Johnny Dakar and The Tamale Kid Head South: The Trip to The Tip - Page 14

Flashmo · 08-02-2011, 08:23 PM

Good Lord! I'm glad I just found this RR yesterday...4 years would have been way too long to wait to see this trip through.

JD...you do tell one hell of a story!

pinocono · 08-02-2011, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flashmo

Good Lord! I'm glad I just found this RR yesterday...4 years would have been way too long to wait to see this trip through.

JD...you do tell one hell of a story!

Ditto, very entertaining RR...though I'm getting the feeling we may all be meeting back here in 2013 for the next chapter!

Flashmo · 08-03-2011, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCalGlide

Ditto, very entertaining RR...though I'm getting the feeling we may all be meeting back here in 2013 for the next chapter!

Subscribed..................just...in...case...... .......

Johnny Dakar · 08-15-2011, 10:41 AM

Day 9 - San Ignacio to Bahia de Los Angeles - 200 miles - Monday, March 26th

BAJAPOCALYPSE

I awoke to the noise every fucking rooster in San Igancio--and there were a few--crowing at the dawn, despite my firmly-wedged earplugs.

And as if that wasn't good enough, some idiot started ringing the church bell.

Fuck.

It was a cool, overcast morning at Casa Lerée, so we ground up some beans and brewed up another pot of Juanita's dark, strong coffee (yeah we did), spread a map out in the courtyard, and discussed the day's route.

I'd mentioned eating at Mikasa to Del in Múlege, and he'd told me that Teri put on an amazing breakfast. Well here we were, on our way out of San Ignacio...but to no avail. Mikasa was closed. We got off our bikes and walked around looking for Teri, to make sure (and because we were really hungry). We sat down next to the river to wait a minute, when a bus pulled up--filled with American tourists. They disembarked, all of them talking to no one in particular, looking around, wandering towards us. I don't know why I found it so particularly disconcerting...but they moved like chickens, or...zombies. All of them vocalizing and zig zagging over to the river's edge. They never even noticed us. We got out of their way. Creepy.

It struck me that as Baja gets developed and paved, and this sight becomes more commonplace, that we're losing something. My friend Surfphoto, upon hearing we were headed south, told me "It's like the old west down there." I'd felt that on this trip...drifting from town to town, meeting folks, having some grub, whisky, tequila and beer, astride our metal and plastic horses...a simpler place compared to what we're used to. What I saw that morning at Mikasa could be a metaphor for what's happening to Baja: a zombie invasion. Get on your bike and get down here. Soon.

Realzing just how hungry we were, Clay and I hopped on our bikes and blew back into the zocalo, looking for breakfast. Any breakfast. We settled on street tacos. Well, not really "settled," because they were delicious. Saw this while we were there:

"That's going to be your next bike," Clay said to me.

FUCK YOU

Ack. Crossing the great Vizcaino again.

Now, with crosswinds. Woohoo.

All the way to Guerrero Negro.

Flat.

Straight.

And windy. Fuck you, Vizcaino Desert.

Little did we know something worth crossing that miserable boring hellhole awaited us in Guerrero Negro.

Just Paul · 09-29-2011, 09:56 PM

day 11 ?

Hayduke · 03-01-2012, 02:06 PM

Johnny Dakar · 01-30-2013, 08:27 PM

MAGICAL SEA CREATURES

Just off the Guerrero Negro Exit on Hwy1, you'll find this place:

Looks family run...thought we'd just stop for a coke and to get out of the wind for a bit.

Sort of happens right before you enter town.

Good-sized place. Looks like you could have a pretty good sized fiesta in here. Coke Light and chips & salsa.

Then a guy walks up, think it's the owner, asks us if we want to try his scallops. No charge.

"Well sure, man. Gracias."

He comes back five minutes later with two plates of scallops, kind of butterflied - if you can butterfly a scallop.

Well I'll be goddamned if they weren't the best fucking scallops I ever had...and I'm a scallop maniac. Fresh, garlicy, limey, perfect. Just amazing.

Fate smiles upon us yet again.

Next stop, a regresso to L.A. Bay, via el dirto.

Still not a big fan of the loose stuff...I struggled...but I made it.

Back to Costa del Sol. They had only one room available: El Cuarto Grande.

I think it was like, $30. Shared the hotel with a few other bikers that night.

An uneventful night. We had no idea what to expect the following day...when we went to visit Coco.

noshoes · 02-03-2013, 10:21 AM

It's occured to me that I may never read the end of this RR.
Don't know if I'll live that long....

yaw · 02-05-2013, 09:16 PM

Johnny Dakar writes one great report. Soaking it up since I'm headed down in less than two weeks for my first virgin Baja trip. Really looking forward to some sun and drying out. Well, not actually drying out- cerveza will be drunk in quantity.

08-15-2011, 10:41 AM	#199
Johnny Dakar ^OP Fuckin' Smartass Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Just 3 Short Miles North of Baja Oddometer: 13,266	Day 9 - San Ignacio to Bahia de Los Angeles - 200 miles - Monday, March 26th BAJAPOCALYPSE I awoke to the noise every fucking rooster in San Igancio--and there were a few--crowing at the dawn, despite my firmly-wedged earplugs. And as if that wasn't good enough, some idiot started ringing the church bell. Fuck. It was a cool, overcast morning at Casa Lerée, so we ground up some beans and brewed up another pot of Juanita's dark, strong coffee (yeah we did), spread a map out in the courtyard, and discussed the day's route. I'd mentioned eating at Mikasa to Del in Múlege, and he'd told me that Teri put on an amazing breakfast. Well here we were, on our way out of San Ignacio...but to no avail. Mikasa was closed. We got off our bikes and walked around looking for Teri, to make sure (and because we were really hungry). We sat down next to the river to wait a minute, when a bus pulled up--filled with American tourists. They disembarked, all of them talking to no one in particular, looking around, wandering towards us. I don't know why I found it so particularly disconcerting...but they moved like chickens, or...zombies. All of them vocalizing and zig zagging over to the river's edge. They never even noticed us. We got out of their way. Creepy. It struck me that as Baja gets developed and paved, and this sight becomes more commonplace, that we're losing something. My friend Surfphoto, upon hearing we were headed south, told me "It's like the old west down there." I'd felt that on this trip...drifting from town to town, meeting folks, having some grub, whisky, tequila and beer, astride our metal and plastic horses...a simpler place compared to what we're used to. What I saw that morning at Mikasa could be a metaphor for what's happening to Baja: a zombie invasion. Get on your bike and get down here. Soon. Realzing just how hungry we were, Clay and I hopped on our bikes and blew back into the zocalo, looking for breakfast. Any breakfast. We settled on street tacos. Well, not really "settled," because they were delicious. Saw this while we were there: "That's going to be your next bike," Clay said to me. FUCK YOU Ack. Crossing the great Vizcaino again. Now, with crosswinds. Woohoo. All the way to Guerrero Negro. Flat. Straight. And windy. Fuck you, Vizcaino Desert. Little did we know something worth crossing that miserable boring hellhole awaited us in Guerrero Negro. __________________ "Just sharing this quiet time is intimate, our tent, our bikes and our faces illuminated by yellow light from the fire. This is why we travel. To experience those rare moments of perfection of solitude of life." -Simon Thomas

09-29-2011, 09:56 PM	#200
Just Paul Pro Cat Herder Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Fremont, Ca Oddometer: 1,942	day 11 ? __________________ Honda 450X (plated) KTM Adventure S Paul's SPOT TRACKER THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE NOT THINGS

03-01-2012, 02:06 PM	#201
Hayduke ///SAFETY THIRD/// Joined: Jun 2004 Location: Salida, coloRADo Oddometer: 41,635	__________________ Official Adventure Rider T-Shirts! . Dual Sport Riding Techniques videos! Rally Moto Kit ///

01-30-2013, 08:27 PM	#202
Johnny Dakar ^OP Fuckin' Smartass Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Just 3 Short Miles North of Baja Oddometer: 13,266	MAGICAL SEA CREATURES Just off the Guerrero Negro Exit on Hwy1, you'll find this place: Looks family run...thought we'd just stop for a coke and to get out of the wind for a bit. Sort of happens right before you enter town. Good-sized place. Looks like you could have a pretty good sized fiesta in here. Coke Light and chips & salsa. Then a guy walks up, think it's the owner, asks us if we want to try his scallops. No charge. "Well sure, man. Gracias." He comes back five minutes later with two plates of scallops, kind of butterflied - if you can butterfly a scallop. Well I'll be goddamned if they weren't the best fucking scallops I ever had...and I'm a scallop maniac. Fresh, garlicy, limey, perfect. Just amazing. Fate smiles upon us yet again. Next stop, a regresso to L.A. Bay, via el dirto. Still not a big fan of the loose stuff...I struggled...but I made it. Back to Costa del Sol. They had only one room available: El Cuarto Grande. I think it was like, $30. Shared the hotel with a few other bikers that night. An uneventful night. We had no idea what to expect the following day...when we went to visit Coco. __________________ "Just sharing this quiet time is intimate, our tent, our bikes and our faces illuminated by yellow light from the fire. This is why we travel. To experience those rare moments of perfection of solitude of life." -Simon Thomas

02-03-2013, 10:21 AM	#203
noshoes Watching the bears Joined: Jul 2004 Location: Katmai NP, AK Oddometer: 1,897	It's occured to me that I may never read the end of this RR. Don't know if I'll live that long.... __________________ "Buen dia ., Buen camino..." - Bato noshoes screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 11:06 AM

08-02-2011, 08:23 PM	#196
Flashmo Whatever... Joined: Dec 2008 Location: Vagabond Hippie Oddometer: 2,465	Good Lord! I'm glad I just found this RR yesterday...4 years would have been way too long to wait to see this trip through. JD...you do tell one hell of a story!

02-05-2013, 09:16 PM	#204
yaw lost Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Republic of PDX Oregon Oddometer: 62	great report! Johnny Dakar writes one great report. Soaking it up since I'm headed down in less than two weeks for my first virgin Baja trip. Really looking forward to some sun and drying out. Well, not actually drying out- cerveza will be drunk in quantity. __________________ 08 yamaha wr250x 07 ktm 990s sold 67 bmw r69s sold

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