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Old 06-14-2013, 02:12 PM   #19171
Abelha
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Joined: Jun 2013
Oddometer: 14
Have just stumbled into some info, here in Brazil, we apparently only have the E model, since the S would be the street model and we never had that one.
I also read that the E model has inferior electrics and it doesn't have a subframe on the tail, is there ANY way to setup a trunk on an E model and is it true about the bad electrics?
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #19172
groop
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Originally Posted by tt100 View Post
Anybody have a Clymers or Haynes they want to part with? ...and while I'm at it, any opinions on one over the other? Thanks
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:40 PM   #19173
tallpaul63
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Information please

I spent some time cleaning the carb on my DRZ, including opening the float bowl drain, which may have been shut for a long time. Now reassembled, the carb leaks fuel from said drain. Is there a gasket or washer there that may have failed? Any thoughts? Replace it after ordering one from Suzuki, or are there any other options to get me running quicker?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:42 PM   #19174
focallength
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallpaul63 View Post
I spent some time cleaning the carb on my DRZ, including opening the float bowl drain, which may have been shut for a long time. Now reassembled, the carb leaks fuel from said drain. Is there a gasket or washer there that may have failed? Any thoughts? Replace it after ordering one from Suzuki, or are there any other options to get me running quicker?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:53 PM   #19175
ohgood
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Location: alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallpaul63 View Post
I spent some time cleaning the carb on my DRZ, including opening the float bowl drain, which may have been shut for a long time. Now reassembled, the carb leaks fuel from said drain. Is there a gasket or washer there that may have failed? Any thoughts? Replace it after ordering one from Suzuki, or are there any other options to get me running quicker?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

clean the seat and the tapered end of the screw well. scotchbright should do it. then it will seat again.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:16 PM   #19176
tdrrally
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Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Have just stumbled into some info, here in Brazil, we apparently only have the E model, since the S would be the street model and we never had that one.
I also read that the E model has inferior electrics and it doesn't have a subframe on the tail, is there ANY way to setup a trunk on an E model and is it true about the bad electrics?
its my understanding that all the drz400 e and s electric start bikes have the same stator.
i could be wrong
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:46 PM   #19177
jackpiner57
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Northeastern Vermont
Oddometer: 1,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Have just stumbled into some info, here in Brazil, we apparently only have the E model, since the S would be the street model and we never had that one.
I also read that the E model has inferior electrics and it doesn't have a subframe on the tail, is there ANY way to setup a trunk on an E model and is it true about the bad electrics?
Here is one. http://www.moto-racks.com/Products4.html
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:32 PM   #19178
DualSportDad
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
Oddometer: 2,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
I had my OEM kill switch converted into a manual fan control switch and use my key to shut the bike off now. My engine is a high compression, cammed , 434 and it runs cool with stock rads. I also used a T Stat eliminator from the E model. No need for larger rads on the Dizzer.
Any idea what temp your bike runs at normally? I changed the coolant again in my bike and added water wetter and got it down to the 140's. That seems fine by me. I'll take the bike out on the highway tomorrow and make sure it doesn't climb too high. If it does I'll take it to the Dyno asap and have the a/f ratio checked.

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Old 06-14-2013, 08:24 PM   #19179
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
Any idea what temp your bike runs at normally? I changed the coolant again in my bike and added water wetter and got it down to the 140's. That seems fine by me. I'll take the bike out on the highway tomorrow and make sure it doesn't climb too high. If it does I'll take it to the Dyno asap and have the a/f ratio checked.

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Normally runs in the 130-170f range depending on traffic. (Remember I dont have a thermostat either)

I have my Vapor set to warn me at 180f to turn my fan on, I have seen temps in the 185-205f if I forget to turn the fan on in extreme heat 100f temps and riding tight trails.

If I leave the fan on the entire time I am riding in hot temps 100f and in tight trails it seems to hover around 165-170.

When its cool out and I am riding on the highways or roads without the fan on it runs in the 120-135 range.

I never like to see any coolant temps on my machines off road or on road over 205f, although some of my GSXRs saw 230f prior to manually controlling the fan. I am happy with anything 180f or below in most situations.
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:27 AM   #19180
ohgood
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Flush the cooling system once a year and forget it. The auto fan setup works great.

(Says the guy on stator number five)
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:27 AM   #19181
rebar
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Location: Iowa City
Oddometer: 242
Pc310

I haven't found any info on the odyssey PC310 battery in the DRZ. I'm surprised I'm the first to try it. I usually follow..
It fits nicely after I hacked up my box for a superstart kit. I honestly think it would have fit without hacking the back out, but a bracket would be needed and it does push the cover out a touch just like Eddies kit did.

If this battery performs like the two other odyssey batteries I have (6 years plus) I will be satisfied.

Here it is.. And it cranks long and hard.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:33 AM   #19182
MrBob
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I'm reassembling the head on my KLX and have looked at what I think is a compression release mechanism on the exhaust cam.
It doesn't appear to be connected to anything and looks to have centrifugal weights, which move freely.
The shop manual shows a bracket attached to the left side of the head, which may be a part of this mechanism, but my engine doesn't have that.
Who can explain how this mechanism works?
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:52 AM   #19183
Bad Daddy
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I think if you had a kick start, you would require all of the bracketed, for a manual compression release.

I seem to remember that the kickstart kits come with the necessary gadgets to add manual compression release, but the S and SM heads don't support it. Only the E heads do.

If you look up the DRZ kick start install on this site, you'll see what I mean.

My Clymer manual doesn't show it, either!

BD


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
I'm reassembling the head on my KLX and have looked at what I think is a compression release mechanism on the exhaust cam.
It doesn't appear to be connected to anything and looks to have centrifugal weights, which move freely.
The shop manual shows a bracket attached to the left side of the head, which may be a part of this mechanism, but my engine doesn't have that.
Who can explain how this mechanism works?
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:14 AM   #19184
focallength
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Daddy View Post
I think if you had a kick start, you would require all of the bracketed, for a manual compression release.

I seem to remember that the kickstart kits come with the necessary gadgets to add manual compression release, but the S and SM heads don't support it. Only the E heads do.

If you look up the DRZ kick start install on this site, you'll see what I mean.

My Clymer manual doesn't show it, either!

BD

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Old 06-15-2013, 07:48 PM   #19185
Muddler
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Location: Dardanup, Western Australia
Oddometer: 705
Footpegs

I would like to get more distance between my feet and the bars. I have already fitted risers, but still not comfortable standing. I have heard that YZ pegs are not offset up like the DRZ pegs. Can anyone confirm if they will fit?
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