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Old 04-14-2013, 04:06 AM   #18316
Murf2
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Kansas
Oddometer: 801
carlclaflin, Installing the links is easy. I just did it & slid the forks up in the triple trees yesterday. Might have taken an hour. I didn't time myself. I had to put more preload on the rear spring after the links. I'm still fiddling with it but it was worth doing for me. Much easier to get on & off.

I bought my links used from a member here but I think you can buy them on Ebay for around $25. Good Luck!

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Old 04-14-2013, 05:42 AM   #18317
bastardbiker
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Location: North Richmond, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
I might try those later this year, when I burn through my D606's.
What size are you using? (they are in inches, stock size would be 4.3" wide... they have 4.1", 4.6" and 5.1")

I try to stay on the dirt with the DRZ, but I wouldn't mind a tire that is a tad less squirmy on the pavement. I do love the 606's in the dirt though.

Let us know how the wear is on the Shinko 244's. I would like to hear, because the way I ride, I think the 606's won't last much over 1500mi.

My front is 3" and I went with a 5.1 for the rear. Both pretty close to the stock sizes, the rear's just a bit wider. The tires feel very good together. Extremely planted in a deep lean, no noticeable squirming at all. I might go a size up in the front for next time. Wear is pretty much unnoticeable so far on the front after about 500 miles.

They do great in the dirt too. In this video I'm running a 244 front and it never slid out on me. (yellow bike)

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Old 04-14-2013, 09:06 AM   #18318
Falcon86
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
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Grrrrrr spent the last hour trying to get my DRZ started and missed a group trail ride in the process.

When i put key in and turn to on position, lights come on like normal, neutral light, headlight etc, but when I hit starter button, nothing happens. It's acting like the killswitch is engaged, but it's not. I can push/bump start it and she runs great, but she won't start with the button.

Yes it's in neutral, clutch is in, etc. Killswitch not engaged.

Advice?
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:35 AM   #18319
mineolaman
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Oddometer: 60
tire mileage

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
How much life do you get out of these? Do you recommend the front too?
Yes, I do in fact recommend the 270 for front and rear. I also like the Kenda Trackmaster II for the front, fairly aggressive and seems to wear really well. Very soft rubber and will bite most surfaces really well. Most folks seem to get between 2,500 and 5,000 miles out of the 270. Some reports around 7-8,000. Depends on how and where you ride I suppose.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:37 AM   #18320
marine_mike
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Location: Mount Clemens, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Grrrrrr spent the last hour trying to get my DRZ started and missed a group trail ride in the process.

When i put key in and turn to on position, lights come on like normal, neutral light, headlight etc, but when I hit starter button, nothing happens. It's acting like the killswitch is engaged, but it's not. I can push/bump start it and she runs great, but she won't start with the button.

Yes it's in neutral, clutch is in, etc. Killswitch not engaged.

Advice?
Sounds like a dead starter to me.....but my motorcycle mechanics is limited to what I've read on here.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:47 AM   #18321
marine_mike
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Does anyone have their headlight harness easily accessible? Whoever tried to convert my 2KS to a strict dirt bike removing the left side controls, installing ATV bars and putting the headlight on a toggle. They've got two yellow wires into the harness connected and a white wire. I removed the ATV bars (installed pro taper), installed a control switch, new LED turns and have a bud trying to fab my 5x7 trucklight LED light in. Now.... I have power to the light when the ignition is on, but both High and low are on. I don't care, but I'm sure other cages might. Can someone snap a pic of the harness so I can see the wire setup? Oh....and the horn doesn't work. I have the schematics..... but I don't read spaghetti.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:58 AM   #18322
bastardbiker
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Location: North Richmond, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Grrrrrr spent the last hour trying to get my DRZ started and missed a group trail ride in the process.

When i put key in and turn to on position, lights come on like normal, neutral light, headlight etc, but when I hit starter button, nothing happens. It's acting like the killswitch is engaged, but it's not. I can push/bump start it and she runs great, but she won't start with the button.

Yes it's in neutral, clutch is in, etc. Killswitch not engaged.

Advice?
I think there might be a fuse between the battery and the starter. Check that first. Then check to see if you are actually getting power to the starter itself. Could be a loose connection somewhere, bad ground, or something like that. Do you get any clicks at all when you hit the starter button? Do you have a voltmeter? What's the voltage on the battery, does it have a good charge? Are you trying to start in neutral? You might want to try bypassing/jumping the clutch safety switch and also the sidestand safety switch to make sure that they are operating correctly.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:02 AM   #18323
threadkiller
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Location: White House, Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Grrrrrr spent the last hour trying to get my DRZ started and missed a group trail ride in the process.

When i put key in and turn to on position, lights come on like normal, neutral light, headlight etc, but when I hit starter button, nothing happens. It's acting like the killswitch is engaged, but it's not. I can push/bump start it and she runs great, but she won't start with the button.

Yes it's in neutral, clutch is in, etc. Killswitch not engaged.

Advice?
My first thought is the starter relay. Underneath the right side panel on the frame under the seat. With the key on and the bike in neutral, jump the two terminals with a wire (or a knife in a pinch). If the bike doesn't start, then I suspect a bad, corroded, or loose connection somewhere in the starter circuit or perhaps the starter brushes are getting worn.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:56 PM   #18324
Rwelch360
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Rochester, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
It is just the top clamp. Pictured is the top clamp with sub-mount and damper. The sub-mount produces 15-20mm lift. If the damper and sub-mount is not required it is possible to fit a top clamp and basic bar clamps and as a tidy solution fit spacers between the two to tailor the height.

http://www.brpmoto.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=49

BRP makes the Scott gear... different colours.

http://www.brpmoto.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=49
http://www.scottsperformance.com/Sta...t&BI_ID=258122

I have the Scott sub-mount...


Neutrals are often caused by technique.
They look sweet. I think I would get the one with the sub-mount. I plan on getting a stabilizer at some point anyways. I can just run it without one for the time being.

I wouldn't doubt my technique being an issue. I am a noob. I am sure I am shorting the shift. I really like to take off fast and I shift through the gears really quickly. Then forget I only have 5 and try for 6, before I remember. Thanks for all the input.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:28 PM   #18325
Gadget678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Grrrrrr spent the last hour trying to get my DRZ started and missed a group trail ride in the process.

When i put key in and turn to on position, lights come on like normal, neutral light, headlight etc, but when I hit starter button, nothing happens. It's acting like the killswitch is engaged, but it's not. I can push/bump start it and she runs great, but she won't start with the button.

Yes it's in neutral, clutch is in, etc. Killswitch not engaged.

Advice?
My first thought is the clutch or sidestand cut-outs....... I've disconnected mine as the clutch one just gave me the .............. And the sidestand became inconsistent.

I tried to start a mate's bike that still had his connected: it took me a while to figure out why the was no life in it.

Maybe try bypassing them and see if that helps (I'd start with the side stand).
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:56 PM   #18326
Falcon86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget678 View Post
My first thought is the clutch or sidestand cut-outs....... I've disconnected mine as the clutch one just gave me the .............. And the sidestand became inconsistent.

I tried to start a mate's bike that still had his connected: it took me a while to figure out why the was no life in it.

Maybe try bypassing them and see if that helps (I'd start with the side stand).
Yessir, turned out to be the clutch switch.

Super easy fix, but was a PITA trying to figure out what was going on!

Thanks to everyone who offered advice!
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:09 PM   #18327
bastardbiker
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Location: North Richmond, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Yessir, turned out to be the clutch switch.

Super easy fix, but was a PITA trying to figure out what was going on!

Thanks to everyone who offered advice!

Figures. Those switches are always a good place to look. Had the same issue with my Ninja 250 a couple of times. Glad you got it taken care of!
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:39 PM   #18328
ThomasVolomitz
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:47 PM   #18329
marine_mike
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I've got that same lift from harbor freight. One of the better things I've bought from there.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:56 PM   #18330
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Really makes working with bike much easier.
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