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Old 04-19-2013, 11:15 AM   #18421
LittleRedToyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
adjusting the chain, putting the bike up on a stand and compress the rear til level and adjust the chain sag ( something that is the point of where the chain will be the tightest).
sort of.

ideally, the best way to adjust any chain is to find the point in the swingarm travel where the front and rear sprockets are furthest from each other. (this is the point where the two sprockets and the swingarm pivot point are all in a straight line, and that is the point in the swingarm travel where the chain is stretched the tightest.)

then adjust the chain so there is just a little bit of play in it at that point.

but, to get the swingarm to that point and keep it there, you usually have to disconnect the rear shock. that's kind of a pain in the ass, and isn't really practically necessary.

the manual for most bikes will provide a way to adjust the chain without doing that. for the DRZ, iirc, the manual says to adjust the chain so that there is 1.5" to 2" of play in the bottom run of the chain at the midpoint of the run. i think the manual says you can do it with the bike either on the side stand or on a stand. (i prefer on a stand since that means the rear wheel is off the ground and easier to move back and forth.)

personally, though, i just use the old rule of the thumb of adjusting the chain so that my fattest three fingers (pointer, middle, and index) fit comfortably between the top of the swingarm and the top run of the chain with the bike on a stand...and err on the side of looser rather than tighter.

this is quick and easy and gets you very close to the manual spec (in fact, for me at least, i set the chain tension this way and then measured it according to the manual and it was within the spec).

just remember that it is far better to be too loose than too tight...and properly adjusted dirt bike chains often look like they are about to fall off the bike.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:30 AM   #18422
fifthcircle
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Originally Posted by oldenuf View Post
Any reason you are going with the Safari tank verses the IMS 4 gal tank?

Art
Safari is 4.5gal....and I read too many posts about the IMS tank not fitting well.

Safari sounds cool too...
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:39 PM   #18423
oclv454
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I've had my Safari for two years now. Never an ounce of problem. Before I bought it, I had spent a lot of time doing research. There were little gripes on both the Clarke and the IMS. Never found one negative comment on the Safari (other than it cost more.....).
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #18424
Falcon86
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If the Safari tanks cost a bit less, I'd have one by now.

Keep waiting to see a used one come up for sale, but no luck.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:42 PM   #18425
Garthe
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Hi guys, here is a link to my 2006 DRZ 400 E that's for sale.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880320

Thanks, Jim
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:32 PM   #18426
fifthcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
I've had my Safari for two years now. Never an ounce of problem. Before I bought it, I had spent a lot of time doing research. There were little gripes on both the Clarke and the IMS. Never found one negative comment on the Safari (other than it cost more.....).
Yeah, that exactly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
If the Safari tanks cost a bit less, I'd have one by now.

Keep waiting to see a used one come up for sale, but no luck.
I was here too... it was late one night, should've been in bed already, and I just said hell with it. ORDERED IT (justgastanks). It's one of those things that I kept looking at different tanks over and over, and finally decided to just get the one that I knew I would always be happy with. I'm sure when I am rolling back into Moab from a lap around the White Rim, I will be smiling that I still have gas (no, I don't have that trip planned yet, but it will happen )
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In short, adaptation is the precursor to growth and seeking out difficult, uncomfortable and challenging situations accelerates development, enriches our lives and provides us with the kind of awesome fucking memories that will sustain us until a final sleep rounds our little lives.
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:38 PM   #18427
150ron
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stock






$4 dollar blue tipped h4 bulb

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Old 04-19-2013, 10:57 PM   #18428
MrBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post


Please tell me more about your mirror setup. I need something for my KLX.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:27 AM   #18429
Muddler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
There is quite a difference in angle of the shot in relation to the headlight and exposure...
Yes, noticed that too.
Regardless, what is the best bulb to put in a stock DRZ. Was that halogen higher watts?
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:51 AM   #18430
carlclaflin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleRedToyota View Post
sort of.

ideally, the best way to adjust any chain is to find the point in the swingarm travel where the front and rear sprockets are furthest from each other. (this is the point where the two sprockets and the swingarm pivot point are all in a straight line, and that is the point in the swingarm travel where the chain is stretched the tightest.)

then adjust the chain so there is just a little bit of play in it at that point.

but, to get the swingarm to that point and keep it there, you usually have to disconnect the rear shock. that's kind of a pain in the ass, and isn't really practically necessary.

the manual for most bikes will provide a way to adjust the chain without doing that. for the DRZ, iirc, the manual says to adjust the chain so that there is 1.5" to 2" of play in the bottom run of the chain at the midpoint of the run. i think the manual says you can do it with the bike either on the side stand or on a stand. (i prefer on a stand since that means the rear wheel is off the ground and easier to move back and forth.)

personally, though, i just use the old rule of the thumb of adjusting the chain so that my fattest three fingers (pointer, middle, and index) fit comfortably between the top of the swingarm and the top run of the chain with the bike on a stand...and err on the side of looser rather than tighter.

this is quick and easy and gets you very close to the manual spec (in fact, for me at least, i set the chain tension this way and then measured it according to the manual and it was within the spec).

just remember that it is far better to be too loose than too tight...and properly adjusted dirt bike chains often look like they are about to fall off the bike.
cool, thank you. I really excited about getting this bike. my current back is 1994 xt225, good bike, but old and small.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:37 AM   #18431
Lat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plane Dr View Post
My base mileage went from 64mpg (UK/imp) to high 40's. But the improvements encourage harder floggings as well.
I'm getting over 20% better mileage with the flick of a switch - or two! I didn't realize my trip odometers where set at seventy something percent factor until I got in from a ride yesterday and knew the mileage had to be wrong. The trip meter was saying 70 something when I knew I had been over a hundred.

I set the trip meters to 100% factor and the trip meter mileage went up to around 127 miles!

I know what you are saying about the "harder floggings", Doc! The fun factor and civility of the DRZ is like night/day difference after doing the carb mod!

We should get together sometime. Heck, we may have already bumped into each other at a local BMW meeting and not realized? I am in the Richardson part of the metromess, Plane Dr. Thanks for the input! ~Jeff
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:35 AM   #18432
150ron
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Got a few pm's about the light bulb, its a H4 bulb with the same LOW/HI dual filament bulb as the stocker 55/60 i think, clear bulb with a blue tip.

got it on ebay, 8 bucks shipped for 2, definately better then the stock yellow light, hard to tell in the pics, but it has a nice hint of blue too, at night it looks much whiter and brighter.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:44 AM   #18433
carlclaflin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleRedToyota View Post
it's still a problem.

however, over time and having witnessed the CS loctite fix being applied to my own bike and a few other DRZs since i made that post, i'm not sure i buy the idea that loctiting the CS does any good anymore.

the reason i say that is because the loctite doesn't seem to last long. when i first did it to my bike, a few riding buddies who are moto mechanical geniuses said i was an idiot for thinking loctite could stand up to the forces applied by the CS on the splines of the sprocket.

sure enough, a few thousand miles later, my loctite was gone. loctited it again...making extra sure to get everything clean first. same thing after a few thousand miles. two other buddies with DRZs had the same experience.

maybe we just suck at applying loctite or something, but i now tend to agree with the idea that loctite does not withstand the forces between the splines of the CS and sprocket and basically gets pulverized and disappears in a few thousand miles (if not sooner). and i no longer loctite my CS sprocket.

15,000 miles...the last half without any loctite on the CS sprocket. my CS seal started leaking about 7 or 8k miles ago. when i replaced it, the loctite was gone (again) and i did not reapply it when putting the sprocket back on. i have not had any problems since then.

take all this fwiw (just relating my experiences and observations)...and ymmv.
thank you. I'll ask the sales man about some of the stuff, he claim he used to be/work with suzuki manufactoring side of the house and lover of the drz400.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:34 AM   #18434
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Please tell me more about your mirror setup. I need somehing for my KLX.
I got my mirrors for $12 a set from a near by bike parts dealer. You can get a cheap set similar from ebay. I try not to go too fancy on stuff like that cause I know I am gonna break them.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:15 PM   #18435
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Pic is worthless and I have a hard time believing that people are so gullible. All three sensor channels have been totally saturated (RGB = 255,255,255 - ie pure white) over the entire headlight. It is the reason why there is absolutely no trace of the blue of which you speak. On the road they may well be brighter and whiter, but these photos are a gross misrepresentation.
Go ride your bike, get off the computer for a bit.

You dont like it, thats fine.

I never see you post any pics or anything, seems that all you do DRZ wise is the forum.

No need to come back with a dumbass reply, nobody cares anyways, i post up stuff that may help people, i get lots of pm's asking about things ive done to my bike, if it helps anyone out, that is what its all about.

Go ride.
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