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Old 02-25-2013, 04:28 PM   #17596
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
It is a 1/4" nipple. I guess I got the wrong petcock. What's a good source to order the correct one?
I think I got mine for MR Cycles, but there are a number of good vendors or your local Yamaha dealer. The EXACT part number for one that simply bolts on with everything lining up perfectly is earlier in this thread.

- Mark
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #17597
XJHero
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So I figured out what my issue was....bad gas. After confirming spark, I drained the tank, drained the carb bowl, filled it up with some new gas, and it started right up. Sometimes its just something simple...
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:48 PM   #17598
Creeker747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJHero View Post
So I figured out what my issue was....bad gas. After confirming spark, I drained the tank, drained the carb bowl, filled it up with some new gas, and it started right up. Sometimes its just something simple...
You called this Eddy! Nice job, glad you got it your bike go'n.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #17599
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
I just bought a raptor petcock, haven't got around to installing it yet, but the nipple on it seems to be a smaller diameter than the stock petcock. The stock fuel hose is loose on it. Is there a difference? Do I need to use a smaller diameter fuel hose, or hose clamps?
I use the same one, its a tad smaller, just use a locking cable clamp on the fuel line, no fuel starvation issues at all, and i run the bike at 90+ mph every single time its out, once its on the tank and installed, drain some gas into a bucket, you will see it comes out just as much as the stocker.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:36 AM   #17600
buls4evr
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The Raptor petcock is Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 . It is about $26 at a Yamaha dealer. Fits like it was made for an S model Dizzer. Manual control, single line......Don't forget to block off your old vacuum port at right top of carb body after installation.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:56 AM   #17601
focallength
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Originally Posted by Solarbronco View Post
Yeah, I dont get into all the "must do" mods either. No matter what ya do, the DRZ will always be heavy as hell. 3x3 mod will just make your airfilter dirty as hell really quick. FCR carb will give a lil power, but mostly cost alot AND ruin your MPG. I changed tires, added a thick skid plate, added a DRC rear tail light. Removed the blinkers and mirrors and ride the piss out of my 2012 every chance I get.

I bought a DRZ because I didn't want to have to waste all my time working on my bike, and DRZ's flat out last if ya change the oil and filters.
ummm...do you have the FCR? because it dosent give a little power, it makes a huge difference. of course a little power is subjective I suppose. as far as ruining your MPG, I only noticed a minor change, maybe 5 miles on a 2 gallon tank. so I went from 100 miles to 95...The only real drawback of the FCR is its more sensitive to changes in altitude, but not so much that giving a little more or less fuel dosent solve. if you jet it correctly for your riding altitude youll generally have no issuses. the only time I have any issuses (and minor ones at that) is at sea level and above 10k feet. Now if I was going RTW and expected major elevation changes (sea level to 10K feet) each and every day Id put the CV carb back on. As far as heavy as hell...well mine is below 290. so...in comparison with a MX bike yeah its about 30-40 pounds heavier, but on average its comparable, theres alot of weight that can be removed, of course theres alot of weight most people add back on too.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:25 PM   #17602
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creeker747 View Post
You called this Eddy! Nice job, glad you got it your bike go'n.
It's amazing what u can do with soap and water huh .


Hope u can join me on that ride for Sunday. (135 mi of mixt terrains) ... .
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:38 PM   #17603
Murf2
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Couple for noobie ?'s

Hi all, I just got a deal on an 05 DRZ. I was looking for a DR650 but this was too good to pass up. It's got 4.5K on it & is in nice shape. Now for my questions.

1. Is the owners manual very useful? I didn't get one and am thinking of buying one. Where is a good place to order it>

2. I plan on getting a shop manual. What is the best shop manual out there?

4. I can't speak to the original owner, so I'm trying to figure out what has been done to it. It has the top of the air box opened up. It runs fine & reacts to the choke as normal. Should I assume it has probably been jetted?

5. Below the float bowl on the LH side there is a plastic knob attached to what looks like a tube or sleeve that runs up to the bottom of the carb. Is this for idle mixture adjustment?

6. It has an aftermarket tail light/ turn signal thingy on it. It tucks the signal lights in tight. They flash fast tho. Do I need to put some sort of resistor on it? Where could I find info on this?

Thanks for the time!

Murf
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:26 PM   #17604
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf2 View Post
. Now for my questions.

1. Is the owners manual very useful? I didn't get one and am thinking of buying one. Where is a good place to order it>

2. I plan on getting a shop manual. What is the best shop manual out there?








Murf
Yes it's good to have one. The clymer is one option, They're available on ebay.
Quote:
6. It has an aftermarket tail light/ turn signal thingy on it. It tucks the signal lights in tight. They flash fast tho. Do I need to put some sort of resistor on it? Where could I find info on this?
I don't know which one u got the E or S model. If it's an E the po could have modded and must look at the wires (E doesn't come street legal).
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:15 PM   #17605
bmwpowere36m3
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Location: Shelton, CT
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stock drz400s rear wheel offset

I'm looking specifically for the rear wheel offset for a DRZ400S (stock 2.15 rim and hub). I'm reading some conflicting answers on the forum. Ideally the swingarm would be symmetrical and centered in the frame that way it'd be easy to set the offset by just centering the rim in the swingarm.

Doing some rough measurements of the swingarm, it is not symmetrical. I measured from the outside rotor disc surface (rotor installed) to the outer most rim edge (by the tire). My reading is 34.5 mm.

Or is the rim actually centered in the swingarm, measured as seen in picture (red arrows)?

I'll be lacing some wheels soon...

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Old 02-26-2013, 05:36 PM   #17606
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post

Doing some rough measurements of the swingarm, it is not symmetrical. I measured from the outside rotor disc surface (rotor installed) to the outer most rim edge (by the tire). My reading is 34.5 mm.


To my knowledge the rear wheel should be centerd with the front wheel not the swingarm. On my DR650 the the wheel is never symetrical with swingarm (or at least when u look at it). On the swingarm the side of where the brake caliper goes it larger that the other one (where the chain goes). Maybe it shows it here ...
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DR650SEDDY screwed with this post 02-26-2013 at 05:41 PM
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:16 PM   #17607
Psycho18th
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Yes it's good to have one. The clymer is one option, They're available on ebay.
I don't know which one u got the E or S model. If it's an E the po could have modded and must look at the wires (E doesn't come street legal).
I'll second the Clymer. Some folks on this thread poo poo them, but I'm a believer, used mine to do all work on my '02 E.

I assume you have an S model, with LED blinkers. They require a different flasher. Plenty of posts on this thread about how to slow down the blink. Even a Dualsported E may need the different flasher, depending on the kit used to make it street legal.

The plastic knob depends on the carb. My E has an FCR carb, with a plastic knob to adjust idle speed. I also have an aftermarket flexible knob that adjusts the fuel screw, changing mixture at and just off idle. I use that to lean the crap out of the idle to pass AZ emissions, then reset so it idles/runs. I'm not as familiar with the S BSR carb, but if you have one external adjustment, its idle speed. With2, the second one is probably air/fuels crew adjustment.


Top left is choke. Bottom left is idle speed. Bottom right on flexible black cable is remote fuel screw.

PS. I know it's dirty, I'll clean it again.....someday.
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Psycho18th screwed with this post 02-26-2013 at 07:23 PM
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:08 PM   #17608
Bad Daddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf2 View Post
Hi all, I just got a deal on an 05 DRZ. I was looking for a DR650 but this was too good to pass up. It's got 4.5K on it & is in nice shape. Now for my questions.

1. Is the owners manual very useful? I didn't get one and am thinking of buying one. Where is a good place to order it>

2. I plan on getting a shop manual. What is the best shop manual out there?

4. I can't speak to the original owner, so I'm trying to figure out what has been done to it. It has the top of the air box opened up. It runs fine & reacts to the choke as normal. Should I assume it has probably been jetted?

5. Below the float bowl on the LH side there is a plastic knob attached to what looks like a tube or sleeve that runs up to the bottom of the carb. Is this for idle mixture adjustment?

6. It has an aftermarket tail light/ turn signal thingy on it. It tucks the signal lights in tight. They flash fast tho. Do I need to put some sort of resistor on it? Where could I find info on this?

Thanks for the time!

Murf
http://tstindustries.com/product.php...cat=261&page=1

This works on the DRZ S or SM.

CLYMER manual is good. Owners manual is mainly dedicated to that goofy speedometer
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:15 PM   #17609
Bad Daddy
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Good little product

I put on LED signals, and after a few near misses by caters that didn't see me (almost got my left turn badge) decided to look for a fix.

My Heritage Softail had turn signals that were running lights, which added to my visibility for other motorists.

This kit

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.p...&product_id=70

does the same.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #17610
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
To my knowledge the rear wheel should be centerd with the front wheel not the swingarm. On my DR650 the the wheel is never symetrical with swingarm (or at least when u look at it). On the swingarm the side of where the brake caliper goes it larger that the other one (where the chain goes). Maybe it shows it here ...
Thanks, visually I can see it and my measurements confirmed that the swingarm is not symmetrical. What I find interesting is that the rear wheel is neither aligned with the swing arm pivots or the rear linkage pivot (on the swingarm).

I'd appreciate it if someone could take some form of measurement that I could use.

I agree that aligning to the front wheel is the right thing to do. I was just hoping that maybe someone else has the same offset as I currently have and that would only confirm my measurements.
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