench, left hand thread, righty loosey. Put the bike in high, chain on, held the flywheel with the rear brake.

Spun the nut off. It was red loctited by the factory or by a PO, not sure which. Ordered a factory puller(OEM) at Pit Stop Parts for $39usd plus shipping so now I wait for parts. The next step is a seal to scavange a spring.

I hate loctite sometimes, if I'd known I would have used some heat?

http://www.partspitstop.com/

bill
Hey bmwktmbill,
I'm unfortunately trying to replace a chewed up flywheel and rotor, too. You answered a couple of my questions here. I ordered a flywheel removal tool last night. I have no idea how to use it though. Do you need to also remove the 6 black socket head screws to remove the flywheel?

Thanks,
MNCherryinCA
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #174
gunnerbuck
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Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post
Hey bmwktmbill,
I'm unfortunately trying to replace a chewed up flywheel and rotor, too. You answered a couple of my questions here. I ordered a flywheel removal tool last night. I have no idea how to use it though. Do you need to also remove the 6 black socket head screws to remove the flywheel?

Thanks,
MNCherryinCA
Go to page 1 of this thread...
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:55 PM   #175
DirtBikeDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
do yourself a favor and rebuild the carb while you have it down..
Kick starting was easy...a or two made the initial "Knee in the face" shock go away, but I figured it out from a number of great posts on here!!!

Can you point this old man in the direction of a good post on the carb details?
(still learning the ropes on forum searches it seems...DUHHH)

Cheers
DBD
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:31 AM   #176
exman
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LC4 Adventure 620 starter clutch protection

It happens sometimes, if I switch the engine off by turning the ignition key, it stops by noisy CLUNK. I've been told by more experienced bikers that it would be more protective for starter clutch if I kill the engine by pulling the hand decomp lever. I've tried few times and it works with no noise, but it is not recommended by manufacturer said Owner's Manual for my 525EXC (nothing mentioned in LC4 Manual).
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:32 AM   #177
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exman View Post
It happens sometimes, if I switch the engine off by turning the ignition key, it stops by noisy CLUNK. I've been told by more experienced bikers that it would be more protective for starter clutch if I kill the engine by pulling the hand decomp lever. I've tried few times and it works with no noise, but it is not recommended by manufacturer said Owner's Manual for my 525EXC (nothing mentioned in LC4 Manual).
The auto decomp on the LC 4 often makes a horrible noise upon shutdown as the engine does it's final low RPM turn.... The clunk noise being emitted from this does sound bad, but causes no harm...
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:56 AM   #178
exman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
The auto decomp on the LC 4 often makes a horrible noise upon shutdown as the engine does it's final low RPM turn.... The clunk noise being emitted from this does sound bad, but causes no harm...
I don't know what to say since I heard the following explanation: if you switch off the engine while the piston is on the compression stroke but haven't reach TDC, it goes back and turns the engine in opposite direction. Starter clutch is now trying to block this movement (freewheel eccentric pieces moved by the main shaft are pressing against freewheel hub which cannot move being geared with e-starter) and the frightening CLUNK appears. And if it is so, that wears the starter clutch a lot..
If this theory is sound, my next question is: which bad consequences (if there is any) are produced by pulling the hand decomp lever to cut the engine off?
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:28 AM   #179
Tseta
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Exman, the theory you have heard is very valid and I agree with it. I have heard something similar from a source which I consider highly reliable, who also deals with a lot of KTM LC4s.

I don't know about any bad consequences, but, for what it's worth, I have been both starting* and stopping my LC4 with the help of the decomp. lever for some while now. I think it will ease up the load on the starter as well as the sprague clutch and associated components. The sprague clutch itself, not to mention the hub or the 79T-gear, are quite expensive indeed and any action that can be taken to lengthen their service life would seem logical.


*Starting the bike while using the decomp. involves pulling the lever in, pushing the starter button and letting the engine gain some "momentum" and then releasing the decomp. lever, thus enabling the bike to start.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:47 PM   #180
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
Exman, the theory you have heard is very valid and I agree with it. I have heard something similar from a source which I consider highly reliable, who also deals with a lot of KTM LC4s.

I don't know about any bad consequences, but, for what it's worth, I have been both starting* and stopping my LC4 with the help of the decomp. lever for some while now. I think it will ease up the load on the starter as well as the sprague clutch and associated components. The sprague clutch itself, not to mention the hub or the 79T-gear, are quite expensive indeed and any action that can be taken to lengthen their service life would seem logical.


*Starting the bike while using the decomp. involves pulling the lever in, pushing the starter button and letting the engine gain some "momentum" and then releasing the decomp. lever, thus enabling the bike to start.

Cheers,

Tseta
I have replaced my sprague clutch once in 153,000 KM and chalk this failure up to trying to stretch out the service life of a battery...What happens is the poor battery doesn't spin the sprague hard enough to get a good bite on the drum and it slips marring the tumblers... When I put in the new battery these marred tumblers then just slipped constantly under the extra force and made the associated squeal...

I don't think the engine spinning backwards upon shutdown would do any damage as those transmitted forces to the gears would only gently be absorbed by the starter motor freewheeling...
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