Drz400 Thread

[dbye]

Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY

I took the DRZ on a ride on Sunday. It was mostly washes & various terrains. Here's one of my vids.

http://youtu.be/eSQRXwD_AVY

Nice video, looked like a cool ride.

[Xylx]

http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/gsaauctions/

Noticed this the other day. Click on By Location, then New Hampshire. Bike is in Keene. You have to register for the site and send them a dollar via a credit card or something. I forget, but it's painless. I registered a few years ago. Looks like someone could get a good deal on this bike. I would buy it for the parts alone at the current bid price if I lived in New England.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

I was under the impression that the kibble whites didnt last long at all and tjat people have had a lot of priblems with the valve Springs. I think ron hamp uses ferra valves and then adds the coating to them like suzuki does.

Edit: Here's my thread from when I rebuikt my head. I pretty much asked everything that is needed to know. My gosh I was such a noob. www.thumpertalk.com/topic/643778-valve-replacement-cost/

You've been drinking a lot of that SSW/RHC/TT branded Cool-Aid.

TT is a commercial site with vendor forums paid for by the likes of SSW who have a commercial interest in pushing components like those from RHC for which SSW has an exclusivity deal. SSW has a vested interest in seeing his exclusive products held up over more commonly available and in many cases less expensive parts. TT and its moderators (SSW is one of them) have an interest in keeping its vendors happy so enforce the line...

Most of the few problems with KW springs and valves seem to come about through inappropriately matched parts, possibly poor workmanship and what I'd normally describe as abuse.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by 150ron

Ok to take off in 2nd gear while in traffic? stock geaing 15/44 ''s'' model?

I find while in red lights or on the street in general, taking off in 2nd gear works pretty good, gets up to 30mph right away, and puts me in front of everybody.

What's it doing to your clutch?

I wouldn't.

[Plane Dr]

Originally Posted by Starchamp

The valves are within spec, but on the tight side. I'm looking at replacing the enire valvetrain with a Kibblewhite stainless valve/spring/Ti retainer set, which I imagine (hope) can just be lapped to the seat (shouldn't be any funky coating on the stainless, right?). Though it's an SM, it sees a lot more dirt that tarmack, so I like the added reliability of the one-piece valves. Guess I'll start shopping! Thanks!

At the first check it is expected to have to reshim them. Pretty standard. But if they are still in spec, they are in spec. The valves on a DRZ should be checked just because. Then once you see them start moving then worry, till then ride it.

Do not lap the valves you will booger them.

I'm not sure how to define abuse. Valves go up and down just like they are intended. That said I do use most engines at the high end of their operating perameters.

I have been on TT and ADV a long time and there have been Kibble white failures, stock failures etc. When you don't know who installed them, or how, it brings the whole deal into question.

Yes Eddie has a vested interest in TT. I've been dealing with him for a long time and he does great work at a reasonable price and is a stand up guy. If you have a "guy" feel free, there are lots of good ones out there. It's all comfort. I had one guy that I let work on my RG500. No one else touched it. For the price of shipping, plus his rates were good, Eddie got my engine. I do everything else myself.

I personally love cool aid especially with Vodka. Looks Girly nobody suspects a thing....

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by Plane Dr

At the first check it is expected to have to reshim them. Pretty standard. But if they are still in spec, they are in spec. The valves on a DRZ should be checked just because. Then once you see them start moving then worry, till then ride it.

Do not lap the valves you will booger them.

I'm not sure how to define abuse. Valves go up and down just like they are intended. That said I do use most engines at the high end of their operating perameters.

I have been on TT and ADV a long time and there have been Kibble white failures, stock failures etc. When you don't know who installed them, or how, it brings the whole deal into question.

Yes Eddie has a vested interest in TT. I've been dealing with him for a long time and he does great work at a reasonable price and is a stand up guy. If you have a "guy" feel free, there are lots of good ones out there. It's all comfort. I had one guy that I let work on my RG500. No one else touched it. For the price of shipping, plus his rates were good, Eddie got my engine. I do everything else myself.

I personally love cool aid especially with Vodka. Looks Girly nobody suspects a thing....

Agreed.

I do all my own work except for machine work. I have been burned in the past by a machine shop with my old turbo civic engine. Lesson learned there. I feel Eddie knows more about what works with these engines than most anyone. I also understand what the coating on the valves is for and what it does and have made my own decision not to ever put non coated valves in my head. Also when I need machine work done to my head its well worth the $40 round trip it takes to get the head to him and back.

I think he even runs a everyday special now on head rebuilds.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[focallength]

Originally Posted by 955616846

You've been drinking a lot of that SSW/RHC/TT branded Cool-Aid.

TT is a commercial site with vendor forums paid for by the likes of SSW who have a commercial interest in pushing components like those from RHC for which SSW has an exclusivity deal. SSW has a vested interest in seeing his exclusive products held up over more commonly available and in many cases less expensive parts. TT and its moderators (SSW is one of them) have an interest in keeping its vendors happy so enforce the line...

Most of the few problems with KW springs and valves seem to come about through inappropriately matched parts, possibly poor workmanship and what I'd normally describe as abuse.

Ok, so what do you suggest? Kibblewhite them selves told me not to use their product in my engine. Whats a better valve/spring combo? SSW said they can give me a complete head minus cams for under $500, including the head. Im not a "eddie is god" guy, but it seems like a good deal to me, plus they do know the drz...

[Jvs]

Originally Posted by focallength

why? no rain or snow forecasted...

I can barely breathe outside, no way I could ride! Don't even think my dizzer would start when it's this cold :(

[The Recycled Teenager]

Originally Posted by Jvs

I can barely breathe outside, no way I could ride! Don't even think my dizzer would start when it's this cold :(

Report from the coldest capital on the planet today!!

If you want COLD then how's about minus 41 Celsius with wind chill today, thats enough to freeze the nuts of you bike

Luckily my DZr is in my heated garage

[Rockaway]

Originally Posted by Vulfy

Hey all. My DRZ all of a sudden developed a real bad surging when the throttle is open about 1/3. Bike behaves like it is running out of fuel. If I open throttle more, surging goes away, but bike feels under-powered, even when I completely open up the throttle.

Here are a few things that happened prior to this.

1. Cold weather. I've never ran this DRZ in cold weather yet (got it just this fall). This might be the culprit, but how to fix it for cold weather, if its so?

2. Diluted gas with Sea Foam. I've been using Sea Foam on all my bikes without any problems. However DRZ is my first thumper. A friend of mine used to have a 125cc MZ Super Moto, and he experienced the same problem when we added a little bit of Sea Foam to his tank. After next refueling, without adding more Sea Foam, his bike was behaving normal, without any surging. I still have a good amount of gas in the tank, so did not refuel yet.

3. A week earlier, I left the fuel switch in the "primer" position, and rode the bike for a while like that. I then proceeded to turn the bike off and left it for a few hours, not running. After I came back, the bike wouldn't start. I completely depleted the battery, trying to start it.

At that point I noticed the fuel switch, and twisted it back to "ON" position. (There is no "OFF", only "ON" and "Prime")

I left my bike at my parent's house, took out the battery and re-charged it at home. Bike sat like that for a whole week.
After re-installing the battery, bike did start up, but after that it started to surge.

4. I have a feeling that it has to do with the carburetor, but its clean, as the bike been in the shop only recently, and the carburetor has been cleaned.

5. Could it be a fouled up spark plug?

Please keep in mind that I don't have a lot of experience, maintaining bikes, nor do I have space to take it apart. (I live in the apartment, and nobody that I know has an available garage for tinkering).

I usually take my bikes to the shop for maintenance, for any repairs needed. However with constant abuse I put on my bikes, the small repairs like these start to pile up and so do the costs.

I'd like to avoid taking it to the shop for this, and try to fix the problem myself. Of course, having limited knowledge, tools, and most importantly space where to work on the bike, I can only do so much, before I'm forced to take it to the shop.

Sounds like you have a oil gas mixture in your oil reservoir. Done that on a dr200 by mistake. Check the oil level. It may be plum full with gas oil mixture.

If so drain the mixture completely. Then change the oil and oil filter. Take spark plug out and put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder. This will help with the lack of oil in the cylinder. Run it for 5 min. Then change the oil and filter again. This should get the oil where it needs to be in the engine.

I don't use the prim setting on my pet cock any more. Just chock it!!! For a minute of so.

I hope this helps.

Greg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Rockaway]

Originally Posted by Vulfy

Hey all. My DRZ all of a sudden developed a real bad surging when the throttle is open about 1/3. Bike behaves like it is running out of fuel. If I open throttle more, surging goes away, but bike feels under-powered, even when I completely open up the throttle.

Here are a few things that happened prior to this.

1. Cold weather. I've never ran this DRZ in cold weather yet (got it just this fall). This might be the culprit, but how to fix it for cold weather, if its so?

2. Diluted gas with Sea Foam. I've been using Sea Foam on all my bikes without any problems. However DRZ is my first thumper. A friend of mine used to have a 125cc MZ Super Moto, and he experienced the same problem when we added a little bit of Sea Foam to his tank. After next refueling, without adding more Sea Foam, his bike was behaving normal, without any surging. I still have a good amount of gas in the tank, so did not refuel yet.

3. A week earlier, I left the fuel switch in the "primer" position, and rode the bike for a while like that. I then proceeded to turn the bike off and left it for a few hours, not running. After I came back, the bike wouldn't start. I completely depleted the battery, trying to start it.

At that point I noticed the fuel switch, and twisted it back to "ON" position. (There is no "OFF", only "ON" and "Prime")

I left my bike at my parent's house, took out the battery and re-charged it at home. Bike sat like that for a whole week.
After re-installing the battery, bike did start up, but after that it started to surge.

4. I have a feeling that it has to do with the carburetor, but its clean, as the bike been in the shop only recently, and the carburetor has been cleaned.

5. Could it be a fouled up spark plug?

Please keep in mind that I don't have a lot of experience, maintaining bikes, nor do I have space to take it apart. (I live in the apartment, and nobody that I know has an available garage for tinkering).

I usually take my bikes to the shop for maintenance, for any repairs needed. However with constant abuse I put on my bikes, the small repairs like these start to pile up and so do the costs.

I'd like to avoid taking it to the shop for this, and try to fix the problem myself. Of course, having limited knowledge, tools, and most importantly space where to work on the bike, I can only do so much, before I'm forced to take it to the shop.

Also check your air filter area. The air filter on my dr200 was soaked with fuel with the prim open on the petcock. Big mess!!

Greg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Plane Dr]

Originally Posted by focallength

Ok, so what do you suggest? Kibblewhite them selves told me not to use their product in my engine. Whats a better valve/spring combo? SSW said they can give me a complete head minus cams for under $500, including the head. Im not a "eddie is god" guy, but it seems like a good deal to me, plus they do know the drz...

Ferrea is the only other one I know. I haven't heard of any others. I drank the cool aid and have RHC valves, springs, cams, plus the o/s for the stroker.... When I bought them I bought straight from Ron. But I don't think Eddie marks them up any more than Ron did.

If you ride a BB Stroker and get carried away you'll pray to any God who'll listen.

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by Plane Dr

Ferrea is the only other one I know. I haven't heard of any others. I drank the cool aid and have RHC valves, springs, cams, plus the o/s for the stroker.... When I bought them I bought straight from Ron. But I don't think Eddie marks them up any more than Ron did.

If you ride a BB Stroker and get carried away you'll pray to any God who'll listen.

Ron hamp valves are coated ferra valves.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using tapatalk 2

[Ryel]

Originally Posted by Xylx

http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/gsaauctions/

Noticed this the other day. Click on By Location, then New Hampshire. Bike is in Keene. You have to register for the site and send them a dollar via a credit card or something. I forget, but it's painless. I registered a few years ago. Looks like someone could get a good deal on this bike. I would buy it for the parts alone at the current bid price if I lived in New England.

wow, wish it was on the west coast, I would push that bid past $600!

[Bobby Ginger]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

Ron hamp valves are coated ferra valves.

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