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Old 07-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #1531
mulgathumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Atlanta
My mechanic came up with the front end clearances. It's easy to do though, take the front fork caps loose and then push the front tire all the way up to the bottom out spacer in the forks. See if your tire will indeed hit the fender. 50mm is an awful lot to be sliding up, 10-25mm is common enough though.
That a great suggestion! I will do that tonight (hopefully) and then I can post an accurate measurement above the triple clamp that Just clear the guard. That will then be the maximum safe amount that ANYONE can lower the front forks.

As for breaking things, the plastics are all original. The right side "tank" shroud has a small crack in it from where a kangaroo successfully jumped over the top of me at 60mph. I have a full spare set of free plastics thanks to BMW sitting in a box if I ever need them. I have bent the rear subframe once, when a guy rear-ended me at a Ghymkhana. It straightened easily enough. I am about to make a new stronger lower radiator support bracket (where the horn bolts to) as it is cracked about halfway through.
Thats about it!
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:21 PM   #1532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulgathumper
I am about to make a new stronger lower radiator support bracket (where the horn bolts to) as it is cracked about halfway through.
Thats about it!
I already killed one of those, the horn bracket is the cause, but beefing up the stock bracket is the solution. Touratech already has a fabricated solution that is over twice the material designed in a much better fashion, put that on last week. Was supposed to install the SpeedBrain clear tank to increase my capacity on the US Spec fuel tank and be able to get a better idea of my fuel level, but it looks like I'm going to have to do some re-engineering to the subframe if I am to carry a spare fuel cannister on the bike.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:01 AM   #1533
WikdBeemer
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It's interesting you guys talking about the handling and all but I am opposite to you, 6'2" and 100Kg and when I thought I had the front and rear suspension sorted just nice, I went and put on a steering damper.
The damper meant I lost the bar position adjustment holes as the new bar mount/damper mount bracket is equal to the middle setting. I was on the forward most setting.
Not happy with that I checked my rear sag (static and race) because I knew I had put on a few kilos after Xmas (and cant loose it ) and I had never set the spring perfectly anyway.
I had to tighten the spring preload a bit and now the steering feels good again as I have effectively steepened the fork angle, so I'm happy again.
Needless to say my swingarm is above parralell to the ground.
The bike is also better behaved with the damper.

Bobby;
When you say you or your mechanics shortened the shock, was the valving also modified to suit? If so, are you sure the new valving is in the correct ball park of adjustability with the clickers?
Just shortening the shock with the same spring could be the problem, different spring rate may now be required.
I am thinking maybe Ohlins could help here because this is a progressive shock and should not be compared to a linkage system.
Ohlins have a wide range of shocks and if they dont have parts available for your shortening project, perhaps a different shock is the solution?

You could also talk to racetech too, they seem to know what they're on about.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:38 AM   #1534
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I am just not convinced about the swingarm angle being the problem.
The pivot/countershaft feature is reputed to resolve these issues and is supposed to be one reason why the bike is better than the rest.
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:27 AM   #1535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WikdBeemer
I am just not convinced about the swingarm angle being the problem.
The pivot/countershaft feature is reputed to resolve these issues and is supposed to be one reason why the bike is better than the rest.
While I'm no drivetrain engineer, I have dabbled quite a bit with custom suspensions on rock crawler/buggie's and with software programs that help you optimize leverage ratios and pivot points. One of the main goals is to have the linkage/pivots allow the leverage to aim at the center of gravity to maintain traction and prevent wheel hop. I feel on a conventional swing armed bike, you have extra down force in relation to how much power you put to the rear wheel. With the BMW's set up this traction is definitely more consistant, however more gas does not mean as much down force induced on the rear with the static chain tension by it's design.

Like I said, we tried the lowering approach as we've lowered KTM's and HSQ's in this manner with decent enough results (handling has always been a compromise in doing that though), however the BMW was just flat out unrideable regardless of valving or spring rates as we played with that too. We're an Ohlins approved shop and know a thing or two there, but it wasn't playing nicely until we raised it back up and reverted back to stock, then it was just fine.
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:42 AM   #1536
taehome
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The right side "tank" shroud has a small crack in it from where a kangaroo successfully jumped over the top of me at 60mph.



It's not everyday that you read something like that.
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Old 07-22-2009, 02:52 PM   #1537
mulgathumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taehome
The right side "tank" shroud has a small crack in it from where a kangaroo successfully jumped over the top of me at 60mph.



It's not everyday that you read something like that.
Kangaroos (or Roos as we call them) are a constant danger for dirt bikes, especially when you are blasting along fence lines.
I have had a couple of reasonably big get-offs after hitting them over the years. I think 3 guys on dirt bikes were killed in our State alone last year due to Roos.
I had one come in halfway through the windscreen in a Toyota Landcruiser pickup one night. THAT was interesting!

Still haven't got around to checking the fork to fender clearance yet. It will have to wait for the weekend
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:31 PM   #1538
Some Dude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulgathumper
Kangaroos (or Roos as we call them) are a constant danger for dirt bikes, especially when you are blasting along fence lines.
I have had a couple of reasonably big get-offs after hitting them over the years. I think 3 guys on dirt bikes were killed in our State alone last year due to Roos.
I had one come in halfway through the windscreen in a Toyota Landcruiser pickup one night. THAT was interesting!

Still haven't got around to checking the fork to fender clearance yet. It will have to wait for the weekend
Going off of BMW's stated front travel of 11.8" and the fact that there is approximately 13.3" of clearance between the oem front tire and mud gaurd when the bike is on a frame lift, that leaves 38.1mm of clearance at full compression/bottom out if fork caps are flush (I just measured one on the sales floor) I would want at least 10mm of clearance between maximum tread and mud gaurd myself (occassional rock or debris that may get caught in tire lugs) leaving less then 30mm you can slide the forks up without serious potential consequence. I swapped springs out in my G450X today, but did not have the extra time to remove handle bars and such to duplicate your setup as my bars are forward and directly over the fork tube caps.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:31 PM   #1539
WikdBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulgathumper
Kangaroos (or Roos as we call them) are a constant danger for dirt bikes, especially when you are blasting along fence lines.
I have had a couple of reasonably big get-offs after hitting them over the years. I think 3 guys on dirt bikes were killed in our State alone last year due to Roos.
I had one come in halfway through the windscreen in a Toyota Landcruiser pickup one night. THAT was interesting!

Still haven't got around to checking the fork to fender clearance yet. It will have to wait for the weekend
Wallabies in my area.
They always freak me out when they jump out of the bush right in front of you.
They just have no respect!
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:26 PM   #1540
brommer
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My radiator wasnt connected to the frame!! 3 of the 4 circlips and washers where gone.....
I bought the OEM washers and circlip (these are round and fully closed) but how the hell do you get the circlip lock on....
the one circlip that was there was a open circlip wuth no washer behind it.... strange...

any thought on how to put the circlip on...
im going to buy open circlip s tommorow.
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Old 07-24-2009, 01:54 PM   #1541
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You have only lost One circlip Brommer.

There are only 2 circlips and washers that hold the radiator in place at the top attachment.
The lower attachments points just sit inside the rubber grommet without circlips. See your Repom CD and it will show you.

The OEM circlip is an open type (not fully round). I would try to get this type as a fully enclosed circlip would be a proper bitch to install, as it is hard to get circlip pliers in there.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:55 PM   #1542
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Thats strange, in the ETK of the reprom it shows that there are 4 connections 2 top and 2 bottom.
I orderd the partnumbers of the ETK and got closed circlips!!

but if i look in the repair manual of the reprom then i see the open circlips!!???

going to the hardware shop on the corner to buy open circlips, it to much time to go to the dealer again.
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Old 07-26-2009, 02:01 AM   #1543
mulgathumper
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OK.
I finally got around to undoing the fork caps and letting the forks bottom out down to the stop to check the wheel to guard (fender for you US guys)clearance.
As it turns out there is adequate clearance.
The greatest clearance is at the critical guard attachment point (about 22mm clearance) where any bottoming out would lock up the wheel.

There is less clearance at both ends of the guard (about 6mm), but this is not crtitical as the plastic can bend easily if it gets fouled.
Some photos attached to demonstrate




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Old 07-26-2009, 04:22 AM   #1544
brommer
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How do you grease the shaft?
pump it from right to left until you see the old grease come out at the left side.
or fill it up from each side?

my 90 deegree nippel is of no use(to short, need an straight one 180degrees) on the left side of the bike, on the right side it just fits, there i pumped it trought, until the grease came out on the left side.(wich was black not nice clean yellow).
to bad i ran out of fresh grease so not all the black stuff got out. buy new grease tommrow.

brommer screwed with this post 07-26-2009 at 04:32 AM
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:26 AM   #1545
WikdBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brommer
How do you grease the shaft?
pump it from right to left until you see the old grease come out at the left side.
or fill it up from each side?

my 90 deegree nippel is of no use(to short, need an straight one 180degrees) on the left side of the bike, on the right side it just fits, there i pumped it trought, until the grease came out on the left side.(wich was black not nice clean yellow).
to bad i ran out of fresh grease so not all the black stuff got out. buy new grease tommrow.
I just got a long straight nipple and do one side at a time, with the opposite side screw installed when I pump in the grease.

Mulga, you have a two storey shed ?
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