Drz400 Thread

[bobbed06]

So I went for a ride after work and the headlight worked fine. Then after this rough dirt road I lost BOTH my high and low beam. This evening I looked into it and had no 12v at the bulb connector, so I opened the headlight switch to discover the Yellow/White wire on the top of the switch had broke loose at the solder joint. I will resolder it tomorrow evening after work.

Just thought I would share....

[bobbed06]

Originally Posted by blaster11

Picked up a Trail Tech Vapor for the DRZ and was wondering if there are any tricks to get the tachometer to work reliabily or just wrap it around the plug wire and call it good?

Thanks

Connect it directly the coil pack via a piggyback spade connector

[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by blaster11

Anybody wired directly into the coil?

Mine is. Just cut the signal wire and solder and heart shrink it all together.

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[DualSportDad]

Originally Posted by bobbed06

Connect it directly the coil pack via a piggyback spade connector

Do not do this. You are asking for a corroded or broken wire. Use solder and Marine heat shrink.

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[blaster11]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

Mine is. Just cut the signal wire and solder and heart shrink it all together.

[p0diabl0]

I just wrapped it... never had a problem in 4+ years.

[Adrian V]

I want to remove the helmet lock, but leave the frame tab behind to mount a tool tube, anyone know the easiest way to do this? It looks like I could drill out the bolts, is that the best way?

Cheers,

Adrian

[DRDeano]

Originally Posted by Adrian V

I want to remove the helmet lock, but leave the frame tab behind to mount a tool tube, anyone know the easiest way to do this? It looks like I could drill out the bolts, is that the best way?

Cheers,

Adrian

Unlock it with the key then undo the screw behind the retracted bar. Easy!

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[Adrian V]

God I feel dumb now . That looks like a tamper proof torx bit, any idea what size?

Cheers,

Adrian

[ifixfords]

Originally Posted by ohgood

Something is wrong with his jetting, brakes, or technique. S, SM, E will all walk along nice and slow with 14/47 (assuming 18/21" wheels on them) gearing just fine. Fix his jetting, no need in making miraculous claims about E's.

I beg to differ. I have a 2001 E and a 2004 S (with stock BSR). There is a big difference between the two (both are 14/47). The fcr carb has an accelerator pump, which is what changes the throttle response. If an E model doesn't perform better than a stock S or you have issues with starting there is something wrong. My E starts reliably hot or cold at temps from 100 F down to 25 F, it has the stock FCR jetted to match the full yosh system. Even a stock E should have better throttle response.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with a stock S model. Just takes a little more clutch and rpm control compared to the E. Love my DRZs. :)

[luni]

Since it seems relevant once upon a time I heard from a guy (yup) that the slide in a vacuum carb could jostle a bit in washboard or rough track and make inconsistent fuel delivery even with steady throttle application just from the mechanics of the carb. A pumper carb, by design, doesn't have this problem making for quicker and more consistent throttle.

True? Outlandish hootenanny? Often unspoken benefit of pumper vs vacuum carb?

When I was rebuilding my S I got a great deal on a pumper carb and it made a complete difference from the jetted 3x3 I had before.

[150ron]

For all you guys that went from the stock mikuni carb to the FCR, has your mpg's decreased by much?

[luni]

55mpg wide open everywhere to 45mpg on a good day.

[ifixfords]

Originally Posted by luni

55mpg wide open everywhere to 45mpg on a good day.

+1

DRZ400E Tagged
KTM200XC-W ""

[SSG B]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon B. Unless, that is, you have an 'E' with the FCR, big cams, high compression and the snorkel removed. Then rejet said FCR carb. The low-end torque is *very* noticeable. The throttle response, too. Inmate SSgB has an '01 E with stock carb & pipe but open airbox. I have an '05 E with full Yosh exhaust and fat jets. Mine will leave his in the dust every time! Same gearing on the two - 14 & 47. Mine will 'tractor' along on the single track without slipping the clutch quite nicely. He's riding the clutch and keeping the RPMs up to pull his along. The E already has a better pipe than the S (I think; could be mistaken), so the improvement will be more significant, provided you can get air and fuel into the cylinder to complement the outflow. Jon

Something is wrong with his jetting, brakes, or technique. S, SM, E will all walk along nice and slow with 14/47 (assuming 18/21" wheels on them) gearing just fine. Fix his jetting, no need in making miraculous claims about E's.


^Originally posted by "ohgood" ^
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _-

There might be some jetting that is needed as it does not start all that easily and likes the choke until it is good and warm. However, the brakes work just fine, and my technique is decent.

Jon's claims are true, his 05 with a full yosh system will walk away from mine on a drag race. It will also tractor along much better than mine will. My 01 is not slow or underpowered by any means, but his, with a pipe, does in fact have a lot more "go" in it and that "go" wants to get out faster.

Granted this is all gauged by the calibrated seat of my pants, so take it for what it is worth. He would win a drag race hands down every time. Wheel size and gearing is the same on the both of them.

My $.02