Drz400 Thread

[DR650SEDDY]

Originally Posted by Psycho18th

Yes, looks like a fun trip. Trying to figure out about where you were riding...west of 17 off bumblebee maybe?
Anyway, looks like perfect dry terrain. That roadbook/directions thing on the bars looks interesting as well.
Psycho

From Cave creek take FR24 (seven spring rd) to the camp site. It's 0.7 mi. N. of the camp turn left.
There: https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=N...p=1&sz=18&z=16 at ballon (B) I turned right to head up the mountain cuz there was a closed gate there.
I end up here: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=33.99...num=1&t=h&z=17 with a dead end. It got rougher as i climbed up in elevation.
There are galore side trails in that area but they're mostly dead end.

[Tropic-Of-Canada]

Originally Posted by okietrailboss

anybody have starting issues under 50deg fahrenheit

Yes, All the time! I'm at about 50 feet above sea level, and Anywhere from 0c to +5c I can start it fine, but it stalls out on me way too much. Last night it was right on freezing, and I couldn't even get it to idle properly for almost 10 minutes...I almost ran the battery dead trying to keep it going.....Maybe I'll try some new antifreeze and new oil......

Someone mentioned jetting? what's an ideal winterizing procedure?

[DR650SEDDY]

Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007

Is there a way to stiffen up the back suspension on each, like an off road spring or something? It seems both need suspension work if you are taking it off road, but how much and how expensive is this endeavor?

Thanks DRZ folks!

Yes off course i use Eibach spring on my shock absorber it's stiffer than OEM (there's whole lot of other variety springs out there). My front ones are race tech. You can also dial ur rear/front suspension by adjusting rebound/compress. screw to ur type of riding you do (see owner manual). Check on ebay, i got my rear shock, mint condition for under $100.

[Starchamp]

Originally Posted by whitham_wannabe

Thanks!

I really like them, had no issues at all thus far. I also have a pair on my F800, and a 9 light bar on the Volvo that we use for TSD rallying. Very robust, lots of light and a low current draw.

Wiring is pretty conventional, they have their own power source off the battery, and I'm running a relay off the low beam circuit and secondary switch. I will probably put a Fuzeblock up in the fairing now (as I have on the 800), to neaten the wiring up a little more. Mounted them on the stock turn signal brackets, with turn signals in the handguards.

Thanks for the info! I've got a rally fairing that I'm planning to install, so I'm looking at some of Vision X's larger LED systems to fill out the headlight opening, and I thought about cramming 4-6 of the Solos in there, but I'm not sure I'll get the distance. Might have to look at something like the Xmitter Low Profile PX. Maybe even two.

[Achtung]

Originally Posted by Xylx

The full post has a nice shot of a rainbow trout that any flyfishing compulsive in the lower48 would die for. Too bad it costs $1m to move there.

My wife and I travelled there a few years back and my understanding was that if you have a desireable trade and aren't over 45, they'll welcome you. Probably still need $1M to buy a house though.

[Greg MacD]

Originally Posted by focallength

Ive pulled 90 in 14/45 gearing, 65/70 mph cruising comfortably

Gear for higher speeds and itll cruise 80 all day and night, no problems.

I'll agree, but 90 mph on my DRZ is a bit hairy, I will ride all day at 65 mph...and I am working with the stock gearing.

[jkm]

Can anyone tell me if the SM gas tank will bolt onto a S? I know that the 'E' won't bolt up to the 'S', but wasn't sure about the SM. Thanks...jkm

[thumpty dumpty]

Originally Posted by jkm

Can anyone tell me if the SM gas tank will bolt onto a S? I know that the 'E' won't bolt up to the 'S', but wasn't sure about the SM. Thanks...jkm

Yes, SM and S tanks are identical.

[Bad Daddy]

Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada

Yes, All the time! I'm at about 50 feet above sea level, and Anywhere from 0c to +5c I can start it fine, but it stalls out on me way too much. Last night it was right on freezing, and I couldn't even get it to idle properly for almost 10 minutes...I almost ran the battery dead trying to keep it going.....Maybe I'll try some new antifreeze and new oil......

Someone mentioned jetting? what's an ideal winterizing procedure?

What set-up are you running right now?

I have and 08 with the JD Jetting kit, and the Kientech idle screw that I did about a month ago. Starts, idles, etc perfectly last night at -1C.

Maybe I lucked out, but when I did the kit, I was amazed at how FAST it starts when warm.

Probably get it dynoed this spring to make sure it's spot-on, but right now I'm very happy with the way it runs.

[Danielmoben]

Originally Posted by thumpty dumpty

Yes, SM and S tanks are identical.

You can fix de E tank into a S model... At least 2004 models I did it with a little modification...


www.mobenmotorcycles.blogspot.com

[TDR400]

Sorry if this has been answered before. I am new to the list and am struggling with the search feature .........

Looking for a bolt on cover for the muffler that keeps my Gears bag from resting against the exhaust.

TIA
Jim

[TipsyMcStagger]

Originally Posted by TDR400

Sorry if this has been answered before. I am new to the list and am struggling with the search feature .........

Looking for a bolt on cover for the muffler that keeps my Gears bag from resting against the exhaust.

TIA
Jim

Google works well to search the forum.

Tipsy

[TDR400]

..... forgot to mention it is a 2003.

[211john]

Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007

Thanks to those who kind of swayed me to the DRZ side of the equation!
As I read a billion articles on this topic, I guess the summation is the DR is basically for the road, and the DRZ is basically for off road...

Is there a way to stiffen up the back suspension on each, like an off road spring or something? It seems both need suspension work if you are taking it off road, but how much and how expensive is this endeavor?

Thanks DRZ folks!

If you go to the racetech website they have a spring calculator that will tell you what weight springs you need for your bike with you on it. Just changing the springs and adjusting the shock/fork is adequate and will cost you a little over $100 per end for the springs. If you want it to be ideal the forks and shock can be revalved too. Not sure what that would cost.

Suspension work is the most cost effective performance modification you can make. Getting the springs right and the sag set right is the 1st step. Having it set up right will make the bike handle better on and off road.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by 211john

If you go to the racetech website they have a spring calculator that will tell you what weight springs you need for your bike with you on it.

I would advise caution with the calculator on RaceTech's site. I've had it make recommendations that turned out to be several spring rate increments too stiff, and therefore don't use it anymore.

Regards,

Derek