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Old 08-11-2013, 09:12 AM   #19966
bobbed06
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I agree, having ridden both bikes I woudlnt mind owning either one. I wanted a electric start, and the potential for 10-12 more hp when built gave the nod to the DRZ. I also needed a bike that could be street legal anywhere I chose to live, so the XR was outta the question.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:13 AM   #19967
OR Trail
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I had a 140 MT21 with the big battery. Not sure if it was H-T kit but same size battery. It fit fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by viverrid View Post
Hey, I apparently don't have good ADV search-fu.

I am on my 2nd DRZ-S. Had a 2002, sold it long ago and went through some more exotic alternatives, but now back with a 2012!

So as isn't uncommon, I have had battery issues. What about the Happy Trails kit that uses a bigger battery? I would have bought it except they say they do not guarantee fitment with larger than the stock 120 tire, and I am running a 130 (MT-21).

Has this been a good conversion, and will a 130 knobbier than stock tire clear the back of the box?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:08 AM   #19968
ohgood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toadl View Post
Here is the spring from my 2005 DRZ400S fork and the new eibach spring, so the length is 20.1 inches (510mm).

mmm, the cbr wheels guy.... :)
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:10 AM   #19969
150ron
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I learned the hard way yesterday that you CANNOT get the stock grip off the stock throttle tube...

So if anybody is picking up new grips to change out the stock waffle makers, pick up a new throttle tube too.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #19970
Falcon86
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
I learned the hard way yesterday that you CANNOT get the stock grip off the stock throttle tube...

So if anybody is picking up new grips to change out the stock waffle makers, pick up a new throttle tube too.
Mmmmmmmhmmmmm.

Mine came off in millimeter long chunks and after 3 million chunks I decided I was done trying lol.
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #19971
hasenwerk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Three things... An engineer would not have placed the bolts through the tube like that or specified that weld... you're not likely to take the tabs of the sub frame, but it might be a little rough further up the frame and in that regard what you have done with the 20mm tube is exactly the same as what I have suggested.

Good luck.
I tried a $20 experiment today and pushed on the fuel can downwards as if there was 80kg on it (i.e. me pushing down on it with all my wight) and the black plastic piece the holds the tank bent quite a bit and started to discolor and then after being really physical with it - as in doing that same motion again and again, the black plastic holder eventually broke. The alu bracket I whipped up and the frame stood rock solid. So I think it is going to take some solid abuse that will do damage elsewhere on the bike to break this. I am not too concerned about failure on this with "normal" adventure riding.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:00 PM   #19972
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
I learned the hard way yesterday that you CANNOT get the stock grip off the stock throttle tube...

So if anybody is picking up new grips to change out the stock waffle makers, pick up a new throttle tube too.
Did u use air compressor (hi-pressure) to blow air under the grips? They usually come right off. I changed them twice so far no problem. WD40 may help.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:27 PM   #19973
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Did u use air compressor (hi-pressure) to blow air under the grips? They usually come right off. I changed them twice so far no problem. WD40 may help.
Not this, this thing is like fused to the throttle tube, even with a brand new stanley razor it barely comes off...

Just ended up getting a new motion pro throttle tube for $9 bucks, got the pillow tops installed, they feel great.
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:47 PM   #19974
kioti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
They usually come right off. I changed them twice so far no problem.
Can't be done with the stock '05 and up S/SM 400 throttle tube with oem grip.
Grips molded to the tube.

kioti screwed with this post 08-11-2013 at 05:55 PM
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:41 AM   #19975
Brick Top
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Over tightening the primary nut?

Good day Drz fans,

I have managed to over tighten the primary nut, the torque should have been 137 nm (101.5 ft-lbs) but it was close to 200 nm (147.ft-lbs). I have realized the torque wrench was not working and I loosen the nut, cleaned the threads and applied the loctite 638.

By over tightening the did I do some damage, I have not ran the engine?

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Old 08-12-2013, 03:02 AM   #19976
Chef Gareth
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Location: Toowoomba QLD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
Since your XR has some power mods, and plenty of get up and go, I'm not sure how much improvement you would find the DRZ to be as an upgrade. The XR weighs less. A DRZ can be built up to be more powerful, and I have an "S" instead of an "E" and your bike has nice mods - probably faster than a stock DRZ400S. I suspect you will hear a lot of the positives of the DRZ in this thread; I like that the XR400 is lighter and has a more open cockpit. I find that leads to a better handling bike for a tall guy, and less fatigue. I wouldn't say that one is better than the other, but instead of an upgrade I would consider one vs the other to be a different set of trade offs.
Thanks for the feed back so far guys, I am mainly looking to upgrade to a bike that can handle more adv style of riding while still able to hit the trails with my mates. The xr is great on the trail but needs some money spent if I want to take it on longer adv rides. I have dropped lots of money into old bikes in the past and regrated it so am cautious to spend any more then I already have to set up a 11 yr old bike. The button start on the drz is another factor, when I come off or stall the xr its a bitch to start and I waste a lot of energy getting it going again and then have to play catch up.

My main concerns is that it wont have as much power as my "set up xr" (I can power wheelie in every gear including 5th) and wont excite me, but love the fact they are bullet proof and I suppose that's more important in a adv bike.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:53 AM   #19977
signit98
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I came from bigger thumpers to the DR-Z..

The magic button was one of the BIGGEST selling points... next to reliability, parts availability and ease of use...

Yes, there are better, lighter, faster and more powerful bikes out there... but a lot of that also happens between your ears.

I have my "Z" nicely (for me) sorted out and can do all sorts of riding with her... I ride with better riders on better bikes, but they rarely have to wait for me longer than a minute and on the surface roads, I usually have to wait for them.

I am on my 2nd "Z", the first one was a 2000, this one is a 2006... better motor and everything is just newer... just about to scratch 2000 miles. Looking forward to 10 fold that... and years of fun to come.

I have no intention to look in another direction... with the DR-Z (and the modest mods I made) I have found a bike that makes me happy.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:17 AM   #19978
monkeyspanker
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Carb clean/rebuild - guidance needed

Good morning, Gents -

I am looking for some guidance on a carb clean/rebuild.

2002 DRZ 400S - 7,300mi. 3x3 mod and JD Jet kit.

Bike sat for over a month without stabilizer. I replaced the spark plug, added Liquid Performance stabilizer and 2 gal of fresh gas. It will start cold for a few minutes, but won't idle. After a few minutes after starting with constant throttle, it dies and won't restart. I removed float bowl and cleaned jets with carb cleaner. This didn't change anything.

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.

Question: Is this overkill or am I heading down the right path?

I would really like to take care of this on my own, as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.

Thanks


Also posted in Thumper Talk
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #19979
signit98
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Take out the jets, inspect and clean them... flush out the channels/pathways in the carb and make sure your diaphragm is OK...

If she runs better with the choke pulled, it's usually the pilot jet... also, make sure you actually has the correct jet-size (just for shits and giggles) i.e. (aproxx.) 25 pilot and around 155 main...

Sometimes crap just gets stuck in there and if the bike stands long enough and has a chance to dry out, it can REALLY get stuck... so that you actually have to manually remove whatever crap is in the jets.

If that doesn't work, you can still throw the bike away... just let me know where and when.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:59 AM   #19980
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.





The air filter must be replaced asap, it's between $15 to $25 on ebay.
The whole rebuild kid is $42...(and free shipping ).




Moose Carb Carburetor Repair Kit Suzuki DRZ400S 2000 - 2009 Motocross Enduro





Quote:
as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.
$500 What are these guys smoking??.
For $500 i'll fix ur carb and be your DRZ's Chauffeur for 1 entire week .
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