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Old 02-25-2013, 07:29 AM   #17581
The Recycled Teenager
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Originally Posted by Jeathrow Bowdean View Post
I hope that you folks are keeping an eye on the DR 790cc build. Part 1 did not work that well, but Procycle is fixing things up for part 2.

It's the best show in town this year.

From Jeathrow Bowdean in Western Canada. PS: Who knows, this could save your motor project some day !!!

Can you give us a link to that please
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #17582
XJHero
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Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
Is your bike a Cali version? I didn't think the klxr had a prime position on the petcock?

If its flooded I wouldnt start it. Replace the o ring in the seat Assembly and change the oil before you start it.

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I honestly dont know if its cali or not...its had a few mods done to it already, 3x3, K@N, Yoshi pipe, might have deleted the emission stuff already if it did come with it. Which o ring and seat are you talking about?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:55 AM   #17583
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Originally Posted by mars View Post
I noticed a rather crude bend in the front down tube and thought this must be the final tweek to get the geometry right.

Waiting for a jetting kit now and next up will be the swing arm. I expect it to be in the same condition as the steering head.
You piqued my interest with the frame bend comment. I just ran out and looked at mine, it's got a bend in the same spot, and I purchased it brand new, so I wouldn't worry about it.

I did my swingarm last winter and it was definitely lacking grease. There was a little bit of corrosion, but not bad. Bought mine new in 08, fortunately I hadn't been riding in a lot of water, or I would have been sorry for waiting as long as I did.

While we're on the subject of what are and what are not necessary must do items, steering head and swingarm bearings/pivot point disassembly, inspection, and lube are DEFINITE MUST DO ITEMS. The factory does a TERRIBLE job lubing these critical points. That said, you should be doing this every few years anyway.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #17584
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Originally Posted by XJHero View Post
Yes actually, i didnt realize that this was a prime position, thought it was a reserve, and my tank only has a gallon or so in it. Didnt think it mattered...on that note, what exactly is the prime for and how do you use it properly?...And if thats the case, would def explain why it flooded. On that note, how would I go about clearing a flood out of this style engine...im more used to kick bikes(WOT, open choke, kick it a few times), unless ive been doing that wrong too...seemed to work on my XRs no prob.
This could be your problem.

The fuel valve is vacuum operated. Vacuum created when the engine is running is what opens the fuel valve and allows fuel to the carb when in the normal "ON" position. With the valve in the prime position, the vacuum operation is bypassed, and the valve remains open. This normally wouldn't be a problem, unless the float o-ring in your carb is worn/cracked/nicked (which is likely considering you have an older bike), in which case the fuel flow won't be stopped by the operation of the float in your carb. This will flood your bike if the valve is left in the "prime" position (or if the vacuum diaphragm in the fuel valve is torn and the valve is "ON"), and the fuel can end up flowing into your crankcase if left like this for an extended period. I have never had the need to use the prime position. I believe the only time you'd need to use it would be after running the fuel system completely dry.

The normal starting procedure for the DRZ is just as the PO said, to choke it, and don't touch the throttle. I've been starting mine this way from the get-go and have never had a problem. Once it's warm, no choke is required.

As far as clearing a flooded engine, I assume your technique should work. WOT with the fuel valve in the "ON" position should even keep the vacuum from building up enough to open the valve. This is why it's recommended to start the bike with the throttle closed; it builds up more of a vacuum to open the fuel valve.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:28 AM   #17585
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Originally Posted by XJHero View Post
I honestly dont know if its cali or not...its had a few mods done to it already, 3x3, K@N, Yoshi pipe, might have deleted the emission stuff already if it did come with it. Which o ring and seat are you talking about?

Yes, this. Then throw away that junk vacuum petcock and replace it with one from the Raptor. They are cheap and eliminate the fuel leak past o-ring problem if you shut them off. The O-ring is on the float needle cup in the carb bowl. You can get these for .50 from Keintech. While you have that carb apart do JD jetting and external K-tech fuel screw. You will thank yourself and your bike will actually start...and run off the bottom. A little pricey but worth the effort.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:43 AM   #17586
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Originally Posted by mars View Post

It had a neat glow at night too.
a thousand newbie thanks for this one. that's cool
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scrolling through the words to get to the pictures is cool, but i'm really just here for the tracks and waypoints... post some ok ?
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:59 AM   #17587
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Originally Posted by The Recycled Teenager View Post
Can you give us a link to that please
It might be this one:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860980
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #17588
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
Yes, this. Then throw away that junk vacuum petcock and replace it with one from the Raptor. They are cheap and eliminate the fuel leak past o-ring problem if you shut them off. The O-ring is on the float needle cup in the carb bowl. You can get these for .50 from Keintech. While you have that carb apart do JD jetting and external K-tech fuel screw. You will thank yourself and your bike will actually start...and run off the bottom. A little pricey but worth the effort.
Thanks for the tips buls4evr. Im pretty sure I heard a few other guys talk about that petcock mod, as well as the external fuel screw. I will be looking into both these mods as will most likely be tearing apart the carb, if notthing else just to replace the o-ring and clean the jets. I was told it was already jetted to match the filter and exhaust, but I can clean them at the very least. Which year(s)/CCs Raptor is it compatible with?...So i dont get the wrong one
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:19 PM   #17589
XJHero
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Originally Posted by JoCo View Post
This could be your problem.

The fuel valve is vacuum operated. Vacuum created when the engine is running is what opens the fuel valve and allows fuel to the carb when in the normal "ON" position. With the valve in the prime position, the vacuum operation is bypassed, and the valve remains open. This normally wouldn't be a problem, unless the float o-ring in your carb is worn/cracked/nicked (which is likely considering you have an older bike), in which case the fuel flow won't be stopped by the operation of the float in your carb. This will flood your bike if the valve is left in the "prime" position (or if the vacuum diaphragm in the fuel valve is torn and the valve is "ON"), and the fuel can end up flowing into your crankcase if left like this for an extended period. I have never had the need to use the prime position. I believe the only time you'd need to use it would be after running the fuel system completely dry.

The normal starting procedure for the DRZ is just as the PO said, to choke it, and don't touch the throttle. I've been starting mine this way from the get-go and have never had a problem. Once it's warm, no choke is required.

As far as clearing a flooded engine, I assume your technique should work. WOT with the fuel valve in the "ON" position should even keep the vacuum from building up enough to open the valve. This is why it's recommended to start the bike with the throttle closed; it builds up more of a vacuum to open the fuel valve.
Alright, that makes sense. That is usually what the prime function is on most small engines. I didnt even read the switch, just so used to the up position being reserve, and since the tank was almost dry when i got it...
But it does sound like the o-ring is most likely cracked. I did not leave it in the prime position for periods of time at all though, i would try to start it on that, no start, then shut it off right away, 10secs on time max. But with a cracked o-ring, it would be possible for that to be enough to flood it out. Ill check that oil today, see how that looks/smells and take it from there. Wouldnt you want the fuel shut off while trying to clear the flood instead of being on?
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #17590
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Originally Posted by dr650seddy View Post
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:35 PM   #17591
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Originally Posted by XJHero View Post
Alright, that makes sense. That is usually what the prime function is on most small engines. I didnt even read the switch, just so used to the up position being reserve, and since the tank was almost dry when i got it...
But it does sound like the o-ring is most likely cracked. I did not leave it in the prime position for periods of time at all though, i would try to start it on that, no start, then shut it off right away, 10secs on time max. But with a cracked o-ring, it would be possible for that to be enough to flood it out. Ill check that oil today, see how that looks/smells and take it from there. Wouldnt you want the fuel shut off while trying to clear the flood instead of being on?
As was mentioned earlier - yours is the equivalent of the DRZ 'E' model, I think. Unless it's a California 'E', that is... There's no vacuum diaphragm or "Prime" position on the fuel petcock. It's On, Off or Reserve.

You may be flooded or maybe not. Choke it some more, and see. What can it hurt? Try twisting the throttle a couple times, too, to pump in a bit more gas. If it is flooded, pull the plug, dry it off, and crank a bit with the plug out. Install the plug, hold the throttle wide open and crank.

If you're careful with it, some starting fluid may help. Only spray while cranking, though!! Take off the airbox door and maybe even the filter to get the spray into the intake. (Awaiting the starting-fluid Nazis in 3, 2, 1...)

Jon
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:16 PM   #17592
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
Yes, this. Then throw away that junk vacuum petcock and replace it with one from the Raptor. They are cheap and eliminate the fuel leak past o-ring problem if you shut them off. The O-ring is on the float needle cup in the carb bowl. You can get these for .50 from Keintech. While you have that carb apart do JD jetting and external K-tech fuel screw. You will thank yourself and your bike will actually start...and run off the bottom. A little pricey but worth the effort.

I just bought a raptor petcock, haven't got around to installing it yet, but the nipple on it seems to be a smaller diameter than the stock petcock. The stock fuel hose is loose on it. Is there a difference? Do I need to use a smaller diameter fuel hose, or hose clamps?
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:26 PM   #17593
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Should be the same; I reused the stock fuel line when I installed my Raptor pc.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:02 PM   #17594
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It needs to be a 5/16" nipple on that petcock.Sounds like you got a 1/4" nipple.Fuel starvation at high speeds could be the result.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:20 PM   #17595
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Originally Posted by inroads View Post
It needs to be a 5/16" nipple on that petcock.Sounds like you got a 1/4" nipple.Fuel starvation at high speeds could be the result.

It is a 1/4" nipple. I guess I got the wrong petcock. What's a good source to order the correct one?
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