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Old 08-25-2012, 10:22 PM   #15511
Mike_drz
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: somewhere near the beach
Oddometer: 402
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Thanks...
That's not the finished product c'mon now . Like inmate JustGreg said :" There's nothing there a grinder and a flap disk cant remedy." I paint it yellow afterward...

It shall not not be given up even though it's a bit green
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:27 AM   #15512
jaumev
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Barcelona
Oddometer: 1,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
What seat do you have on that bike? Good lookin bike!
They did it in Barcelona. Is a little artisan specialized in bikes seats. I had an old OEM seat and ask him to make it more comfortable and it did perfectly, so now I have the OEM for enduro and this for long trips.
It’s wider only in the rear section and not interfered in standing up ride but comfy if you seat. It also is a bit higher.

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Old 08-26-2012, 04:25 PM   #15513
yosso
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Location: SW Missouri
Oddometer: 943
Cry Yet another stator failure story

Last week the DRZ wouldn't start after work, dead battery. Quick push start and I'm on my way home - get home battery still dead...not good.

I finally got around to checking the charging system this weekend. I've had the battery on a trickle charger all weekend, and supposedly it was at full charge (the little green light was lit).

I run through the diagnostic steps in the manual, and the regulated voltage didn't increase, in fact it dropped when the engine speed was increased.

Checked continuity of the generator, passed.

Checked no-load performance - FAIL - nothing at the connector. My assessment is that the stator failed, sound about right? Less than 2,000 miles on this motor (supposedly) .

Anyway, I have a good stator in my old motor (which had an epic failure) but I'm thinking about just spending the money on a new aftermarket stator.

I just changed my oil less than 1,000 miles back - can you lean the bike against a wall or something or does it need to be completely on it's side to minimize oil loss?

Done with my whining - off to the garage to lean the bike against the wall.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:37 PM   #15514
See-Three
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Yeah you can lean the bike over to replace the stator, with no oil loss to speak of...


Shot at 2012-07-10
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:54 PM   #15515
Rainshadow
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Every time i mess with my front end (front forks) i'll have to change oil/dust seals + fork oil, might is well it's apart and the oil 5w isn't that expansive so just go ahead & get it done.
Thanks DR650SEDDY! I've never changed the fork oil or oil/dust seals. Is it a complicated fix for a rookie wrench?
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:26 PM   #15516
HellSickle
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Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Thanks DR650SEDDY! I've never changed the fork oil or oil/dust seals. Is it a complicated fix for a rookie wrench?
It will involve some special tools to drive the new seals in.

I change my fork oil every year. I don't see the point in also changing the seals unless they are leaking. The forks aren't "already apart". You have to slam out the bushings & seals, a process that is very hard on bushings, so you need to replace those when you do the seals. It's probably ~$80 for seals & bushings.

If you have leaking seals, make sure you've fixed any nicks in the chrome that may have caused the leak.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:36 PM   #15517
DR650SEDDY
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Location: Phoenix,Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Thanks DR650SEDDY! I've never changed the fork oil or oil/dust seals. Is it a complicated fix for a rookie wrench?
Not really complicated it's just that it might take u a little longer the first time u do it. If u have the Claymer manual it's a plus. Be carefull when u plant in the oil seal make sure u got a special tool (like my brother Hellsickle mentionned) or u can improvise one with a PVC pipe and 2 hose clamps. I did one for my DR650 front forks it cost me $12 from Ace harware, and the nut welded on a T-bar that hold the bolt. (no picture available for now). On DR650 it's way easier to do the seal job. It took me 42 minutes to finsh them, from taking them off the bike & right back in place.

Quote:
If you have leaking seals, make sure you've fixed any nicks in the chrome that may have caused the leak
That was my delamma few months back but i let my mechanic deal with it cuz it looks like i could damage the chrome more than fixing it (first timer), very sensitve task.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:34 PM   #15518
Mike_drz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosso View Post
Last week the DRZ wouldn't start after work, dead battery. Quick push start and I'm on my way home - get home battery still dead...not good.

I finally got around to checking the charging system this weekend. I've had the battery on a trickle charger all weekend, and supposedly it was at full charge (the little green light was lit).

I run through the diagnostic steps in the manual, and the regulated voltage didn't increase, in fact it dropped when the engine speed was increased.

Checked continuity of the generator, passed.

Checked no-load performance - FAIL - nothing at the connector. My assessment is that the stator failed, sound about right? Less than 2,000 miles on this motor (supposedly) .

Anyway, I have a good stator in my old motor (which had an epic failure) but I'm thinking about just spending the money on a new aftermarket stator.

I just changed my oil less than 1,000 miles back - can you lean the bike against a wall or something or does it need to be completely on it's side to minimize oil loss?

Done with my whining - off to the garage to lean the bike against the wall.

are you sure it's the stator's problem? you need to put on a battery(dead or not) to measure the voltage, no loading = regulator FAIL


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Mike_drz screwed with this post 08-26-2012 at 11:40 PM
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:59 AM   #15519
yosso
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Location: SW Missouri
Oddometer: 943
Shop manual flowchart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_drz View Post
are you sure it's the stator's problem? you need to put on a battery(dead or not) to measure the voltage, no loading = regulator FAIL
Pulled the stator off, and it looks okay to me. I've got a spare regulator/rectifier so I'll reassemble and try it all again tonight.

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yosso screwed with this post 08-27-2012 at 10:29 AM Reason: Add diagnostic chart
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:22 AM   #15520
JJM
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Massachusetts
Oddometer: 31
A noobs first long ride

Hello one and all, I want to share my little jaunt with fellow DRZ riders, as you'll appreciate it. I've had my bike for about two months. A 2001 DRZ400S with a few mods here and there, including a seat I made. I took the bike on a long ride this week end. 245 miles north from Massachusetts to Maine to visit friends for the week end. Did the return trip yesterday. Maybe 1/3 of both trips was interstate. Didn't matter what it was I on, nor how fast I wanted to go, she handled it beautifully, though she is my first bike so I don't have anything to compare to.

Man I love my bike!
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:14 AM   #15521
Rainshadow
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Bend, Oregon
Oddometer: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
It will involve some special tools to drive the new seals in.

I change my fork oil every year. I don't see the point in also changing the seals unless they are leaking. The forks aren't "already apart". You have to slam out the bushings & seals, a process that is very hard on bushings, so you need to replace those when you do the seals. It's probably ~$80 for seals & bushings.

If you have leaking seals, make sure you've fixed any nicks in the chrome that may have caused the leak.
Thanks for the info HS. This is sort of bringing me back around to my original post about the forks. The local suspension shop will service and dial them in for me for $120 for the pair. Are the special tools going to set me back enough that I should just let the pros handle it?
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:48 AM   #15522
Jon B.
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Location: Kandiyohi County, Minnesota
Oddometer: 580
Used skid plate worth much?

I'm thinking of replacing the (unknown brand) skid plate on my 'E' with a Tonne's Racing beastly heavy-duty one. I bought one for another bike and it's an awesome piece of work.

Is a second-hand plate worth $50? $40? The new one is $107 or so, shipped. And well worth the money, in my opinion.

I like the width of the Tonne's, as it hangs well over the side-cases and water pump. The one on mine (PO installed it) fits very tight to the case. It's nice and narrow but I think the other would offer just a bit more protection.

Jon
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:06 AM   #15523
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
Oddometer: 10,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B. View Post
Is a second-hand plate worth $50? $40?
Depends on the plate. A pict would help.

Quote:
I like the width of the Tonne's, as it hangs well over the side-cases and water pump. The one on mine (PO installed it) fits very tight to the case. It's nice and narrow but I think the other would offer just a bit more protection.
Most aftermarket plates have at least some protection on the sides. As I recall the bike comes stock with a narrow little plate that just goes between the frame rails. Are you sure this isn't what you have? I doubt you'd get anything for that.

- Mark
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:37 PM   #15524
dasvis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B. View Post
I'm thinking of replacing the (unknown brand) skid plate on my 'E' with a Tonne's Racing beastly heavy-duty one. I bought one for another bike and it's an awesome piece of work.

Is a second-hand plate worth $50? $40? The new one is $107 or so, shipped. And well worth the money, in my opinion.

I like the width of the Tonne's, as it hangs well over the side-cases and water pump. The one on mine (PO installed it) fits very tight to the case. It's nice and narrow but I think the other would offer just a bit more protection.

Jon
ALL of Tonn's stuff is good. Try his rack too!
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:13 PM   #15525
The Toad
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Location, Location.
Oddometer: 1,122
Radiator guard that works with IMS tank ???

Im looking for a radiator guard that will work with my IMS 4 gallon tank. Ive read thru posts that have left me wondering what the best choice is???

Anyone with personal experience installing/using guards with the IMS tank???

thanks in advance.
-Brian
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