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Old 09-23-2008, 01:58 PM   #1516
Yokomo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breakfastofchampions
where do you live?
Kansas
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:11 AM   #1517
nikolic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilipepper
Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Someday though you'll want to take stuff apart and make sure everything is clean.
it was probably some s**t from the tank jaming the float valve. It hapens in my country a lot...
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:14 PM   #1518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilipepper
Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Someday though you'll want to take stuff apart and make sure everything is clean.
+1

It's easy enought to do but don't do it on a wim. Have your bench or table ready with towels or something similar so all the little parts don't go rolling off the side. Go slow and take your time-that will the fastest way. This is also a good time to adjust jetting if you've wanted to. I used two cans of carb cleaner on mine. It didn't make much difference in the performance but it gave me peace of mind. It's really dusty in the summers here.
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Old 09-24-2008, 09:43 PM   #1519
Thewrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slide
So you are saying you did do stoppies and Zook is right then in its assessment? What is your complaint? You did them, the bike broke due to that and Zook figured it out and initially denied warranty per the warranty agreement.

I"m not understanding what your issue is with the bike or Zook or the dealer.
No issue with the bike. Love it. No issue with the dealer. They went to bat for me. My concern was/is I have an RMZ derived front end and swingarm on a pretty killer dual sport. Being a dual sport, the bikes design and intent is to be ridden AGGRESSIVELY off road. Mine broke on the street and the Man read me the riot act. After all the hooplah Suzuki gave me a new subframe even after I had the broken one repaired. Thank you American Suzuki. My problem is there's no way in the world a stoppie broke a metal part designed and permitted to carry max gvwr OFFROAD and now anyone else with the same prob is on their own. Kinda sucks. Wondering if anyone had any insight into the factorys logic. Thats all
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:06 AM   #1520
canadius_maximus
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IMS tank - bottom attachment bolts

Hello DRZ'ers,

I bought a used IMS tank for my 2001 DRZ S model. Mounted the tank and the seat with no problem - and after reading about all the herniating some folks had, I was surprised it was relatively easy to get the seat to fit, given my liberal arts degree education.... :)

What I do have a problem with, though, is securing the bottom of the tank. Obviously, the bolt used to secure the now-defunct shroud is too short to go through the tank and into the radiator nut, so what did you folks do? What spec of bolt should I buy (and I'm guessing marine-grade, so it won't rust)? I have since given the shrouds and bolts away to another DRZ, so I don't have the pitch info anymore.

Thanks,

cm
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:10 AM   #1521
slide
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If you don't get an answer here, try TT. I have the Clark 4 gal tank which doesn't have this issue.
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:23 PM   #1522
RaY YreKa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250
+1

It's easy enought to do but don't do it on a wim. Have your bench or table ready with towels or something similar so all the little parts don't go rolling off the side. Go slow and take your time-that will the fastest way. This is also a good time to adjust jetting if you've wanted to. I used two cans of carb cleaner on mine. It didn't make much difference in the performance but it gave me peace of mind. It's really dusty in the summers here.
Cheers mate, I plan to find my way around the DRZ but I am not a good wrencher; a weasel in boxing gloves may have more dexterity
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:07 PM   #1523
rean1mator
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Wheel And Fork Compatibility

to any drz400 guru's out there, i've got a quick question.

I'm doing a drz400e(2004) Fork Swap on my Dr650SE.
Can anyone tell me what years front wheel are compatible with the '04 Fork?

Will a 2000 DRZ400e wheel work with an 04 fork?

Also anything i should know about the fork? i just bought one on ebay with 4k miles on it.

Should i get it serviced/revalved/resprung? i'm 150lbs no gear. commute on it as well as touring on/offroad.

thanks for any and all info!!
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:04 PM   #1524
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rean1mator
to any drz400 guru's out there, i've got a quick question.

I'm doing a drz400e(2004) Fork Swap on my Dr650SE.
Can anyone tell me what years front wheel are compatible with the '04 Fork?

Will a 2000 DRZ400e wheel work with an 04 fork?

Also anything i should know about the fork? i just bought one on ebay with 4k miles on it.

Should i get it serviced/revalved/resprung? i'm 150lbs no gear. commute on it as well as touring on/offroad.

thanks for any and all info!!
I think the E model forks & wheel stayed the same throughout the years.

You won't have to respring for your weight. The E models weigh about 280 ready to ride but the 650 is ???, fatter. I'm running the stock springs in my KLX400R and I weigh 175 w/o gear. Just change the oil for now (use 5wt). The DRZ forks are a huge upgrade from the stock 650 ones. You'll have compression and rebound adjustment. You won't need a fork brace as they are quite stout. Post pics when you're done.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:11 PM   #1525
rean1mator
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good info thanks! i will get the fork serviced and go from there.

also in looking for a front wheel will the rm or rmz front wheel work on the drz400 fork as well?

trying to increase my options as i look for a wheel for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250
I think the E model forks & wheel stayed the same throughout the years.

You won't have to respring for your weight. The E models weigh about 280 ready to ride but the 650 is ???, fatter. I'm running the stock springs in my KLX400R and I weigh 175 w/o gear. Just change the oil for now (use 5wt). The DRZ forks are a huge upgrade from the stock 650 ones. You'll have compression and rebound adjustment. You won't need a fork brace as they are quite stout. Post pics when you're done.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:07 AM   #1526
selaznog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus
Hello DRZ'ers,

I bought a used IMS tank for my 2001 DRZ S model. Mounted the tank and the seat with no problem - and after reading about all the herniating some folks had, I was surprised it was relatively easy to get the seat to fit, given my liberal arts degree education.... :)

What I do have a problem with, though, is securing the bottom of the tank. Obviously, the bolt used to secure the now-defunct shroud is too short to go through the tank and into the radiator nut, so what did you folks do? What spec of bolt should I buy (and I'm guessing marine-grade, so it won't rust)? I have since given the shrouds and bolts away to another DRZ, so I don't have the pitch info anymore.

Thanks,

cm
I had the same problem. After an hour of failure, I went to a bolt store and bought longer bolts. I don't remember the spec (2.75"?), but it was a fair bit longer than the one I started with. I know I bought more than one length so I wouldn't have to go back a second time.

I even had to bend one of the bolts so that it had a bow, otherwise it would not pass through all the holes and the spacer correctly.
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Old 09-27-2008, 01:43 PM   #1527
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus
Hello DRZ'ers,

I bought a used IMS tank for my 2001 DRZ S model. Mounted the tank and the seat with no problem - and after reading about all the herniating some folks had, I was surprised it was relatively easy to get the seat to fit, given my liberal arts degree education.... :)

What I do have a problem with, though, is securing the bottom of the tank. Obviously, the bolt used to secure the now-defunct shroud is too short to go through the tank and into the radiator nut, so what did you folks do? What spec of bolt should I buy (and I'm guessing marine-grade, so it won't rust)? I have since given the shrouds and bolts away to another DRZ, so I don't have the pitch info anymore.

Thanks,

cm
My IMS tank came with the correct length bolt. Did you buy it used? It's a metric thread, 6x1.0 and the length is 30mm (I think). It's about twice as long as the stocker. Might try loosening the radiator mount bolts (if you can get to them) so you can wiggle things into alignment. Also, a long, skinny #1 philips screwdrive can be used to align all the holes and the nut clip on the radiator in advance of bolt insertion.
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:34 AM   #1528
MOTARDJUNKIE
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Got a noob question...

Why to some forks on DR-Z's have the black collapsing rubber near the top of the front forks and some others have the plastic guards on in the bottom to protect the smooth shiny parts of the shock?

What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

Whats the swap or years they were produced?

Thanks in advance. I have tried finding some info but with 0 luck.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:03 AM   #1529
dr zook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTARDJUNKIE
Got a noob question...

Why to some forks on DR-Z's have the black collapsing rubber near the top of the front forks and some others have the plastic guards on in the bottom to protect the smooth shiny parts of the shock?

What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

Whats the swap or years they were produced?

Thanks in advance. I have tried finding some info but with 0 luck.
I guess youre refering to the upside down forks on the motard (DRZ400SM) models. Standard E's and S's come with the standard forks, up to 03 the E had better forks(more adjustable) than the S, now they are the same fork. Horses for courses , the sm upside down forks are valved for more of an onroad/motard bias, but do work well off road by report. The standard forks work well everywhere althogh if your a big bloke you may need heavier weight oil and or respringing.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:11 AM   #1530
06wrx
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Standard forks(S and E model) work well if the bike is an 03 or newer. I'm stuck with the crappy 2001 forks. :(
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