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Old 08-13-2013, 06:57 AM   #19996
tdrrally
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Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneJ View Post
Taking the DRZ to WV tomorrow, won't be back until Monday.

I hope the second try works, PM me if you decide to bring it down.
what part of the wv will you be in ?
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:12 AM   #19997
WayneJ
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A bunch of us will be camping at Laurel Fork in the Monongahela.

Come join us. It'll be the SMIB/Cat Herder crew, and a couple of FFs from DE and PA.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:42 AM   #19998
Dirty Tread
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Laugh Good point !

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Just a friendly suggestion, I forgot to mention to u to remove the gas tank and clean it thoroughly (if all fail with cleaning ur carb). We had similar discussion on this issues in previous posts. The inmate cleaned the carb and still have hesitation and what not till he removed his tank and clean the hell out of it.

Very good point (moreover suggestion) !

I threw a bunch of my buddies leftover bee-bees into the gas tank and shook the life (if any?) out of the tank... then flushed it. I still recommend though, to install an in-line fuel filter... easy to install and a huge relief to my happy carb
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:28 AM   #19999
FamilyRider
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
great information. ok, so what type of slime? after my last ride, where a spoke broke and popped my tube. long story short, i got fixed up and back home.
I carry two 2 oz bottles of Stan's No Tube sealant. I choose it because it came in small bottles that easily fit in my front fender bag. But I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment on how well it will work. I also wonder about shelf life.

Slime makes a nice sized bottle for tubes, but their tubeless variety only comes in very large containers.

There are other brands as well. Some people even mix up their own.

I just did a quick search and found Quadboss Tire Sealant that is advertised for dirt bikes and ATVs. Might be worth a try.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:58 PM   #20000
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For jet cleaning read up on solutions reloaders use. You can learn what some of these homebrew cleaners do to brass. Lemi shine seems to be popular for the ultrasonic users.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:40 PM   #20001
ohgood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brick Top View Post
Good day Drz fans,

I have managed to over tighten the primary nut, the torque should have been 137 nm (101.5 ft-lbs) but it was close to 200 nm (147.ft-lbs). I have realized the torque wrench was not working and I loosen the nut, cleaned the threads and applied the loctite 638.

By over tightening the did I do some damage, I have not ran the engine?

B. Top
you may have stretched the thread (some damage, yes) some, but unless you saw shavings pushing out, it should be fine until the next time you need to remove the nut. then, I would replace it with a new one, and loctite/torque as normal.

if you're concerned, just order a new nut, warm up the loctite with a torche, and replace it. no big deal.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:12 PM   #20002
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You may want to replace the fuel line too while you are at it. If an offending particle came from there, it would be likely to continue to happen. At a minimum it's cheap and easy preventative maintenance. I didn't see this mentioned, but apologies in advance if this is redundant from another post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post
Good morning, Gents -

I am looking for some guidance on a carb clean/rebuild.

2002 DRZ 400S - 7,300mi. 3x3 mod and JD Jet kit.

Bike sat for over a month without stabilizer. I replaced the spark plug, added Liquid Performance stabilizer and 2 gal of fresh gas. It will start cold for a few minutes, but won't idle. After a few minutes after starting with constant throttle, it dies and won't restart. I removed float bowl and cleaned jets with carb cleaner. This didn't change anything.

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.

Question: Is this overkill or am I heading down the right path?

I would really like to take care of this on my own, as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.

Thanks


Also posted in Thumper Talk
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:35 PM   #20003
carlclaflin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
I carry two 2 oz bottles of Stan's No Tube sealant. I choose it because it came in small bottles that easily fit in my front fender bag. But I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment on how well it will work. I also wonder about shelf life.

Slime makes a nice sized bottle for tubes, but their tubeless variety only comes in very large containers.

There are other brands as well. Some people even mix up their own.

I just did a quick search and found Quadboss Tire Sealant that is advertised for dirt bikes and ATVs. Might be worth a try.
cool, thanks for the info. i have a list of stuff i want to do this winter. new chain and sprockets, new valve seals, new timing chain, Tubliss -front and rear, order some new spokes, and the list goes no.$$$$$
ride safe and have fun.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:06 AM   #20004
kingrj
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Location: Hattiesburg, Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post
Good morning, Gents -

I am looking for some guidance on a carb clean/rebuild.

2002 DRZ 400S - 7,300mi. 3x3 mod and JD Jet kit.

Bike sat for over a month without stabilizer. I replaced the spark plug, added Liquid Performance stabilizer and 2 gal of fresh gas. It will start cold for a few minutes, but won't idle. After a few minutes after starting with constant throttle, it dies and won't restart. I removed float bowl and cleaned jets with carb cleaner. This didn't change anything.

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.

Question: Is this overkill or am I heading down the right path?

I would really like to take care of this on my own, as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.

Thanks


Also posted in Thumper Talk


It is your low speed jet. Carb cleaner will not take out the yellow-green gunk that ethanol in the gas causes..You will have to either replace the jet or take it out and run a piece of wire through it. Soak it in vinegar also. I had to do this several times after leaving my DRZ sitting up. I finally pinched off the vacuum hose to the petcock and ran the bowl dry before I set the bike up for any length of time now..My bowl drain screw broke or I would just drain the bowl..
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:39 AM   #20005
carlclaflin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Lots of experience with Tubliss around here... My bikes, friends bikes, club bikes, mustering bikes...

Tyre and bladder pressures need to be checked every day, but that is no cause for tyre sealants. If you have ever had to clean and repair a tyre filled with goo then you'd probably want to smack it around the owners head. If you must then use a water based sealant that is easy to clean up... Slime (the brand) is not recommended.

My repair kit is stringy plugs, tubeless tyre patches for larger holes (that no brand of goo will fix) and spare tubes.

Mounting lessons are on the Neutech site... use them and the Tubliss system is trouble free. Most problems can be attributed to IO (idiot operator) error.
The only deviation from the instructions that I take is the use of tyre mounting grease due to tyre pressure changes when the tyre gets hot with cup of water floating around in there.

I am currently about 12,000km into a 14,000km trip on Tubliss that have done about 20,000km. I have put a couple of plugs into the tyres on this trip, otherwise there is little to comment on... No bashed rims and no pinch flats despite low pressures at times. I rate them as a good thing.
good to know. thank you for your input. i really hope your trip goes good and lots of fun miles ahead you. read safe.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:05 PM   #20006
hasenwerk
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At altitude issues with my 09 400S

On vacation with the wife and my bike is running like s#!t. When the altitude is greater than say 800m above sea level it will run ok at highway speeds, but try to accelerate out go up a step hill the engine with start cutting out. At 1500m I could barely achieve 90km/h. Here in Kelowna in town no problem at all, might just stumble of you are gunning it to run a yellow light, but maybe for an instant, nothing like at altitude. Petcock strainer looks good, 1/3 of a can of seafoam made no difference... What should I do too make things better. The wife's HD 883 is running flawlessly...
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:13 PM   #20007
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Cry

So, I posted a while back about some noise issues on my drz400s. Some noticed that the coolant overflow tank was full on my bike (the coolant was not going back into the radiators).

I recently decided to replace the coolant so I flushed the system out and replaced the coolant following a manual and and checking it with the procedure found on thumpertalk.

After riding the bike yesterday (about an hour or so after changing coolant) my bike was leaking the coolant somewhere (it had done this before but had stopped). I noticed this in the morning when I went into the garage again and found a small puddle of coolant. So I decided I would go out for a short ride to see if it would leak again so I could find the location, and so far I don't see any leak.

Another issue is that again the coolant overflow tank increased in level again yesterday and hasn't come down, it also increased after the short ride I had today, and its level hasn't changed.

Does anyone have any ideas? on what could be the problem?

I was researching and some people said that it could be the thermostat or a blown head gasket that is causing the coolant to not flow back into the radiators.
But I had a leak so it may be something else that is causing that issue? Should I do a compression test or something to try to figure out were the leak is coming from or the issue???

I also recently replaced the radiator cap from the old stock one which was not sealing properly, this one is 1.6 instead of 1.1. And the noise my bike was experiencing (like howling/hissing noise) was gone after changing the coolant, when I drained it the coolant level was pretty dam low. And also, when I drained the old coolant that which was located in the coolant overflow tank (or reservoir always get confused with name, the clear one hah) stayed inside of it and I had to drain it separately by taking house out.

Anyone have any ideas??? Would appreciate any input this is really bothering me.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:26 PM   #20008
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltron View Post
So, I posted a while back about some noise issues on my drz400s. Some noticed that the coolant overflow tank was full on my bike (the coolant was not going back into the radiators).

I recently decided to replace the coolant so I flushed the system out and replaced the coolant following a manual and and checking it with the procedure found on thumpertalk.

After riding the bike yesterday (about an hour or so after changing coolant) my bike was leaking the coolant somewhere (it had done this before but had stopped). I noticed this in the morning when I went into the garage again and found a small puddle of coolant. So I decided I would go out for a short ride to see if it would leak again so I could find the location, and so far I don't see any leak.

Another issue is that again the coolant overflow tank increased in level again yesterday and hasn't come down, it also increased after the short ride I had today, and its level hasn't changed.

Does anyone have any ideas? on what could be the problem?

I was researching and some people said that it could be the thermostat or a blown head gasket that is causing the coolant to not flow back into the radiators.
But I had a leak so it may be something else that is causing that issue? Should I do a compression test or something to try to figure out were the leak is coming from or the issue???

I also recently replaced the radiator cap from the old stock one which was not sealing properly, this one is 1.6 instead of 1.1. And the noise my bike was experiencing (like howling/hissing noise) was gone after changing the coolant, when I drained it the coolant level was pretty dam low. And also, when I drained the old coolant that which was located in the coolant overflow tank (or reservoir always get confused with name, the clear one hah) stayed inside of it and I had to drain it separately by taking house out.

Anyone have any ideas??? Would appreciate any input this is really bothering me.
Empty the tank to a suitable level. You probably fixed the issue by replacing the cap and the system released the excess coolant into the tank. It should stabilize. I also highly recommend a manual fan switch to keep the bike running cooler. Its a nice way to keep engine cool and it keeps the bike from overfilling the overflow tank.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:26 PM   #20009
Deltron
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When I think about it, my fan has never gone on even when the red light overheat came on... probably another problem to look into. Ill look in manual see if there is anything about the fan. Anyone know were to buy a manual fan switch I found the sisernos speed works one but on their website it seems to be blank under its section.

Coolant still hasn't went back into radiators at all, I check radiators its not close to topping out about 1 or 1.5 inc under cap.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:00 PM   #20010
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltron View Post
When I think about it, my fan has never gone on even when the red light overheat came on... probably another problem to look into. Ill look in manual see if there is anything about the fan. Anyone know were to buy a manual fan switch I found the sisernos speed works one but on their website it seems to be blank under its section.

Coolant still hasn't went back into radiators at all, I check radiators its not close to topping out about 1 or 1.5 inc under cap.
Just call them up and place a phone order. epic motorsports. If your fan has never kicked on the fan switch is bad, I would bypass it with the manual fan switch and put a new fan switch in the radiator. Which is why your coolant tank is getting overfilled.
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