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Old 09-23-2012, 12:53 PM   #15901
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I didn't say the 114 chain wouldn't work... I was commenting on a correction with false info.

It should be interesting to hear if the big block tyre works okay. I am thinking that it is probably designed for something like the much heavier 950/990 with their much wider rim. The tyre might be a bit stiff plus pinched by the narrow rim with excessive rounding of the profile demanding lower than ideal pressures.

No problem, I really didnt read previous posts in depth. Just saying what I am using is all.
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:51 PM   #15902
JustGreg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
So, you don't reckon that by the time it has gotten to this point something is completely and utterly shagged and there is the risk of doing damage...

What I recon is, the chain is stretched. I also had sense enough to confirm it. I added 1/8" to the overall length of the tensioner. Its not enough movement to cause a problem but, it did cure one until I can get a MCCT and a new chain.

How much adjustment does the MCCT have? And how do you know when youre adjusted too far because something's shagged? Ive never dealt with adjusting a MCCT. Ive only seen pics of them and the ones Ive seen seem to have alot more adjustment than the overall travel of my ACCT.
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:18 PM   #15903
reddirtjoe
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Location: Let's Ride some red dirt!!.... NorthCentOklahoma
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Anyone have a Stator side cover for sale?
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:29 PM   #15904
phoneman
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Location: southwest Georgia
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If 14/47 will let me use the stock chain I'll give it a try. I don't plan on running pavement very much--just between dirt roads--and 55-60 mph down the road at a reasonable rpm will be good enough. Thanks again guys.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #15905
focallength
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Can I remove it?

Ok (as if you were sitting on the bike) there is a black plastic box that sits to the right of the carbeurator two lines go into it. One from the top of the valve case the other line goes from the top right rear of the cylinder. One line goes from the box to the air box boot (boot between the air box and carb. Line goes from the box to the top if the boot on the left side of the bike about 2 inches in front of the air box)

Now I know that oil can come out of the valve cover hose, but im guessing these are just vent hoses. Do they bring air into the valve cover and piston or do they vent air. Do they suck or blow?

Can I pull the box and route the valve/cylinder hoses to the bottom of the bike and plug the boot hole? Will they blow oil? (doubt it) or do they suck air in and thus they need to be protected from sucling in water?

Second I may have gotten oil into the fuel through the carb. Any concerns?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:18 PM   #15906
jackpiner57
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Thanks Mike, but I'd just dump a little Toluene into the tank to compensate for the additional load.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_drz View Post
humm, very nice point but still needs a few corrections, it's 114 links to be stock wheelbase length more waste of money + addition sprockets weight gain

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Old 09-24-2012, 08:17 AM   #15907
Plane Dr
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Location: North TX Metromess
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
Ok (as if you were sitting on the bike) there is a black plastic box that sits to the right of the carbeurator two lines go into it. One from the top of the valve case the other line goes from the top right rear of the cylinder. One line goes from the box to the air box boot (boot between the air box and carb. Line goes from the box to the top if the boot on the left side of the bike about 2 inches in front of the air box)

Now I know that oil can come out of the valve cover hose, but im guessing these are just vent hoses. Do they bring air into the valve cover and piston or do they vent air. Do they suck or blow?

Can I pull the box and route the valve/cylinder hoses to the bottom of the bike and plug the boot hole? Will they blow oil? (doubt it) or do they suck air in and thus they need to be protected from sucling in water?

Second I may have gotten oil into the fuel through the carb. Any concerns?
This is the air/oil seperator. If you pull it you will start smoking and go through oil like crazy. Some bikes have them built in (CR, YZ) but it is external on the DRZ. I say smoking as the S/SM routes the dry vent to the airbox (based on your description it sounds like what you have), E's dump it overboard in front of the rear tire.

If you go BB or BB/stroker it is undersized as it is adequate for stock only. It does reduce oil consumption big time even on built engines.

There have been a few gents who have mucked with them, but I have never seen anything I would try on my bike. Feel free though....
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:06 AM   #15908
LittleRedToyota
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoneman View Post
If 14/47 will let me use the stock chain I'll give it a try. I don't plan on running pavement very much--just between dirt roads--and 55-60 mph down the road at a reasonable rpm will be good enough. Thanks again guys.
yes...you can use the stock chain with 14/47. as a bonus, it shortens up your wheelbase and makes it easier to do 3rd gear wheelies. (if you don't like the shortened wheelbase, you can run a 114 link chain and get the rear tire back to the end of the range.)

i routinely hit 70+ mph (at least according to the speedo) on the highway with my 14/47 geared DRZ-s. it is a little higher in the RPM range than i would like at that speed, but it still has more room left if i twist the throttle more. you don't need to fear running 60mph all day long with 14/47 gearing.

(and 14/47 is way better than stock S gearing in the dirt. it's the highest gearing i would consider for the types of trails we have around here. 14/51 or something like that would be even better.)
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:33 PM   #15909
phoneman
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: southwest Georgia
Oddometer: 54
Ordered the 14/47 combo from Rocky Mountain this morning. Along with a skidplate, bar risers, and some other stuff.
What case protectors are you guys using ? Don't need a brake/shift lever poking a hole in something important.
3rd gear wheelies sound like fun
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:09 PM   #15910
Xylx
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Idaho
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Thanks to all farkle enablers

I wanted to thank all the farkle enablers for their invaluable assistance. I finally got my DRZ back together after 4 months of it being in pieces. I had my BMW to ride this summer although I barely got out due to work.
Here's what I did with thanks to specific tipsters.

Clake 3.9 tank. Great tips on the raptor petcock. Real problem for me is remembering to turn it ON. Washing the bits out before mounting the tank saved me some time somewhere in the woods I'm sure. Hard to mount up the saddle to it. Not sure why. Carving a little plastic off the seat helped get it under the Clarke mount.

Low profile turn signals and rear plate light. Good advice to SOLDER don't use the connectors. Kinda hard to unsolder connections when you screw up (which I did on the front signals when I forgot they had to go on the mount FIRST), but they aren't coming loose.

Sidestand disconnect. Thanks whoever posted the photos. Made it much easier. I just bought another switch off ebay then soldered the wires together.

Fisher saddle. Great guy. I'm lucky to live within 15 miles of him.

Case protectors. Haven't put them on yet. But I've got the BLACK loctite and I filed off the shifter sharp point. I can't believe it comes from the factory like that.

Pro moto billet rack. Nice but not neccesary. There's some good ones for half the price.

Dunlop Scorpion front. I spent a long time going through the tire debate. I'm sticking with the rear which isn't street legal, but whatever. I don't ride the street with this bike much. It's only a mile to the dirt from where I live and I can go to Canada without having to go very far on a paved road.

Happy Trails skid plate. Thanks for the advice on buying and mounting

Twin Air air filter. Might change it for a K&N.

3x3 mod. Photos very helpful. Youtube videos good too.

13 tooth cog and 46 rear. No. I'm not joining the trials forum. Yet.

Anything I missed? New bars I suppose. Need a Vapor speedo because this is a SM conversion.

I'll go into farkle rehab this winter. I promise.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:13 PM   #15911
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoneman View Post
What case protectors are you guys using ?
Try these (any protection better than none)>CFC OFFROAD ENGINE ARMOR- DRZ400 / KLX400 " All Years" / No Logo SM's Also
Make sure to use blue Permatex to stick them. (Ace harware or the like have them).
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:47 PM   #15912
LittleRedToyota
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoneman View Post
What case protectors are you guys using ? Don't need a brake/shift lever poking a hole in something important.
i have thumpertalk ones.

a lot of people use the CFC ones as well.

this is what i used to glue them on:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ve_Sealant.htm

it goes on nice and thick and provides some cushioning effect between the case and the case protector.

LittleRedToyota screwed with this post 09-24-2012 at 06:54 PM
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:14 PM   #15913
Fictitious
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Location: British Columbia
Oddometer: 202
Heya Chaps and Chappettes,

My DRZ did something rather odd on my commute home today. I was riding about 60-70 kph and the bike just died on me. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start her up again, but she wouldn't go. The sound the starter was making was kind of laboured and kind of like it wasn't catching, if you know what I mean. So I turned the ignition on and off flicked the kill switch to make sure it was on; still no luck starting. I tried turning the gas to reserve and hit the starter a couple more times, nothing seemed to be happening, but then it seemed to catch a little and it started with a backfire. It ran for a few seconds and then quit. I gave it a couple more cranks and it started again and this time stayed running.

I then went to a gas station and filled up, hoping that maybe I had just forgotten to reset the trip when I last filled, but no luck there, it only needed about 2.5 litres of fuel to the top of the tank. It started just fine after that though. It was fine for the rest of the 20 or so minute ride home.

The bike is a 2005 DRZ400S with 20,000kms on it. Mostly stock, I believe the PO took off the snorkle and had a shop rejet it, but I think those are the only mods that has been done to it.

Any ideas anyone?
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:48 PM   #15914
ifixfords
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Location: Fuquay Varina
Oddometer: 277
Picked up another DRZ! 2004 s model with sm forks. Kind of rough, but it runs great, strong clutch and gears are smooth. Only $1500. :)
I plan on doing a stealth model, completely black with super quiet exhaust.



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Old 09-24-2012, 09:22 PM   #15915
bobbed06
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fictitious View Post
Heya Chaps and Chappettes,

My DRZ did something rather odd on my commute home today. I was riding about 60-70 kph and the bike just died on me. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start her up again, but she wouldn't go. The sound the starter was making was kind of laboured and kind of like it wasn't catching, if you know what I mean. So I turned the ignition on and off flicked the kill switch to make sure it was on; still no luck starting. I tried turning the gas to reserve and hit the starter a couple more times, nothing seemed to be happening, but then it seemed to catch a little and it started with a backfire. It ran for a few seconds and then quit. I gave it a couple more cranks and it started again and this time stayed running.

I then went to a gas station and filled up, hoping that maybe I had just forgotten to reset the trip when I last filled, but no luck there, it only needed about 2.5 litres of fuel to the top of the tank. It started just fine after that though. It was fine for the rest of the 20 or so minute ride home.

The bike is a 2005 DRZ400S with 20,000kms on it. Mostly stock, I believe the PO took off the snorkle and had a shop rejet it, but I think those are the only mods that has been done to it.

Any ideas anyone?
Sounds like you dropped a valve..or a valve is on its way out. Compression test time.
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