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Old 04-20-2009, 04:36 PM   #106
warewolf
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Read some more of the thread

I had fun and games trying to track down the correct part. Plus, you can join garter springs from smaller diameters if necessary. Should all be written up earlier in this thread.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:55 PM   #107
NICO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf
I had fun and games trying to track down the correct part. Plus, you can join garter springs from smaller diameters if necessary.
I snipped about 10mm off the big end of my spring and put it back together. Worked just fine. We shall see for how long it holds up.
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:42 AM   #108
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How do you join them?

Just for general knowledge, I hope to not have this problem again.

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Old 04-23-2009, 08:39 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beez
How do you join them?

Just for general knowledge, I hope to not have this problem again.

One end of the stock spring has a decreasing radius (tapered so to speak) and it threads into the big end easily.

I assume if you were to use multiple garter springs as mentioned earlier, they should also have a similar tapered end.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:42 AM   #110
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The starter clutch slips on my -03 LC4 ADV when the engine's cold. Starts OK using the kickstart ! (haven't got the technique 100% nailed, but I'm getting there...).

When the engine's warm the E-start works like a charm ...

Could this be due to a worn/tired starter motor ? Ie. too weak to properly engage the clutch when the engine's cold ?


Edit : forgot to mention : The battery's brand new, high quality and properly charged !

Slowflyer screwed with this post 04-23-2009 at 12:14 PM
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:10 PM   #111
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I'd be inclined to make sure all your ground wires are intact and fastened securely with no corrosion.

Only thing that comes to mind in regards to engine temp is the oil is a bit thinner and maybe it is a touch easier to get the engine parts to spin with the warmer oil? WAG all the way.
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Old 04-23-2009, 03:21 PM   #112
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
One end of the stock spring has a decreasing radius (tapered so to speak) and it threads into the big end easily.

I assume if you were to use multiple garter springs as mentioned earlier, they should also have a similar tapered end.
Yep. All the garter springs I've since checked are like that. Fork dust seals, wheel bearing seals, suspension bearing seals (same as wheel bearings) whatever. Must be the standard way to make them.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:45 PM   #113
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Sooner or later I'll have to fix the starter clutch ... hmm ... better be prepared !



Shopping list :

- 7 58440026000 FREE-WHEEL FWD 332008 BLS
- 8 58440025000 FREEWHEEL HUB
- 17 58540042000 STARTER FLAN.GASKET 0,5MM 2001

Then there's the 6 bolts for the starter hub ... I assume it's number 9 on the picture ?

- 9 0912060121 AH SCREW DIN0912-M 6X12 12.9 x 6

What's number ten in the pic ? 10 58440098000 AH CENTERING SCREW M6X12,5 ? (and what makes a M6x12.5 screw cost $6.64 ??)

Any other bits or/and pieces I should order "just in case" (like gaskets ...) ??

/J
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:31 AM   #114
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Success

Took less time than the oil change!!!

Service manual said NOT to lock the engine at TDC with the bolt. I did it anyway and the lock nut came off with no prob...keep in mind it's a LH thread!




BTW, the closest garter spring I could find measured 1.6 MM and worked just fine.
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:46 AM   #115
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Hey guys.

Been reading the whole tread and this just might be the exact problem Im experiencing.... It sounds quite bad "downstairs" (no, not there! BELOW the crotch!) and I suspect that it is that frekkin´ starter clutch.

But there is one thing that I can't find in this thread. How am I supposed to torque the flywheel nut corerctly? If I'll use the airgun at assembly, I will not be sure of the torque?

I know that there is a special tool, looks like a horseshoe with a handle, to keep the engine from revolving when torquing the nut, but isn't that tool kind of like Jesus? Everyone has heard of it and seen on pictures, but no one has ever layed a hand on it?


Oh by the way, damn this site really kicks ass!

Cheers!

//Anders.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:54 PM   #116
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This thread was a godsend.

I had the same problem on my '85 Kawi KLR600. Awful KLAAACK! when trying to start. The garter spring had broken (or just come apart). 1 hour later after finding a spring out of an old fork seal: job done, starter working perfectly. The starter clutch in the old Kwacker is identical to the KTM one.

Thanks for the tutorial!
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:22 PM   #117
Janebrink
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Okay I guess I have to answere my own question.

The tool specified in my last reply is a quite expencive story... But I managed to borrow one from my local KTM mechanic. BUT it seems that KTM has managed to produce this "Holding wrench for wheel" in some kind of wrong way, cuz it wont fit. So I just made one by some 5mm ironplate and some stuff lying around. 1 hour later and some welding and grinding and I was done.

Now you are probably asking yourselves why on earth I need this tool since everyone else are using an airgun? Well, I dont have an aircompressor strong enough to power an airgun. At least not in that garage...

Anyhow, I got the shit apart and the garter spring was quite, how do you say, slack? so I took it apart, cut off about 20mm, and twisted it back together again. Voila! nice and firm.

Apparently the freewheel hub often needs to be replaced, because the surface that the freewheel grips on to, is likely damaged. The surface often isn't smooth, and feels liike, like my local mechanic described it, acne-skin...
So therefor I got some abrasive paper for wet usage (800 grain) and started working. After a couple of minutes I began to feel the acne-skin disappear. Its not 100% like new, but still better than before.

I dont think that a tightening of the garter spring, and a sanding of the freewheel hub is a solution for long time use, but more like "I really don't want to sit around waiting for the really slow company to send me the parts". So I tore it apart, ordered some new parts, and then made this fix temporarily.

Unfortunately it seems that my problems dont stop here. Even thoug my freewheel now is good enough to grip onto the engine, the compression is still to big at one point for the starter to crank the engine properly... So my next move is to buy a new camshaft, since it is impossible to buy the autodecompression separately...

Or does anyone else have a better idéa?

Cheers!
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:33 PM   #118
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janebrink

Unfortunately it seems that my problems dont stop here. Even thoug my freewheel now is good enough to grip onto the engine, the compression is still to big at one point for the starter to crank the engine properly... So my next move is to buy a new camshaft, since it is impossible to buy the autodecompression separately...

Or does anyone else have a better idéa?

Cheers!
Just pull in the manual decompression lever while pushing the start button to get the engine spinning, then let the decomp lever out & you should get a start.

Cheers
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:32 PM   #119
dentvet
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anders, what bike do you have? i think tusk makes a flywheel holder, but i think i torked mine by putting it in gear and holding the rear brake.

i would be looking for an electrical problem (battery) before an excess compression problem
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:19 AM   #120
Janebrink
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--> Dentvet
My battery is brand new and fully charged. No problems with the connectors either.
Can you really reach 150Nm by putting it in first gear and holding the rear brake?! Well, my own fabricated tool works just fine. :)

--> Clint
Yep... that is one way to do it. But I prefer to have things as they are supposed to work. You are supposed to be able to start the bike without the manual decompression, so thats what Im looking to achieve. And unfortunately the method you described just wont cut it either... There's still too much compression... The starter just stops... And yes, I have tried another starter.

Sooooo... I suppose that its the only way to buy a new cam... Im not sure, but I think I can hear the rattling noice that are supposed to be when the autodecompression device is worn. But I might just be imagining...
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