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Old 06-18-2013, 02:34 PM   #19216
THRASHED
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Originally Posted by lam007 View Post
Ok everyone I am getting close to needing a new rear tire for my DRZ 250. Right know I have just a non DOT tires on it but I am riding the road and need to get a set of DOT. I use it for alot of commuting and trail ride on the weekends so I have been looking at some Kenda's 270, Shinko 244. These tires are still aggresive but wont wear out as quick on the pavement as the knobbies. What do yall think. I am open to suggestions.
I'm on my first set of 270's and love them. 550 miles at Death Valley, about 200 miles on the freeway (don't really like the way they try to grab the grooves here in SoCal but not too bad) and another 150 or so miles in the mountains. They still look great and hook up very well for my conditions...mostly hardpack with some sand and rocks thrown in for good measure.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:34 PM   #19217
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Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
I'm looking into putting new valves on my DRZ. I think I'll go with Wiseco valves. Looking at the microfiche, it appears as though the OEM valve seat is removable. What is the protocol here? Do I need to buy NEW seats or can I lap the Wiseco valves into the old seats?
Anybody wanna take a stab at this?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #19218
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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
what gearing are you running on that E ?
I went with 14/45.... in retrospect, I would probably should have left it stock at 14/47.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:38 PM   #19219
tdrrally
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i'm looking at 14/46 for ds gearing
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:41 PM   #19220
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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
i'm looking at 14/46 for ds gearing
I heard somewhere that for best sprocket and chain life, one sprocket should be even and the other odd number of teeth.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:47 PM   #19221
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Anybody wanna take a stab at this?
When it come to engine parts and so forth I like to stick to oem parts.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #19222
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Originally Posted by MojaveSidecar View Post
I went with 14/45.... in retrospect, I would probably should have left it stock at 14/47.
Does anyone know what the max rev's are on a stock 2012 drz400s.?
And how about the RPM at say 65 mph?
When I'm cruising down the road at 65,it just seems to me that the engine is just screaming.
Your thoughts would be most welcome.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:14 PM   #19223
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The S rev limiter is 500 rpms below the E's limiter so I wouldn't worry about over revving or damaging anything. I don't recall what my rpms are at 65, but at 55 with 14:44 gearing, I'm at 5500 IIRC.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:16 PM   #19224
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Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
When it come to engine parts and so forth I like to stick to oem parts.
So you can't answer the question? I like OEM too, but can the seats be relapped or should I buy new ones? Or do you not know?
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:19 PM   #19225
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if they need to be replaced
let a machine shop do it, they takes some heat to remove
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #19226
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Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
So you can't answer the question? I like OEM too, but can the seats be relapped or should I buy new ones? Or do you not know?
My understanding is that DRZ OEM valves are 2 piece valves and are a known weak link... my E threw a valve because of the head separating from the stem. That's why I wound up going with Ron Hamp 1 piece Stainless Steel valves and springs.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:34 PM   #19227
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So you can't answer the question? I like OEM too, but can the seats be relapped or should I buy new ones? Or do you not know?
I haven't done this for long time, but from what I heard my mechanic said once that you must turn/machine either the valves or the seats (probably both) to get them to shut perfectly whether u go with oem or not.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:05 PM   #19228
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Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
Anybody wanna take a stab at this?
I have installed many new valves on old seats, Never had an issue with not lapping them in. If the seats are really bad then I would have seats recut.

Once I install new valves on old seats I use WD40 and check them for leakage, if its excessive then I would try lapping them in before considering machining the seats.

The downside to installing new valves on slightly worn seats is the valves may go thru a break in cycle and tighten up so I would check valves after first 1k miles. After that if they didnt tighten up within the 1st 1k miles I would go to regular intervals.

It all depends on what you are comfortable with really.

If you change the valves every so often during routine maintainance the head last for much longer before requiring machine work. Anytime I have an engine apart for rings, piston, it gets new valves.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:28 PM   #19229
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Hello all! New DRZ Owner here. Looked around for a long time for a dual sport and almost settled on the DR 650, but decided to go for a DRZ. Anyway, I finally found a deal for an '05 on Craigslist with 13K miles. I absolutely love this bike. It's Suzuki Yellow with a low profile tag/taillight mount. I just wanted to make a post to thank everybody on the Forum for allowing me to search and learn anything I needed to. This Forum helped me make a decision more than any other resource.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:59 PM   #19230
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Originally Posted by Dkscism View Post
Hello all! New DRZ Owner here. Looked around for a long time for a dual sport and almost settled on the DR 650, but decided to go for a DRZ. Anyway, I finally found a deal for an '05 on Craigslist with 13K miles. I absolutely love this bike. It's Suzuki Yellow with a low profile tag/taillight mount. I just wanted to make a post to thank everybody on the Forum for allowing me to search and learn anything I needed to. This Forum helped me make a decision more than any other resource.
Welcome, you have now been assimilated!



Now, it's time to farkle and post pics.....................
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