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Old 10-23-2008, 08:46 PM   #1741
Chilipepper
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That is a very sexy DRZ
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:23 PM   #1742
MOTARDJUNKIE
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DOnt mean to break up the DRZ race bike pics but my valves are ticking pretty loud and Im just curious to how I actually adjust the valves one I get in there? I bought a feeler gauge and I assumed they were like car valves with adjustable rockers. I ream on TT they are shimmed. Does anyone have a walk through on how its done or someone wanna give me a quick directions?
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:49 PM   #1743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTARDJUNKIE
DOnt mean to break up the DRZ race bike pics but my valves are ticking pretty loud and Im just curious to how I actually adjust the valves one I get in there? I bought a feeler gauge and I assumed they were like car valves with adjustable rockers. I ream on TT they are shimmed. Does anyone have a walk through on how its done or someone wanna give me a quick directions?
Googling "DRZ valve adjustment" will result in 12,500 hits and several tutorials. Checking them is basically just unbolting stuff and measuring clearances which is pretty hard to screw up, but changing shims (which you are definitely going to have to do if your valves are "ticking pretty loud") involves pulling cams and there is a LOT to go wrong here, including getting the cam timing wrong and lunching your engine's top end.

Your noise might be the automatic cam chain tensioner which is a known trouble spot on these engines, especially 2003 and earlier. More info in the DRZ forum at thumpertalk.com

- Mark
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:35 AM   #1744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
Googling "DRZ valve adjustment" will result in 12,500 hits and several tutorials. Checking them is basically just unbolting stuff and measuring clearances which is pretty hard to screw up, but changing shims (which you are definitely going to have to do if your valves are "ticking pretty loud") involves pulling cams and there is a LOT to go wrong here, including getting the cam timing wrong and lunching your engine's top end.

Your noise might be the automatic cam chain tensioner which is a known trouble spot on these engines, especially 2003 and earlier. More info in the DRZ forum at thumpertalk.com

- Mark
Thanks!!
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:45 AM   #1745
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MJ:

Here's a an easy way:

efault Valve shim replacement the EZ way
Lets say you checked your valve clearance and the right intake valve is .004 (low limit)

Here is the drill-
Remove your carburetor so you can get the oil breather box out of the way.
Remove the little bolt out of the end of the cam chain tensioner.
Use small flathead screwdriver and insert into the hole exposed in the tensioner, turn clockwise until it stops. You will feel a little spring tension, that is good. When it stops just tighten a little more until it holds without backing out on its own.
Remove the two Allen bolts holding the cam chain tensioner and remove from engine.
Now remove the two Allen bolts that hold the upper cam chain guard in place.
In a cross pattern remove the remaining 3 Allen bolts that hold the upper cam bearing cover.
Remove cam bearing cover being careful that the guide dowels don't come out and fall in engine. (Mine stayed in the head)
You already had your engine at TDC from the valve clearance inspection. Note the location of numbers and arrows on the side of the cam gear.
Now gently lift the camshaft upward and forward enough where you can get a magnet on the top of the valve spring bucket and lift it off and out of the head area.
Set the camshaft back in place so nothing moves around.
The actual valve shim is about the size of a pencil eraser and may be stuck in the valve bucket or still on top of the valve (mine stayed in the bucket).
Inspect the shim for a number (mine said 285)
I took the shim, along with my shop manual and micrometer to the Suzuki dealer and asked for help to get the right shim to get it back in spec.
The shim assortments come in multiples of 5 examples: 275,280, 285 and so on.
Each shim is the equivalent of .002 inch.
I wanted to get back up to the outside intake spec, which was .008 so that came out to be the #275 shim. The mechanic was nice enough to just trade shims.
So now you set the replacement shim on top of the valve with the numbers facing up.
While holding the camshaft up and forward with one hand place the bucket over the valve spring and lower it in place. Now set your camshaft back in place without forcing anything.
Replace the bearing cap and finger tighten the 3 screws. I left the 4 Th one holding the cam chain guard off on purpose to check the cam timing.
The arrows on the camshaft gears should be just like when you started.
Starting with the pin that the top arrow is pointing to, count the cam chain pins to the other camshaft gear until you get to 15, it has to exactly line up with the arrow on that other camshaft gear.
If all looks good replace the upper camshaft guard and install the cam chain tensioner. Tighten all the cap bolts in a cross pattern.
Check the cam tesioner closely. Run the screw in and out so you can feel the tension and look for the chance that the tension spring is broke or not. (Mine was good)
Use the screw to lock the spring in the retracted position and replace the tensioner. (My gasket was ok to reuse)
Release the cam chain screw and put the bolt back in the end.
Rotate the engine two full 360-degree rotations to squeeze out any oil from the bucket and shim and recheck your clearance in the normal manor using a feeler gauge.
My new right rear intake valve clearance went from .004 to .008 Magic!
Now put all the rest of the crap back together and if it starts up and runs without rattling your teeth. Celebrate in the appropriate manor.
Virtual Round of beers for all who actually read this post this far.

I guess it goes without saying that I changed a shim on the right exhaust using the same procedure but I thought it would be less complicated to splain one at a time Lucy!
My exhaust was .009 and the shim # 315. I replaced it with a #310 which gave me .011 inch. The left valves were .011 exhaust and .007 intake. Milage is about 2,500 and I use 100% Amsoil motorcyle synthetic 20-50.


The line, next to the T is what gets centered in the sight hole.

At that point the cams can be installed in the correct TDC compression stroke position.. Which is with the lobes pointing at 10 and 2.

The tensioner needs to be reset, then installed, then allowed to set it self to the proper length. Or better yet toss that thing in the trash (more so if your running an 02 or older ACCT, and it sound like you are) Install a MCCT, set and be done with it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:17 AM   #1746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTARDJUNKIE
DOnt mean to break up the DRZ race bike pics but my valves are ticking pretty loud and Im just curious to how I actually adjust the valves one I get in there? I bought a feeler gauge and I assumed they were like car valves with adjustable rockers. I ream on TT they are shimmed. Does anyone have a walk through on how its done or someone wanna give me a quick directions?
Surprised this one hasn't been mentioned yet...

http://paochow.com/forum/index.php?topic=9.0

Full guide (WITH PICS! ) of how to do it...
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:21 PM   #1747
MOTARDJUNKIE
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Slide & wickerthunder

Thanks between those two I think I can get it done. Carry on with those race DRZ's!!
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MOTARDJUNKIE screwed with this post 10-24-2008 at 06:47 PM
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:17 PM   #1748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southforkspeedster
Wow Wilmo

Those pictures are making me happy again, that I traded the Katoom for the DRZ.............

We will find out after this weekend how well I will like the DRZ, as I am going to race it in a 24 hour team race...............

Thanks for the great photos, and oh yeah, your bike ROCKS!!!!!

Look forward to hearing your review on the GL Bag...........may be given WACHS a jingle
Yeah the DRZ's are bullet proof as we know and in the Australasian Safari that was no exception....no one blew one up. In fact last year a who placed in the top 10 on one (very good rider), just changed the oil and rode it again in another local 'safari' type race 6 months later and came 6th. So you know he wasn't babying the bike either! The DRZ is just so versatile, that is why they are so good. Commuter, Trailride, Racing, Touring, you can set them up how you want for the purpose in mind and know that they'll get you there and back!
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:47 PM   #1749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilmo
Yeah the DRZ's are bullet proof as we know and in the Australasian Safari that was no exception....no one blew one up. In fact last year a who placed in the top 10 on one (very good rider), just changed the oil and rode it again in another local 'safari' type race 6 months later and came 6th. So you know he wasn't babying the bike either! The DRZ is just so versatile, that is why they are so good. Commuter, Trailride, Racing, Touring, you can set them up how you want for the purpose in mind and know that they'll get you there and back!
Around these parts, the DRZ is considered a bit ordinary. Plain vanilla if you will, especially by the KTM guys. I agree with you Wilmo, they just do everything with out complaining. One of my coworkers has a friend who riddes and races a DRZ. My coworker has to make him change oil. This guy is really fast and his bike is stock. I spent a good portion of this summer debating over selling my KLX and getting an XR650L. Last time I rode in the dirt, I got to wondering why I'd want 30lbs more bike btwn my legs on the trails. I decided to get a pipe to add some power and be done with it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:07 PM   #1750
onaXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
Your noise might be the automatic cam chain tensioner which is a known trouble spot on these engines, especially 2003 and earlier. More info in the DRZ forum at thumpertalk.com

- Mark
Nope '03 was the first year of the good tensioner. Should say pre '03.
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:51 PM   #1751
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR
Nope '03 was the first year of the good tensioner. Should say pre '03.
Thanks for correction. I've got an 06 and am just leaving it stock but the bike doesn't see very many miles.

- Mark
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:27 PM   #1752
MOTARDJUNKIE
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No posts for an entire day?? Everyone must be riding.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:23 PM   #1753
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Duh!

Or in my case, working.

But I work at a kart track and they allow supermoto, so I got to ride on the track. I have worn out m21's, and all the other bikes were 450 motorcross bikes with track tires on them, so I was the slowest one out there but it was still a blast!
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:00 PM   #1754
swingset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTARDJUNKIE
No posts for an entire day?? Everyone must be riding.
You guessed it!

I got my DRZ finally sorted out (jetting & so forth) and took it for it's first serious dual-sporting today...rode with a gang of Ohio guys and logged 140 miles of trails & backroads, including some wicked mud & ruts, quad trails, hills, rocks, down logs, pretty much the gamut of eastern terrain was encountered today.

I'm very impressed so far, even tho my bike is 90% stock, it performed admirably and handled all the terrain I put it through. Really had a great time on it.

I still need to find a good tire, it's on its Deathwings and although I find them much better than their reputation, they're obviously awful in the slop...had to air them down to about 8 psi to get through the soupy stuff. I think I'll try the Shinko 244's on it, they were nice on my XRL for a cheap tire they did really well.
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Old 10-27-2008, 02:14 AM   #1755
MOTARDJUNKIE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drizzt
Duh!

Or in my case, working.

But I work at a kart track and they allow supermoto, so I got to ride on the track. I have worn out m21's, and all the other bikes were 450 motorcross bikes with track tires on them, so I was the slowest one out there but it was still a blast!
I just read your thread on TT. Im more of a dirt guy too but I still wanna try some SM.
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