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Old 07-04-2013, 05:07 AM   #19426
lam007
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Joined: Apr 2013
Oddometer: 25
headlight

Does anybody have an extra drz 400 headlights laying around in white. It can be the full thing with the light or just the plastic shroud.
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:23 AM   #19427
tdrrally
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Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv
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dr headlights works well too

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Old 07-04-2013, 05:53 AM   #19428
Falcon86
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
Here is a third way to skin that cat.

http://drriders.com/topic5258.html

video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbtnlF4XGso

I use this on my DRZ400 and it gets the wind off of your chest and I like the velcro mounting in case I need to jump the bars in a hurry. (deer)
This is really really awesome. Must try.


Thank you!
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #19429
150ron
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Location: Valencia, ca
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Pics dont do it justice, tis like a freaking wall, lol, rated red diamond (expert only), DRZ DOING WORK!!



Really enjoying this bike to the fullest.

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:31 PM   #19430
Falcon86
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Second wide open or second with some serious clutch workage?
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:42 PM   #19431
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Second wide open or second with some serious clutch workage?
Running stock 15/44 gearing, 1st gear WFO all the way to the top go big or go home with that climb, if i even let go of the gas a bit, ill drop it, (stall) no clutch at all, 14/44 would be so much better imo, but i enjoy my 95+mph bursts on the way home too much to change gearing

With the HotCams/MRD SSW, first gear can reach 25mph, the HotCams made it pull much harder.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #19432
The Toad
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JD Jetting kit question (DRZ400S)

I am installing (actually its done..sorta) the JD Jetting kit on my DRZ400S and have a quick question for those that know.

When installing the oem washers on the needle valve, there is a noticable space between the plastic spacer and the clip. Unless I use alot of force it will not "seat" on the clip as it does on the stock needle.

See pic.

Is this space normal (how it should be left)? Or should it be sitting snug under the clip (as oem)?

thanks in advance






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Old 07-05-2013, 11:56 AM   #19433
carbon_unit
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The plastic washer needs to be up against the clip.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:05 PM   #19434
jhock
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Just joined the ranks of DRZ owners, a 2004 DRZ400s with 6800 miles.

Pick it up next Saturday, needs few bits, hand guards, some higher bars (I am 6' 3") and bigger tank at some point.

Cant wait to get on and use it!
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:59 PM   #19435
The Toad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon_unit View Post
The plastic washer needs to be up against the clip.
Thanks.

In hindsight kind of a dumb question.

Oddly enough the bike runs exactly the same either way
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:13 PM   #19436
Falcon86
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhock View Post
Just joined the ranks of DRZ owners, a 2004 DRZ400s with 6800 miles.

Pick it up next Saturday, needs few bits, hand guards, some higher bars (I am 6' 3") and bigger tank at some point.

Cant wait to get on and use it!
Congrats!

I highly recommend Pro Taper ATV Hi Bars.
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:17 PM   #19437
ChromeSux
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Location: Lenoir City TN.
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I just joined the ranks of DRZ400 ownership, bought a 2001, looks nice 5,000 miles, $1,800.00, i know it has the suspension that is not as tunable in the front as a 2002+, i am addressing the loose counter sprocket, yes it was loose, but the counter shaft is in good shape and i will do the locktite fix, but i have a few other questions.

1. The rear shock has 2 adjustments, my friend who has a DRZ was showing me how to turn the larger nut in and out, and while doing this he backed it way out and a little fluid leaked out, not good right? the shock still seems to work fine after screwing it back in.

2. What are the adjusting nuts/ screw features, what does the nut do and what does the little screw do.

3. Will gold valves help the front or should i seek out a 2002 and up front end, i dont want to throw good money after bad so to speak by purchasing gold valves if they dont help a DRZ that much, i did them on my DR650 and liked it.

I am only going to address the suspension now, the bike has all the power a 51 year old man need for goofing around in the woods.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #19438
tdrrally
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unless your a great rider or racing don't worry about the suspension
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:06 AM   #19439
-TRED-
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help

I just had my stator and battery replaced and I am still not able to keep a charge. I have very limited mechanical skills so if anyone has any suggestions for what can cause a new stator from charging the batter I would appreciate it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:10 AM   #19440
FamilyRider
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -TRED- View Post
I just had my stator and battery replaced and I am still not able to keep a charge. I have very limited mechanical skills so if anyone has any suggestions for what can cause a new stator from charging the batter I would appreciate it.
Do the "free power mod". You can find info on ThumperTalk. It is common for the connectors between the stator and battery to have too much resistance, which prevents the battery from charging fully. I was constantly replacing batteries and components until I learned that simple mod. I haven't had any trouble since.
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