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Old 02-18-2013, 09:36 PM   #17491
Tropic-Of-Canada
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S_Palmer View Post
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it looks to me like 1 ex valve is .002 tight and the other is .004 tight, intakes still in spec, why rebuild the head? What am I missing? Is this a high mile motor? First valve check? Why would 2 tight valves cause noise?
The motor is at 37,000 kms (not miles!).

I ask again, wouldn't a leakdown after re-shimming determine whether new valve seats need to be ground/ valves replaced?

In this scenario, common sense tells me that just because something is out of spec, does not necessarily mean damage has been done (but that's just my opinion).... What if I pull the head off and see that they're perfect? Now that would be a waste of time!

I'm thinking more along the lines of "if it aint broke, don't fix it"! For now, I think I will try re-shimming them.

BTW, Cam chain looked fine, but how does one tell? all the cam teeth were in perfect shape as well.

If it blows up, I can't blame the internet! I would never have gotten this far into it without everyones advice! thanks!

Tropic-Of-Canada screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 09:47 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:53 PM   #17492
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
The motor is at 37,000 kms (not miles!).

I ask again, wouldn't a leakdown after re-shimming determine whether new valve seats need to be ground/ valves replaced?

In this scenario, common sense tells me that just because something is out of spec, does not necessarily mean damage has been done (but that's just my opinion).... What if I pull the head off and see that they're perfect? Now that would be a waste of time!
Ask yourself why they moved and you'll have your answer.

Edit: did you do a leak down test this time? You have a gap between the cam and your valve right now as it is... I don't know what you think will change when you increase that gap and do a leak down test again.

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Old 02-18-2013, 10:29 PM   #17493
DR650SEDDY
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Anyone have fork bleeder valves on their bike? Input? I am thinking getting some.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:23 PM   #17494
59DEN
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Location: Albany, Western Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
The motor is at 37,000 kms (not miles!).

I ask again, wouldn't a leakdown after re-shimming determine whether new valve seats need to be ground/ valves replaced?

In this scenario, common sense tells me that just because something is out of spec, does not necessarily mean damage has been done (but that's just my opinion).... What if I pull the head off and see that they're perfect? Now that would be a waste of time!

I'm thinking more along the lines of "if it aint broke, don't fix it"! For now, I think I will try re-shimming them.

BTW, Cam chain looked fine, but how does one tell? all the cam teeth were in perfect shape as well.

If it blows up, I can't blame the internet! I would never have gotten this far into it without everyones advice! thanks!
My DRZ had to re shimmed at 32000 km and timing chain at 40,000, the only thing is that it was not as noisy as your bike, it has done another 17000 and motor is still running fine.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:28 PM   #17495
59DEN
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post

I've been in your position... My bike did the same exact thing. I took my head apart myself to inspect the valves... They were screwed....huge groove worn into the intakes.
Just a quick question, do you think the damage was caused by the adjustment being out or the valve coating wearing off or failing.
Cheers
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:31 AM   #17496
Tropic-Of-Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59DEN View Post
My DRZ had to re shimmed at 32000 km and timing chain at 40,000, the only thing is that it was not as noisy as your bike, it has done another 17000 and motor is still running fine.
So how does one tell if their timing chain is toast? I may as well post some pics...Maybe someone will see something I don't.

IMG_0963

Right side exhaust. This was the one that was .006" tight, notice the bit of wear. I suppose there is a spec for the lobes as well.

IMG_0968

IMG_0961

Tropic-Of-Canada screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 01:56 AM
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:37 AM   #17497
farkleface
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtmongrel View Post
Yo FarkleFace, did you ever figure this out. Inquiring minds want to know. If not ask more questions


good luck
Yeah, it was the battery. Strangely, when I put the multi meter on the battery, it reads 13.3v? But on the bike no power, lights etc?. I swapped it for a buddy's battery and she fired right up! oh, and the back side of the old battery is all swollen.
Anyhow, thanks for the help
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:47 AM   #17498
coarsegoldkid
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Location: Coarsegold, CA
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I just installed ones mfd MSR. Anyway on the trail this past weekend one was leaking past the O-ring a little bit. Maybe I didn't get it snug enough. I certainly don't want to over tighten it. The one's pictured here are much shorter than MSR versions I have. Mine do easily clear the bars because I have Tusk bar risers. Your triple clamps and forks look different too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Anyone have fork bleeder valves on their bike? Input? I am thinking getting some.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:58 AM   #17499
buls4evr
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[QUOTE=DualSportDad;20716319]
Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post

Viton?

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Do you think JesseK would sell one that was not correct for a DRZ? If you think so you do not know his great reputation. He sells them for .50 ea.. While you are buying a dozen of these, look at his great external fuel screw also...
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:12 AM   #17500
Jack Rabbit
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Location: Gibbons, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
So how does one tell if their timing chain is toast? I may as well post some pics...Maybe someone will see something I don't.

IMG_0963

Right side exhaust. This was the one that was .006" tight, notice the bit of wear. I suppose there is a spec for the lobes as well.

IMG_0968

IMG_0961
Show us your chain tensioner. Typically if its adjusted all the way in, your chain is stretched too far and needs to be replaced. I'm no expert but its very hard to tell from pics of the cams.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:32 AM   #17501
DR. Rock
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bleeders

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Anyone have fork bleeder valves on their bike? Input? I am thinking getting some.
Yes, I have them. You can rotate the fork so that the bleeder is not directly below the bar and there will be no issue with interference.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:25 AM   #17502
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coarsegoldkid View Post
. Your triple clamps and forks look different too.
Those bleeder valves are made (or at least what's in that photo) for upside down forks i wanna see if they fit they fit a regular drz-e forks (or if the thread is the same). Clearance is no problem i can do what Dr. Rock mentionned earlier.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #17503
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59DEN View Post
Just a quick question, do you think the damage was caused by the adjustment being out or the valve coating wearing off or failing.
Cheers
Ussually the valves wear cause of sand injestiin. Maybe the coating was thinner than some on the valves? Either way the coating is thin and once they move to the point that you notice, they are done.

I have my old valves in my till box. ..ill take a picture of them and and if I remember layer I'll post them up to help give a better idea of what had happened.

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Old 02-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #17504
DualSportDad
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[QUOTE=buls4evr;20760218]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post

Do you think JesseK would sell one that was not correct for a DRZ? If you think so you do not know his great reputation. He sells them for .50 ea.. While you are buying a dozen of these, look at his great external fuel screw also...
I've been using Jessie's products for years. Started with my dr350. I also know viton isn't cheap. Either way is ask before I bought it. I don't care if it's the right size and is only $0.50 or not. ... I'd rather pay $10 and not smoke my engine because it filed full of fuel one day.

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Old 02-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #17505
mark1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fantastic Mrs Fox View Post
I dont agree think that is just as bad as the 'my way is the highway' approach...as my hubby said sometimes it is hard to get points across on a forum and things can be taken the wrong way on the whole we have had some very useful and constructive advice from plenty of people on the subject :cool:

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Hi there Mrs F,
Firstly I've used your quote as it's the last thing written on behalf yourself and Mr F.
It only occurred to me today, I couldn't help but wonder if your bikes are OK in the armour dept, I.E. Engine cases and Radiators?
The cases are sorted out with easily fitted CFC / TT (Thumper Talk) guards,and the latter with Unabiker rad guards.
Both of these have come highly recommended , and both are of great quality to which I have no doubt that should the worst happen they will perform as they are supposed to.
Both have the potential to delay or stop you in your travels, so I thought it worth a mention.
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