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Old 07-17-2012, 08:44 AM   #15076
wingam00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
I have crashed numerous times and haven't broke a factory blinker yet. The trick is to mount them such that they can move a bit when pushed, either by hand or the ground.
And how are you doing this?
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wingam00 screwed with this post 07-17-2012 at 10:35 AM
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:24 PM   #15077
Psycho18th
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I have the Tusk stick owns from Rocky Mountain and they've worked great and hang on well. They are pretty small though.


Sorry the bikes still a bit crusty from the weekend adventure.
Psycho
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:42 PM   #15078
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
I use these on both of my bikes:

http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product...ors/web1006864

They are stick-on only, which I don't trust, so I drill a little hole through them and put a bolt in for good measure. I still break the lenses occasionally when I crash, but it's better than constantly breaking the entire stalk on a regular blinker.

There is a mini version set of these. I used them for years never broke 1. I did have the bulb/base corrode so bad it didn't work but that was 4 years in Vancouver... They were only $20. I have yet to find a decent reliable LED. Most rattle apart or get broken quickly. I have a rear brake with integrated signals now. This is year 2 but only 4-5 miles maybe(?).
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:10 AM   #15079
Ed~
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E forks disassembly help...

Sorry I couldn't find the info in a search of this thread, but I would appreciate anyone who could lead me in the right direction for just changing the oil for some E forks I intend to replace for my 2000 S model.

Seems the caps don't just come off and the spring slide out like the S forks... and I don't have the manual for the E. Can't find the answer anywhere on a Google search either.

Any leads on an online manual or directions on how to remove the cap and springs if it's simple?

Thank's y'all!
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:50 AM   #15080
generatordave
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smell of raw gas ?

Hey fellow inmates and misfits,
I have a 2012 400 that I got recently and put 400 miles on it so far.

I have found that often I will get a whiff of raw fuel when I shut it down and get off.

I called the dealer and his only reply was he heard that from another new drz owner but no answer.

I told the dealer I will have him dig into that at its first break in/service oil change at 600 miles.

my only thought was excessive fuel getting by the main jet to the air box vs the intake? it's not the bowl vent as the overflow tube is dry. no leaks, petcock is fine. bike runs great

any thoughts would be appreciatted

thanks, Dave
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:28 AM   #15081
kpt4321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed~ View Post
Sorry I couldn't find the info in a search of this thread, but I would appreciate anyone who could lead me in the right direction for just changing the oil for some E forks I intend to replace for my 2000 S model.

Seems the caps don't just come off and the spring slide out like the S forks... and I don't have the manual for the E. Can't find the answer anywhere on a Google search either.
S forks and E forks are the same, at least for the bikes that I have taken apart. I think at one point the S didn't have damping adjustability, but that only changes the process slightly.

For changing the oil, you just unscrew the caps (I loosen them on the bike, after loosening the top triple, while the bottom triple is still tight), lift them, unscrew the damper rod from the cap (hold nut with one wrench, maybe a 14 or 17, turn the cap), and dump the oil out. You can take the spring out and pump the damper rod as necessary to drain them. Reassembly is the opposite; hardest part is compressing the spring and getting the cap screwed back onto the damper rod, but that's really not too bad.

The process is basically the same for any bike with conventional forks, and very similar for USD forks. The only difference is the size of the fasteners and whether or not the damper rods are hollow to allow a rebound adjuster to fit inside them (my E model has these).

Don't forget to put the damping adjuster rods back in (I know this from experience).

Is there something specific you're having trouble with? I should be no different than S forks, which are very similar to the forks on my KDX, or a KLR, or an SV, or....
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:58 AM   #15082
Jon B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
S forks and E forks are the same, at least for the bikes that I have taken apart. I think at one point the S didn't have damping adjustability, but that only changes the process slightly.

For changing the oil, you just unscrew the caps (I loosen them on the bike, after loosening the top triple, while the bottom triple is still tight), lift them, unscrew the damper rod from the cap (hold nut with one wrench, maybe a 14 or 17, turn the cap), and dump the oil out. You can take the spring out and pump the damper rod as necessary to drain them. Reassembly is the opposite; hardest part is compressing the spring and getting the cap screwed back onto the damper rod, but that's really not too bad.

The process is basically the same for any bike with conventional forks, and very similar for USD forks. The only difference is the size of the fasteners and whether or not the damper rods are hollow to allow a rebound adjuster to fit inside them (my E model has these).

Don't forget to put the damping adjuster rods back in (I know this from experience).

Is there something specific you're having trouble with? I should be no different than S forks, which are very similar to the forks on my KDX, or a KLR, or an SV, or....
I think that's true *except for the 2000 model* which has different forks for the 'E'. At least I think that;s what my Clymer book states...

Jon
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:06 AM   #15083
Ed~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B. View Post
I think that's true *except for the 2000 model* which has different forks for the 'E'. At least I think that;s what my Clymer book states...
Jon
Howdy 955616846, Kpt4321, Jon B,
Thank you all for the quick replies. I will go back in the garage and check out the internals again to see if I can't at least separate the cap from the internals by the instructions you've provided.

Yes, the 2000-2001 S forks are more like conventional forks I'm used to where the cap sits on a spacer atop the spring... the whole shebang slides out by merely unscrewing the cap from the top.

This is the first time I am looking at the internals of a this style fork off a DRZ-E. Without instruction or schematics in front of me, I'm like when the cap just didn't come off like I'm used to...

But good info. I'll see what I can do with your instructions.

I've also read the proper oil level is either 122mm OR 165mm from top with the forks compressed and the spring removed? Any consensus?

I've purchase enough 5wt fork oil for around 709ml or so per fork based on my research. I've heard folks using Mobil 1 ATF and have some of that as well but I don't weight much and would like lighter action in these forks.

Thanks again for the good info!
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Ed~ screwed with this post 07-18-2012 at 09:20 AM
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:21 AM   #15084
Mike_drz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine_mike View Post
Ok...So I'm in the process of un-fudging some wiring done to the headlight. The previous-previous owner put ATV bars on, hence neggating the left control switch and installing a toggle for the headlight. I'm in the process of installing a baja designs left control and trying to figure out how to properly rewire the headlight. Here's what I'm dealing with...






Does anyone have a picture of their headlight properly wired. The way mine was wired, it had the B/W wire cut and ran through the toggle, the yellow into an orange wire, and the white dangling.

BTW.....I suck at reading schematics...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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I think I ordered this left switch from baja. it's a drz400s's oem switch. I untwisted the hardness re-wiring them, the two dangling lines are 1. to low beam's postive - white 2. to high beam postive - yellow. the (center inside the lo/high beam switch) postive headlight input to the switch is yellow with white stripe. hope it's the same as your baja one
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:22 AM   #15085
kpt4321
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In any case, the instructions I gave should be correct. You just need to grab the nut that is on the damper rod (just put a wrench through a gap in the spring) and spin it down away from the cap. When you get to the bottom, you'll start unscrewing the rod itself, after which the cap will come off. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, only trick is holding the damper rod up and the spring down. Lots of ways to do this, but my trick is using a smaller wrench under the locking nut to keep it from dropping.

Racetech says 5 wt oil, 120mm from the top. As with all forks, this is measured with the springs, spacers, and washers removed, and the fork completely compressed.

Some people run ATF in their forks, but I believe in using the stuff designed specifically for the application. You need so little fork oil, and replace it so infrequently, that the cost savings is minimal, and the last thing I want to be doing is worrying about my forks, or getting fade, after pounding over whoops for 50 miles in an enduro or desert race.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:33 PM   #15086
letskeepriding
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RDZ front wheel

HI guys, I'm putting a DRZ front end on my DR650. I have the forks and clamps and axle but need a complete wheel, speedo drive, spacer & headlight bracket. If you have or know where I can find this stuff please let me know.

thanks for your help
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:12 PM   #15087
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letskeepriding View Post
If you have or know where I can find this stuff please let me know.
Ebay...I am planning to do the same project on my DR650 as well. I have most of the parts needed, i am just working too much.
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:40 AM   #15088
Ed~
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E forks oil change info

Good stuff, kpt4321!

Got'er done!

Yes, a 14mm crescent wrench will hold the nut between the springs to help break the caps loose with a 14mm socket on the cap top. Once they are loose, the wrench is no longer necessary as the caps can be spun on and off by holding with the finger. In fact, the second fork was easier to assemble when I discovered the spring could be pushed down before the dampener rod falls down full with oil and grabbed or held up by a few fingers of the same hand while the other hand spins the cap on the treads. Only at the end when you tighten the rod and cap will the wrench and socket be necessary again.

Forks had around 700ml of oil in there so I replaced it with 5w fork oil in roughly the same amount. I measured 4.8" from top, fully compressed, no spring.

For those of you who take the long tube out from the middle of the dampening rod, know there is also first a needle and then a spring that sits below that tube inside the rod! Lucky for me I poured the old oil into a glass measuring cup the first time and heard the "tink" to know not to just dump the oil without looking for parts at the bottom. Better just not to remove the tube while you carefully pump the old oil out with the forks upside down. Nothing gets lost that way.

Good to go!
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:41 AM   #15089
MotoTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Q View Post
I am looking for some small led blinkers that will go on my rear fender, maybe even stick ons? has any one got any good ideas as to what to get or what fits? When looking on amazon or ebay, it is very hard to tell how big they realy are.

Thanks for any help

Bob
Here's what I did when, after looking at the design of the stick-on-the-side-of-the-fender ones that came with my Tusk Enduro Kit revealed the LEDs would shine to the side not the rear. (they are trailer clearance lights)



the final mounting is a little different than this photo, but it gives the general idea.

In the end, I made an aluminum backing plate that mounted to the taillight extension and is under the license plate. I left room above the license plate for the signals to mount and made access holes for the wires. The inspection sticker also goes on this plate. It is very low profile, more visible than mounting them on the side of the fender, and seems to be a durable mount.


Here's a photo of the final implementation that I found in a recent ride report. The DRZ isn't the green bike.

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Old 07-19-2012, 02:14 PM   #15090
WayneJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
955616846,

How about showing us a photo or 2 of your tool tube air resevoir setup? That sounds interesting.
Sounds pretty dangerous to me.

OSHA Safety Hazard Information Bulletin on
the Use of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Pipe
in Above ground Installations


PVC air lines are deadly!!

I wouldn't want to be anywhere near that tool tube when it had 150 psi in it.
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