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Old 02-27-2013, 05:39 AM   #17611
Muddler
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Fat rear tyre?

Has anyone run a 140 knobby on the rear successfully. I'm looking at more flotation for sand
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:40 AM   #17612
markjenn
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Originally Posted by Muddler View Post
Has anyone run a 140 knobby on the rear successfully. I'm looking at more flotation for sand
Folks use 120 to 140 on the rear, generally without issue.

- Mark
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:42 AM   #17613
Muddler
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Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
Folks use 120 to 140 on the rear, generally without issue.

- Mark
Cool! Thanks
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:00 AM   #17614
Muddler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddler View Post
Has anyone run a 140 knobby on the rear successfully. I'm looking at more flotation for sand
Ok, to be a bit more specific now, the D606 and T63 only come in 130, but the MT21 does come in 140/80. Anyone used this before?
I have used all 3 before, but only a 120 in the MT21
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:30 AM   #17615
Spacelord
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Did the stop making the 606 in 120 size ?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:36 AM   #17616
Starchamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post
Thanks, visually I can see it and my measurements confirmed that the swingarm is not symmetrical. What I find interesting is that the rear wheel is neither aligned with the swing arm pivots or the rear linkage pivot (on the swingarm).

I'd appreciate it if someone could take some form of measurement that I could use.

I agree that aligning to the front wheel is the right thing to do. I was just hoping that maybe someone else has the same offset as I currently have and that would only confirm my measurements.
Not sure what measurements you want, I have an E swingarm and linkage laying around, and an SM swingarm on the bike now. When you lace the wheel, wouldn't you just align the rim to the hub? All the spokes are the same length, if I recall correctly from when I last did mine, so there's no "offset" like on some wheels. Once I got mine all laced up, I just made sure the runout was within spec, and ran with it.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:40 AM   #17617
Starchamp
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Originally Posted by Spacelord View Post
Did the stop making the 606 in 120 size ?
They still make the 120, I think he just meant that 130 is as wide as the D606 gets in an 18" diameter. For flotation purposes, he's not considering 120s (obviously).
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:54 AM   #17618
SKINZ
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Location: Calgary, AB
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Originally Posted by XJHero View Post
So I figured out what my issue was....bad gas. After confirming spark, I drained the tank, drained the carb bowl, filled it up with some new gas, and it started right up. Sometimes its just something simple...
Glad to hear you got it going!
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:17 AM   #17619
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
Not sure what measurements you want, I have an E swingarm and linkage laying around, and an SM swingarm on the bike now. When you lace the wheel, wouldn't you just align the rim to the hub? All the spokes are the same length, if I recall correctly from when I last did mine, so there's no "offset" like on some wheels. Once I got mine all laced up, I just made sure the runout was within spec, and ran with it.
Based on the wheel I have before I disassembled it, the rim was offset in the hub. I guess it depends on how your looking at the hub, i.e. rim centered between the wheel spacers or rim centered between the spoke holes in the hub, etc.... The stock DRZ400S spokes come in two lengths (a few mm's difference). Aftermarket spokes usually are one length.

If someone (preferably S model) could take a measurement from the edge of the rear rim to a fixed point, like the swingarm or brake rotor or sprocket. As long as you specify where you measured, I can work with that. Sucks it’s not in the service manual.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:35 AM   #17620
buls4evr
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Location: Michissippi & Nuevo Mexico
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Originally Posted by Murf2 View Post
Hi all, I just got a deal on an 05 DRZ. I was looking for a DR650 but this was too good to pass up. It's got 4.5K on it & is in nice shape. Now for my questions.

1. Is the owners manual very useful? I didn't get one and am thinking of buying one. Where is a good place to order it>

2. I plan on getting a shop manual. What is the best shop manual out there?

4. I can't speak to the original owner, so I'm trying to figure out what has been done to it. It has the top of the air box opened up. It runs fine & reacts to the choke as normal. Should I assume it has probably been jetted?

5. Below the float bowl on the LH side there is a plastic knob attached to what looks like a tube or sleeve that runs up to the bottom of the carb. Is this for idle mixture adjustment?

6. It has an aftermarket tail light/ turn signal thingy on it. It tucks the signal lights in tight. They flash fast tho. Do I need to put some sort of resistor on it? Where could I find info on this?

Thanks for the time!

Murf
1. Useless except for the most basic items.

2. The best one comes from your Suzuki shop and is $65. All others pale in comparison.

3.?, 4. No you should not. You only know it has the 3X3 so far. It is really worth it to actually open up the carb and find out. You never said if an E or S model. CV carb or pumper? You need to know Keintech and JD Jetting.

5. That is your idle adjustment.

6. Behind the headlight there is a resitor/flasher assembly . It is plug and play. You have LED light with a standard res/flasher and need one for LEDs. They are available from Wheeling Cycle Supply and many other sources.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:55 AM   #17621
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
Not sure what measurements you want, I have an E swingarm and linkage laying around, and an SM swingarm on the bike now. When you lace the wheel, wouldn't you just align the rim to the hub? All the spokes are the same length, if I recall correctly from when I last did mine, so there's no "offset" like on some wheels. Once I got mine all laced up, I just made sure the runout was within spec, and ran with it.
Depends on the wheel, width, hub type etc. if an SM rim is not offset properly it will rub assuming you are running wide rubber. Mine is offset to fit the 150
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:15 AM   #17622
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plane Dr View Post
Depends on the wheel, width, hub type etc. if an SM rim is not offset properly it will rub assuming you are running wide rubber. Mine is offset to fit the 150
I'm looking for stock 2.15 rear rim and stock hub offset, S model. I don't need to offset for chain rub.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:36 AM   #17623
carbon_unit
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I have a couple sets of S wheels.
I can go lay a steel rule across the sprocket and measure down to the edge of the rim. Will that tell you what you need?
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:42 AM   #17624
Homercules
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Originally Posted by Bad Daddy View Post
I put on LED signals, and after a few near misses by caters that didn't see me (almost got my left turn badge) decided to look for a fix.

My Heritage Softail had turn signals that were running lights, which added to my visibility for other motorists.

This kit

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.p...&product_id=70

does the same.
+1

A few years ago I installed the 12 O'clock Labs edge tail light upgrade and noticed that their signals in the tail light ran out of sync. I emailed them and they sent me a set of those (pre-production model). To get the lights in sync they are ON all the time and turn off with the flash signal. Simple yet effective. They really do increase visibility on the DRZ and I highly recommend them. The guys at 12 O'Clock are awesome to deal with
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:57 AM   #17625
carbon_unit
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OK, I went out and measured my S. One set of wheels is on the bike and one set is not.
On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. My other set of wheels measured 2.350 inches from the outside surface of the sprocket to the edge of the rim.
Hope this helps.
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