Drz400 Thread

[gone fishing]

Originally Posted by yosso

The DRC taillight comes with some "L" brackets and a triangular mounting plate. I used the "U" bracket that I "fabbed" to bolt the front of the triangle plate while the rear of the triangular plate was bolted to the two rear plastic tabs on the fender with the "L" brackets. The rear fender is an Acerbis part, so I don't know if the stock DRZE rear fender has something similar.

Good luck.

Cool. Thanks for going to the trouble of getting the pictures. That is exactly the same light and bracket that came with my bike. Hope you dont mind if I copy your setup.

[ohgood]

Originally Posted by 955616846

I bought an SM swing arm for my S... I got sick of the snail cam adjusters. As far as bolting an S wheel in it is dimensionally identical.

I'm confused.... the snails are bang on, one click adjustment, every time. how did they annoy you ?

also, did you keep the axle and snail ? I'm interested in any other drz bits you don't like !

[SuperTimmy]

Originally Posted by 150ron

Anybody wanna trade a 14T front sprocket for a 16T front sprocket? i have a 14 in like new shape id like to trade for a 16T front sprocket.

I have an almost new 16t I would be willing to trade you. What condition is your 14t? My 16t has a weekend worth of riding. I put it on for the 4hr ride to Uwharrie and was going to change it back once there, but just decided to run it....worked out great...just didn't feel like switching it out at the campsite. So, 4 hrs there, about 8 hours at Uwharrie, and 4hrs back. Let me know!

Feel free to email me about it- ikabaud22 at yahoo dot com. That would be great.... I am digging the white/blue on your bike and viper's!

SuperTimmy

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by 150ron

Nice looking bike viper210, i like that exhaust, thanks for the pic.

SuperTimmy, i was very interested in the shinko 700 series, i even started a thread to see which one was more off roadish, the 244's or 700 series, i think next tire set will be the 700's, thanks for the input.


Got the bike all back together today, 25pj, 147.5 mj, needle in 4th clip positon, stock exhaust uncorked, extended fuel screw, unabiker rad guards, TT case savers, uni air filter, trail tech engine temp meter, handlebar risers, edge taillight, small turn signals.. think the only thing my bike really NEEDS now is a aftermarket pipe

some pics of the new shinkos i just put on, rear went on fine, front i pinched the tube TWICE, , had to put on 2 patches at 2 seperate spots, lets hope it holds, been fine since the afternoon.








im actually glad i got the skinny front and fat rear tire, looks good imo.

What made you use a 147.5 main? I just jetted my bsr carb with a dynojet stage one needle on 4th clip, 25 pilot, extended fuel screw, and 142.5 main per the suggestions on TT and it was too lean. I changed to a 145 main cause I had one and its leaps and bounds better but I'm kinda wondering if I should try a 147.5. My bike is a e model with 3x3 and full yosh exhaust.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[150ron]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

What made you use a 147.5 main? I just jetted my bsr carb with a dynojet stage one needle on 4th clip, 25 pilot, extended fuel screw, and 142.5 main per the suggestions on TT and it was too lean. I changed to a 145 main cause I had one and its leaps and bounds better but I'm kinda wondering if I should try a 147.5. My bike is a e model with 3x3 and full yosh exhaust.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I talked to my local bike spot, and he said for a DRZ400S, to go 2 steps above main, which would be a 147.5, so thats what i did, top speed power is now great on the bike.

[150ron]

So all was fine, i then put in a 147.5mj instead of the stock 142.5, and a extended fuel screw from the TT store, also put in a 25 pilot jet, 3x3 mod done, uni air filter, stock exhaust un corked.

Bike pulled better at top speeds, but the idle was way off, could not get it to idle right no matter what i did, and i noticed a little fuel coming out of the overflow of the carb (not the carb drain screw exit, the other one on the bottom, that has a tube going to the bottom of the bike), so i then replaced the 25pj with the stock 22.5pj, and the idle was great again, but now i do not know why, the carb is leaking gas from that overflow spot, over night i left the fuel petcock to ON and it mustve dripped dropped like 20-30 drops of gas onto the garage floor, and when i go to start the bike, it wont start, like the starter is stuck or something, i have to drain out the gas from the carb drain screw, and then eventually it will start.

why is the carb letting in too much fuel to where its flooding the bike?

the floats move up and down just fine, and the carb is spotless, no dirt at all, could it be cause maybe my jet needle is shimmed too much and needs to be lowered down a bit?

please help me get this sorted, as ive taken out and reinstalled the carb like 4 times in this past weekend, the jetting seems to be spot on, bike runs great, its just this flooding problem.

[markjenn]

Originally Posted by 150ron

please help me get this sorted, as ive taken out and reinstalled the carb like 4 times in this past weekend, the jetting seems to be spot on, bike runs great, its just this flooding problem.

Sounds like a simple stuck float valve - you have to get this sorted before you can know anything about jetting.

Also, I hope your "stuck starter" issue after sitting overnight isn't being caused by hydrolock from excess fuel in your cylinder - if it is, then you're risking major engine damage trying to start it.

- Mark

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by 150ron

I talked to my local bike spot, and he said for a DRZ400S, to go 2 steps above main, which would be a 147.5, so thats what i did, top speed power is now great on the bike.

what needle are you using?

oh and your needle is leaking for the float and possibly the o-ring around the seat. also your petcock should be stopping fuel flow once the bike turns off so incase you have a failure like this it doesn't fill your engine full of fuel.

[150ron]

Originally Posted by markjenn

Sounds like a simple stuck float valve - you have to get this sorted before you can know anything about jetting.

Also, I hope your "stuck starter" issue after sitting overnight isn't being caused by hydrolock from excess fuel in your cylinder - if it is, then you're risking major engine damage trying to start it.

- Mark

yeah, im pretty sure the engine would'nt start cause it was flooded with gas, but after draining it, it did start up and ran fine, just got to get this sorted.

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

what needle are you using?

oh and your needle is leaking for the float and possibly the o-ring around the seat. also your petcock should be stopping fuel flow once the bike turns off so incase you have a failure like this it doesn't fill your engine full of fuel.

im using the FMF needle that was in the power up kit, clip in the 4th position, petcock works fine, as when the tank is on the bench and in the off positon, no drips at all.

so what should i be looking at according to this chart?

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oem...007&model=5203

i do not know much about carbs, just pretty much how to change out the jets, and the carb is spotless, no dirt or debris at all, and the float easily moves up and down, so its not stuck.

[150ron]

so im guessing this half stripped screw has to come off so i can remove the flaoting thing?



its allready half stripped and wont come out, when i try to remove it with pliers, it feels like im just going to break the top off,

[150ron]

got it all off



cleaned it up and back it back together, have the tank connected to the carb on the bench, so i can test it out and see if it still leaks, before i put it back in the bike.

[gots_a_sol]

Originally Posted by ohgood

I'm confused.... the snails are bang on, one click adjustment, every time. how did they annoy you ?

I'm swapping mine out for 2 reasons.

One is I find them to be a pain as it always seems one side likes to move a notch on me when I tighten the nut down.

The other reason is they are not aesthetically pleasing

[Gadget678]

Originally Posted by gots_a_sol

One is I find them to be a pain as it always seems one side likes to move a notch on me when I tighten the nut down.

I used to find the same thing..... I guess this is the reason that the standard tool kit has the 2 different sized tools for the axle. However, I got shown a trick a few years ago:

• Set the cams in the position you want them
• Shove a stick/tool/whatever between the chain and sprocket
• Roll the wheel backward until it has tension on it
• Recheck the cams
• Tighten the axle nut while keeping tension on the wheel

My sons bike has infinite adjusters, and it gives me the shits (But as he points out, that is just my opinion.)

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by 150ron

yeah, im pretty sure the engine would'nt start cause it was flooded with gas, but after draining it, it did start up and ran fine, just got to get this sorted.



im using the FMF needle that was in the power up kit, clip in the 4th position, petcock works fine, as when the tank is on the bench and in the off positon, no drips at all.

so what should i be looking at according to this chart?

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oem...007&model=5203

i do not know much about carbs, just pretty much how to change out the jets, and the carb is spotless, no dirt or debris at all, and the float easily moves up and down, so its not stuck.

Ah OK, should be the stage 1 Dyno kit then if I recall correctly. That 147.5 jet didn't come in the kit right? If it is the stage one I'm surprised your bike runs that good... you must be at sea level. I'm at sea level with a 145 main and my bike runs really strong now..... you have e thinking I should order a 147.5 and see how that does.


If I were you I think I'd change that o-ring on the seat. I had mine leak on my FCR a few years ago.

Also if your petcock is working properly the fuel shouldn't over flow like that. Maybe check your float height?



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[150ron]

Thanks, i just came back from orielly's and got a new oring, got it all set up on the bench right now with the fuel open to the carb, im hoping its not gonna leak anymore and that was the problem (crossing fingers)

the 147.4 i orderd from my local bike shop, it was $4.99, seems to run really well up on top, i see some go to 150-160mj's, but he suggested going 2 steps above stock, so the 147.5 it was.

the 25pj did not work well for me at all, took it out and the 22.5pj with the extended fuel screw at 2 1/2 turns out works really well.