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Old 10-09-2012, 08:30 PM   #16051
TRZ Charlie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine_mike View Post
Swapped out my white brothers exhaust for a stock one...all is quiet now. Damn carb keeps flooding and overflowing with fuel though, so I just ordered a rebuild kit. I can't say that I'm looking forward to pulling the carb. It's alot more of a detailed job than I am used to doing. I'm not going to rejet just yet because I just got my endorsement and I figured I'd get a feel for it first before I go modding the carb.
The easiest procedure (for me) for removing the carburetor is below. While your carb is out for the rebuild why not re-jet?

The following procedure looks complicated but it's really not.

1. Remove the seat and side plastics

2. Remove any pannier racks from the frame and sub-frame

3. Loosen the lower sub-frame bolts but don't remove

4. Loosen and remove the upper subframe bolts (you will remove them in step 10.)

5. Remove the fuel and vent lines from the carb

6. Loosen the upper nuts on the throttle cables. Leave the bottom ones alone to help index where the throttle cables were previously adjusted.

7. Remove the throttle cables from the carburetor taking note of which is the front cable and which is the back.

8. Loosen the carb boot clamp between the motor and carb

9. Loosen the carb boot clamp between the carb and airbox

10. Remove the upper sub-frame bolts then spread the sub-frame from the main frame

11. Wiggle the carb out and do whatever you need to.

12. Reverse the process to re-install. Use a light coating of grease on the boots (leading edges) to help with the re-installation of the carb.

TRZ Charlie screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 08:36 PM
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #16052
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine_mike View Post
Swapped out my white brothers exhaust for a stock one...all is quiet now..
U can always use Db Dawg silencer+spark arrestor without compromising the performance of ur muffler.
http://www.hyderacing.com/db_dawg.htm
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:13 AM   #16053
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by payback View Post
I just put on some new rad guards (Flatland racing) and my horn seems to be really muffled , barely audible....... Why ?

Also are there any good upgraded horns
for the drz?


thanks.
You probably have something touching the horn. Check for clearances.

If I'm doing much street on a given bike, I'll get a car horn from the auto parts store. That requires the addition of a relay.
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:22 PM   #16054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Hmmm, okay. That's interesting. Are you sure it is not just carrying a small LiFe pack inside the air box or elsewhere on the bike?

Right on top of the air filter inside the air box, I think there are enough space for a LiFe pack drill a few holes underneath ecu, to put zip ties to secure the pack. use dean plugs or rc car connectors, it can save big time to remove, recharge or simply disconnect
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:41 AM   #16055
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
On the E model the box vents to atmosphere.

On the S the box vents to the Air box boot which effectively feeds your engine a VERY small amount of warm synthetic or petroleum based mist. Not much advantageadmittedly but it will leak oil onto the swing arm, shock and maybe to the brake disc.

They both (E & S) have the same box just a different hose routing for the box vent

Shedding the box for weight reduction is a non event. It weighs next to nothing.
I hear ya... I had mine dump a bit of oil one time when the zip tie that holds the "t" up broke and t fell a little. Other than that the only oil leakage I have is one drop on the ground every time I shut the bike off. I ha e the drain hose coming down and it ends just below the shock linkage... dog bones. I didn't remove mine for weight saving I removed it to access my fcr carb easier.



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Old 10-11-2012, 07:30 PM   #16056
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DRZ400E ride report video - Lobsters in Puerto Nuevo, Baja California

Hello fellow DRZers, I thought I'd share this here for you guys. I hope you enjoy it!

My E handled the trails superbly and I caught myself hauling the mail in certain sections. I really need to get my stabilizer rebuilt cause I smacked a few of those rocks pretty hard while moving at speed. We had a range of bikes from my E all the way to a Scrambler 900cc.

What do you guys think of the video? Hows the length, editing, footage and/or song? I appreciate your thoughts and advice because I want to make the most entertaining ride report videos that I can.

Length 2:35. Watch in 720p for best picture




.

.

.

My E



The Lobster


The Route



I ran this loop round trip from my house in San Diego. Pretty awesome and it was my first time riding in Mex. Rock on DRZers!

Goofy Footer screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 11:23 AM Reason: added pictures
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:35 AM   #16057
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What advantage does a steering stabilizer have on a bike such as a DRZ-S besides reducing funds in my bank account? Okay it stabilizes steering. What does that actually mean?
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:31 AM   #16058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coarsegoldkid View Post
What advantage does a steering stabilizer have on a bike such as a DRZ-S besides reducing funds in my bank account? Okay it stabilizes steering. What does that actually mean?

They slow down those quick bar movements when you hit square-edged obstacles like rocks and other similar impediments. When set properly you don't even know you have one until it kicks in, and even then you don't really feel it it just quietly does its job. I love mine.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:39 AM   #16059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coarsegoldkid View Post
What advantage does a steering stabilizer have on a bike such as a DRZ-S besides reducing funds in my bank account? Okay it stabilizes steering. What does that actually mean?
The first two replies describe what a stabilizer/dampner does. Watch the bike's reaction when I slam into that at 1:34 of the video. That handlebar (and bike jerk) is what a a stabilizer/dampner slows down. Its hard to see in the video but I was caught off guard and nearly got bucked off the bike. Running fast for miles through those rocks, I was bound to hit one.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:24 AM   #16060
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Hi guys, hoping to be a new DRZ400S owner here very soon,

The bike im looking it needs a oil change ASAFP, so i got a few questions for you guys,

hoping to be a part of this great thread you guys got going here, will join in on the conversation and topics daily once i am an owner, please help me out with these questions, will be greatly appreciated, all opinions needed and welcome

1. i watched a youtube vid on a oil change for a DRZ400SM, im assuming its the same exact process for the DRZ400S?

2. needs 2 full quarts to be full? can i use full synthetic 10w-40 like ive been using in the bike i just sold, cause i read alot about using 15w-50, what grade does the manual call for?

3. do i need to get 2 new crush washers and a new oil filter rind each and every oil change? and if so, where is the best and most affordable place to order those 2 crush washers and the oil filter and oil fiter o ring?

4. how do i change the coolant? and with what coolant? this will be my first water cooled bike, all my past ones have always been air cooled.

Ill start with these questions for now, as that is what i think the bike needs right away, thanks.

ron.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:34 AM   #16061
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Stabiliser? I prefer damper. It will dampen oscillations and absorb impacts in the same way a shock does.

It reduces head shakes, but mostly keeps the wheel pointed in the right direction on impacts to the wheel or bars. You'd notice the benefits in gnarly rocky or rutted ground... or if a bar end clips a tree (within reason!) or cars(!) at speed just to mention a couple of scenarios.

Some use them as a fix for poor riding technique in for example sand. Others use them as a band-aid fix for a badly behaving bike. If the suspension is not as good as it can be then empty your wallet into that before worrying about a damper.

Until you identify a need, you probably won't benefit from one.
Even after dialing in the suspension on my DRZ, it still had some spooky handling characteristics where the front end would kick out once in a while. A Scotts solved most of that problem.

As mentioned, stabilizers quietly do their job. You may not notice much difference when you first install one. It's when you remove it or hop on a buddies bike without one that you have the OMG moment.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:54 AM   #16062
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1. i watched a youtube vid on a oil change for a DRZ400SM, im assuming its the same exact process for the DRZ400S?

Yes

2. needs 2 full quarts to be full? can i use full synthetic 10w-40 like ive been using in the bike i just sold, cause i read alot about using 15w-50, what grade does the manual call for?

I believe it calls for 1700mL but I use 2 quarts of 20w-50. I use this stuff:



Its cheap, available just about everywhere, and my bike seems to like it. I treat my S like a real dirt bike so the oil gets changed often.


3. do i need to get 2 new crush washers and a new oil filter rind each and every oil change? and if so, where is the best and most affordable place to order those 2 crush washers and the oil filter and oil fiter o ring?

I do. I order 5-10 washers at a time and the Wix filters I buy come with both o-rings. You can also use copper sealing washers (you need a 10mm and 12mm) which won't need to be replaced as often. They can be sourced from Honda if you have trouble finding them.

4. how do i change the coolant? and with what coolant? this will be my first water cooled bike, all my past ones have always been air cooled.

I use Engine Ice for coolant. Its non-toxic and biodegradable, which makes sense in a dirt bike that could spill some. Its also road race legal, which will be required if you ever ride a track.



To drain, pull the cap and remove the drain screw on the right side of the engine near the water neck. To fill, replace the screw and refill the radiators. There is a bleed screw at the thermostat if you have trouble burping all the air out.
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ptgarcia screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 10:02 AM
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:57 AM   #16063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Which video?
This video from my post a few post backs http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=16483

The rock I hit at @1:34 represents the ideal scenario where a rider could benefit from a stabilizer (granted not hitting the rock would have worked too). I got jerked rather hard and nearly bucked off the bike. My Scotts is off the bike as it needs to be rebuilt. In that instance I wish I would have had it on the bike.





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Old 10-12-2012, 10:01 AM   #16064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post

3. do i need to get 2 new crush washers and a new oil filter rind each and every oil change? and if so, where is the best and most affordable place to order those 2 crush washers and the oil filter and oil fiter o ring?

I do. I order 5-10 washers at a time and the Wix filters I buy come with both o-rings. You can also use copper sealing washers (you need a 10mm and 12mm) which won't need to be replaced as often. They can be sourced from Honda if you have trouble finding them.
I did not realize WIX made filters to fit the DRZ. Thanks for the info!
Can get them from Oreily's or a similar shop? Do you know the filter# by chance?

I use WIX on my Tacoma.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:06 AM   #16065
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Exactly the same as the SM.
I believe the manual says 10W40, but it'll take pretty much whatever MC oil you care to put in it.
Heat your existing crush washers over a flame (gas stove will do) to red and air cool if they haven't been brutalised.
thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
1. i watched a youtube vid on a oil change for a DRZ400SM, im assuming its the same exact process for the DRZ400S?

Yes

2. needs 2 full quarts to be full? can i use full synthetic 10w-40 like ive been using in the bike i just sold, cause i read alot about using 15w-50, what grade does the manual call for?

I believe it calls for 1700mL but I use 2 quarts of 20w-50. I use this stuff:



Its cheap, available just about everywhere, and my bike seems to like it. I treat my S like a real dirt bike so the oil gets changed often.


3. do i need to get 2 new crush washers and a new oil filter rind each and every oil change? and if so, where is the best and most affordable place to order those 2 crush washers and the oil filter and oil fiter o ring?

I do. I order 5-10 washers at a time and the Wix filters I buy come with both o-rings. You can also use copper sealing washers (you need a 10mm and 12mm) which won't need to be replaced as often. They can be sourced from Honda if you have trouble finding them.

4. how do i change the coolant? and with what coolant? this will be my first water cooled bike, all my past ones have always been air cooled.

I use Engine Ice for coolant. Its non-toxic and biodegradable, which makes sense in a dirt bike that could spill some. Its also road race legal, which will be required if you ever ride a track.



To drain, pull the cap and remove the drain screw on the right side of the engine near the water neck. To fill, replace the screw and refill the radiators. There is a bleed screw at the thermostat if you have trouble burping all the air out.
Great, thank you very much, can you please give me the link to where you get your washers and oil filter from? is there a DRZ400S site that most buy their stuff from?

Ok, i was under the impression that the DRZ needed 15w-50 oil, glad that is not the case, good to see i can use 10w-40 or 20w-50 if id like, how often do you guys change your oil?
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