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Old 02-27-2013, 11:07 AM   #17626
bmwpowere36m3
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Location: Shelton, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
OK, I went out and measured my S. One set of wheels is on the bike and one set is not.
On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. My other set of wheels measured 2.350 inches from the outside surface of the sprocket to the edge of the rim.
Hope this helps.
Thanks a lot If I could ask one more huge favor, if you could also measure from the rotor side on both sets of wheels.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:35 AM   #17627
carbon_unit
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On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. The other set measures 1.35" from the outer surface of the rotor to the edge of the rim.
Disclaimer: The wheel that is not on the bike may or may not be true. I never checked it. The wheel on the bike is true.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:43 PM   #17628
Muddler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
They still make the 120, I think he just meant that 130 is as wide as the D606 gets in an 18" diameter. For flotation purposes, he's not considering 120s (obviously).
Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded). The Pirelli MT21 140/80 seems like an option?
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:12 PM   #17629
WayneJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim.
I measured mine today and got the same dimensions.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:45 PM   #17630
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddler View Post
Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded).
Have u tried Kenda Trakmaster 760 II? It's almost a street legat paddle tire. They have them in 120/100-18.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:21 PM   #17631
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. The other set measures 1.35" from the outer surface of the rotor to the edge of the rim.
Disclaimer: The wheel that is not on the bike may or may not be true. I never checked it. The wheel on the bike is true.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneJ View Post
I measured mine today and got the same dimensions.
Thanks a bunch guys!
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:52 AM   #17632
Danielmoben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dante_alighieri View Post
Hi guys!

Only a shoot of a new (for me) DRZ S



In Spain, last weekend
:p
using tapatalk!
Nice, you wont regret about the bike!

www.mobenmotorcycles.blogspot.com
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:55 AM   #17633
Muddler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
A 140/80 MT-21 will work... During the shoot out for the standard fit on our club bikes a group of experienced riders tried both (back to back on the same day) including heavily loaded in sand and reckon that overall the 130/90 is the better tyre for the DR-Z.

Before everyone jumps all over the "better tyre" comment like a pack of rabid dingos on a baby, the comment is in relation to a comparison between the 130/90 MT-21 and 140/80 MT-21.
Thanks Numbers, useful feedback
Eddy, that Kenda looks nice. I need have a fairly long trip planned, so (perhaps wrongly) I'm figuring the less aggressive MT will last a few more miles.

Apologies everyone for talking tyres
Cheers
Rob
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:50 AM   #17634
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'dan View Post
I'm trying to be proactive and looking to replace the float valve assembly since it has been running on E10 fuel for the last 5 years. I don't want to pay Suzuki's price so after a little searching on the web I've found several other machines that use the BSR36 carburetor. Yamaha's Raptor and Grizzly to name two. Bike Bandit has part #1800883 needle/seat assembly for $19.99 as opposed to Suzuki's part at $56.17. Has anyone tried this yet or should I be the lab rat?
Nothing generally goes wrong with the seat, so you should be able to just replace the needle and o-ring.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:57 AM   #17635
Okipouros
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So, a friend brought me a dr-z he bought cheap with a blown engine..

I open up and I find this:


IMG_4344

Also the cams and head had signs of severe lack of lubrication, so then i found this:


IMG_4337

And I noticed the following issues:

- Its plastic and cooked in oil
- Its drafted (see picture below) due to injection molded manufacturing process, so the the load is not shared equally
- Being plastic, it can have manufacturing faults such as material impurities, bad process which can cause a number of problems that lead to an early failure


IMG_4340

So I got one made from steel, which will last forever.


idle gear

IMG_4341

Machined in molybdenium steel alloy used for gears by a specialist shop that only does gears

Tried it, and it feels like there is much less friction compared to the plastic one, and that it meshes smoother



Also thinking of adding 5 holes to ligthen it up, machine shop told me its $6 extra, and can be done if needed, personally, I dont think it will make a difference, cause there are much heavier things in there, with even larger moment of inertia to lighten up


http://www.flickr.com/photos/3529143...n/photostream/

If people are interested I can get some made, but the bigger the order the lower the cost, so let me know if you are interested

Cost is estimated at €42/£37/$55 +p&p (about $5 extra)
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:59 AM   #17636
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINZ View Post
Any chance you have the petcock on "prime" and not "on" and are just flooding it?
That shouldn't matter, as the float valve should still prevent overflowing.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:48 PM   #17637
XRman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Have u tried Kenda Trakmaster 760 II? It's almost a street legat paddle tire. They have them in 120/100-18.
just did a 1600 km trip over various surfaces on a rear Kenda 760 11 . I liked it. about 1/2 worn out, but there was a few hours of high speed sealed roads included in the trip.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:10 PM   #17638
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okipouros View Post
So, a friend brought me a dr-z he bought cheap with a blown engine..

I open up and I find this:




Also the cams and head had signs of severe lack of lubrication, so then i found this:




And I noticed the following issues:

- Its plastic and cooked in oil
- Its drafted (see picture below) due to injection molded manufacturing process, so the the load is not shared equally
- Being plastic, it can have manufacturing faults such as material impurities, bad process which can cause a number of problems that lead to an early failure




So I got one made from steel, which will last forever.






Machined in molybdenium steel alloy used for gears by a specialist shop that only does gears

Tried it, and it feels like there is much less friction compared to the plastic one, and that it meshes smoother



Also thinking of adding 5 holes to ligthen it up, machine shop told me its $6 extra, and can be done if needed, personally, I dont think it will make a difference, cause there are much heavier things in there, with even larger moment of inertia to lighten up


http://www.flickr.com/photos/3529143...n/photostream/

If people are interested I can get some made, but the bigger the order the lower the cost, so let me know if you are interested

Cost is estimated at €42/£37/$55 +p&p (about $5 extra)
I would be interested in the drilled and lightened version.
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #17639
ol'dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Nothing generally goes wrong with the seat, so you should be able to just replace the needle and o-ring.

Regards,

Derek
I agree but it seems every parts source only sells them as a set. The o-ring should be easy to find. Do you know where to get just the needle?
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:43 PM   #17640
focallength
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Location: Laffin at yer mule
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okipouros View Post
So, a friend brought me a dr-z he bought cheap with a blown engine..

I open up and I find this:


IMG_4344

Also the cams and head had signs of severe lack of lubrication, so then i found this:


IMG_4337

And I noticed the following issues:

- Its plastic and cooked in oil
- Its drafted (see picture below) due to injection molded manufacturing process, so the the load is not shared equally
- Being plastic, it can have manufacturing faults such as material impurities, bad process which can cause a number of problems that lead to an early failure


IMG_4340

So I got one made from steel, which will last forever.


idle gear

IMG_4341

Machined in molybdenium steel alloy used for gears by a specialist shop that only does gears

Tried it, and it feels like there is much less friction compared to the plastic one, and that it meshes smoother



Also thinking of adding 5 holes to ligthen it up, machine shop told me its $6 extra, and can be done if needed, personally, I dont think it will make a difference, cause there are much heavier things in there, with even larger moment of inertia to lighten up


http://www.flickr.com/photos/3529143...n/photostream/

If people are interested I can get some made, but the bigger the order the lower the cost, so let me know if you are interested

Cost is estimated at €42/£37/$55 +p&p (about $5 extra)
Theyre plastic for a reason, or do you honestly think suzuki just got lazy and said, hey lets just make some of the gears plastic.
Fyi its not a load bearing gear, it just spins a pump.
If the pump fails it breaks a plastic gear, if the pump fails (or the gear fails)and the plastic gear dosent break you wont know it until your engine seizes. But good luck with your revelation...

Head on over to thumpertalk youll make billions and that will be the latest and greatest "must do, or babies will spontaneously combust" fixe.
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focallength screwed with this post 02-28-2013 at 07:49 PM
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