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Old 08-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #19996
FamilyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signit98 View Post
Yeah, I always thought that a can of fix-a-flat would be sufficient... until I ripped the valve out of a tube, MILES away from anywhere...

Now I carry at least one tube... the 21" works for the rear in a pinch, but ideally, two tubes is what I carry.
Another advantage of TubLiss - much less chance of tearing a valve stem off. I guess in theory it is possible to tear off the TubLiss stem, but with 110 psi in it, the chances are small.

But with TubLiss you need to carry a form of slime that is tubeless compatible. Some forms of slime work with tubes while others work with tires. It is important to carry the correct kind.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:29 PM   #19997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
Another advantage of TubLiss - much less chance of tearing a valve stem off. I guess in theory it is possible to tear off the TubLiss stem, but with 110 psi in it, the chances are small.

But with TubLiss you need to carry a form of slime that is tubeless compatible. Some forms of slime work with tubes while others work with tires. It is important to carry the correct kind.
great information. ok, so what type of slime? after my last ride, where a spoke broke and popped my tube. long story short, i got fixed up and back home.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:40 PM   #19998
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Originally Posted by toadl View Post
Well, if you had to clean the thread, maybe some damage was done to the threads, the nut can easy be replaced. If you can torque it to 100 ft-lbs. I think everything will be okay. I can't image you hurt the motor. Sorry, your not that strong.


Toadl thanks for the reply. I had to clean the thread by removing the old loctite. I could not see any damaged to the threads. I did torque it down correctly and with the loctite 638. Will run DRZ tonight.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:32 AM   #19999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Tread View Post
Hi. I did your routine first and too still experienced issues...
Just a friendly suggestion, I forgot to mention to u to remove the gas tank and clean it thoroughly (if all fail with cleaning ur carb). We had similar discussion on this issues in previous posts. The inmate cleaned the carb and still have hesitation and what not till he removed his tank and clean the hell out of it.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:54 AM   #20000
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Thanks for all the great feedback - I will give it a more thorough clean.

Wayne - if this doesn't work, I will definitely give you a shout. I assume you still enjoy that fancy Asian brew
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:15 AM   #20001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post

Wayne - if this doesn't work, I will definitely give you a shout.
Taking the DRZ to WV tomorrow, won't be back until Monday.

I hope the second try works, PM me if you decide to bring it down.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:57 AM   #20002
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Originally Posted by WayneJ View Post
Taking the DRZ to WV tomorrow, won't be back until Monday.

I hope the second try works, PM me if you decide to bring it down.
what part of the wv will you be in ?
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:12 AM   #20003
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A bunch of us will be camping at Laurel Fork in the Monongahela.

Come join us. It'll be the SMIB/Cat Herder crew, and a couple of FFs from DE and PA.
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WayneJ screwed with this post 08-13-2013 at 08:21 AM
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:42 AM   #20004
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Laugh Good point !

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Just a friendly suggestion, I forgot to mention to u to remove the gas tank and clean it thoroughly (if all fail with cleaning ur carb). We had similar discussion on this issues in previous posts. The inmate cleaned the carb and still have hesitation and what not till he removed his tank and clean the hell out of it.

Very good point (moreover suggestion) !

I threw a bunch of my buddies leftover bee-bees into the gas tank and shook the life (if any?) out of the tank... then flushed it. I still recommend though, to install an in-line fuel filter... easy to install and a huge relief to my happy carb
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:28 AM   #20005
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Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
great information. ok, so what type of slime? after my last ride, where a spoke broke and popped my tube. long story short, i got fixed up and back home.
I carry two 2 oz bottles of Stan's No Tube sealant. I choose it because it came in small bottles that easily fit in my front fender bag. But I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment on how well it will work. I also wonder about shelf life.

Slime makes a nice sized bottle for tubes, but their tubeless variety only comes in very large containers.

There are other brands as well. Some people even mix up their own.

I just did a quick search and found Quadboss Tire Sealant that is advertised for dirt bikes and ATVs. Might be worth a try.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:58 PM   #20006
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For jet cleaning read up on solutions reloaders use. You can learn what some of these homebrew cleaners do to brass. Lemi shine seems to be popular for the ultrasonic users.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:40 PM   #20007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brick Top View Post
Good day Drz fans,

I have managed to over tighten the primary nut, the torque should have been 137 nm (101.5 ft-lbs) but it was close to 200 nm (147.ft-lbs). I have realized the torque wrench was not working and I loosen the nut, cleaned the threads and applied the loctite 638.

By over tightening the did I do some damage, I have not ran the engine?

B. Top
you may have stretched the thread (some damage, yes) some, but unless you saw shavings pushing out, it should be fine until the next time you need to remove the nut. then, I would replace it with a new one, and loctite/torque as normal.

if you're concerned, just order a new nut, warm up the loctite with a torche, and replace it. no big deal.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:12 PM   #20008
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You may want to replace the fuel line too while you are at it. If an offending particle came from there, it would be likely to continue to happen. At a minimum it's cheap and easy preventative maintenance. I didn't see this mentioned, but apologies in advance if this is redundant from another post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post
Good morning, Gents -

I am looking for some guidance on a carb clean/rebuild.

2002 DRZ 400S - 7,300mi. 3x3 mod and JD Jet kit.

Bike sat for over a month without stabilizer. I replaced the spark plug, added Liquid Performance stabilizer and 2 gal of fresh gas. It will start cold for a few minutes, but won't idle. After a few minutes after starting with constant throttle, it dies and won't restart. I removed float bowl and cleaned jets with carb cleaner. This didn't change anything.

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.

Question: Is this overkill or am I heading down the right path?

I would really like to take care of this on my own, as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.

Thanks


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Old 08-13-2013, 10:35 PM   #20009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
I carry two 2 oz bottles of Stan's No Tube sealant. I choose it because it came in small bottles that easily fit in my front fender bag. But I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment on how well it will work. I also wonder about shelf life.

Slime makes a nice sized bottle for tubes, but their tubeless variety only comes in very large containers.

There are other brands as well. Some people even mix up their own.

I just did a quick search and found Quadboss Tire Sealant that is advertised for dirt bikes and ATVs. Might be worth a try.
cool, thanks for the info. i have a list of stuff i want to do this winter. new chain and sprockets, new valve seals, new timing chain, Tubliss -front and rear, order some new spokes, and the list goes no.$$$$$
ride safe and have fun.
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:06 AM   #20010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyspanker View Post
Good morning, Gents -

I am looking for some guidance on a carb clean/rebuild.

2002 DRZ 400S - 7,300mi. 3x3 mod and JD Jet kit.

Bike sat for over a month without stabilizer. I replaced the spark plug, added Liquid Performance stabilizer and 2 gal of fresh gas. It will start cold for a few minutes, but won't idle. After a few minutes after starting with constant throttle, it dies and won't restart. I removed float bowl and cleaned jets with carb cleaner. This didn't change anything.

The air filter is pretty old and dirty, so I plan to replace immediately.

I'm not totally sure what to do next. I was thinking about buying all new jets and cleaning everything in the carb.

Question: Is this overkill or am I heading down the right path?

I would really like to take care of this on my own, as the local shop recommends that I pay them $500+ to replace all of the guts in the carb.

Thanks


Also posted in Thumper Talk


It is your low speed jet. Carb cleaner will not take out the yellow-green gunk that ethanol in the gas causes..You will have to either replace the jet or take it out and run a piece of wire through it. Soak it in vinegar also. I had to do this several times after leaving my DRZ sitting up. I finally pinched off the vacuum hose to the petcock and ran the bowl dry before I set the bike up for any length of time now..My bowl drain screw broke or I would just drain the bowl..
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