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Old 06-03-2013, 09:57 AM   #19036
jk$
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post

Typically height-challenged riders tend towards the smaller dual-sports with less inherent seat height (e.g., DR200, XT225, etc.). Yamaha's TW-200 is specifically designed to be a very low seat height dual-sport. But these smaller bikes all have tradeoffs, especially for highway work.

No great solution here.

- Mark
We found a well priced XT225 and are going to look at it today. Looks like this bike will be okay for short highway rides, great on back roads, and great on trail for my lovely wife. We are pretty excited. Thank you for your help!
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #19037
bonekrusher
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Originally Posted by GypsyWriter View Post
Thanks! I'll do that tonight. I bought some new spark plugs last night but decided to change the oil and didn't get around to the plugs.
You can put tape over those holes too - if it runs find with them covered you are lean.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:44 PM   #19038
revmaaatin
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Location: Two seasons: winter and road repair
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bike is surging

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Originally Posted by GypsyWriter View Post

SNIP
....oy, I am as good at running off at the fingers as I at the outh. TL;DR: for a carb newbie, can someone give me a quick rundown on a quick fix (*fingers crossed*) for the surging, or is it mostly trial and error?
Surging is not always a carb problem--
Take a close look at your chain/sprocket condition;
chains that are near the end of their service life will 'surge' making you think that it is a fuel delivery problem, but is acutally a problem with the chain loading-unloading over tight spots in the chain as it enters and leaves the sprockets.

It can also be an indication that the chain is to tight.

Jack the bike up vertically, so there are no side loads on the chain, and spin the wheel slowly and see how the chain is entering and leaving the sprokets. Make sure the chain-snails are set equally, and the chain is at the proper tension as you do all this.

If you can suspend the rear end and [safely] let then engine drive the wheel, you will quickly see if the chain has binding spots and visually confirm surging caused by the chain.

I will let you define what [safely] means; if you chop off your finger as the engine drives the chain, you did it wrong. cough.
m.
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #19039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revmaaatin View Post
Surging is not always a carb problem--.

It can also be an indication that the chain is to tight.

Jack the bike up vertically, so there are no side loads on the chain, and spin the wheel slowly and see how the chain is entering and leaving the sprokets. Make sure the chain-snails are set equally, and the chain is at the proper tension as you do all this.

If you can suspend the rear end and [safely] let then engine drive the wheel, you will quickly see if the chain has binding spots and visually confirm surging caused by the chain.
Hmm, also something to look at. The chain seems to be in decent shape as does the rear sprocket; haven't looked at the front yet. How much play should the chain have, either laden or unladen?

Thing is though, the bike surges just at idle too, so I'm leaning toward the carbs. I guess we'll see once the JD kit gets here, I may ask the Dude for help on the carbs. I've been reading up on them and they don't seem too difficult but I'm worried about screwing something up.
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:09 PM   #19040
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Cool2 Thanks !

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
I doubt you killed it with gas. flush the oil once or twice with new and fix the petcock, clutches are tough. I'm on original with almost 24000 hard miles.

if it has been abused, the fibers are likely good, but spring bad. id order a kit, insteal in 20 minutes, fresh oil and ride. the clutch cover uses an oring as reusable gasket. very easy job.
Thanks. I ended up fixing the clutch arm after I pulled the clutch pack and evaluated everything... Which looked fine. It was merely a lack of understanding on my part that the clutch lever wire was not setup correctly.

All I have to do now is get oil and flush the engine thoroughly.

Appreciate your input with regards to my oil+fuel mixture debacle. I LOVED how easy it was to access the clutch pack.

Thanks fellow inmates...
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:13 PM   #19041
Greg MacD
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New Gearing is great

I have 2008 SM Wheels on my 04 "S" ....I was running the stock 15 X 44 gears and had no top end speed, so I went with a 15 X 39 gearing and so far the bike feels great. I have plenty of top end and the bike still pulls fine for the street. I still might change the front to a 16 tooth sprocket and see how I like that, but I just dont want to go too low on the gears.

Mac
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:06 AM   #19042
Wasca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg MacD View Post
I have 2008 SM Wheels on my 04 "S" ....I was running the stock 15 X 44 gears and had no top end speed....
Really? not enough top end speed? I'm running 15 x 47 and I can get to 140Km easy, I suppose if you really want to go faster than that then the lower tooth rear will help. Oh and I'm on the DR-Z400E Aussie model.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:04 AM   #19043
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasca View Post
Really? not enough top end speed? I'm running 15 x 47 and I can get to 140Km easy, I suppose if you really want to go faster than that then the lower tooth rear will help. Oh and I'm on the DR-Z400E Aussie model.
15/44 on SM wheels is the same gearing as 15/47 on dirt wheels. So sustained road speed I would think it a little buzzy. Stock SM is 15/41. I run 15/38 and am pondering a 16...
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:58 AM   #19044
fifthcircle
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I keep saying that I don't need to do the 3x3/jet kit mod. I don't.

I ordered it anyway.

Idle hands....

The real reason is, not only did I hear it runs more smoothly, but it will wheelie easier. Planning on getting out to Moab sometime in the next year, and although wheelies are normally just to screw around and have a bit of fun, I wan't to have that little extra oomf to loft the front over rocks/cracks and keep it on top of the sand.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:06 AM   #19045
Greg MacD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasca View Post
Really? not enough top end speed? I'm running 15 x 47 and I can get to 140Km easy, I suppose if you really want to go faster than that then the lower tooth rear will help. Oh and I'm on the DR-Z400E Aussie model.
I was hitting about 88 MPH as per my GPS (about 96 on the horribly in-accurate speedometer). On the interstate the bike (actualy ME) was good for about 30 min at that speed. I don't get on the highway too often, but I need to jump on every once in a wile.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:42 AM   #19046
oldenuf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
I keep saying that I don't need to do the 3x3/jet kit mod. I don't.

I ordered it anyway.

Idle hands....

The real reason is, not only did I hear it runs more smoothly, but it will wheelie easier. Planning on getting out to Moab sometime in the next year, and although wheelies are normally just to screw around and have a bit of fun, I wan't to have that little extra oomf to loft the front over rocks/cracks and keep it on top of the sand.
Not to be a smart a##, but the first thing to do is a bit of research on jetting.

Art
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:49 AM   #19047
fifthcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldenuf View Post
Not to be a smart a##, but the first thing to do is a bit of research on jetting.

Art
LOL....ummm, OK. Maybe you could be a little less vague with your comment. :

Sent from my fat thumbs on a small touch screen.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #19048
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jetting

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Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
LOL....ummm, OK. Maybe you could be a little less vague with your comment. :

Sent from my fat thumbs on a small touch screen.
It's been a while since I rode out in Utah, not sure of the altitude for a lot of the area. You just need to really examine where you are now with your jetting and and what you want to correct or change, and relate it to where you will be riding.

Art
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:32 PM   #19049
fifthcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldenuf View Post
It's been a while since I rode out in Utah, not sure of the altitude for a lot of the area. You just need to really examine where you are now with your jetting and and what you want to correct or change, and relate it to where you will be riding.

Art
I am at 1000'. Moab is from 4k - 6k ft. With the stock carb, jetted for my home alt with the fuel screw add on, I will be fine in Moab. If I was going to ride mountain passes in CO, I would re-jet for a higher altitude ONLY for the trip. I'm not going to jet it for a two or three day trip, at 3,000ft above what its jetted for.

You really don't need to worry much about this, as it will just be down on power a tad at much higher altitudes. Its not going to cause a major problem, since going up will make it run rich. Even more less of a worry with the stock carb. The diaphragm in there is designed to help compensate for altitude changes. Aircraft carbs in the little bug smashers (think: Cessna 172) use the same design.


I am a licensed A&P (aircraft mech.). Thanks for the concern though....
:p
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:05 PM   #19050
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Just thought I would share, on my ride home from work today:



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