Drz400 Thread

[carbon_unit]

I have a couple sets of S wheels.
I can go lay a steel rule across the sprocket and measure down to the edge of the rim. Will that tell you what you need?

[Homercules]

Originally Posted by Bad Daddy

I put on LED signals, and after a few near misses by caters that didn't see me (almost got my left turn badge) decided to look for a fix.

My Heritage Softail had turn signals that were running lights, which added to my visibility for other motorists.

This kit

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.p...&product_id=70

does the same.

+1

A few years ago I installed the 12 O'clock Labs edge tail light upgrade and noticed that their signals in the tail light ran out of sync. I emailed them and they sent me a set of those (pre-production model). To get the lights in sync they are ON all the time and turn off with the flash signal. Simple yet effective. They really do increase visibility on the DRZ and I highly recommend them. The guys at 12 O'Clock are awesome to deal with

[carbon_unit]

OK, I went out and measured my S. One set of wheels is on the bike and one set is not.
On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. My other set of wheels measured 2.350 inches from the outside surface of the sprocket to the edge of the rim.
Hope this helps.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted by carbon_unit

OK, I went out and measured my S. One set of wheels is on the bike and one set is not.
On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. My other set of wheels measured 2.350 inches from the outside surface of the sprocket to the edge of the rim.
Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot If I could ask one more huge favor, if you could also measure from the rotor side on both sets of wheels.

[carbon_unit]

On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. The other set measures 1.35" from the outer surface of the rotor to the edge of the rim.
Disclaimer: The wheel that is not on the bike may or may not be true. I never checked it. The wheel on the bike is true.

[Muddler]

Originally Posted by Starchamp

They still make the 120, I think he just meant that 130 is as wide as the D606 gets in an 18" diameter. For flotation purposes, he's not considering 120s (obviously).

Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded). The Pirelli MT21 140/80 seems like an option?

[WayneJ]

Originally Posted by carbon_unit

On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim.

Originally Posted by carbon_unit

On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim.

I measured mine today and got the same dimensions.

[DR650SEDDY]

Originally Posted by Muddler

Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded).

Have u tried Kenda Trakmaster 760 II? It's almost a street legat paddle tire. They have them in 120/100-18.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by Muddler

Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded). The Pirelli MT21 140/80 seems like an option?

A 140/80 MT-21 will work... During the shoot out for the standard fit on our club bikes a group of experienced riders tried both (back to back on the same day) including heavily loaded in sand and reckon that overall the 130/90 is the better tyre for the DR-Z.

Before everyone jumps all over the "better tyre" comment like a pack of rabid dingos on a baby, the comment is in relation to a comparison between the 130/90 MT-21 and 140/80 MT-21.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted by carbon_unit

On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. The other set measures 1.35" from the outer surface of the rotor to the edge of the rim.
Disclaimer: The wheel that is not on the bike may or may not be true. I never checked it. The wheel on the bike is true.

Originally Posted by WayneJ

I measured mine today and got the same dimensions.

Thanks a bunch guys!

[Danielmoben]

Originally Posted by dante_alighieri

Hi guys!

Only a shoot of a new (for me) DRZ S



In Spain, last weekend
:p
using tapatalk!

Nice, you wont regret about the bike!

www.mobenmotorcycles.blogspot.com

[Muddler]

Originally Posted by 955616846

A 140/80 MT-21 will work... During the shoot out for the standard fit on our club bikes a group of experienced riders tried both (back to back on the same day) including heavily loaded in sand and reckon that overall the 130/90 is the better tyre for the DR-Z.

Before everyone jumps all over the "better tyre" comment like a pack of rabid dingos on a baby, the comment is in relation to a comparison between the 130/90 MT-21 and 140/80 MT-21.

Thanks Numbers, useful feedback
Eddy, that Kenda looks nice. I need have a fairly long trip planned, so (perhaps wrongly) I'm figuring the less aggressive MT will last a few more miles.

Apologies everyone for talking tyres
Cheers
Rob

[motolab]

Originally Posted by ol'dan

I'm trying to be proactive and looking to replace the float valve assembly since it has been running on E10 fuel for the last 5 years. I don't want to pay Suzuki's price so after a little searching on the web I've found several other machines that use the BSR36 carburetor. Yamaha's Raptor and Grizzly to name two. Bike Bandit has part #1800883 needle/seat assembly for $19.99 as opposed to Suzuki's part at $56.17. Has anyone tried this yet or should I be the lab rat?

Nothing generally goes wrong with the seat, so you should be able to just replace the needle and o-ring.

Regards,

Derek

[Okipouros]

So, a friend brought me a dr-z he bought cheap with a blown engine..

I open up and I find this:




Also the cams and head had signs of severe lack of lubrication, so then i found this:




And I noticed the following issues:

- Its plastic and cooked in oil
- Its drafted (see picture below) due to injection molded manufacturing process, so the the load is not shared equally
- Being plastic, it can have manufacturing faults such as material impurities, bad process which can cause a number of problems that lead to an early failure




So I got one made from steel, which will last forever.






Machined in molybdenium steel alloy used for gears by a specialist shop that only does gears

Tried it, and it feels like there is much less friction compared to the plastic one, and that it meshes smoother



Also thinking of adding 5 holes to ligthen it up, machine shop told me its $6 extra, and can be done if needed, personally, I dont think it will make a difference, cause there are much heavier things in there, with even larger moment of inertia to lighten up


http://www.flickr.com/photos/3529143...n/photostream/

If people are interested I can get some made, but the bigger the order the lower the cost, so let me know if you are interested

Cost is estimated at €42/£37/$55 +p&p (about $5 extra)

[motolab]

Originally Posted by SKINZ

Any chance you have the petcock on "prime" and not "on" and are just flooding it?

That shouldn't matter, as the float valve should still prevent overflowing.

Regards,

Derek